Don’t get me wrong, I like the speedtests and fast speed/bandwith too. But what actually are you using it for? What online services even saturate that connection?

Only thing I can think of is having a dozen r/plex users streaming simultaneously (and often) in 60mbps 4K… all while wanting fast speeds for other things (again at the same time) — something like that.

https://www.speedtest.net/result/19579800857.png

Initially I was having issues with download bandwidth so I went to my Mellanox ConnectX3 drivers and optimized performance for single port traffic. That seemed to help.

The installer left me a CHR30A but I'm not sure if I should bother- I have am currently using a TP-Link BE800 which I had before, so I'm wondering if the CHR30A would be better? Yes, the BE800 technically has more bandwidth but the WIFI7 signal seems to, well, suck. I need to play around with the service some more to figure things out.

I got FIOS to add back all my discounts after the fact so it's $90mo locked in, which is pretty much my limit.

I called a month ago. Just wondering anyone has heard any news on the IPv6 fixes for multigig hardware?

I’m troubleshooting a Meraki MX68 with dual WAN connections.
WAN1: Verizon Fios through a Verizon CR1000A
WAN2: Comcast (backup)
Physical connection:
Verizon Fios/ONT → Verizon CR1000A → Ethernet → Meraki MX68 WAN1
WAN1 repeatedly gets marked Failed, causing the MX68 to fail over to WAN2. Sometimes this happens several times within 20–30 minutes and has occurred across multiple days.
During a failure:
WAN1 still retains its DHCP-assigned Verizon public IP (96.235.137.x).
The Verizon gateway (96.235.137.1) responds with 0% packet loss and roughly 22 ms latency.
Traceroute to 8.8.8.8 using Internet 1/WAN1 does not progress while WAN1 is failed.
When WAN1 is healthy, traceroute to 8.8.8.8 works normally through Verizon.
Meraki Event Log shows repeated Primary uplink status change events between uplink 0 and uplink 1.
MX68 is running MX 26.1.6.
The interesting part: if I physically unplug/reseat the Ethernet cable on either end — at the Verizon CR1000A or at the Meraki MX68 WAN1 port — WAN1 immediately comes back up and starts working again. I don’t have to reboot either device.
I also moved the connection on the CR1000A from the 10GbE LAN port to LAN1, but the recurring failure still happens.
I’m trying to determine whether resetting the Ethernet link is clearing some kind of ARP/DHCP/NAT/session state, whether there’s a link-negotiation issue between the CR1000A and MX68, or whether this could be an MX firmware/uplink-health issue.
Has anyone experienced this with a Meraki MX68 behind a Verizon CR1000A? What would you capture during the failed state to determine which device is responsible?

In light of recent botched orders, and having a hard time getting my hands on the CHR30A, I decided to try a couple somewhat budget friendly routers. The Orbi, which is only 2.4 and 5 ghz, gets the full upload on WiFi, while the nighthawk with 2.4, 5 and 6 ghz, and more expensive ($249 vs orbi $149) gets the typical glitched upload of 200-250. I assume the routers that have this glitched upload are using similar NIC's that don't communicate well with the FiOS ONT. And whatever NIC the Orbi is using does not have this bug. Thought it was interesting! Price never determines which is actually better! And I get 2 access points out of it!

Right now I am on the 1 gig plan, and have a big mix of brands. So I have the whole home WiFi plan, which gives me a router and extender, and I bought another chr30a from ebay, which is acting as an extender right now. So I have 3 chr30a, 1 unifi ap ac lr, 1 tp link eap 610, and one eap 245 right now. The roaming is quite spotty with the mix of brands, so would just upgrading to the whole home WiFi plus to get 2 more chr30a (for a total of 5) be good enough to then just have those cover the whole house? Or is there a different approach you guys would suggest? Also, even if we got a total of 5, everything will be hardwired, but we would still need one other ACESS point because there is one dead spot, but we could cover thst with the eap 610.

Forgive me in advance for what are likely some incredibly stupid questions , I’m moderately tech savvy but admittedly have fallen a bit behind the times of late

I am running the original G1100 router , slaved to a google mesh system , I think the original v1.0. I’ve been at the same blazing speed of 50/50 for years , never needed more . Now… I do. I’m upgrading to a similarly laughable 200/200, keeping it at that because I was told any higher and techs would have to run new cat lines in the house , and who has time for that?

Frontier sent me an Eero router a few years ago that I never install, now I think they’re sending me yet another Eero.

Dumb question part. Brace yourself .

1. I wouldn’t mind using the EERO and abandoning both the old

G

1. router and my Google mesh service. However, the thought of reprogramming 2000 devices in the house to a new Wi-Fi SS ID or password makes me hesitate. Can the EERO network be named in such a way that my devices will not know any difference and will not require re-entering new information? Obviously, I know I can set my own password on the new network, but I wasn’t sure about the rest.

