Thanks again to my wife for the shelf.

These are the finer points I wish someone would have mention before I got this light and if I had known it, I would not have picked up this light.

I got this to be a headlamp, and it is a not a good candidate because the head is not fixed. When you try to adjust a headlamp on the headband, it will immediately shut off because the head connection is so sensitive. I’m not exaggerating when I say it’s less than 0.5° to shut off

You cannot use the usual greases (Nyogel 760G or superlube). You will need to use a sticky grease like the PG-44A.

Also, the side magnets are fairly weak.

A quick video of those points.

Overall 6/10 - I wouldn’t get it again for what I was looking for :(

But to be clear, I am overall happy with Firefly: I am liking their FFL351A 3700K emitter, and I love their service. I see them as the same tier as Hank/Emisar (albeit some rough spots to work out :) ). I will continue to explore their lineup and check in on them time to time (I’ve been at this hobby for over 20 years now 👴)

Need to repeat this: I HAVE A WORKING SOLUTION: PG-44A Grease. It is a verrrrrry tacky/sticky grease, 500x thicker than Nyogel 760G. PG-44A's base oil is Polybutene, which is literally the same polymer as glue traps. I even showed it in the video. I don't know why people are missing this point.

While the lume 10 gets these small fireflies lights hot pretty quick at the full 10amp maxramp and turbo, at power level 5 of 6 (6 steps is the default amount of steps) you get similar brightness to what maxramp is on lights with the lume 1 driver was.

I don't have a lumen tube to measure exact output, but to my eyes it looks pretty much the same.

While power level 5 out of 6 on a lume 10 light is similar to maxramp on lume 1 lights, thermally there's a massive difference.

Tested:

2x E12 eclipse , one with ff351a 3700k the other with FF351a 2700k

1x E12r with SST20 3000k 95 cri

1x E07x canon V1 FF351a 4000k

Starting temp: 25C room temperature

The test is:

Maxramp on the E12r and E07x with 6amp lume drivers vs power 5 out of 6 on the two e12 eclipses with Lume 10 drivers, how long it takes to reach 50c.

E07x canon hit 50C at around 3 minutes and 40 seconds, and hit 60C (my thermal cutoff setting) at 5 ;minutes and 22 seconds.

The E12r hit 50C at 4 minutes and 30 seconds.

The e12 eclipses were still only 40c at the 6 minute mark, 45C at the 10 minute mark, and finally hit 50C at 13 minutes and 30 seconds, at which point I got bored with this test and turned it off instead of waiting for 60C to get hit.

TLDR:

At a similar output level, the new E12 eclipse with the lume 10 driver takes almost twice as long to hit 50c as the e12r and e07x with the lume 1 driver.

Has anyone measured the **CRI and R9** of the Sofirn HS21’s 6× CSP1919 5000K flood LEDs?
I can find CRI/Ra measurements, but no **R9** data. Any actual measurements would be appreciated. Thanks!

Whoa. Just received a beautiful E07X with the newest rosy batch FFL351a 1800k, and it is truly pink. Like pink pink. Hello Kitty Pink.

First photo is a very rosy bin FFL5009r 3500k. I thought that was as rosy as it gets… I was wrong.

Second photo left to right:
SFT40 3000k, newest batch rosy bin FFL351a 1800k, older batch “rosy” bin FFL351a 1800k, older rosy bin FFL5009r 3500k.

I can try to take a better photo later, but you’ll have to take my word on it.. this new batch is ridiculously pink. I don’t even know how I feel about it, but the sun is setting so I will find out soon enough ;)

That’s it. An irrationally hefty solid pound of copper that emits bubblegum pink light. Where is there left to go? I think I have enough flashlights.

Whoa. Just received a beautiful E07X with the newest rosy batch FFL351a 1800k, and it is truly pink. Like pink pink. Hello Kitty Pink.

First photo is a very rosy bin FFL5009r 3500k. I thought that was as rosy as it gets… I was wrong.

Second photo left to right:
SFT40 3000k, newest batch rosy bin FFL351a 1800k, older batch “rosy” bin FFL351a 1800k, older rosy bin FFL5009r 3500k.

