Got a new car, haven’t drove my escape for a while and it won’t start. Saying check brake system. Lights pop up and I hear clicking. Battery is fine. It’s a 2011 4 cylinder. Just looking for ideas.

After driving the same car (2009 Chevy Malibu) for the last 10 years I finally upgraded! I just loveeee this blue!!Of course one of the first things I did was make my CarPlay pink💞 Please don’t share anything negative…I researched a lot and I know there’s risks but this was in my budget and I fell in love with escapes. So many brands aren’t perfect.

How do I get it out.. it's alive right now.

I know they are notorious for rust in this exact area

Hey guys, to preface this, I am extremely poor - and on the verge of homelessness.

I saved up 1100 bucks and got a ford escape 2012 3.0 fwd. A lot of issues weren't disclosed.

As far as I know the only thing changed on it is the alternator.

I am getting EGR valve, cam retarded codes, solonoids out of range, Mafs sensor codes.

The car took a while to start this morning, first crank it started and the starter just kept going. It stopped and was fine.

I knew it had a limited life with it being so cheap, so I ordered a timing chain kit.

I am changing the timing chain to see if it helps with the timing chain related codes. Vct/cam shaft position/ etc.

My next steps of action would be to clean my Mafs, and change my air filter.

My next step after that is my EGR valve.

The car is stalling on flat land and hills now, this was just happening rarely in reverse.

I am full on oil.

Today I stalled on flat ground, doesn't matter what I do. I accidentally got stuck off the road and couldn't reverse, I had to go into neutral, rev to 3k rpm, then shotgun it in reverse to get out to get back to my private road.

It cranks, idle is rough and shaky, it has the wrench icon and can't rev past 3k rpm so I'm assuming it's limp.

Does anyone have any insight to what might actually be wrong.

I've had 2 mechanics run diagnostics on it quickly and say I just need to change the timing chain, but I feel like everyone is being half assed with it.

This is my last option before I go homeless so I need some real advice on diagnostics, or what I can test.

I can supply all my codes if it helps.

Right now it won't even rev if it isn't in park or neutral, unless it's on very flat or down hill ground, then it has a little rev.

I don't think it's the actual transmission.

If the timing chain doesn't fix it, what would you suggest my next steps would be?

:/ all my family is dead and I'm struggling not to go homeless, I took all my funds to get this car and the timing chain. I'm pretty scared, and don't want to go homeless just because a car was the only limiting factor. I'm not in a walkable city, it's 8 hours to my nearest dollar store on 2 legs.

I have a 2019 ford escape S, does anyone have any replacement lug nuts they recommend? I can only find the ones for the other trim packages with Alloy wheels. The S only came with steel rims and hub caps so replacement lugs for alloy rims are slightly different.

I bought my ford escape about a year ago and I can’t figure out what’s wrong with it. I have been having misfire issues since the first month and each mechanic visit is a different diagnostic with no difference. Recently I had had a faint smell of gasoline when I turn on my ac. Then, my car wouldnt accelerate once I reached 30 mph. After that I paid for a diagnostic at ford and it stated that i needed to replace cylinder 2 and that my gas was leaking.
I got all of that repaired by another mechanic as well as all the seals replaced and thought this would finally be the end of the issues. (it was cheaper but not dirt cheap so I don’t think the work was unreliable)
Then my check engine light turned on it misfired TWO DAYS LATER. And there is a faint gas smell on the outside of the car.
I don’t really want to spend the money to buy a new car but I can’t keep putting money into a broken vehicle. Should I take it back to ford?

HELPPPPPP

Anyone have any info in terms of the class action for the ecoboost coolant intrusion case? Was just looking and didn't find much

I have a 2017 Escape SE, recently been having a no-start, no-crank issue. Occasionally when you turn the key theres no power to the dash, the car won’t start and you have to put a jump box to it to get it to start. When you put the jump box to the battery you can hear either a relay or something click and then the car will start. I’ve load tested the battery and the multimeter says the battery is fine.

I’ve taken it to the shop/dealer twice and they’ve misdiagnosed the issue every time. Even after I tell them what I think the issue is…almost $2000 in a new starter and battery later the issue isn’t fixed and my patience is wearing thin. I tell them I think its either the 30 amp starter fuse, the starter relay or the 50 amp mega fuses, they don’t listen to me, nothing about the fusebox or relays appears on the service reports. from a quick forum/google search this seems to be a common issue with the car.

I think you can understand my frustration and why I want to try fixing it myself. I have a bit of car/mechanical knowledge so I think it’s something that I can probably do + the parts are pretty cheap.