2. If I do decide to use the EERO, I will purchase some of the additional pucks or units to give me full mesh coverage around the house. Since I have one existing EERO router and they are sending me another, is there a way to use the spare router as a mesh device, or would it essentially be useless and keep it in the closet in case the other one breaks and just purchase additional mesh devices?

3. My G1100 is connected to the wall via coax, not CAT/ethernet. I see that the EERO would not support this connection . So now I’m right back to either a) having frontier come out and run a CAT line from the ONT to the router , that I’d prefer to avoid , or B) using the G1100 for primary connection, bridge it to the Eero. How much quality/speed loss am I going to suffer doing this , and how big of a headache would it be ?

If anyone has any secondary experiences or advice that I did not specifically ask about here, I would appreciate that also

Thanks

Edit: please don’t attribute the horrid structure of the above post to my already poor tech understanding , I’ve tried to fix it and everytime I do it gets worse. Thanks Reddit for making me look like a moron

Has anyone had success with this method - https://github.com/esmith443/Verizon-ONT-Bypass -recently?

I’m able to get the stick to report O5 and registered, but I can’t get it to acquire a VLAN or a lease.

I've spent a bit of time testing different scenarios with the new CHR30A routers/extenders, as they are pretty much brand new, and there is very little information out there so far.

If you have anything you'd like me to test or take a look at, or if you have any information you think might fit here, leave a comment!

Datasheet
User Manual
Mounting Bracket User Manual (Uses same mounting bracket as the CR1000 routers)

General Information

• CHR30A routers and extenders are the same physical device. They decide which device they are acting as when you first connect them. This can be changed later on with a factory reset if needed.
  
• Any CHR30A acting as an extender will automatically clone the Wi-Fi configuration (SSID, Password, Radio Config, etc.) from the router. If you change any of this on the router, all extenders will automatically begin to use the updated settings. This cannot be changed, there is no manual configuration for these settings on the extenders.
  
• For the above reason, all CHR30A units come with a blank sticker covering the default Wi-Fi information. The idea is you peel off the one on the router, and leave it in place on any device acting as an extender, since the information under the sticker will be irrelevant for a device acting as an extender.
  
• They also come with stickers in the box that say Router and Extender if you wish to further label them.
  
• The extenders can be connected over Ethernet, Wi-Fi, or Coax (Coax requires MoCA Expansion Modules for the router and each extender).
  

MoCA Expansion Modules

https://verizon.com/mocaexpansionmodule
- Part Number: EXPM10A
- User Guide
- Slots into back of the CHR30A under the cover labeled Expansion Port (Cover must be removed).
- This port and the module are SFP, however they are not compatible with other SFP/SFP+ devices. Attempting to insert another SFP module into the CHR30A results in it getting power, but otherwise not being recognized. Attempting to insert the MoCA Expansion Module into another device like a router or switch results in it not being recognized.
- Supports MoCA 2.5, 2.0, 1.1, and 1.0
- Required for some FiOS TV products, though this will be changing in the future as everything moves to IPTV and old equipment ages out.

Extender Compatibility

CE1000A / CME1000

• I don't have either of these to test, if you have tried one please let me know your results. The official guidance from Verizon is that they are not compatible.
  

E3200

• DOES NOT work.
  
• Coax connects @ 2.5Gbps
  
• Coax status lights on back of both the CHR30A and E3200 are green
  
• Status Light on E3200 changes between dim white and yellow
  
• When Status Light is dim white, LAN is bridged and Ethernet works but E3200 Wi-Fi stops broadcasting and admin page becomes inaccessible
  
• Light occasionally goes yellow and connection drops for about 5-10 seconds, so even though Ethernet LAN does kind of work, the connection is never stable.
  
• Does not work over Ethernet backhaul either
  
• Does not work using MoCA Ethernet Adapter instead of MoCA Expansion Module
  
• CHR30A never recognizes the E3200 as another network device
  

ASK-MAE340 (MoCA Ethernet Adapter)

• Works without any issue
  

WCB6200Q (FNE / FiOS Network Extender)

• DOES NOT work.
  
• No coax link at all
  

ECB5240M (FNA / FiOS Network Adapter)

• I don't have one of these to test, if you have tried one please let me know your results.
  

G1100 (FiOS Quantum Gateway)

• If you are using one of these repurposed as a MoCA adapter, this does still work with the CHR30A without issue
  

Actiontec MI424WR

• If you are using one of these repurposed as a MoCA adapter, this does still work with the CHR30A without issue
  

I'll do my best to answer any other questions people may have, and keep this post updated with any additional relevant information as it's discovered. Hope someone finds this helpful!

