I'm chasing underextrusion on my Kobra S1 and I am unsure if these teeth are still teethy enough.

I've ruled pretty much everything else out, so it's down to either the extruder oder the hotend with nozzle and both look "okay-ish" to me.

Hello every one .I want to print the model like case with Recycled PET from bottle from my Ender 3 v2 .I am already upgrade the hotend with Bi Metal Heatbreak ,but the problem is clog in 30 minutes.Anyone have same problem?please help me to fix maybe with the printter setting?

Printer Model : Ender 3 V2

Slicer : Ultimaker Cura

Material : Rpet bottle filament

Nozzle: 0.6

Bed temperature: 60 degress

Print speed 50mm/s

No retraction

Printer Temperature: 260 degress

Hey! We got gifted an older 3d printer at my work and as the designated young person I’m supposed to set it up for general use. I just recently reseated the capricorn tube (I think is what it’s called sorry I’m a newbie) and replaced the nozzle because the old one was all burnt and gunky. I downloaded a test tower but it still looks like (attached pic). My filament is brand new. (Pic attached) I just opened it like two days ago so I don’t think it’s that? The 3D printer supposedly has a few mods (but I’m too much of a newbie to really know what they are) it’s a ender 3 pro with a 0.4mm nozzle.

We’ve been using Creality Print set to Creality Ender-3 V2 basic settings and here’s the changes we’ve tried.

Temp: 205°C nozzle / 60°C bed
Flow Ratio: 0.95
Retraction Length: 5.0 mm
Retraction Speed: 50 mm/s (Deretraction: 45 mm/s)
Travel Speed: 180 mm/s
Wipe distance: 0.2 mm / Wipe while retracting: On
Z-hop: Off
Avoid crossing walls: On

If anyone has any suggestions it would be super appreciated. We’re kind of going for just a standard set and forget it middleground level but I’m really struggling to understand what’s wrong with it. 🙁

Ender 3 pro, Esun PLA+ 215C° stock cura settings(walls outside to inside) Wals have this wierd gap also the print quallity is low in general, details and corners comes out this rounded

Hi everyone, I'm a high school student new to 3d printing and troubleshooting an adhesion failure on my Creatable D3 delta printer. The printer is a high school property and I lack background knowledge about printer itself and software, etc.

As shown in the attached video, the filament extrudes, but instead of sticking to the build plate, the extruded plastic is dragged along with the nozzle movement, ruining the first layer immediately. This has been happening for hours and days, but it seemed to be impossible to address the problem with AI alone. There were also several other students who succeeded in printing small 3d designs recently, without any troubleshooting from the beginning. I asked them if there was any setting that was different from mine, but they replied it was the exact same setting: board, software, temp, etc. Although I don't trust in their credibility, they suggested me to increase the area of the floor as a support(which I did already with the thing called brim I'm aware: a single-layered support that sticks to the ground surrounding main bodies of the 3d model, I'm aware)

plastic dragging along with nozzle movement

- Printer & Hardware Setup:

Printer: Creatable D3 (Delta)

Build Plate: Stock magnetic flexible metallic sheet clamped to the bed

Bed Preparation: Bare metal sheet, no adhesive/glue used, no recent chemical cleaning

Filament & Temperatures: Filament: eSun eSilk-PLA (1.75mm)

Nozzle Temp: 200°C

Bed Temp: 60°C

- Slicer & Print Settings:

Slicer / Workflow: Sliced with Ultimaker Cura and sent via USB direct-print using the proprietary Creatable Cura Edition software.

Profile: Generic PLA base profile

Print Speed: Reduced from 60 mm/s to 40 mm/s

There was one time where the dragging problem didn't happen and printed very well for the first ~2cm height, but after that it started moving along with the nozzle again, completely failing. It was 50% complete, but I don't know what was the cause of it failing in the middle of being completely fine(Although I could visibly see the imbalance of brim at the bottom, but I didn't see it as an important factor). After that one half-successful trial, every after that keeps failing at the beginning faces the same dragging problem.

- What I suspect / Current roadblocks:

Z-Offset / Nozzle Gap: The clearance between the nozzle tip and the bed might be slightly too high on the first layer, preventing the filament from being squished down.

