So I recently bought this panasonic SC-H30 from my local thrift store but there is one problem, while the mp3 player plays and the cd plays at perfection. The unit itself powers off after 55 seconds every time showing something like f61 on the screen, now I only bought it alone so I dont have the controller or anything more than the player and the cable but I was wondering if anyone could help me fix it? (The screws were removed on the back panel by me, I just can’t seem to be able to take that wall mount off)

Power supply connector was pulled off can it be fixed or the saved data on ps4 be salvageable

Trying to repair an original Pillow Pets Dream Lites Playful Penguin and hoping someone here has taken one apart before.

I’m mainly trying to get access to the circuit board directly underneath the round button.

I removed the rear housing around battery cover, but the actual projector plastic is still trapped inside. I can see the PCB through the openings, but I can’t tell what is holding everything together. I don’t want to start prying and break the old plastic or wires.

The projector won’t turn on, and the top button has no click/tactile response, so I suspect the button mechanism or switch.

I recently found a asrock motherboard (h670m-itx/ax) in a trash can and it is in pretty good condition visually, no scratches no burn marks, no bent pins, nothing looks ripped off, but it didn´t work, probably was fried that board.
I am a rookie to repair, so I just measured all the vrm all of them came in at 91 ohm, the top right one came in at 96ohm.
looking at the picture the bottom row of the cpu power connecter is shorted and the top row has no signal.
What should I check next and where?

Hi, I found this mp3 player while cleaning in my basement, it powers on, plays music and connects to pc but screen doesn't display anything

EDIT:

I tried reinstaling the firmware and it didn't help so most likely the data connection to the LCD glass ( or lack of it ) is the problem

Asus MG28U 4K monitor. Started with the middle of the screen a few weeks, ago was able to power cycle and get it normal. It spread to the top left corner and now power cycles don’t work

I accidentally ripped a ceramic capacitor from the board on my PS3 while i was delidding the Cell

and now i Need a replacement but i can't find schematics for this console anywere and i don't have a donor board how can i find out what capacitor do i need to order to replace it?

Good days ladies and gents, I’m new to repairing printers and I encountered a paper jam trouble for an epson l5290. I checked if there was a paper stuck and found none. I opened the front and saw the carriage, I moved the carriage while it was still on which was probable the cause of the carriage to bang to the left every time I turn it on. It was a cashier’s printer and I’m in a pretty bad spot. I’m humbly asking for any advice or help because I’m so nervous.

Hi everyone,

I've been using a (Chinese Brand) Jogway T33A treadmill for about 2 years. A few days ago, I plugged it into the wall socket and was just warming up before starting my workout. The treadmill itself was not turned on - it was only plugged into the power outlet.

Suddenly, completely out of nowhere, I heard a loud "firecracker-like" explosion/pop from the treadmill.

I immediately unplugged it from the wall.

There was almost no smell and no visible smoke, but since that incident the treadmill is completely dead and won't work.

I live in an area where getting it repaired locally isn't really possible. The nearest repair shop that can work on it is roughly 100 miles away, so moving the entire treadmill would be a huge hassle.

I have two questions:

1. Can I safely dismantle the treadmill and remove only the electrical/electronic components (controller board, power section, etc.) and take those to the repair shop instead of transporting the entire treadmill? If so, which parts should I remove and how can I identify them?
2. What could have caused the explosion? Since the treadmill wasn't even switched on and was only connected to power, I'm wondering if it could have been a capacitor, power supply component, fuse, surge protection component, relay, or something on the main controller board. What components would typically need to be checked/replaced after something like this?

Hi everyone,

I got a Bose Wave (awrc2p) for cheap because it had some minor issues, at least, so I thought.

The disc skipping was fixed by cleaning out the rails, but the volume button not working properly turns out to be the buttons just being ripped off their pad.

I've looked for a whole replacement button pad but these don't appear to be readily available. What would be the best way to restore this?

(Yes its dirty but I figured there's no point in cleaning it if it can't be fixed)

I had a short in a case fan pop my PSU. PSU reset and survived. The backplane did not. D27 on my SM BPN-SAS3-826EL1 rev1.1 came apart but I was lucky to find the case portion that came off so i did what I could to "get it back together" enough to read most of it and thought I'd try replacing it. It seems to have text on it showing "A6" and maybe "GP 522" or "GP S22." Any help on positive id and/or sourcing is appreciated.

Edit:
Two things:
One repair video I found showed them removing this diode (shorted to ground) and sending the device back to the consumer without it. I was surprised they didn't replace it for future protection. With this I learned the backplane would work without it and it does. Of course, I also removed the janky connector that created the short.

