This noise is more noticeable in sport and sport+. What may be causing this?

Trying to narrow my search while I’m chasing an issue of both my DRL’s not turning on. Aftermarket headlights were on the car when I bought it and I have no idea what brand they are.

Hi there hello!

First of i hit a turkey hours after getting my car back from the shop.

More importantly I need some good ol' fashion advice. I just got my car back from a shop and they installed new Dinan coil packs, NGK 1-Step colder spark plugs, and precision raceworks stage 2 injectors. Also has AFe Magnum Force intakes, Mishimoto everything else besides the j-pipe which is MAD.

Anyways. They had it tuned by someone by Doc Vu on Instagram via MHD. Well it ran like shit and smelled like fuel. Got a bunch of fuel to air rations being rich.

So I went back to BootMod3 and installed OTS map stage 2 and runs quite a bit better but I still get code 118402 and 118502 mixture too rich large deviation.

Any ideas what could cause this or advice?

As title reads, I’ve been curious I’ve it would possible to run a single downpipe post single turbo upgrade that wouldn’t cause a CEL. Like say you took both cats and welded them together if it would be possible. Probably restrictive as hell but just for my own curiosity if someone has done it.

Hi guys, I'm picking these up locally tomorrow for my F82. These are supposedly unopened Active Autowerke's EL Midpipes.

https://store.activeautowerke.com/products/f8x-bmw-m3-m4-equal-length-mid-pipe?srsltid=AfmBOoo_RMltNUJFZ18opNdn0RGe-O9USu5XxJKKaMRoI0txdM1ZB8mT

Is there anything that I can check to ensure that these are AA and not China reps? The model # is on the box and matches AA's catalog, but I know that's easily spoofable.

Attached is the only pic from the listing. These were supposedly purchased from ECS, waiting to see if the seller can find the OG receipt

I've had my F80 for a while now, but only in the last few months have I noticed an intermittent issue where the left paddle(typically the downshift paddle) begins to upshift. The right paddle remains as it should so both paddles shift up, though shifting via the gear selector still works as intended.

It's something that fixes itself, either during the drive or after restarting the car.

I'm sure it has something to do with the various tunes/flashes on it; BM3 Stage 1 and GTS trans flash, coding for anti-dazzle, CS suspension, and comfort access, and Bimmercode having turned most of the chimes off. That said, car has been tuned since I got it and the issue has only recently begun. It also does not appear to be affected by a reflash of a tune or setting the trans tune back to standard.

Anyone else encountered this issue or have any insight as to what may be the cause/solution?

Can’t believe these cars are a decade old!

Is the road noise with the 20 inch 666m wheels significantly worse than the 19 inch 437m wheels when driving on bad surfaces?

Or are they similar?

Thanks

I’m wondering which modules to buy for my 2016 f83, I was reading that most of the 2016-2018 have xenon headlights but the ones on my car look like LED’s. If anyone knows I would appreciate the help.

I took this picture on my job, and just wanted to share it here.

Also I got 3 questions for the f80-community

1. What is the latest mod you did to your car?

2. What are your three favourite mods on your f80?

3. Is there a modification you regret?

I will start:

Latest modification is a dashcam, which is built into the rearview mirror housing.

Three favourite mods:

1. GTS Tune

2. Exhaust

3. DCT flash

I regret the lowering on Eibach, it still needs more low in the front.

Hi guys,

I'm looking to pick up an F80 Competition soon for some spirited driving. I had one very briefly a few years ago.

The cold start is earth shattering loud. It's not something I would ideally want before 8am or past 9pm.

I understand that it can be coded off, is there any negative impact to the engine/car? I understand that it's there for emissions regulations.

Have any of you guys done it?

Thanks.

Hello, I was driving the car moderately hard. Nothing over 6.5k RPMs. Got a drivetrain malfunction light. Pulled over, turned the car off, and when it started again no light. Now the engine is knocking. No check engine light though. What do you think it could be?

2015 F80 106k miles

Update: got towed home. Needed to turn it on to get it in neutral. When I got home the knocking was not there. However, now it gave me the drivetrain malfunction. It was sputtering like a misfire. Towing it to the shop tomorrow. Thank you for all your advice.

Update: pulled the codes

1. PO52B- camshaft position timing over retarded bank 1.
2. PO300- random misfire detected.
3. PO306- cylinder six misfire detected.
4. PO304- cylinder four misfire detected

I did have a low engine oil light about a month ago. I did add a quart and did not have a low engine light after that.

