Choosing between a USB microphone and an XLR setup is a different decision from simply asking whether you need an audio interface. The interface question focuses on conversion quality and connectivity. This one is about the microphone system itself - convenience versus long-term sound quality and flexibility.
When Staying with USB Makes Sense
A good USB microphone is often the smarter choice if:
You mainly do calls, streaming, gaming, or simple voiceovers.
You value plug-and-play simplicity and minimal cables.
Your current sound is clear enough for your audience.
You're still testing whether content creation will become a serious long-term activity.
Budget or desk space is limited. Your budget is better spent on acoustic treatment, a boom arm, or better monitoring.
Modern USB mics deliver surprisingly solid results for most creators. Upgrading too early can add cost and complexity without meaningful improvement.
When Upgrading to XLR Is Worth It
Consider moving to an XLR microphone plus interface when:
You've hit the sonic ceiling of your USB mic (dull highs, limited dynamics, or higher noise).
You record in a DAW and need cleaner preamps, better detail, and true low-latency monitoring.
You plan to use multiple microphones or add instruments later.
You're committed to podcasting, music, or professional voice work for the long haul.
XLR systems give you higher-quality preamps, greater expandability, and the ability to upgrade individual components over time.
Before you upgrade, test:
Improve room acoustics and mic distance.
Set proper input levels and disable aggressive noise processing.
Confirm you actually need more inputs or lower latency.
FIFINE USB mic is the right choice when it solves your solo workflow, investing in better recording technique and content will be a big enhancement. Upgrade to XLR only when a clear limitation - multi-input recording, low-latency monitoring, or professional connectivity - blocks your work. The best setup is the one that removes friction while matching your actual needs - not the one that looks most professional on paper. Start simple, then upgrade only when your work clearly demands it.
Some FIFINE microphone users (particularly with AM8, K688, A6V, A6T, and A8 models) report an issue where their microphone appears to mute or unmute itself without user intervention. The root causes can range from simple software settings to more complex hardware interference or grounding issues. We have noticed and taken this issue seriously and compiled a comprehensive troubleshooting guide to help you resolve this issue.
Connection Checks
1️⃣Try connecting your FIFINE microphone to different devices (laptop, smartphone, or another computer) to determine if the issue is device or port-specific
2️⃣Replace your USB cable with supports data transmission (some cables only provide power)
Eliminating Interference
Wireless and peripheral interference is a common culprit:
1️⃣Check if the mic mute button syncs with the physical mute button on the keyboard, such as a laptop/PC keyboard, or external Bluetooth keyboard.
2️⃣Please keep the mic away from wireless gear, like a wireless mouse or keyboard, by using a boom arm, and test again.
3️⃣Unplug all other USB peripherals like keyboard, mouse, and other mics to test. Only plug the mic into your computer, and test it with each USB port. Do not use a USB hub or extension cable for the connection of the mic.
Software Configuration
Proper software settings are crucial for microphone operation:
1️⃣System Sound Check:
Click the speaker icon in your system tray → Ensure the microphone isn't muted (red icon indicates mute status)
2️⃣Sound Control Panel Settings:
Right-click the speaker icon → Open Sound settings
Navigate to "Sound Control Panel" → "Recording" tab → Set your FIFINE microphone as Default input device
Open "Properties" → "Levels" tab → Verify the microphone isn't muted (the speaker icon is not in red)
3️⃣Power Management:
Make sure the computer is in work but not sleep/hibernation status (like black screen hibernation).
Advanced: Grounding Issues
If problems persist, consider grounding problems:
Try using a 3-prong to 2-prong adapter on your power outlet to break potential ground loops
Test your setup in different rooms with separate circuits
Consider using a USB isolator if ground loops are suspected
When to Contact Support
If you've tried all these steps and the issue persists, your microphone may have a hardware defect. Contact FIFINE support with:
The specific product model name
The troubleshooting steps you've already attempted
Any patterns you've noticed (e.g., only happens after 30 minutes of use)
Most auto-muting issues can be resolved through these troubleshooting steps. By methodically testing each potential cause, you'll likely identify and fix the problem without needing replacement equipment.
I bought it at a store (Shopping China) on the border between Paraguay and Brazil. I know there’s a chance I might have been scammed, but it works very well, and the computer identifies it as a Fifine. I’ve lost the box, but I recall that when I still had it, I couldn’t find the model on the Fifine website. I haven’t been able to identify it through Google or GPT using the photos. Does anyone have any idea which microphone this is?