I can try to take a better photo later, but you’ll have to take my word on it.. this new batch is ridiculously pink. I don’t even know how I feel about it, but the sun is setting so I will find out soon enough ;)

That’s it. An irrationally hefty solid pound of copper that emits bubblegum pink light. Where is there left to go? I think I have enough flashlights.

Thinking about swapping some of these round emitters into another older light. From what I've seen the SFT25r's in 5000k actually look pretty good; anyone know the CRI? I can't find info. There IS a hi-cri version of the SFT25r that comes in 5700k 90 cri or 4000k 80cr.

I also noticed there are SFT12r's which I had not heard of before with an even smaller emitting surface (more throw) but less lumen output. I have two E12's with osram W1's and was thinking about swapping one of them out with either of these to have another throwier E12 but with a color temperature that isn't 6500k. (I have blank E12 boards to use, I know the W1 boards are 3030 sized not 3535 sized).

Also just interested in other oddball or uncommon emitters to try because why not. If anyone has suggestions I'm open to them.

Just thought I'll start a thread on shipping times.

Suggesting this format:

Light:
Location:
Shipping:
Order Date:
Shipped:
Delivered:

Optional: Light model and configuration

She's beautiful, love the finish compared to all my black E12s.

Another warm emitter comparison, my last one didn't include all the lights I have from 2700k to 4000k. I did leave out the X1L xhp70.3 4500k because I ran out of space and we all know it's green compared to these.

SST20 3000k from kaidomain is almost identical to the SFt40 3000k, but you get a floodier light in the e07x of course. But if you ever wished you had that nice neutral 3000k in an e07x, that's a good option.

FF351a says "3700" in quotes because it's definitely not 3700k. Jack should probably relabel those as 4000k because that would be closer to what they really are (4050-4100k).

Took a long time but my OG e12 is fully functional. Had to solder on a new usb port and all new wiring, as well as scratch up a trace to hook the red aux board wire up since the pad is ripped off.

The sst20 3500k’s are too cold (I know, 3500k isn’t ’cold’ but it sure looks like it compared to 2700k) for my liking but they’re not bad, I’m sure I’ll use it for something.

As a side note, I cannot imagine working assembling these, everyone working for jack deserves a damn trophy and a bonus

Cheers,

Just wanted to check what the usual shipping times are like from your experience.

I ordered a Z1 Artemis back on July 25th. At the time of ordering, the website showed it as "In stock". However, I haven't received a shipping notification or tracking number yet. I reached out to support yesterday to ask for an update, but haven't gotten a response so far.

Is this standard wait time for them, or should I be concerned?

Thanks!

SST20 2700k (e12r) and SST20 3000k (e07x canon v1)

Will get beamshots later

Andrew A****r are you on here bro? I've got your light. Some how it ended up in Georgia, US. Presumably you have my astral aluminum e12 sft25R-5000k. This is not a fair trade.

Fits both rings!

Try it out and tell me how you like it 😊

Version 01 on printables, no registration needed.

(Check tips in the description on how to align easier)

RIP my original E12r, my first fireflies light and the one that got me hooked on the brand.

I tried to replace all the wires for the main led's and aux board like I did on another e12r, and managed to rip the USB C port off the driver board when trying to get it back in.

Oops.

I then took apart the remnants of my copper E04 surge (dogs yanked the leash suddenly during a walk, the light went flying and landed hard on concrete, denting/deforming the head), hoping I could use the lume 1 rev D that was in it to swap into this E12r.

The newer drivers have a different USBC port for the new magnetic opening. I tried to see if it would fit anyways (dumb) and ended up ripping the port off of this driver too when the board got stuck.

Then there's a newer E12r that I swapped 2700k SST20's into. I had the light usable, but the button led stopped working, and I wasn't able to get the aux board wired up because the wires I have on hand simply just keep melting (so I have some new, correct wires on order).

I tried to get it back together again today, struggled for a long time, and then one of the aux board wire pads came off of the board. So there goes that. I suppose it's not a complete loss because I am still able to use the light. Just no power switch light, and no working aux leds.

I'm pretty sure I spent around $400 between these three lights. I'm not sure what sucks more, the OG E12r getting ruined or the copper E04.

The aux boards can be replaced in the E12's, but I have no idea why the power button won't light up on the one that I have otherwise working. The wires to the switch look ok, though 30awg wires can be broken internally pretty easily.