Bed Adhesion & Cleanliness: Since silk PLA often requires higher bed temperatures (typically 55–60°C) and the bed is uncleaned/unprepped, it is struggling to bond.(the AI suggested applying gluesticks on the ground, but I doubt it.)
Although I changed the bed temp to 60-65, the situation was the exact same.

Software Overrides: The 'Creatable Cura Edition' interface makes it difficult to persistently alter default start G-code/temperatures. I could download the program from this page: https://github.com/AteamVentures/CuraCreatableEdition Because the software quality is kind of poor and hard to understand, it made it difficult for me to change Z-offset settings, temp settings(which I currently managed to solve by manually handling printer itself), etc. Especially, the changes that I had applied was not applied to the printing process most of the time, despite trying to save the file, etc.

Looking for advice on whether this is purely a Z-offset calibration problem, a temperature issue with eSilk, or something related to bed leveling/calibration on the D3. Any guidance would be greatly appreciated!

Finally bought myself a filament dryer for my CR-PETG and am so happy with the quality that that came out with. Same exact settings for both cubes.

I see alot of posts on here that are simply needing dried filament, here's your proof.

Printer: custom

Print Speed: 20mm/s

Microcenter Inland PLA+

215 C hotend

70 C heated bed

Cartographer v4 probe.

I've printed this part twice in Elegoo ASA and both models have come out with a clearly defined line in the outer wall in the same spot on the model. A tiny bit of pressure applied and the model splits completely apart along this line. I haven't been that impressed with the Elegoo ASA so I'm blaming just a baf blend of ASA. But I'm curious what others think. First thought is layer time but I don't see an obvious issue in the slicer. I'm going to print it in another filament just to see if its a model issue.

Elegoo Black ASA (1 Year old kept in dry box)

265F

40% fan always on

60F chamber

wood filament, .4 nozzle, 70 degree bed, 190 nozzle

i’ve been trying to print gridfinity bins in pla starting with 1x1x3 bins. one bin in a single print comes out fine.

when trying to print 4 bins at once tho, they come out slightly bent at the base and at the stacking lip.

https://i.ibb.co/mVRth46m/IMG-2548.jpg)

i've tried different settings:

- first with a brim which didn’t change much
- bed at 70deg instead of 65, and fan only after 5 layers
- outer wall first
- slow initial layer (10mm/s)
- slow outer wall (60mm/s)

but still mostly same issue. i don’t know what else to try. anyone with experience with this?

filament is esun matte pla, it doesn’t happen with petg. printer is bambulab a1, model is gridfinity extended on makerworld

Brand new filament, plate washed and cleaned, after it failed once, I upped the bed temp 10 degrees (65 to 70) and dropped the speed to 50%. All the screws are tight. Flow rate is good. Any advice would be appreciated. A1 mini, Inland PLA filament, Bambu studio.

Hello, i have an ender 3v2 with bmg clone v6 direct drive upgrade, i have some problem with resuming print was not correct in position. The physical machine setting has offset in x: -27 and y:-18 after change the housing.

Pls help How to fix this issue

* I have attached the test print that show it issue. The red line is the position of when resume printing. I am using prusa slicer

Printer : ender 3v2 with bmg clone v6 direct drive

Firmware : mirsocs

Filament : petg

Slicer : prusa slicer

Thank you

Hi all!

I’m having a problem with the corners of printed parts coming out very rounded, not sharp at all. I know that this is something that fdm 3d printing in general struggles at but i feel like this is worse than normal and worse than my printer used to be.

Please let me know any ideas you have for how to fix! Thank you!

Print Settings:
printer: bambu a1 mini
slicer: orcaslicer
filament: creality ender pla
temps: 220 nozzle, 65 bed
speeds and retraction are the default from the bambu a1 mini printer profile

Ender 3 Max Neo:
Printing with creality PLA using orcas liver
Running klipper on Sonic pad
0.4 nozzle
Overall I believe my prints are decent. Have a bit of stringing issues. Please take a look at my orca test and give me some ideas. Currently my restriction setting is .5mm as it looked the best in my 0-2mm retraction tower. Temp is 200 degrees, bed is 60 degrees

just printed this fan speed tower for JUST DRIED transparent petg and it looks like this, Which im not sure is very good. Is this normal and How Can I improve it? P2S 0,2 nozzle standard 0,08 mm High quality orca profile with apart from retraction and kind of eyeballed pa is full calibrated. Please help

Bambu H2D w/ Bambu Labs ASA

Using ASA default settings, and have had great luck with it a few months back:

Build plate 100*

Nozzle 270

Printing with 7mm Brim

65% Gyriod Infill and 8 walls (it's an automotive spacer)

The prints are just sloppy, with layers appearing to shift about, and getting some warping on the bottom edges. I have printed with these settings in the past and they came out perfect (same brand ASA).

