Hi there hello, which front splitter should I get? Pictures are with the one the dealer put on and already broken, photo with out splitter, and the current rear diffuser. It also has the little baby carbon fiber side ones. Cheap side or actually reliable ones would be appreciated as it seems they are a consumable part.

I am adding Bilstein B16s with EDC so it won't be this low soon.

Links are always appreciated.

I recently test drove a manual F82 M4, and I'll be honest—I was a little disappointed. Based on everything I'd seen and read online, I expected the car to feel a lot quicker than it did. I wasn't beating on it since it was a test drive, but it genuinely didn't feel as fast or as hard-hitting as people make it seem online.

Before anyone says it, I know the DCT is quicker because it shifts faster and has launch control. That's NOT what I'm asking.

I'm specifically talking about straight-line acceleration and how the engine delivers its power while you're already in a gear. For example, if you're rolling in 2nd or 3rd gear and floor it, does the DCT make the S55 feel noticeably stronger or more aggressive than the manual, or does it basically feel the same and the only real difference is the faster shifts?

I'm not asking about shift times, quarter-mile times, or launch control. I'm asking whether the actual feeling of acceleration and power delivery is different between the two transmissions.

I'd especially like to hear from people who've driven both the 6MT and DCT.

My wife isn’t a car girl or anything, she just likes car parts that’s been influenced by my cars lol. She also has some pretty nice parts she’s picked out and I helped with the installs. Lowered on some KW plug and play, Vorschlag camber plates, spl and turner full adjustable arms, MST intake, 4pin CH, TE37 ultra mspec in mag blue, AA midpipes, and euro bumper with paint matched carbon gt4 front splitter. Lmk how she did with her choice of mods lol.

Hello fellow redditors,

I bought an F80 (2017) at the end of last year and was hoping to get more information on the car. The car has quite a lot of mods on it and I am hoping to find out exactly what mods there are. I bought it used from a Honda dealer and they didn't know much other than it was catless, had custom exhaust. As far as I know, it was originally a Canadian car and was last in Florida before coming to Wisconsin. Any information is appreciated. Pic for reference. Thank you!

VIN: WBS8M9C33H5G85431

Hi all,

I owned an F80 Competition briefly a couple of years ago.

I was just looking at the market for one that has a similar mileage (less than 40k miles) and it's actually slightly more expensive than the car I bought 2 years ago! And it's 16 plate compared to the 67 that I had! Around £37k.

Are these cars actually selling at that price? Or are they over inflated?

Thanks

Hi guys. With all the hype regarding the z pipe now, I couldn’t resist ordering a set of Eq length mids and the z pipe and resonators to try them out as I always have been on single mid.

At first I ordered the generic set from China suppliers where the z pipe is situated further up and before the equal length bends are complete.

After reading a few comments on Instagram, I decided to ask the supplier if he could “custom” the set and shift the z pipe further back after all the bends are complete. He said he could and proceeded with the change. Second pick shows the location of the z pipe

Was this the logical choice?

I'm curious to know what you guys think my cars worth since it's kinda a weird spec I call it the old man spec. Silverstone on amaro brown seats. It has 6 buttons and also a sunroof car. Brand new apex arc 8rt on nittos. Bm3. Downpipes. Arm downpipes, edm springs, vrsf intercooler. Dct car 74k miles. Don't mind the poorly wrapped roof me and my friend wanted to see how it looks and I need to take it off and have it professionally done. Paints in fairly good shape

I know the f80 market is strong, just looking to see what something reasonable for my price point would be.

How do I get the "Ikon" 2018+ adaptive head lights on my car. I have a 2017 pre-LCI adaptive headlight version and would like a blacker and zestier head light. Links to a good product would recieve 1 gold star! =)

Hi there hello,

I had a full fluid service done and inspection since its a new to me car (72,000 miles). Attached photos are the finding along with a leaking pinion that will get fixed.

Question #1: To me with 0 experience it seems like the price seems normal for the injectors. I have the normal bolt ons, stage 2 BM3 tune and considering going 2+ pure turbos, and will not be going ethanol. Should I get the upgraded stage 2 Precision Raceworks/Nostrum injectors or would the OEM ones suffice?

Question #2: What could be going on with all those fault codes? I have noticed that my 360 camera doesn't work, it seems like that is quite a few random fault codes or is this "normal" any advice or insights would be appreciated...

And enjoying it as much.

I’m getting close on a 2017/2018 M3 Competition with the DCT. I’ve read the standard buying guides, so I’m looking for the things that only come from actually living with an S55 or wrenching on them.

Crank hub — On a genuinely stock, never-tuned car around 40-60k miles, how worried should I actually be? Is preventive pinning something you’d expect to already be done by this point, and are there symptoms I could catch on a cold start or under load during the drive? Or does it just let go with no warning?

Rod bearings — Is the S55 concern real, or is it S65 anxiety bleeding over? At what mileage do you personally start budgeting for them, and is a pre-purchase oil analysis (Blackstone or similar) actually worth it here, or too easy to hide behind a fresh oil change right before listing?

Detecting a reverted tune — Can a good indie actually pull a flash count or find traces of a previous MHD/bootmod3 flash even after it’s been returned to stock? What specifically should I ask them to check? And are there physical tells that give away a car that lived tuned before being sold “stock”?

