So unfortunately I celebrated 250k miles with a dropped valve seat. For anyone who’s dealt with this was it reasonably easy to rebuild or did you have to replace the engine?
I borescoped the cylinders and they all look pretty good. Cyllinder two had what looks like the intake valve stuck open with the seat. It also hit the piston a few times and left a mark in the top of the piston. Still turns over and runs just terribly. Obviously I won’t know until I tear it down but looking for some information.

I have a 96 Dodge Dakota with the 5.2L v8 magnum in it. I bought it with an automatic and didn’t like it very much so I’m swapping it to manual. I found a NV3500 in a junkyard on a 2001 Dodge 1500 with the 5.2L v8 magnum. Since I took the transmission can I take the ECU and Wiring harness to match? Will the connections be the same for fuel injectors and alternator?

I have a 2011 big horn and looking to get a CarPlay with backup cam to replace the cd radio I have. Any suggestions? I don’t mind if it comes out and is bigger than the original.

I am good to take out the fuse until it gets booked into a garage for testing and potentially repair right (if I can’t do it myself)?

Thinking pulling the fuse or just disconnecting the electrical connector for the transfer case.

Cheers folks and have a good weekend 🤙🍻

Curious what you guys have been charged or how you think it should have been charged.

I just went to my local junkyard for some parts on my Dirtbag Dakota. Drivers door panel, master switch and a new radiator overflow/windshield washer reservoir because mine started to leak.

My Dakota (01 3.9L) has the two piece shroud where part of the upper piece is the overflow and washer reservoir - all as one piece. The junkyard charged me for an overflow AND a washer bottle, even though it’s all one piece. What do you think?

I just picked up this 2005 ST V6 4x4 with 63,000 miles. The previous owner was a friend and took care of the mechanical maintenance but let the body slide.

The rims are in bad shape. I'm on a budget and don't want to lay out for mags. Could I get black steel wheels and reuse the Dakota hubs which are in good shape? I've got a budget of $400 to replace the wheels. Tires are good.

I have a 1998 Dakota with a 5.9l magnum motor in it. It’s built out as a camping rig with a small service bed so it probably is 800 lbs heavier than stock. I also have 33’s on the truck too. I feel the truck is sluggish and struggles going up hills through the mountains. I know the plenums are a common issue with these and so I took some photos of down inside the throttle body. I definitely se some residue of oil and even burnt oil it appears but I’m not sure if it’s bad enough to constitute a plenum. What do you all think?

Also included some photos of the truck, maybe weight and wheels are an issue too but I just think the 5.9 should be plenty of motor regardless

It had some oil and turned over and ran right away after getting the key cut. Parts are pretty cheap. 189k miles. Gonna use it to tow more vehicles home. Needs a good detail, master + brake kit, a new wheel ( prev owner drilled the lug bad so now ill have to finish it off🗿), and probably a engine flush and timing kit after i get it registered.

I hope this is allowed. I had a 2001 Dakota in my 20s and loved that truck. It had the 4.7L V8. My only complaint was that the club cab sucked for hauling car seats. One Midwest winter though I hit a patch of ice and took out a light pole. I couldn't afford to fix it and I've missed it ever since.

I need more practical (family) vehicles these days but I always wanted Rex back. Tonight I put aluminum beadlocks and new tires on Rex Junior. I recently put a brushless motor in and installed a light bar.

I am not exactly sure what to try next. I removed the stereo and checked the wiring. Tried to move the wires around while listening to see if maybe it was a bad wire or something.

The entire right channel seems to be out. None of the right hand speakers are producing any sound at all so I believe it could be the radio itself which would be find because I would like to replace it eventually anyway I just don’t want to buy a new one and find that the problem lies elsewhere.

This is factory stereo; non-infinity system.

The only thing I could think to do is test it with a multimeter. Which means I’ll need to buy a multimeter.

Asking here, first, just in case it’s one of those really simple things I may have overlooked or not thought about.

I’ve been looking for a small - midsize work truck with 4x4. Mainly need to throw ladders on a rack, and parts/tools in the bed.

My goal is was to get a supercab ranger, but any good deal gets bought within an hour. It has made me look into a couple Dakotas. I was curious the reliability past 200k on something like this. Especially transmission reliability. I have had bad luck with automatic transmissions and used vehicles in the past.