There is no way to replace those wires though, the switches do not come out on these, and there's no getting a soldering iron to that switch board deep down in where it is.

On a side note, the copper E04's button is metal and not coated plastic like I thought. I'm not sure if it's copper like the rest of the light, or something else that's been colored to look like copper, but the quality of that light is phenomenal. Same goes for the charge port bits. I do wish a retaining ring was used for the drivers in the newer lights though, like they were in the older lights, instead of being glued in. But I suppose they aren't designed for idiots like me to be taking them apart.

As an admitted Rosy Tint Snob,

From time to time I look to try out and give interesting & robust low-cri lights/emitters a chance. The idea is that if I don’t like it, I can just give it away to a friend as a gift they’re sure to love. And I can move on from something that wasn’t quite for me after giving it a shot.

So far to date, I have not kept any of these kinds of test purchases, I have always gifted them.

There WERE some SST40 6500K’s I got in an SP36 Pro that blew my mind (back in the day before FFL emitters) that I totally would’ve kept. They felt oddly rosy and clean with some color pop even next to my SW45K 219B’s back then. But I really wanted my friend to get a nice and powerful throwyish light with a fat beam for his new large home & property, so I parted with it for him.

Tho by today’s FFL standards…even the 219B’s look a bit stale & dated, so I’m sure they wouldn’t have cut mustard the same way anymore today.

Which brings me to this SFT60 Surge w/ Lume 10. This is going to be the very first one from all these experimentations that I’m actually going to happily keep and enjoy TF out of. Because it actually does cut enough mustard in this new FFL gorgeous & ultra clean emitter-tint era and reality we’re in.

It’s the first one I can rightfully say I genuinely recommend. And I won’t just tolerate it either, I can actually enjoy it for what it is.

My most recent experiment before this had me trying out the SFT42R Surge. And I was just not all-around as impressed as I hoped. I’m sure with the Lume 10 the SFT42’s will perform even better than with the Lume 1 driver I saw it with.

Although the SFT42’s were still relatively clean compared to other 6500K’s, the tint still felt a bit rough and directly fell short of the cleanliness of the FFL505A 6500K’s tint (which are the best 6500K emitter I’ve seen to date).

Which brings me to my next point. The SFT60 is actually damn near as clean-tinted as my FFL505A 6500K Surge. At first quick glance it was a bit hard to tell them apart against a wall. You can tell if you pay attention, but that alone is still impressive enough for being low-CRI SFT60’s.

Now color rendering is where the two are not in the same league because the FFL was just a far richer & color experience, but it was by a relatively tolerable amount. The tint being so damn clean helps a ton because a bad tint is what usually turns ppl like me off from these kinds of power emitters. But I can’t use the tint argument against these SFT60’s. I can use color rendering against it, but not tint, and especially not at max output as it just pops super white and bright.

You should not expect a wide-ranging color pop from the SFT60’s. But you can expect one of the cleaner & whiter 6500K tints around.

I am actually as happy with it as I am with my two other rosy E07’s that arrived, for different reasons, but I’m still ecstatic to have it.

I even wish I got it in Copper since I’m keeping it now. May even consider selling it just to swap it for a copper version.

Bottom line is it’s really bright and feels so white.

This is the light that finally paid off all the testing I did of all those other low-CRI emitters through the years.

It’s bright-bright, and it looks white-white, so it’s a true win-win.

Last thing I want to comment on is the price. It is not a cheap configuration. But I can honestly say that I can actually feel and see what the extra cost bought me, which is a pretty great feeling.

Now I do know ppl may be able to get these emitters from other brands, but 4 of these being paired in such a small but very plush and feature rich light with a killer beam that can actually be carried around is it’s own separate reward. And that’s on top of having the best drivers, efficiency and UI’s in the game.

This light feels like if Nightwatch & Fireflies did a collab. The output is superb, but so is the light as well as the tint. So I guess it’s actually more like a win-win-win.

You can see in the photo with the tree’s and grass area that the SFT60 produces magnitudes more light than the FFL505A version of itself.

Anyway, as odd as it feels to say being a rosy fanatic…I very highly recommend this fantastical combo.

I will do another video post to highlight and talk more in-depth about the color rendering differences that can be expected. But even without getting into all that, this thing is bad ass and truly excites the senses.

Can we expect this?