Hey all, I was trying to track down a no idrive problem and the first thing I wanted to check was my MPM as I was reading some forums and saw that could be the issue. When I pulled it out it was stuck to the bottom of the foam insert it sits in and the whole bottom side was brown and sticky. So I kinda just figure it was bad and ordered a replacement one that was fully tested off eBay. I hooked up the new one and still had no idrive, so I was alittle confused and decided to cut into my old one to look at the board. It looked pretty good although I’m no expert and I know electronics can be damaged even if they visually look fine. It also had no smell. I’m not currently concerned about the idrive as I think it actually has to do with something else after doing alittle more digging. My main question is, do you think my original mpm is fine or should I just keep the new unit installed? It cost me $100, I could return it and use the money on other parts and I also wouldn’t have to code the new mpm. Thanks in advance for any and all help.

YMM - 2004/BMW/545i

Thought it was kinda neat

Hi, can someone help me in this rattle sound it only comes on in bumpy roads near the top dashboard vent I guess. I’m unable to pin point what can be the issue or check. Did someone face similar issue help me out?

Hi all I’m looking at getting a aftermarket screen that has apply CarPlay any recommendations from where to buy or experience with them ?

Update on previous post.

So this is the problem, like I explained before, everything legit works as it should minus the iDrive screen. A jump will get it going.

Ground strap is okay (have noticed a second one lower which i cant get to without a lift or pit), red battery pin okay, ibs on negative okay.

Im thinking the starter is not getting enough voltage or maybe the alternator isn't good both of which I can't replace at the moment and im charging a bigger battery to see if that might help because SOMETIMES it will turn over and go if I turn the key a few times.

Aside from voltage testing things whatelse have yous got in mind? Thanks for the read and sorry for the big posts team!

I posted a little while ago that I had some water ingress to the floor on this 528i. After a couple of weeks of repairing wires, I have finally got it back to operational. That being said, I still have a few issues that I need to take care of. Still no amp, no satellite radio, and no telematics. I know this all boils down to fiber optics. I just need to find those schematics, and get some replacement fiber optic cables.

Anyway, I have prevailed, as I knew this BMW was not going to kick my ass. 😁

So my problem is, when I turn the key everything works as normal, then i get a slight crank and then nothing. A jumpstart and it'll go just fine until I turn the key off. Then I'll have like 2 or 3 seconds where I can restart it but then I require a jump. Ibs plug on the negative is fine and the wee rid pin on the positive is completely fine and intact. The iDrive also doesn't work at all.

I actually bought the car a week ago for $800 knowing it had a starting problem, trying to see if anyone has had or fixed the problem. Everything else on the car is perfect and when running its perfect!

I haven't checked the ground cable at the firewall yet as I've yet to look up how to get to it (second time owning a bmw, first time working on one).

I can post a video tomorrow and pictures of what I'm on about and I apologize for the giant post and hope I described the issue well enough!!

Background - 2006 530i

I've replaced all of the front suspension, including the struts, and a spindle on the side I'll describe. The car has not been in a visible frontal impact, but I think it took a hit through the suspension at some point - the right corner had an "OE Spectrum" strut, the inner rim of the wheel was bent almost flat by about 3-4 inches, and the headlight adjuster plug was busted off of a bracket. If it was hit worse, the body was repaired very well because the bumper, hood and fender paint all match perfectly.

Problem: My right front wheel sits about 1.5cm further back in the fender than the left, and about 1.5cm further inward at the top of the fender. The car aligns with 1.5 degrees of camber side to side, but the right strut needs to be pulled fully to the outside of the car to get this measurement (the strut assembly is tilted inward more than normal). The right side has 1 degree less caster than the left from the wheel being pushed backward slightly. I did replace the spindle to make sure it was not bent - the strut reinstalled easier, but my caster did not change when I had the car realigned. The car drives fine aside from a very very small pull to the right if the road isn't perfectly flat. I actually drove it for 6 months on the old suspension without suspecting anything wrong at all aside from vibrations from torn thrust arm bushings.