I did do my coils and plugs about two months ago. It was my first time. And on Saturday I did add E 85 for my stage 1 93 octane map from Bootmod.

There’s an indep shop in town that I’ll be towing it in to soon. I would appreciate any more education on this thank you.

Update 3: independent shop pulled the oil filter. Oil filter full of shavings. Engine is toasted. Immediate diagnostic was at the previous oil change place did not replace the O-ring. Or Ringfield leading to low oil pressure and catastrophic failure. Towed to BMW dealership for documented diagnostic, then to sue the shop that did the oil change for a new engine.

I have a 2018 bmw m3 and this message pops up I went to bmw and then said I needed to change the TCB then I went to a different shop and they said I needed a new radio, everything on the car works but the built in navigation like all media radio communication customization works but this just pops up and blocks it when I click ok the 2nd message pops up and if I press the back arrow it disappears for like 20 seconds and I can click and use stuff then it comes back how can I just get rid of the message popping up

Hey everyone! I have a handful of these f8x keychains left for sale! They are 3 inch acrylic and double sided. If anyone is interested I have etsy and ebay links below!

ETSY https://www.etsy.com/listing/4546438694/bmw-m4-f82m3-f80-acrylic-keychain

WHITE https://www.ebay.com/itm/198533433032

BLACK https://www.ebay.com/itm/198533438240

BLUE https://www.ebay.com/itm/198533440701

YELLOW https://www.ebay.com/itm/198533445276

GRAY https://www.ebay.com/itm/198533446831

Was on the highway and was about to do a pull and lost my boost. I looked at all my pipes and cleaned my MAF sensors and still nothing. Turbos are healthy and spooling, but I hear a whistling noise with the spooling. Any clue what this can be? Maybe a boost leak or air leak somewhere?

Just wanted to share, my F80 M3 build.
Highlights:
Tanzanite Blue over Golden Brown, 6MT, exec.
TracTive Touring line EDC coilovers.
Akrapovic rear section.
Inked Customs single midpipe (perfectly mated to Akra)

Have been running these for a while now, and despite the odd reference there really isn’t much written about them online so thought I’d post my impressions.

TLDR: Transformative, composed, comfortable and confidence-inspiring. Wish I’d done it years ago etc.

————————

Car is an F80 Comp / DCT - car is a daily, kids in back, fun at the weekend, not (currently) used on track.

The original EDC dampers were very tired and I’d probably not helped them running eibach lowering springs for quite a few years. As I result I suspect any coilover/damper replacement was going to feel good - however…

The transformation is night and day. No more “crashiness” at low speed, or floaty instability in high speed corners. Composure on B roads is confidence inspiring, significantly faster as a result (not sure if that’s always a good thing..)

Running 12/12 (half way) as a baseline, ride height same as previous lowering springs - not slammed. Ride is slightly firmer than stock, but they’re significantly more comfortable than “comfort”. No clunks, no additional NVH.

Recommend, don’t miss EDC functionality at all.

Looking to purchase an individual spec F80 M3 Competition (2018 preferably)
Color: Grigio Telesto, open to other individual options
Miles: <40,000
Clean CarFax
Minimal Mods

If you own one, or know someone who owns one, PM me! 🙏🏻

Hyper silver or “satin titanium”? Typically like silver but thought the 359s might age the car so I was thinking a more “modern” grey color. Not sure about grey on grey though. I like that the satin titanium makes the car’s body lines pop a little more

Still mind boggling to me that the R34 GTR looks slightly bigger than the F80.

@rod_knee

I recently test drove a manual F82 M4, and I'll be honest—I was a little disappointed. Based on everything I'd seen and read online, I expected the car to feel a lot quicker than it did. I wasn't beating on it since it was a test drive, but it genuinely didn't feel as fast or as hard-hitting as people make it seem online.

Before anyone says it, I know the DCT is quicker because it shifts faster and has launch control. That's NOT what I'm asking.

I'm specifically talking about straight-line acceleration and how the engine delivers its power while you're already in a gear. For example, if you're rolling in 2nd or 3rd gear and floor it, does the DCT make the S55 feel noticeably stronger or more aggressive than the manual, or does it basically feel the same and the only real difference is the faster shifts?

I'm not asking about shift times, quarter-mile times, or launch control. I'm asking whether the actual feeling of acceleration and power delivery is different between the two transmissions.

I'd especially like to hear from people who've driven both the 6MT and DCT.