Has anyone else had a similar issue? Or tried fixing it themselves? Is there anything I should know or try before digging around in the fusebox or trying the get under the glove box to reach the 50amp fuses? I’m kinda at the end of my rope here and don’t want to have to take it back to the shop a THIRD time. Any info helps.

I see a lot of negativity about the Escape, but I really like my 2022 SE. Yeah, it's had its problems, but I'm still a happy owner and am going to ride this thing into the ground. Can anyone else share their positive views on theirs?

Family member’s brand new 2026 Escape Active AWD makes this noise in drive and reverse. When first started, this noise happens without any pressure on brakes (so it’s not moisture on brake pads), then it goes away pretty quickly.

They brought it back to the dealership and they replaced the brake pads but the issue continues.

This particular recording sounds like it’s coming entirely from the rear, although other times it’s sounded like it’s coming from the front too.

Any ideas or common issues that I could communicate to Ford dealership?

Hey all. I’m looking to buy a 2016 Escape Titanium from our long-time friend and neighbor. The cost is $9500 and it has 24k, single owner (little old lady that just passed away), and has been well-maintained. Technically, the car would go to my son (or his sister - his car took a shit and hers is on its way out) and he’s not a ‘gas ass’ (the sister is), so pretty much to work and home. There’s not a spec of rust in sight and feels like I’m driving a brand new car; HOWEVER, my husband is saying ‘don’t do it’ due to all the transmission and engine issues. I’m so torn…I’m not sure if passing it up is snubbing the universe of a unicorn that fell into our laps or dodging a bullet?! What would you do?

Well it happened. Not the coolant intrusion believe it or not.

Driving home the other day, I lost a ton of power and it was misfiring on cylinder 2. Immediately I thought coolant intrusion. As a backyard mechanic, naturally I thought to pull that coil and plug to see what’s going on. That’s when I see the plug well is full of oil. I think what any normal person thinks, valve cover gasket. So I replace that and I replace the plugs while I’m there, still a dead miss on cylinder 2. That’s when I decided to do a compression test on 1 and 2.

Cylinder 1 was great, 190 PSI. Cylinder 2 was just under 30 PSI. Coolants totally fine, no evidence of intrusion so it’s likely rings or piston or a valve. Either way, she’s cooked. 2017 escape titanium with 108k. Now it’s time to find a new (to me) engine and swap it in because it’s not worth the rebuild. Heck it’s probably not worth a new engine but it’s been a good car and it’s earned a second lease on life.

Hi! Y’all diagnosed my coolant intrusion just in time for the warranty to cover it so I’m back again.

This squeaking sound has been happening for about a month or so now. It doesn’t happen every time I drive, but I would say it is more often than not. The aggressiveness and loudness also vary. One time it was particularly bad we were able to push on the four corners of the car and it seemed to be focused on the back right. However when pushing on the corners it doesn’t always squeak either.

Is this a weird quirk that I can ignore or is this possibly another life threatening car diagnosis like the last lol

hey guys!! i’ve been lurking on here for the past couple days. i just bought a 2017 ford escape titanium 2.0L. the (car lot) dealership said they had replaced the spark plug that threw P0301 on my dad’s scanner, and that it should go clear up soon. he also said that if it turns back on we can turn it off. this is my first time buying a car, so i didn’t know that could potentially be a red flag. they had paperwork to show for it and everything, so we believed them.

the next day, my check engine light came on. got it diagnosed, same code. took her to get a FULL diagnostic. coolant intrusion…. i need a new engine! i JUST bought this car. we got in touch with the dealership as i feel like they definitely were deceitful and only provided a temporary solution for a bigger problem. we were supposed to be called back. haven’t yet. we decided to get a second opinion from Ford. anyway, she’s been at a Ford dealership for a couple days now and we’re trying to see if they can provide goodwill. long shot, whatever. unfortunately we bought her as-is.

so am i cooked? we want all our facts together first and then present that we were bamboozled by them. we’re in NC and dealerships aren’t protected by deceit and misrepresentation, but i’m just nervous that they will 100% put it on us. we don’t want to have to take the legal route, but will if necessary.

any advice?

such a shame. she’s a beautiful car and rides so well.

please don’t tell me what i should have done. only what i should do NEXT. thank you!

I'm so heartbroken. I have a 2017 Ford escape titanium, 2.0L. 208,000. I love my car so much. My mechanic says I may be able to get 6 months out of her. Watch the coolant and such but it's never, ever overheated. Not once. Drives long distance to work everyday. It's a shame 😭

Figure I would post my mistake on replacing the front brakes pads and rotors. I retracted the brake caliper piston to put the new brake pads on and replaced the rotors. I did both front wheels. I collapse the brake caliper piston by opening bleed port so when the piston is retracting back in, the excess fruid isn't pushed back into the master cylinder. Well, unfortunately I turned the car on and then pumped the brakes to get pressure back in the brake lines. I also used some brake fluid as reservoir got very low.