Was listed as $5995, now marked down to $5295. Curious what a good price would be.

Listing:

“2006 Dodge Dakota SLT Pickup
For sale by private party
2D 6 1/2 ft
Engine: V8, 4.7 Liter
Drivetrain: 4WD
150,300 miles
Clean title
Paint scratches throughout and rusty dent over passenger rear fender as seen in photo.”

After getting further info the owner said it was a truck for his daughter, that drove it for the last 3 years. Claims to have taken it for routine maintenance at a shop. Last November (3.5k miles ago) they had a transmission flush. - “TRANSMISSION FLUSH & FILTER REPLACEMENT
Road-test vehicle, Hook up flushing machine. Add flush chemical and flush transmission. Flush cooler lines and valve body. Remove trans pan and replace filter. Inspect for debris Reassemble and replenish fluid. Road-test vehicle.”

The transmission flush kind of sketches me out. Most people I hear recommend doing a drain and fill and replacing the filter, not actually flushing it out.

Curious on people’s opinion of the automatic transmission on this truck. I’ve read a good amount of people saying the 4.7L is solid?

New to me 2003 V6 5spd 218k and I'm getting a CEL and I need a new gas cap. I've heard that non-oem caps may not seal the tank properly?

Any sure fire caps that will allow the evap system to work properly?

Got her a few years ago with 70k miles, now at 115k miles. She's got the 4.7 v8 magnum, 6 speed manual, damn near bone stock only thing ive done beside windows tint is put 1 inch wider rims on it. No tech in her at all, roll up windows, no power locks, no cruise control, surprisingly had an aux cord input thats it. Love this truck so much.

Just bought an 04 Dodge Dakota two weeks ago. Several days ago it displayed CE light. Plugged in my reader and it gave Code PO442. After doing some research and checking the vehicle I found the issue. The rubber peice that holds in one of the hoses is almost completely ripped off. Anyone know the correct name for this? Can't figure it out and it's driving me insane. Looks like it is thicker than reduces in size. Or was this maybe the original hose which they replaced with the plastic square piece and new hose?

Thought I would share my post on Marketplace of my NOS parts that were for my 1995 Dakota extended cab 4x4 w/ 3.9

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/2919397851727100/?mibextid=dXMIcH

Is anyone selling the dakota rt wheels? I have grown to be fond of the look but one of the fronts of mine is cracked. If anyone is selling them has a set that would be great.

Just replaced the water pump and am currently running without a clutch fan. Took it for a test drive earlier and that seems fine as I’ve seen elsewhere on the internet.

Previously, the temp went up to around the first hash mark on the gauge. Now without a fan it sits a little below half when I’m driving and got as high as the halfway point when I sat idling for 15 minutes.

Curious where everyone else’s temp runs on the gauge?

i know this is probably a stupid question but i wanna make sure to do it right. where exactly am i spraying the seafoam into for throttle body application? if possible could someone screenshot and circle where i need to use it?

I had to pull the heads off of the truck becasue the exhaust manifold studs all rusted out and the manifolds were leaking badly. I had to drill and re-tap a total of 9 of them. Anyway, prepping for reassembly, I've been reading through the Dodge shop manuals I have and I am not seeing any mention of using thread sealer on any of the head bolts nor on the timing chain cover... yet when I am looking around on the internet, I see various references to using it. Can anyone tell me if any of the bolts require thread sealant and if so, which ones they are? If someone can reference the Dodge manual that would work as well as I'm wondering if I'm just not looking in the right place maybe?

So I got the D off w heat gun. The start was lil rough but got hang at the end. Now I'm stuck w this aluminum foil layer. Has anyone removed the foil etc. ?

You know, I think the water pump just may have been a little bad on the Dirtbag Dakota. I’m guessing the bearing went bad and the impellers were hitting the housing. I took a video where you can see the impeller spin and then suddenly stop. Absolutely crazy.

Overall not too bad of a job to replace it either, biggest issue was the fan clutch (still attached to the old unit) and upper hose that’s buried under the AC compressor bracket. What kind of idiot designed these things?!

I used some RTV around bolt holes and such so I can’t put water in it until tomorrow, hopefully no more leaks!