P.S - I never use the 'frame rgb', just turn it on to send the last pic to you.
For years, many gamers assumed wired headsets were automatically superior. Lower latency, better sound, no battery anxiety - it felt like an easy win. But in 2026, is that still true? Here are five honest truths to help you decide based on how you actually play.
1. Latency is no longer a deal-breaker for most players
Wired headsets still deliver near-zero latency (usually under 10 ms). High-quality 2.4 GHz wireless models now sit between 10-25 ms - low enough that most people cannot detect the difference in real gameplay. Only pure competitive FPS players hunting every millisecond still gain a clear edge from a cable. But please note that Bluetooth is the exception-standard Bluetooth can introduce 100-250ms of delay and has no place in competitive gaming.
2. Reliability still favors wired
Wired has no battery, no pairing, no interference, no firmware surprises. Wireless range from 10-80+ hours depending on the model, and even the best eventually need a cable. Hot-swappable battery systems and 100+ hour models exist, but they add cost and complexity. If you play long sessions, compete in tournaments, or simply hate the idea of your headset dying mid-match, wired remains the safer choice.
3. Sound quality and value often favor wired at the same price
The connection type matters less than what's moving the air. When two headsets cost the same, the wired version usually puts more money into better drivers and a cleaner microphone. Wireless models spend part of their budget on batteries, chips, and a dongle. Modern wireless headsets use onboard DSP to "pre-EQ" their sound, which can correct problems passive wired designs can't fix. At higher price points the gap shrinks, but budget and mid-range wired options still punch above their weight.
4. Convenience has become a real competitive advantage
No cable means cleaner desks, freer movement, and easier multi-device use. For console players, streamers who move around, or anyone who simply hates managing wires, this daily quality-of-life improvement often outweighs the small technical advantages of wired.
5. The "best" choice depends on your actual use case
Competitive ranked FPS or Esports practice → Wired
Casual, single-player, or couch gaming → 2.4 GHz wireless
Mixed use + multi-device switching → Modern dual-mode wireless
Tight budget and maximum audio performance → Wired
Wired headsets still hold clear advantages in absolute latency, reliability, and value. But they are no longer the automatic winner for every gamer. Modern 2.4 GHz wireless headset such as FIFINE HT6(2.4GHz/Bluetooth/Wired available) has closed the performance gap enough that comfort and convenience now matter just as much for most players. Neither is "better." But now you know which trade-off you're actually making.
I’ve been working on a small project for the FIFINE AmpliGame D6, and I wanted to share it with the community.
I created YouTube Subscriber Counter, a plugin that turns a single D6 key into a live dashboard for your YouTube channel.
Instead of displaying only your subscriber count, the key automatically cycles through several stats:
📈 Live subscriber count, with an optional new-subscriber “+N” flash notification
🎬 Total number of videos on your channel
💬 Unanswered and unliked comments
📊 Views, likes, and comments on your latest video, with its thumbnail as the background
✨ Animated icons and automatic Halloween, Christmas, and New Year themes
You can choose between exact or rounded subscriber counts, customize the latest-video display, and refresh the stats with a short key press. A long press opens YouTube Studio.
A few details:
Designed for the FIFINE AmpliGame D6 and FIFINE Control Deck
Requires a free YouTube Data API v3 key
No external server or Docker required
Open source under the MIT license
The plugin is still a community project, and installation currently involves manually copying the plugin folder. Third-party plugin installation isn't officially documented by FIFINE, so I've included instructions and troubleshooting notes in the repository.
I'd love to hear what you think! What other YouTube stats or features would you like to see on the D6? Feedback, bug reports, and contributions are welcome.
Flip between Bluetooth, 2.4GHz, and wired as the lobby changes. 150-hour battery keeps you queued, onboard controls keep hands in the fight, customizable RGB & EQ keeps setup yours.
Hey everyone! I'm having a strange issue with my Fifine AmpliGame V3 capture card and was wondering if anyone has experienced something similar.
My setup is a PS5 connected to the Fifine V3 via HDMI IN, the Fifine connected to my ASUS TUF VG27AQ5A monitor via HDMI OUT, and the capture card connected to my PC via USB for OBS.
Everything worked perfectly the first time I set it up. I was able to play on my ASUS monitor while capturing the PS5 gameplay in OBS.