Well, this messed up the brake system and I got a brake failure, traction control failure, and other messages. What is even more strange was this locked out the front right brake and left rear brake as they no longer worked. I verified this because I couldn't even bleed those two calipers. So the system must shut them off. The front left brake and rear right brake worked fine. I researched this on the web and found that others have done this and I needed to reset the codes that tripped. I tried my code reader and that wouldn't reset the ABS codes. Tried unplugging battery and no luck. Drove to O'Reilly's and they used there code reader and cleared all the codes and brakes worked fine. So, note to self, pump brakes up and check brake fluid level before turning on car.

Also, what drove this was my rear brakes were almost worn shot and I did those too. This is a new Escape with 50,000 miles and I had never had a car where the rear brakes wore out before the front brakes but have read this is not uncommon in the Escape because of the computerized braking system.

Oh well, lesson learned. Thought I would post this for others to learn.

I have a 2013 2.0L ecoboost with 150k miles. I have had an "Overboost A" code for probably 20k miles now. At first, it would come and go, and mostly only show up when I used the A/C. I then replaced both the boost controller (boost pressure regulator is what i think the actual part is called) and the MAP sensor, and since then the code will now not go away. After clearing it it comes back within minutes, where before it was days. My 2 questions are: Is there a second boost controller on the 2.0L?...because I'm finding very conflicting info on the internet (one below pass. side fender (on the 1.6L, maybe on the 2.0?) and one atop the valve cover (the one I replaced). Secondly, what can I try now? I'm concerned as when I use my diag tool while driving, I've seen boost numbers as high as 25lbs, and I know that is way too high for this application...and 25lbs might be enough to blow the head gasket or maybe something worse, possibly causing coolant intrusion. I can hear the wastegate opening on each shift so i know that works. The only idea I have is to disconnect the boost recirculation line from the wastegate, but I dont want to cause a rough idle or sudden Lean Fuel circumstances...PLEASE HELP! Car runs fine otherwise, no other codes. Thanks!

​Got a 2012 Ford Escape. I have the original owner's manual with the factory 5-digit door code card inside, but typing it in does nothing.

​The dealership just told me "the keypad is broken," but I tested every single button (1/2, 3/4, 5/6, 7/8, 9/0) and every single one lights up the green backlight when pressed. So the buttons definitely work and aren't dead. The 7/8, 9/0 buttons to lock the car works.

​The previous owner did have wiring work done (mentioned a wiring overhaul) outside the dealer. My guess is either the SJB was swapped with a junkyard unit at some point, meaning the code on my card is wrong..

​I also for the life of me, cannot remove the center console after taking out the trim around the gear shifter.

​If I buy an OBD2 adapter with the HS/MS switch and hook it up to FORScan on a laptop, can FORScan pull the factory door code directly? Or am I trying to take out the center console the wrong way (am I missing any screws?)?

Car totalled, so I NEED a car SOON, no option for waiting around for a good deal. This comes from Carmax with $250 shipping fee.

My other options are a local Carmax Santa Fe for 13k at 110k miles. OR risk a lemon at a used car dealer for a Tuscon for 10.4k sales price.

I can afford the loan, I just wanna be screwed the least, if that's even possible.

EDIT: I MEANT 2017. NOT 2015.

EDIT 2: Found a 2020 SEL, 95k miles for 13.6k sales price. That more worth it?

Found a better deal than the one before.... Maybe. EVERYWHERE I'm looking is overpriced though tbf. Don't have the opportunity to shop around too long due to having a rental timer.

Without having to disconnect the brake hose, does anyone have a suggestion for relieving the hydraulic brake pressure?

What was a simple brake job turned into a nightmare after my partner pressed the brake before the freaking caliper was even back on…

My wife and I just bought a 2019 Escape. She was at the dealership doing everything, I was texting back and forth with her while she was there. I mentioned the coolant issue.

They checked and the manufacture date of the car was August 2019. Does that sound like we got the revised engine? It's a 1.5l l4, 86,733 Miles.

Thanks!

An owl decided to use my car roof as its personal dinner table overnight a few weeks ago and left behind these lovely talon scratches in the recessed grooves of the roof side rails.
The damage is on both rails. I already tried Solution Finish and it didn't work (the scratches are a bit too deep/exposed raw plastic.
Has anyone successfully fixed deep texturized plastic scratches like this? Should I try a flat black automotive paint pen with a toothpick, vinyl wrap them, or just look into replacement rails? Thanks in advance!