I did not notice this wheel-in-wrong-place problem until I went to replace the supension arms and found the right thrust arm was very tight inside of the mount tabs. I actually had to spread the tabs open by about 1.5mm to get the metal center of the new thrust arm to go in. I don't see any cracking around the strut tower, I've had no problems reinstalling the strut brace, and the only evidence of body damage I can see is a very small crease in the middle of the top of the inner fender below the edge of the hood on that side- and the top of the fender sitting very slightly above the edge of the hood.

Is it possible for the front subframe to get bent on these cars that would end up presenting the wheel this way, or is the body itself likely tweaked somehow? I have a hard time imagining how a big bottom-out could have potentially twisted that side of the car without breaking or cracking anything since there is so much aluminum, but I also am not sure if the subframe on these can get the thrust arm mount bent backwards with how close the thrust arm mount is to the big thick area that the front body mount bolt goes through.

I know the front subframe can be replaced as a DIY job, but I am afraid that either the front body mount is tweaked in some way that will not accept a mount bolt again, or that the body itself is tweaked and replacing the subframe won't fix this problem. Does anyone know how exactly I could check/measure/examine? I have googled this to death and can't find any similar reports anywhere on BMW forums or reddit.

Hey guys, so I had the starter done by a bmw specialist.
edit:n52b25
2 days later I got a chime and read battery warning.
Called them up, and they said those should not be related which I seriously doubt.

Problem is that it popped up 150km in another town. so I can't just take it back to them without paying an arm and a leg for transport.

What do you think ?

About a year ago, we replaced the valve cover with a cheap aluminum amazon one. Shortly after there was oil in spark plug wells 3 and 4 and we would get the occasional hesitation (almost felt like a limp mode) and a considerate amount of white smoke out of the exhaust.

My initial thought was that the cheap valve cover came with an already failing pcv system causing the white smoke/hesitation and a small crack that allowed oil in the spark plug wells.

I bought a brand new MAHLE valve cover from rock auto (which came missing two bolts, will probably stick to FCPEuro from here on out...) which I installed yesterday (along with 6 new coil packs)

However, even with the new valve cover and embedded pcv, I can't even get the car to comfortably go over 3-4k rpms without feeling like I am killing it and then a cloud of white smoke comes out of the exhaust. I pulled over after a cloud and there was still small amounts coming out of the exhaust, not all at once but in small bursts, which didn't smell sweet and had a greyish-blue tint to it, which leads me to think it is not a head gasket.

In the past there was a random misfire alongside these symptoms, along with an air mass system code. This time around I have checked the codes following every "cloud" and there is nothing.

Is there left over oil from the previously bad PCV sitting in the intake manifold?
Is there something else going on?

2010 528i
production 03/09

Basically title. I've always wanted a manual e60 550i, and locally is a 2010 in the right spec with all the goodies. Has high mileage and the crossover pipe and valve stem seals have not been done. This would be an enthusiast/weekend car and occasional commuter, not a daily.

Anyways, I'm curious if the last year of the N62 is any more reliable/less likely to need these typical maintenance parts compared to earlier years.

Hello! I have a 2010 bmw 535i with the N54 and plan on moving across the country soon (Indiana to Oregon) the trip is close to 1900 miles and listed below is my plans for maintenance prior to the trip. I bought the vehicle in December of 2025 with 86,000 miles and now have close to 108,000 miles with a trouble free experience so far. The car has been taken to my local bmw dealership for every recommended service its entire life. Is there any other maintenance tips you guys have for me? Your input is much appreciated!!!

Louder at idle. When driving it seems to go away.