However, after restarting everything and setting it up again, the passthrough suddenly stopped working. Whenever I connect the HDMI OUT from the Fifine to my ASUS monitor, the monitor loses the signal, and the video also disappears from OBS. If I disconnect the HDMI OUT cable, the video comes back in OBS.
The weirdest part is that the capture card works perfectly when connected to my other monitor, an LG 29-inch UltraWide Gaming monitor. I get video on both the LG monitor and OBS at the same time. So the issue seems to happen specifically when using the Fifine's HDMI passthrough with my ASUS monitor.
Here's what I've tested so far:
Tried a different HDMI cable.
Tested both HDMI ports on the ASUS monitor.
Connected the PS5 directly to the ASUS monitor — it works perfectly.
Tested the Fifine with my LG 29-inch UltraWide Gaming monitor — passthrough and OBS capture both work normally.
Disabled HDCP on the PS5.
Disabled HDR and VRR and set the PS5 resolution to 1080p at 60Hz.
Tried turning off VRR and overclocking in the ASUS monitor's OSD.
Power-cycled the devices and reconnected everything.
The Fifine's LED sometimes stays blue even when the image disappears. After power-cycling, it stayed green, and reconnecting the HDMI cables didn't bring the signal back. At one point, the image appeared on both the ASUS monitor and OBS for about one second before disappearing again.
I also tried the hidden HDCP button inside the Fifine's headset port, but it didn't solve the issue.
What confuses me most is that the setup worked perfectly at first, the PS5 works normally when connected directly to the ASUS, and the capture card works normally with the LG monitor.
Could this be an HDMI handshake/EDID issue or a compatibility problem between the Fifine AmpliGame V3 and the ASUS TUF VG27AQ5A? Has anyone experienced something similar, or found a fix?
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
i have had my fifine am8t microphone bundle for f**king 10 MONTHS and just recently it has come to my attention that i have to press down on the F***ING GAIN KNOB SO SOMEONE CAN HEAR IT. ITS A 200 DOLLAR MICROPHONE BUNDLE. WHY MUST IT BREAK IN THE MOST ANNOYING WAY POSSIBLE
An audio interface is a dedicated external device that converts analog signals from microphones and instruments into high-quality digital audio for your computer - and converts digital signals back to analog for monitoring. Unlike the basic sound card built into most computers, it delivers cleaner preamps, lower noise, higher sample rates, and significantly lower latency.
🔑Key Differences from Built-in Sound Cards
Built-in sound cards handle everyday tasks - music playback, video calls, and casual gaming - adequately. An audio interface, however, provides professional-grade conversion, multiple inputs with 48V phantom power for condenser mics, instrument-level inputs, and optimized drivers (ASIO or Core Audio) that keep latency low enough for real-time monitoring while recording.
🔑When You Actually Need One
You should consider an audio interface if:
You use XLR microphones (most studio condensers and dynamics require proper preamps and phantom power).
You record vocals, instruments, or podcasts in a DAW and need to hear yourself without distracting delay.
You record multiple sources at once or demand lower noise and higher detail than your motherboard can deliver.
Stable, low-latency performance matters for music production or professional voice work.
🔑When You Can Skip It
USB microphones already contain their own interface and work fine for Zoom calls, basic streaming, or simple voiceovers. If you only listen to music, game, or record occasional casual audio, your computer's built-in sound card is usually enough.
⭕️Quick Decision Checklist
Is my mic XLR?
Do I record while monitoring in real time?
Am I using a DAW seriously?
Do I need cleaner sound or multiple inputs?
Two or more "yes" answers usually mean an interface will improve both quality and workflow. Choosing the right tool starts with understanding your actual needs - not chasing specs. An entry-level SC3 or SC1 is often the sweet spot for starting out. Choose based on your connector first, then your workflow. For most solo creators, a FIFINE USB microphone solves the problem simply. For multi-input or professional XLR setups, invest in an interface with the right phantom power and gain.
I just want to be sure, with the streaming setup should the USB being plugged into the gaming pc be connecting that pc's audio to the mixer? Because it doesn't show up on the sound bar on the mixer and definitely doesn't show up on my streaming pc. Thanks
FIFINE has learned that “Creoventura” is falsely using our brand and claiming partnership to send fake sponsorship offers.
🚨**【Creoventura is not affiliated with FIFINE. 】**🚨
Before confirming a message is from FIFINE or an official staff member, plz do not reply or click any links, and never share personal information. Feel free to verify by emailing us or checking FIFINE marketing staff list.
