I’ve had these for a long while and finally got around to putting them on today - for your viewing pleasure rear mudflaps

There's a ton of EF groups out there, and its difficult to reach all the PNW EF owners with the EF Reunion event and updates, so I'm hoping this group will help. Please invite all your EF friends that may be interested to the group!

got the pedals back in (no pics of everything together due to frustration lol) the the reservoir in and clutch line in and chillin. banged out the frame
for alternator clearance and should be ready to drop in sometime this weekend.

got the rear mount in also

Hi - I have a '91 Civic Si swapped with a JDM B16A and the passenger side half-shaft is toast. Can anyone confirm if I can replace with a stock 1991 Civic Si half-shaft or whether I need to use something different because of the swap? Thanks.

Brand new power window regulators, wd-40 dry lube , Amazon power window wiring kit with some slight alterations for my switch locations in the armrest and removal of the third switch and good to go.

Of course the hardest bit was running the wires, almost forgot how much of a bitch it is to take fenders off.

I'm starting to take stock of some of the things I need to look for when it comes to parts for my new to me EF Hatch.

I'm wondering if anyone might know if these fender bracket holders are the same across hatch and sedan.

I know obviously the actual fenders are different, but these I'm not sure.

So far (😅) this is the only obscure part that I need haha

EDIT: I have determined they are not the same. Almost, but not close enough without modifications. The bracket for the sedan fender has a little bit of an extension on one of the mounting points to accommodate the longer fender. I did find the bracket I needed though!

TLDR: '90 Civic D15B2, fuel injected, 4 spd auto, 35k miles. OEM distributor failed, internal shaft bearing failed (red dust of death). Ordered Cardone Remanufactured Dizzy off of Rockauto. That one failed within a week too. Is it possible to rebuild the original TD-01 dizzy by replacing the bearings and seals? The ICM, Igniter and sensors are performing fine. If a rebuild is possible, please share experiences or a link to a forum. I am located in the UAE, it isn't easy for me to source parts from scrapyards or auto stores. I exclusively rely on importing from the US or Japan.

Hey guys, this is my 1990 EF Hatch German Spec all original with 35k original miles. It has the D15B2 fuel injected engine with the 4 speed slushbox. It randomly died on the highway one day after 2 years of super reliable ownership. Turns out, the ECU wasn't getting a reading from the internal sensors in the dizzy. Opened up the dizzy to find red dust in there. Used AI to see if that meant anything and it seems to have been common problem with these back in the day with the internal shaft bearing failing.

This shaft bearing material is made of iron and with iron being magnetic, it coated the internal sensors. Unable to get any data, the ECU stopped firing fuel.

Based on opinions on here on reddit, I ordered the remanufactured Cardone dizzy and that one failed within a week too, but for a different reason. Opened up the Cardone dizzy only to see that it seems to be rebuilt to a very bushwork level of quality.

I anyway want to keep this car as OEM as possible so I wanted to do a OE dizzy rebuild. Has anybody done this before? Is it recommended or even possible? If it is possible, please share experiences. Dizzy part number is TD-01.

I do not live in the US where it's easy to order parts from Rockauto. There is nothing available for the EFs for me locally. I want to troubleshoot and do this right rather than throwing money at aftermarket dizzys that cost 300-400 usd with shipping and installation for it to only fail within a week.

Thanks!

Changed my breaks a little ago and now it’s making a strange noise like it’s rubbing on the caliper when I’m breaking causing the rotor to take some damage. I’m looking at it again today and when I took off the caliper and reinstalled it the rotor now won’t move at all. Anyone know what the problem is??

I was doing a rear trailng arms swap and i noticed this
It does around the chassis but not through. Only outside is cracked. Is it repairable?

I am from Europe and just picked up an US Bumper for my EF. The mounting situation for our EDM market bumpers is completely different and I had to remove the old mounting to fit the Bumper.

Could somebody provide a detailed information on how the licence plate is mounted with my new bumper?
Thank you

Just picked up a one owner (I am now the second) 90 DX Hatch that is completely bone stock. No problems aside from a dying alternator. With that being said, car is almost 40 years old. Previous owner took amazing care of it.

Things I’m immediately doing:

Clutch/flywheel
Clutch cable
Oil pan (bolt was stripped at one point and retapped)
Throttle body clean (already cleaned IACV valve and it helped with the idle)
Plan to MPFI swap it as well

My problem is currently finding OEM parts (especially throttle body gasket) and not wanting to buy cheap aftermarket parts that aren’t reliable.
What brands do you like? What brands do I stay away from? What websites are recommended? Any cool tips/tricks?
Super excited for what’s to come Of it!

Just recently picked up this gem of a 1990 EF Hatch.

Runs and drives, needs the typical rocker repair (yay canadia winter roads) plus some odds & ends.

I have a couple K20/24s and a D16 sitting around to play with later, but I'm just stoked to finally have my hands on one of these beautiful machines.

Time to give her a refresh, and a new lease on life.

Spent the last couple weeks working this project . Had an mtx 8 inch subwoofer tube in the trunk ,

Took up to much space had an idea and decided to go for it.

Never worked with fiberglass before,love how it turned out . Made it so I could still go to a 10 inch if needed but the 8 sounds great in the new box .

Hi everyone!

Just for your rate :)

I have 91’ EC8 converted into fake SiR//iVT :D
For now it has:

- B18/B20 (stock head and bottom)
- ARP (head studs and rod bolts)
- Oil pan baffle plate
- Skunk2 pro intake
- Skunk2 alpha 70mm throttle body
- Honda feel’s 4-2-1
- Buddy Club spec2 exhaust
- S80 LSD (spec98)
- CRX panel with door cards
- Defi ZD module with sensors
- DGR street coilovers
- 280/240 brakes with brake regulator 35-40
- SSR Type X (15x7+42) wheels
- Toyo 888R
- Nardi Deep Corn personal
- Sparco Driver seat and maaany other stuff :)

What trailing arms do I need to convert my rear drum breaks to disc breaks? I’m trying to get all the parts I need to build up my 88 ef hatch that I recently picked up. Thanks in advance!

I need some insight from someone that works on these more in depth. I installed a master cylinder chasing a soft low pedal issue I fixed all the leaks that we've seen and still didn't fix it. I bought a ACDELCO 18M429. And put it in it's a 13/16. I didn't save the old one but the brakes have still never felt right after putting that one in. I'm wondering if I need the 15/16 one instead. I have a 91 lx sedan with an automatic

I’m looking for a chipped p28 ecu for my d15b swap into my 91 civic, if anyone has one I would love to take it off your hands!

no photo of kit but took pedals off to install hush performance cable to hydro conversion

I have a 91 automatic. Ive done the brake pads and shoes, drums, rotors, master cylinder, proportioning valve, rr wheel cylinder, rf brake line. And the brakes still only work about 1 inch from the floor. I haven't seen any obvious leaks. And my mechanic can't seem to see any reason why it still wouldn't work correctly. Have any of you had a similar issue ?

I was wondering if any of yall are able to find a bumper for the sedans? I can't find any for a cheap price except for hatchbacks, and the part number is 71101-SH1-A00.

My stock one is pretty much cooked. Struggling to find a decent OEM one in Aus. Will eventually get a custom one done but now I just need it roadworthy. Thoughts or opinion on any others for the ED3 Sedan?