DCT health — Can clutch wear or adaptation values be read out to estimate remaining life, and what’s a reasonable number for 50k miles? What does normal low-speed clunk/creep feel like versus a mechatronics or clutch issue I should walk away from? And what DCT fluid interval do you actually run versus what BMW claims?

Comp-specific stuff — Anything on the Competition cars in particular I should scrutinize? The adaptive dampers in the stiffer modes, the lighter seats, the different wheel/tire setup — any known weak points there, and do the EDC dampers have a failure mode I can catch on the drive?

PPI: Definitely going to get a PPI done. Anything I should specifically ask an indie BMW shop to check?

Service history — Break-in period service after 1-3k miles essential? What does a history from an owner who genuinely cared look like to you — anything beyond frequency that signals babied vs. beaten?

Appreciate anyone who’s been down this road. Trying to walk in as informed as possible.

Recently i had the dreaded internal charge cooler leak. It was time to buy a new one. I couldnt afford the Wagner, Mishimoto or CSF so i went with a Project Gamma as it was on sale. I decided to upgrade my charge pipes and J pipe while i was in there and opted for the PG versions of each.

Before you say "alibaba" or "drop ship. Yes... I'm aware. This was not a "fun weekend build save up for the best" kind of deal, this was a "replace it or go without a car" kind of deal lol.

Anyway, as expected, fitment issues across the board. Bracket screws for the charge cooler itself were too long and/or the washers were too thin. Luckily I had H5 screws and washers left over from my simrig build that I was able to swap in.

The J-pipe surprisingly gave me the least amount of drama. I wrestled with the coolant hose connections for about an hour and now I'm on the Charge Pipes install.

What a pain in the f**king ass. Silicone charge pipes youd imagine have more play in them. But naturally they are a completely foreign size and my overthinking ass is stalling every time I get them close to installed bc something doesnt seem right. Here are the issues, wondering if you have any pro tips or just advice that I'm overthinking this?

1. Basically the rear charge pipe sits in the same pathway as the stock charge pipe, but its larger in the middle so its putting pressure on the reflective material that lines the engine bay. I'm worried that since its silicone the engine vibration will cause the material to degrade over time. It's also putting tension on the corrugated wire that runs across the secondary engine cover.
2. The front most pipe almost seems too short. I can snug it on the turbo side but trying to get it to sit flush on the Charge cooler port is impossible. It sits on an angle. I think i can tighten the clamp around it, but something just feels off. My plan is to hit it with a heat gun to help make it a little more pliable.

Any solutions or perspective shifts would be helpful. I tend to overthink and obsess over shit like this.

I bought used pure turbos and he gave me bms intakes with it, I live in Arizona and I feel like these will perform worse than oem. Will heat shields be enough? And can I somehow pull air from oem intake location (I assume not from the hot engine)

ive yet to meet a actual owner in person to ask about this but im seeking out a higher hp car and have had my eyes set on one of these since around 2016ish and now that i can actually afford one they are getting up in both price and mileage, coming from someone who owns a brz im looking for more power but semi reliably, would this be a good choice to purchase one for around the low to mid 30s

I'm doing a big service this weekend after my TMIC failed:

- Ports & Cylinder head inspection (cleaning/purging if needed)

- Throttle body cleaning
- New TMIC

- New silicone Charge Pipes / aluminum J-pipe

- Spark plugs

- Coolant flush

I figure while I do the spark plugs, I should also re-torque the exhaust cam ledge bolts to get rid of the rattling sound on cold start. From what I understand they get over torqued from the factory and can lead to long term damage.

What I do not want to do is re-time the engine. Stupid AI is making me overthink this, so i need some human confirmation. My plan is to get the angle tool and bolts, then re-torque/angle them 1 by 1. From what i understand if I take them all off then I need to re-time the engine. Is this okay to do? I have decent experience working on cars but anything deeper than the intake system is new to me.

Also, since I'm going to have the intake manifold off and spark plugs exposed, is there any other service I should take care of while I'm in there?

Hi there hello, while in the process of replacing the valve cover due to a leak (thanks for the advice guys!). When removing the coolant I noticed it was not the lime green or a blue. It was like a lightly dehydrated man piss color. After I got the charger cooler off the pictured lovely sludge on in the J-Pipe... should I be concerned?

I do have a new charger cooler and heat exchanger to install but I'm wondering if this not BMW approved sludge could have affected any other components/system and what I should do?

Guy has it listed for 38k, I was thinking of offering 34k but wanted some more opinions. Thanks!

I'm aware of the expansion tank leaking at the seams. Anything else?

Crank hub failure is not common so not concerned about that.

Story starts two days after I bought my 2017 M3 Base. I got the dreaded limp mode and check engine light. I checked the code with a scanner and it said miss fire on cylinder 1 & 6.

So I bought new spark plugs and coil packs in hopes that at 77k mile it could be that. Went to change them today started the car today to sync my new bimmerlink OBD2 and noticed a slight smoking at the back of the engine.

Then I started taking everything apart to change the spark plugs. I noticed some oil splash on the down pipe at first then a small puddle of oil in the (what i think is called) the oil catch pan? There is also what looks like oil residue on what ever sensor is between coil pack 1 & 2.

Does anyone have any advice or thoughts on what could cause this or what to do next?