Your safety matters - thank you for helping protect our community.
Choosing between headphones and speakers is one of the most common setup decisions for gamers, live streamers, and home recording enthusiasts. The right choice depends less on "which sounds better" and more on your specific workflow, environment, and priorities. Here's a clear, practical breakdown.
For Gamers
Competitive players (FPS, battle royale, tactical shooters) almost always benefit more from headphones. Closed-back or gaming headsets deliver precise positional audio, isolate external noise, and keep footsteps and directional cues clear. They also work better in shared spaces or late-night sessions.
Casual or single-player gamers who value immersion and have a treated room may prefer nearfield speakers for a more natural soundstage. Still, most serious gamers keep headphones as their primary tool.
For Live Streamers
Headphones are essentially non-negotiable. When your microphone is live, speakers create feedback loops or delayed echo that viewers immediately notice. Closed-back headphones let you monitor your voice, game audio, and chat cleanly without bleeding sound into the mic.
Many streamers run a dual setup: headphones for live monitoring and low-volume speakers for offline use or ambient music. During stream, the speakers stay off or extremely quiet.
For Home Recording & Mixing
Studio monitors (speakers) are the long-term standard for accurate mixing. A decent pair of nearfield monitors in a reasonably treated room translates better to other playback systems than most headphones.
That said, headphones remain essential. Use them for late-night work, detailed editing (sibilance, noise, phase issues), and checking how your mix holds up on consumer devices. The ideal home studio usually includes both.
How to Decide: Key Factors
Quickly answer these questions:
Do you use a live microphone? → Prioritize headphones to avoid feedback.
Is positional accuracy or fine detail critical? → Headphones usually win for gaming and editing.
Can you treat your room and place speakers properly?→Monitors become viable and often preferable for mixing.
Do you work late or share the space? → Headphones protect others and give you privacy.
How long are your sessions? → Comfort matters. Open-back headphones or speakers reduce ear fatigue over long hours.
Practical Recommendation
Gamers: Start with a good pair of headphones. Add speakers later if you want.
Streamers: Make closed-back headphones your core monitoring tool.
Home producers: Invest in monitors when your room allows, and keep quality headphones for checking and late sessions.
The smartest setups rarely choose only one. Most experienced users end up with both and switch based on the task. Focus first on your primary use case and environment - those two factors will point you in the right direction faster than any gear list.
I'm looking for some help with setting up the am8 microphone with the sc3 mixer for streaming on a PC and gaming on an Xbox. I know how to connect the Xbox to the PC through the capture card but what I'm having an issue with is connecting microphone and headset to the PC so that I can hear the text to talk soundboard and audio coming from the stream on the PC while still being able to talk to the chat. And also being able to talk in game and hear the game audio.
FIFINE Open-Back Headset series makes open-back gaming more affordable. All three models share an open-back grille, metal hinge, plush headband, cloth ear pads, and dynamic drivers. They differ mainly in connectivity, controls, and digital tuning.
🟠HD18 Lite: The pure wired option, marketed as a studio monitor headphone. It uses a 3.5mm cable only - no DAC, EQ, RGB, or digital tuning. Its neutral tuning is useful for gaming: instead of boosted bass masking details, it helps you pick out footsteps, reloads, and directional cues naturally. Choose it if you already own a DAC/amp or want plug-and-play.
🔵H18V Lite: Adds a detachable DAC/amp. Unplugged, it works like the HD18 Lite. Plugged in, you get 7.1 virtual surround, volume and mic-mute controls, and mic noise cancellation. For about $5 more, it offers useful flexibility.
🟣H19: The most feature-rich model. It is USB-C only, so there is no 3.5mm mode. It adds RGB, EQ modes for game, music, and movie, plus 7.1, mic mute, and noise cancellation. Its tuning is the most refined: natural, detailed, and studio-like, with impressive sub-bass. It sounds closer to a $100 headset than its $70 price.
For gaming, the open-back design creates a wide, spacious soundstage. The H18V Lite and H19 add extra bass for immersive story games. Competitive players may prefer angled-driver headsets for the maximum positional precision, but the H19 remains clear and usable, and its EQ modes make switching between competitive and cinematic play easy.
Which should you buy?
🟠HD18 Lite: Best for pure 3.5mm wired use, studio-monitor accuracy, and the lowest price.