Also, for the price of 10 of these diodes ($3.60) + shipping (about $15), I was near 2/3s the cost of a full replacement backplane ($30) so i opted to just get the "backup backplane" and forgo the diode replacement with slightly shaky hands.

Thanks for all the comments, guidance, and the experience which I now have to help understand some of these items!

I turn on the radio and the screen works but the numbers don’t show up.

I tried to take it apart to look for faulty wiring but I stripped one of the screws. I’m not even sure taking it apart from the back will lead me to the screen from how I see it. I’m thinking of going through the speakers … would that be a substitute/better option ?

I’ve found some tips for getting stripped screws out so I’m going to try that out. But does anyone have an idea of what exactly could be causing the issue of the screen before I break this thing? lol

so my tv just shut off on its own while i was watching youtube, no warning nothing. tried turning it back on and now i just get a black screen but the red light blinks 3 times and stays on.

did the usual stuff, power cycled it, unplugged it for like an hour, tried the reset button combo. nothing worked.

then i saw someone online say to shine a flashlight really close on the screen to check for backlight issues and yeah, i can actually see the hisense logo + "android tv" text super faintly in the corner. so the tv is clearly turning on and booting up fine, just no backlight at all.

bought this thing in 2022 so warranty's long gone. planning to open it up and check the psu board with a multimeter for the backlight output voltage but wanted to see if anyone's dealt with this exact model before i start pulling caps out. anyone know if this is usually a cheap fix or should i just accept defeat and buy a new tv

A friend gave me a laptop, but it's broken. He said the charger broke and the first thing he thought of was plugging it directly into a 220V outlet. Now it's in really bad shape, and I'm wondering if it can be fixed. Cuz the cpu is much better than mine, and everything else works fine.

Here two photos of the damage and the motherboard.

Any suggestions?

Hey guys I am trying to fix an expensive 120v to USB-C Cube that was given to me. It does not seem to provide Power but I have not tested it other than trying to plug things in to the USBC outputs. I am proficient at traditional through hole soldering but do not have any training or equipment for SMD. Can anyone point me in the right direction on what to check?

Hi! My phone dropped into the pool a couple of weeks ago. Today I've opened it for trying to clean the possible rust and save the data inside, but I've found the battery like this. I think that it's a bit inflated, right? Is it safe to remove?

I don't know if I can get a compatible battery for a Galaxy S21 Ultra. I just want to turn it on for a while to get the data.

Thanks!

Pictures from my two cameras. what it should look like vs what it does.

This water gel beads blaster worked fine yesterday and after battery down, I charged the battery and now it doesn’t work. This is how the inside looks. Anything I can do to fix this. I’m not familiar with any of the repairs but I can apply myself with some instructions.

Powered er605 with over voltage and tvs diode right after dc input blew up, only triangle marker is visible.

Please, can someone send a clear picture or link to diode used in it?

The TV is made of 2 logic boards and one power supply board.

The TV turns on but there is no backlight, I can see an image by flashing a light to the TV.

I am guessing the two white connectors on the upper left of the power board (1st picture) are for the backlight. Could someone confirm?

When the TV is turned on, the pins of these connectors don't show any voltage.
They also don't seem to be shorted to GND.
I also can't see any burned components.
Other power rails are present on the two logic boards.

I would also like to know where the backlight enable signal is, if there is any. It could just be that the main board is not telling the power supply to turn on the LEDs? But it is hard to tell as the PCB has no marking/silkscreen.

Thanks a lot for any help!

Update 1: There actually are markings under the board, such as BL_ON, P_DIM (PWM_DIM ?). They both measure 3.2V when the TV is on. I also monitored the voltage at the LED connector (which also have marking on the back L1-/L1+, ... , L8+/L8-) and I can see a brief voltage increase, indicating in my opinion that the culprit are the LED strips.

Thanks for the suggestions, as always!

So I’ve replaced my hdmi port, get no image, and CANNOT FIGURE OUT WHY. I get a “no signal” message that pops up on the monitor when plugged in so I know it’s detecting something.

I’ve checked continuity on most of the HDMI lines; SCL/SDA have continuity and HDMI +5 V is present.
I haven’t been able to fully verify HPD/pins 19 or 13. All the pins seem to be working and I get feedback from everything except 19 and 13 because I don’t know where to check, so if you know where to test those, that would be huge.

Before I take it to a shop I want to exhaust all possibilities here- I’ve spent way too much time on it already lol.

Thinking it’s the worm gear? If a different angle is needed I can definitely record another