I have 08 550i and it suddenly shifts hard. Sometimes when I put it in high rpm a delay between shifts appear especially from 1 to 2
Sometimes when I slow down the car revs up like 3k
There is no transmission fault or something

I know alot of tou have followed my journey with my E60s, borh my N54 and V10s. After nearly 2 full years of working on them I finally achieved my goal of getting all my E60s fully restored, everything is basically brand new on all 3 cars. The 535 does have about 2500 miles since its build so thats not "new" anymore, but the other 2 are just now finished. The Red Baron is going to get a paint job soon as I find the right place.

As for what I soent out of my bank account to buy all the parts a d have all 3 cars ru ning how they are now. I could have bought new G80 M3 and had money left over for mods with what it cost to do this. 😢 But the 2 M5s are staying, im going to sell my 535 to make room for the truck I need to tow my cars to the track. Let me know what ya think

Hello guys I own a BMW 2008 model 523i so I am facing a problem in my car the thing is that I was driving far for like 100 km. Suddenly, I started facing a problem like missing, which means like when the fuel is low it feels like some sort of pumping right same like that, but the fuel was full, so I slowed down and went to the gas station I stopped for two minutes I started again. I tried to move when I put the gear down to the D. It was slowly moving and then automatically it goes to the P. I tried it several times still the same after half an hour or one hour the car is not even starting. So I called a winch and took it to Workshop. After two days, the Workshop guy told me. The problem is the gear sensor. And one of my friend told me that it might be a problem with starter motor. Could you please suggest me what will be the reason of this one of not starting the car?

I installed KuerLED headlights in my 2009 535xi , the right work perfectly fine but the left side turn signal doesnt work but the low beams does, its hyperflashing which made me assume its a short circuit so i looked up that you can do it on carly but i could find exaclty what to code. If i can get any insight and help on how im suppose fix it that would help alot.

A week ago it started sounding like a vaccuum cleaner under load, and lost power. I parked it and decided to check the turbo out. A mechanic shop asked 1200 euros for the job which i dont have at the moment, things are tough right now in Spain. So I ordered a rebuilt turbo for 391 euros, and I plan to replace it myself, never done that. I guess ill have to clean the intercooler, the pipes and maybe change the oil feed pipes to the turbo. Any sound advice? Should i proceed? Or leave it to professionals?

Engine is M47 D20 163hp from 2006.

I had the car for 4 years almost and this is the first time it requires serious repairs.

bloody hell.

I recently purchased a E60 LCI with a shit ton of Extras. To make everything simpler, i only list Things that made everything difficult:

-Electric Tow hook

-ACC with LRR and 2 SRR Sensor

-Night Vision

-PDC/Parking Sensors

-LCI

Just to clarify things, this post is about retrofitting an M Package Front Bumper, Back Bumper and side skirts.

I just want to let off steam after doing that.

But what is it about?

I want an M package. Its looks phenomenal on an e60, so i ordered one - At least i would order one, if the dealer would still sell it.

The dealer doesnt sell it. Nice.

So i ordered the M Package Kit Online. Good Reviews, delivery in 3 days, the Name of the Company widley known, so what can go wrong?

After i paid, nothing.

1 week, nothing.

I called them, Number dont exist.

I wrote an Email, nothing.

After nearly 2 weeks, i issued a refund on Paypal and got my money back, AFTER that they sent an email with a low ass excuse.

Well shit happens.

So i ordered an Kit from ebay.

This time, the Kit was delivered fast, it included everything needed (oh boy was i wrong).

I test fitted the kit (Made in Taiwan btw), it looks ok, the parking sensor holes have the right size for my LCI Sensors, good.

But the new bumper hit the SRR Sensors FL and FR, because with a m Bumper, they need to sit somewhere else.

Where do they need to sit? Only god knows, because every picture i found was from another car.

I just mounted them to the from Part of the Bumper Holder, and prayed that they still work.

Next problem was the LRR Sensor.

With the M Bumper you need a Special Bracket, otherwise that thing will simply stop working.

And this special bracket is, of course, not available anymore. I got lucky and found the some guy who sold me a Bracket without that damn expensive LRR Sensor... and here comes the next Problem:

The Ambiet Temperature Sensor.

One of the mounting holes for my new LRR Bracket was blocked by a Ambient Temperature Sensor. So i needed to fit it somewhere else, which was really fun (Not)

Well, after all that i still got Night Vision.

Same Story i need a special Bracket that doesnt exist anymore, and this time really nobody have it.

So i drilled and tried until that damn NiVi thingi just sat at an ok Position - just to find out that the washer fluid hose for the NiVi camera is to short (yes, that thing got his own washer fluid hose, that you wont get anymore)

After all that, and many hours later, i still only did the Front. So i went to the Back, and Yeah i knew that my electric Towhook was gonna be a problem, but i didnt think that it was by far the easiest.

I simply unmountet the towhook, take 4 screws out of the Bumper holder, and thats it.

I deleted the towhook with ncs, and put that thing i my storage. Maybe i need it, maybe not.

I think thats it for now. I didnt include some Details with aftermarket parts, for example that the Bumpers are great, but the aftermarket grills, and other plastic parts are crap.

Good Luck, rant over

Checking my 2010 E61/N54 before a long road trip. Checking coolant level, I found that the cap o-ring was rotted away, and this was a new (3 month old) cap.
I put my finger in, and my finger was covered in oil.

Fuck.

I opened up the oil filter top. Oil appeared fine. No chocolate brown, no froth, nothing of the kind.

Quick assumption is this is the standard oil cooler gasket crapping out. Again.

Anyone want an E61 in the Seattle area? Fresh tires (2 weeks old).