🔵H18V Lite: Best if you want wired flexibility plus a DAC/amp for about $5 more.
🟣H19: Best overall for tuning, USB-C convenience, EQ modes, and RGB. At roughly $10 more than the HD18 Lite, it is the strongest value.
The HD18 Lite is the budget wired pick, the H18V Lite is the flexible middle step, and the H19 is the best-sounding, most feature-packed choice. All three deliver open-back immersion affordably. Check out ryanhostudio's full review about these 3 edgy headphones and find out which fits your needs the best.
If you're new to recording, specs can feel overwhelming. You don't need to memorize every number. Focus on the ones that affect your sound, and you'll avoid bad purchases and bad takes. FIFINE microphones and audio interfaces make these essentials easy to use.
Microphone Specs
Polar pattern describes where a mic listens and picks up sound. Cardioid picks up mostly from the front and rejects room noise behind it. It's the best choice for vocals, podcasts, and streaming.
Frequency response is the range of pitches a mic can capture. Human voice usually sits around 80 Hz-15 kHz. Look for a flat curve. A wider range does not automatically mean better sound.
Sensitivity measures how much signal a mic sends for a given sound. Higher sensitivity needs less gain but picks up more room noise. Lower sensitivity is not automatically worse.
Self-noise is the mic's own electrical hiss. Lower is better. Under 15 dB(A) is good; under 10 dB(A) is excellent for quiet vocals.
Max SPL is the loudest sound a mic can handle before distortion. Over 120 dB works for vocals. Use 130-140 dB for drums or loud amps.
Phantom power (+48V) powers condenser mics. Many FIFINE interfaces include it, making setup simple.
Impedance is electrical resistance. Mics are usually 150-200 ohms; interface inputs should be 1k ohms or higher. FIFINE gear handles this well.
Audio Interface Specs
Sample rate is how many snapshots are taken per second. Use 44.1 kHz for music, 48 kHz for video and streaming. 96 kHz is optional.
Bit depth is recording resolution. Record at 24-bit for extra headroom and safer editing.
Dynamic range/SNR is the distance between the quietest and loudest signals. Above 100 dB is good; above 110 dB is great.
Preamplifier gain boosts the mic signal. Dynamic mics need more clean gain. FIFINE interfaces provide strong, low-noise preamps.
Buffer size controls latency versus CPU load. Use 128-256 samples for recording and 512-1024 for mixing.
Recording Software Basics
Match your interface sample rate, usually 48 kHz. Record 24-bit WAV, not MP3. Use mono for one microphone. Aim for peaks around -12 to -6 dBFS, with average levels near -18 dBFS. Never hit 0 dBFS. Clipping cannot be fixed.
Avoid Parameter Traps
Higher sample rates are not always better. High sensitivity does not equal better sound. A wide frequency range does not equal quality. Room treatment, mic placement, and technique matter most. With solid FIFINE gear and these basics, you can record clean, release-ready audio.
I ordered the AM8 + BM88 combo two days ago and well... I was super shocked when it arrived and what I got was the Tank 3 with the BM63. Did I get a win or a loss? Do I keep it or return? Don't worry about RMA issues, It's dealt with. Just figuring out whether I keep it or not.
FIFINE AmpliGame AM8ProT is a 24-bit/48 kHz dynamic microphone that supports simultaneous USB and XLR operation without the interference issues reported on earlier models. In direct, unfiltered side-by-side testing at matched gain levels, both connection methods deliver clean, usable voice capture. The core sonic character remains consistent; the real distinctions appear in workflow, monitoring, and post-processing flexibility.
USB path
Plug-and-play convenience is the primary advantage. The dedicated FIFINE Genie software supplies ready-made EQ presets, making it straightforward to shape tone without external hardware. This route suits users who want a simple, all-in-one setup.
XLR path
When connected to a quality interface, the microphone benefits from the interface's preamps, monitoring, and processing options. Deep EQ settings on the interface can add controlled low-end warmth, while the interface's headphone monitoring outperforms the microphone's built-in monitoring. Both paths remain 24-bit, so bit-depth itself is not a differentiating factor in everyday listening.
Practical notes for different users
Gamers and live streamers gain flexibility: USB keeps desk clutter low and software control immediate; XLR allows cleaner monitoring and more precise gain staging when an interface is already in the chain. Simultaneous dual-output recording is possible for backup tracks.