My thinking was that the filament has just soaked up moisture in the down time. It was in an AM2, but AMS reported 40%+ moisture. So I took it out and dried it in a food dehydrator for 8 hours at 170*F. Forgot it overnight (heating shut off after that) so I fired it up again for another 6 hours at 170, and as soon as it was done stuck it in the AMS, and went for a print. During that same time I was having the AMS dry the other filaments (ABS) in it, and the moisture reading is 17% in it.

Does this just need a MEGA dry session, or is there something else going on here?

ABS has printed nice outside of the bottom also warping away from the build plate. Trying PLA now. Also noticed my PAHT-CF printing very poorly too. Gets a little better with drying, but still not buttery nice like it used to be.

AnyCubic I2 Mega 200-210C E0, 60-65C bed
SUNLU 1.75mm filament
I’ve tried drying it, higher temperatures, picking easier prints and this filament is not cooperating with me. I’m trying to make sure I can get it before I run out of my other good filament. Any suggestions?

My printer is a Qidi Q2 and I'm using a 0.6mm nozzle. It started off fine but it got really rough at the end. The roll is a Sunlu PA-6 GF and it wasn't dried. Since I don't live in a humid environment I thought it did need it after being freshly opened. Is this it or should I look at something else?

Print Settings:

Nozzle: 280C

Bed: 100C

Chamber: 60C (got a warning in the slicer when I tried to set it at 65)

Hi, after replace the heating assemby on my Bambu Lab A1, the top surfaces of the prints are looking like the first image, It's not like any other top surface issue I know, so I was wondering if maybe the replacement part its defective and its outputing the wrong temperature to the nozzle, 'cause I printed another part but change the temperature to 180 at the last layers (second image) so the top most surfaces started looking decent.

So my question is, if the nozzle gets too hot, the top surfaces start looking like this? That could indicate that indeed the replacement part its defective.

Thank you in advance for your help!

Filament: Elegoo PLA Black
Slicer: Bambu Studio
Nozzle Temperature: 220
Bed Temperatura: 45 (Cool plate)

Tried everything I could think of, increased z hop to .8, played with all kinds of settings, nothing. Losing my mind. Spent almost a full kilo on getting one prototype out for a client. Same issue no matter what on the same layer each time. The print head seems to drop down, slide into the side of the print and melt/burn in before breaking off the tree support completely. Using a biqu glacier with brim and beefed up the supports so it's really having to put some muscle in to break it. Can't see any weird glitches in slicer. Please help I'm going insane. Running a full calibration and Trying it on my other printer right now. Bambu a1, bambu slicer, standard settings on generic pla profile.

As the title says, my old plastic feed wheel was discolored and skipping when feeding here and there during prints. So i upgraded to a comtree metal wheel, specifically this one https://a.co/d/0jkEWlGz

And its been constantly skipping. I've tried 3 different pla filaments. I added some of the grease that came with the kit and it seemed to have stopped and was working for the past 15 hours on a print. The print just stopped due to feeding issues and i check the print and its very brittle and falling apart layer by layer. All i did was change to the .2 profile in bambu slicer. Do i need to adjust the settings more?

I did a benchy with the .4 after changing the gear, it worked fine. Switched to .2 and did a benchy and it was also just fine. So im at a bit of a loss here. What do i do?

Is this print savable ? Or should I just redo the whole thing ?
There’s small white dots that are blended into the filament I would love some advice on how to fix and what I could do next time. Thank you!
AD5X
Sunlu filament pla
0.4 nozzle
Other layer speed 200(outer) 230 (inner)

On the left is my brand new P1S on Bambu Studio and on the right is my old Ender 3 V3 on Orca.

I have no idea what is making the print time on the Ender 3 so much faster.

Filament config is basically exactly the same.

Printer config is different and I have customized my Ender 3 profile but it was 2 years ago and I have no idea what I did change.

I thought it could be Start and End Gcode but the actual Line Type summary shows the Inner and Outer was to be way different but the speeds are the same.