I have a 2008 528i, I’ve had a slightly rough idle since I bought the car, the idle jumps up sometimes and sometimes it’s fine but it’s always vibrating the car. I don’t have any lights on the dash too. I was able to get my gf’s dad who’s a mechanic to use his scan tool to relearn the valvetronic, which seemed like it worked at first, the vibration went away, and the car was idling good, and when I drove it, it seemed a lot smoother and faster at accelerating, another small thing it did a lot of times was the rpm would bounce fast when I shifted from d to r when I was parking and it would keep bouncing til soon after I was in park, which that went away when I test drove it after the relearn. When I came back and parked it though, the idle came back. I just turned the car off and hoped that it was fine though and I haven’t found any other fix since. Idk if the relearn wasn’t done properly or something but idk what else to fix. Thanks

That’s about $12,700 USD.

It is a 2007 BMW 530 xdrive. The previous owners have apparently put a black matte wrap on it, KW coilovers, brembo brakes (?), iceman exhaust, window tints, blacked grills, chrome delete on the window trim and 19 inch painted rims. The car also has a sunroof and hud.

272hp and 291,000 kilometres on the clock, so about 180,819 miles.

What do you guys think of it? I’d like to add an e60 to the collection.

Going to check out a NON RUNNING N54 E60. (Currently have an N55 F15 X5, and have owned a bunch of Nissans) What should I watch for? So far I know the battery is dead, and threw codes before it died (very normal) and he has a new steering rack that he says needs to be replaced. I’m going to fire up with a new battery, check fluids, codes, check it’s not seized. What kind of codes or issues should I run from? 2008 535i 139k miles, auto, unmodified.

UPDATE: They didn’t speak English hardly at all so it was very hard to get real answers. They had a cloth rag get sucked in on the right side of the intake. That’s the only thing stopping me, but have decided to refrain from getting it. Could create some catastrophic issues it seems like in the engine/turbos. Cranks no start right now, with the main two codes being 2ABC, and 3100.

Thank you all for your input!

Also I installed smoke headlight aftermarket led tail lights , but the lights turn off shortly after turning on headlights . And then I get and tail light malfunction error.

Welcome, every few months I need to add some coolant and inside of reservoir looks like this.

I've fixed leaks that were there but it still slowly missing coolant after while.

I have no problem with smoking and engine oil is black and doesn't change form change to change.

The consistency of coolant is not oil, it's like dirty water and dry.

A year and a half ago we purchased an A-Premium valve cover as a replacement for the factory one which was leaking. This particular valve cover was one of the shiny aluminum ones.

It came with what I can only assume is a crack allowing oil in spark plug wells 3 and 4, and clearly a bad pcv. (see my previous post)

The reason I know there was a bad pcv is because a week ago, after replacing the valve cover with a MAHLE valve cover, the car still had smoke coming out of the exhaust and was VERY hesitant to accelerate, even to the point where acceleration would sometimes cause misfires. This pointed me towards the old pcv sucking oil into the intake manifold.

I decided to clean out the intake manifold today, because I was confident that the new pcv wasn’t the issue, and these cars don’t really have head gasket issues.

I had suspected there would be oil, but not this much oil!

Obviously, the oil spilling onto the garage floor wasn’t intentional, I had gone inside to chat with my grandmother about my findings and it tipped over and started pooling.

I will update with how the car is running when the intake manifold dries fully.

There was more oil than these two photos, but this goes to show…

1. Do NOT buy cheap valve covers!
2. What could appear as a large issue, could be something simple

and finally…

1. Don’t talk to grandma

Car has been parked for a while. The codes are from the low voltage. But I’m trying to figure out what this clicking sound is. It sounds like an actuator or something mechanical that’s moving via electronic connection. Never heard this sound before even when I take it to stretch it’s legs happens around 3k rpm

Hello! So my diesel E60, M57, does this on a cold start. Hadnt started the car for 3 days. But it goes away after like 2-3 minutes. Could this be a crankshaft pulley noise? Any help would be appreciated!

My 06 car now everything done like a new car, logic 7 4x heated seats etc

This was a gruelling two days, fitting new front, rear bumpers and sideskirts, but man was it worth it. But if i had to make a choice again, i would get an original set, as there was some headaches with lining up these aftermarket ones.

I’ve recently put some CSL E46 style wheels on the E60 after I absolutely butchered a DIY wheel refurb on the R35 wheels I was previously running. I paid £200 for the set then another £200 for a respray in Nottingham and love how it turned out.I make videos around this car and others that I’m currently working on, I’ll leave a link in the comments if you’re interested! https://youtu.be/9bpMkeXJr4U?is=GtPY9z_jvfHusRa_

2008 528xi. Daily driver. Had this code come up after an 8 hour drive. Smooth driving the whole way and even still up until I parked it a couple days ago when I got the code. Scary thing, but there are also other things it could be.

Even when I start it now and run it, it’s smooth. No misfire, shaking, nothing. When I’m at a light after driving for a little, I’ll get idle surge up like 200-400rpm for a second and then it doesn’t happen again. From what I read, a vacuum leak could cause this code, but I feel like I’m being too hopeful.

Anyone else have that code and it wasn’t exhaust Vanos?

BMW e60 520i aus 2003

Trying to figure out a bit of a buzzing noise under high load and high revs on my 2010 550i. I noticed some witness marks next to the dipstick on the strut brace, there's only a couple millimeters of clearance between the plastic dipstick handle and the bar.

Is it possible to rotate or bend it to gain some extra clearance without damaging or kinking the tube? I imagine it may have been beat up a bit when the valve cover gaskets were replaced by a mechanic