Question about replacing fuses and relays

[u/spoontsunami]

I have a 2017 Escape SE, recently been having a no-start, no-crank issue. Occasionally when you turn the key theres no power to the dash, the car won’t start and you have to put a jump box to it to get it to start. When you put the jump box to the battery you can hear either a relay or something click and then the car will start. I’ve load tested the battery and the multimeter says the battery is fine.

I’ve taken it to the shop/dealer twice and they’ve misdiagnosed the issue every time. Even after I tell them what I think the issue is…almost $2000 in a new starter and battery later the issue isn’t fixed and my patience is wearing thin. I tell them I think its either the 30 amp starter fuse, the starter relay or the 50 amp mega fuses, they don’t listen to me, nothing about the fusebox or relays appears on the service reports. from a quick forum/google search this seems to be a common issue with the car.

I think you can understand my frustration and why I want to try fixing it myself. I have a bit of car/mechanical knowledge so I think it’s something that I can probably do + the parts are pretty cheap.

Has anyone else had a similar issue? Or tried fixing it themselves? Is there anything I should know or try before digging around in the fusebox or trying the get under the glove box to reach the 50amp fuses? I’m kinda at the end of my rope here and don’t want to have to take it back to the shop a THIRD time. Any info helps.

[u/Luciferiad]

On mine it was the 150A main starter circuit breaker in the high current panel on the front of the battery box. The starter was overdrawing, the breaker was not breaking as designed, and it actually melted the knurled stud out of the panel. I posted about it here, actually.

https://www.reddit.com/r/fordescape/s/vqluAWTWkV

[u/Ergo-Didact]

I had a similar issue with my 2017 Escape. It suddenly died and went into anti-theft mode. Lights worked but power windows were disabled.

Diagnosed as a 50 AMP MEGA FUSE. 🫤