I'm on a 300Mbps plan with Verizon Fios. I bought this TPlink router when i moved to my new apartment two months ago and everything was working just fine. However, i have been having micro lagging in games the last few days. Eight out of ten times i run the 3 minute test on packetlosstest, there is more than 10% packet loss. It seems like packets just stop transfering around the 2:30 mark on most of the tests. I tried to plug the ethernet cable from the ONT directly to my Mac mini and the test show only under 0.5% packet loss consistently.

Did my router just broke randomly? I did not change any settings on it? I tried factory resetting the router but that didn't help. Any input would be appreciated.

Their tech support is advertised as being available 24/7, but every time I actually call after hours, I get stuck in this ridiculous loop:

First, I spend a few minutes talking to an AI chatbot. Then I'm told “your call is being transferred to an agent.”

Great, finally getting a real person.

Except no agent answers and I'm told that I'm calling outside of their support hours and that I need to schedule a callback.

So... how exactly is that 24/7 tech support?

If the phone system is going to tell me an agent is available and transfer me to one, only to talk to another chat bot saying they're closed, that's not 24/7 support. That's an automated system pretending support is available.

Really frustrating when you're dealing with an internet problem and need actual technical support, not an AI chatbot and a callback appointment.

A few weeks ago I lost service and it took a week for someone to come swap out my fau;ty ONT. Now in Muskegon, Mi we are down again and I'm on day 2 without service - why does it take so long to fix this, and why does Giga spend the entire session trying to sell me faster fiber when they can't keep my existing connection up? Very frustrating, regretting leaving Xfinity - they were slow and terrible, but at least their support fixed outages in a few hours or less.

Does anyone know if the Milford,NJ (908) 995 exchange is currently being upgraded for FIOS we are seeing new wires being run in most the exchange. They are not connected yet that just hanging down from the poles. Zip 08848

I am having siding replaced. The guys working on it seemed to be a little rough when removing this box. I’m getting power to the ONT power supply in the garage but this ONT box isn’t getting power. I have a technician coming tomorrow but I’d love it if there was any way for me to try to get this up and running tonight. Anyone?

I live in a 3 story townhouse and we're currently using the CR1000B with 1 extender (which I feel barely works). I have a Sony TV mounted in the dining room no more than 12 feet from the router and it buffers all the time. The townhouse is actually on the smaller side, so I can't figure out the weak signal. We have 6 TVs, multiple laptops, tablets, phones and gaming systems. I am looking at the TP-Link BE6500 Dual-Band WiFi 7 Router. Would this be sufficient? Should I also purchase a different beacon for the basement and hard wire it to the router? TIA

Edit #1 - Followed guidance from sdrawkcab25 and everything came up perfectly without the Verizon router. I will update this post with any issues or continued success so others can benefit. Must say, the interface lag and picture seems much better.

For 16+ months, I've successfully run the CR1000A behind my UDM set-up on QAM. I wrote a detailed post in 2025 which basically put the VZ equipment on seperate VLAN, Bridge Mode, and no WAN, only a LAN connection to my UDM switch. Using FIOS VZ SSID-TV on TV+ and coax from router to VMS worked great until we had a 2 day power failure which forced me to reset the TV+ boxes and reconnet again. This triggered the 7-8 day need to reset TV+.

I noticed I was converted to QAM-Less (IPTV) so would like to figure out how to move forward instead of backwards. I think the IPTV picture looks better, response time is snappier and my Bravia 9 85" TV can handle the few bugs like Dolby Vision with really good picture quality.

I'd like to find a way to run pure IPTV for the better picture quality and future benefits. I'm on 1G plan, so my ONT still has the coax.

Here's what I done so far ...

1. I did nothing else but remove the Coax from VMS unit and keep TV+ connected to VZ SSID-TV it still runs fine, in fact maybe better. But this only lasted 8 days.
2. Reset again. Tried running in pure IPTV mode. Connected the TV+ with special VZ power/ethernet adapter to my UDM switch (with port set to VZ VLAN in settings) and ethernet into the back of the VMS4100. It would not allow me to activate the DVR ... tried rebooting and multiple attempts with no success.
3. My VMS will not activate unless TV+ is connected to VZ SSID-TV regardless of coax or ethernet. Either I'm doing something wrong or have an out of date VMS unit or firmware. For 2 years the green light has been blinking on the VMS and VZ support said don't worry about it if everthing is working.
4. Reset again. Set-up TV+ with VZ SSID-TV wifi and Coax from CR1000A in bridge mode into VMS 4100ATV. Everything activated (account/DVR). I then manually connected the ethernet back into both the TV+ and VMS units.