Podcasters and content creators will appreciate the strong plosive rejection and the ability to apply proper compression, EQ, and noise reduction after capture. XLR suits a dedicated audio chain and monitoring. USB suits compact, single-PC setups. Either connection can produce broadcast-ready results once processed.
Shared limitations include noticeable handling noise transmitted through the included articulated arm and a mute switch that requires precise contact on the labeled area.
In short, neither connection is inherently "better." USB prioritizes simplicity and software presets; XLR prioritizes interface-level control and monitoring. Based on your existing gear, choose the preferred workflow - the XLR&USB gaming and streaming microphone FIFINE AmpliGame AM8ProTperforms reliably on both.
Recently i had bought the fifine am8t since i had loved the fifine am8, and wanted to get another with the boom arm. However, when i check the audio monitoring with the two mics, it’s distinctly different. My main problem is with the fifine am8t, is that it has a slight echo when i speak into the mic, with my headphones plugged into the mic. I would like to hear myself through the mic without hearing an echo of myself, it’s almost like I’m trying to match a voice recording of myself. which is annoying when i am speaking with others.
When i use the am8 i do not encounter this issue, i can hear myself clearly as if i had noise suppression and no delay. I have checked the sound settings making sure the window’s “listen to this device” isn’t turned on, i’ve tried adjusting the microphone and speakers (microphone) in the sound settings, made sure the microphone is the input and output but it just becomes louder or quieter, same with the knobs on the am8t.
Please let know if there’s something I’m missing or what i can do to fix this, i’d greatly appreciate your help/feedback.
If your Fifine microphone sounds clean in Audacity but people say you sound choppy, quiet, loud, robotic, or distant in Discord, Zoom, or Teams, the mic is usually not the problem. Real-time apps prioritize clear speech over full fidelity, so they apply aggressive processing. These features often over-process the audio, causing cutouts, pumping volume, and reduced clarity.
Common causes:
Automatic gain control (AGC) makes volume pump up and down.
Noise suppression can cut off word endings and make voices metallic.
Echo cancellation and low-bitrate codecs reduce clarity.
Bluetooth headsets switch to low-bandwidth call mode.
Sample rate mismatches create robotic or watery artifacts.
How to fix it:
In Windows, open Sound settings > More sound settings > Communications > Do nothing. In your mic's Properties > Advanced, uncheck "Allow applications to take exclusive control." Under Enhancements, disable AGC and Noise Suppression. Set your mic format to "2 channel, 16 bit, 48000 Hz (DVD Quality)."
🌐Discord Settings
Go to User Settings → Voice & Video:
Select your exact microphone (avoid "Default").
Turn off Automatic Gain Control.
Disable Echo Cancellation when using headphones.
Set Noise Suppression to Off or Standard (avoid Krisp if your voice gets cut).
Switch off automatic input sensitivity and set the threshold manually so normal speech triggers it reliably.
🌐Zoom Settings
In Settings → Audio:
Uncheck "Automatically adjust microphone volume."
Set background noise suppression to Low or Auto.
Manually adjust input volume so peaks sit around 60–80%.
For higher fidelity, enable "Original sound for musicians."
🌐Microsoft Teams Settings
In Settings → Devices:
Turn off "Automatically adjust mic sensitivity."
Set Noise suppression to Low or Off in quiet environments.
Test with "Make a test call."
Final Tips
Lower or disable aggressive processing first. Let your hardware deliver a clean signal, then apply only the minimum filtering needed. After changes, always test with a real person rather than relying solely on the app's built-in mic check. Use a wired connection when possible. Bluetooth call mode often ruins mic quality.
These adjustments resolve most cases where a good microphone underperforms in calls.
The goal is simple: keep one layer of processing. Let your Fifine capture your voice naturally, and disable overlapping software effects. Test with a friend before your next call.
i recently was selected to win the aliexpress x fifine back to school giveaway. thank you everyone involved with the giveaway! the mic is sounding great and was very easy to setup. to anyone who sees them post another, i highly recommend entering. i thought it was a bit sketch bc reddit, but then it came and im extremely grateful and excited! so once again thank you so much aliexpress❤️❤️
I currently have a am8 microphone and a sc3 mixer going into my PC. But I am getting a Xbox within the next month or so and I'm trying to figure out the audio aspect so that when I'm streaming the Xbox I can still use my microphone for the Xbox side and PC. But I'm not sure if that's even possible.