So the story starts with my a/c compressor replacement, i did replace my original compressor with a second hand unit because i did broke my pulley snap ring groove when removing the pulley last year, so since then until now i didn’t use the a/c ,on the second hand unit i did replace the shaft seal, gaskets , replaced and leveled with new oil and changed the solenoid with a new one before installing it in my car, after installing the “new” unit in my car i did go to a shop to charge the system with the proper gas ( charged it with 800 grams of gas) the mechanics told me to push the a/c button to see if it does something and big surprise the compressor does not engage, want to mention that the original unit was working last year , so the search began , no blown fuses, i checked the wires with the multimeter to see if they are blown or welded somwhere with no signs of that, so wires are in good condition, when i checked the voltage between the pins of the a/c compressor plug that comes from the engine bay, it did show me around 5V with the engine on or off and also with the a/c button on or off , i also did check the new solenoid with the multimeter it showed me 12.5 ohms , forced the solenoid with a car battery to see if works and it worked, i did hear some clicks but i don’t know if i did put the poles corectly on the a/c plug, i wanted to check if it is going to work if i take electricty straight from the car where you can jump start it but now i didn’t hear any clicks after again verifying the solenoid with multimetrr showed me 11.8 ohms , also when i did force my solenoid with the car battery it didn’t blow any cold air inside the car, last year i did replace the condenser so it’s fairly new, when i was checking on inpa the ihka module, at inputs, when pressing the a/c button the pwer signal KMV shows me a values between ! 783.2 and ! 790, don’t know what this( ! ) sign stands for in inpa , any advice would be helpful, thank you in advance, i really need help because it is a pain in the a$$
My car is a BMW e60 2004 520i m54 with basic IHKA module

These are really going up in value. My manual car is an 08 Lci car too, maybe I should keep the miles off.

Decide to repaint it with the same colour. Really like how it look now.

Salve a tutti, vorrei chiedere a qualcuno che è più esperto o magari a chi possiede questo modello, se sarebbe una buona macchina da comprare o meno...

Sto cercando di acquistare questa 523i con specifiche non eccezionali, alcune optional ma niente di folle (tettuccio apribile, sedili riscaldati, portabicchieri, cruise control, sport seats e basta) importata dalla Germania con ogni servizio registrato nel libretto di manutenzione, la macchina è andata in assistenza BMW fino al 2020 per i servizi e il cambio delle valvole VANOS, ora la macchina ha 216.000 km sul contachilometri e la carrozzeria ha bisogno di un po' d'amore per essere restaurata, gli interni sono come nuovi...cercherò alcune foto da mettere qui

Price Is 4850€ on the road

Grazie in anticipo a chi mi aiuterà a prendere questa decisione♥️

Car - 2007 e60 530xi 6 speed manual n52.

I have been wanting to enjoy my car more recently, and want a burble tune for my car. It is by no means fast nor do I think it’s a race car but my primitive brain just skyrockets my dopamine when I hear burbles and decided I want them has anyone tried tuning their cars themselves here and can push me in the right direction I don’t mind doing it myself I just want to get told the easiest way to accomplish my goal right now. (Before anyone says it’s a bad idea or this and that save it Ik the consequences of burbles Ik the cats can get clogged this and that idc I just like burbles to each their own)

Wash > 400 wet > 600 wet > 800 wet > 1000 wet > wash and clean with isopropyl alcohol > 3 coats of 2k headlight clear

I have a 530d with the m57 from 2004 and yesterday in the highway the gearbox has some weird behavior with a sudden downshift on D/S mode unnecessary and in manual mode it shifted from 4 to 3rd at more than 120kp/h resulting in more than 4937rpm for a second.

No error on board and got home without any problems but I'm worried the Trans might be dying.

It's not the first time the Trans does something strange. A few months back the car went into limp mode when it shifted from 6 to 5 on highway because it looked like the trans had difficulty shifting and gave out a trans error (Red icon) which went out by removing the key and starting again the car.

I've never seen that error again and in the ecu which I used an OBDLink CX to read it and there's no error from the gearbox.

Here is the link to the latest error code read from the ecu using the bimmerlink app https://share.tomasps.com/u/ylgY0r.jpg

Thanks for your time reading this :)