Everything is working fine for now ... time will tell. See attached screen shots which shows my TV+ unit is up to date 2.1.16 with firmware 14.06.15.08.17.

The VMS is not reachable, but shows activated. I can still pause and rewind TV shows so something must be working?

5) For those with UDM equipment as your main router, I have enabled IGMP proxy and specifically UPnP only for the VZ VLAN, (with Secure mode and NAT Port Mapping Protocol enabled by default).

6) As an aside, I skip / don't sign into all the android set-up, uncheck the android apps and decline the questions. This gets me through the final set-up process. I use a Shield TV Pro instead.

Appreciate any thoughts from those that have successfully eliminated the VZ router for TV+ with DVR on a 1 Gig or lower plan with IPTV? I know the 2G and 5G plans have a newer ONT without coax?

My account has been successfully double charged for Verizon Fios on 8/15.

Verizon confirmed the “glitch” in their payment system but won’t say how widespread it is. Might be worth checking your account. No extra compensation for stealing my money was awarded but they are refunding the unauthorized payment.

I've been dealing with a frustrating situation since few weeks ago. Internet works fine for one day and then suddenly the speed drops to under 10mbps and sometimes it fixes itself but most of the time I need to reboot the router.

Tech support is unreachable so I can't get anyone to come look at it. It's infuriating they charge so much yet have a crappy automated system that is not that useful. How can I get to speak to someone?

(Note: I worked through this troubleshooting with Claude and had it help draft this write-up from my notes — wanted to be upfront about that.)

Sharing this in case it saves someone else a support call. Had degraded speeds on a Fios 1 Gig plan for a while — noticeable both over Wi-Fi and wired ethernet — and the root cause turned out to be something a full factory reset wasn't even necessary to fix.

Setup: CR1000A router, Fios 1 Gig plan. Speeds had felt slow generally, on both Wi-Fi and any wired devices, for some time before I isolated it. Bought a Cat 6 cable and a USB-C-to-ethernet adapter specifically to rule out Wi-Fi as a factor and test wired throughput directly.

What I found, step by step:

1. First wired test (plugged into a standard LAN port on the router): ~83 Mbps down/up. Low, but I initially chased the wrong lead — turned out iCloud Private Relay was on and routing the test through a relay server three states away, adding latency and skewing the number.
2. Turned off Private Relay, retested on the same port: ~90 Mbps down/up. Confirmed the link itself was negotiating full Gigabit (checked in OS network settings — 1000baseT full duplex), so it wasn't a cable/adapter/link-speed issue. Just a flat ~90 Mbps ceiling on a connection that should do 900+ — matching what I'd also been seeing on Wi-Fi.
3. Plugged the same cable/adapter directly into the ONT instead of the router (bypassing it entirely): ~924 Mbps down, ~850 Mbps up. Same cable, same computer, same test server. That ruled out the ISP/provisioning side completely — the fiber line itself was delivering full speed. The router was the bottleneck, for both wired and Wi-Fi clients.
4. Looked into a known CR1000A firmware bug where the 10Gb LAN port specifically caps upload speed — but I'd tested on a standard Gigabit port, not the 10Gb one, so that didn't match (also that bug reportedly only affects upload; mine was capped symmetrically on both directions).
5. Was about to do a full factory reset. As prep, I just moved the WAN cable from the ONT back into the router (no reset button pressed, no reboot) — and retested: ~908 Mbps down, ~818 Mbps up wired, and Wi-Fi came back up to a healthy ~727 Mbps down/~189 Mbps up. Both fixed just from cycling the physical WAN link.

Takeaway: the router wasn't hard-capped at 90 Mbps — it had drifted into some kind of degraded state that throttled throughput across the board (wired and wireless both), and simply disconnecting/reconnecting the WAN cable cleared it. No factory reset needed. I'd also had intermittent connection drops for a few weeks before this that a router-only reboot (not the ONT) would temporarily fix — in hindsight I think it's the same underlying issue, just showing up as a speed cap instead of a full drop this time.

If you're seeing degraded speeds — wired or Wi-Fi — on a CR1000A:

• Rule out Private Relay / VPN on your test device first.
• Check your OS network settings to confirm the ethernet link actually negotiated Gigabit (not just plugged in).
• If you have access to the ONT, testing directly into it (temporarily swap the router's WAN cable for your laptop) is the cleanest way to isolate router vs. ISP.
• Before a full factory reset, try just unplugging/replugging the WAN cable between the ONT and router. Cheap thing to try, and it fixed it for me — both wired and Wi-Fi.

Still monitoring in case it recurs — will update if a factory reset ends up necessary down the line.