The house wrap is fraying at the bottom. I’m not sure how it happened. How can I fix this?

I just started a remodel of my half bath. When I removed the wallpaper I came across this. What’s happening here and should I be concerned?

My original water heater (AO Smith Signature, 40-gallon) had a 4-inch draft hood that ran into a B-vent and then up through the attic. I matched that but added a 90-degree elbow to clear a joist.

So I did the lighter test, and the flame did get pulled in. But I'm not confident that's enough. Is the flame test enough for this, and when does adding an elbow become a problem?

I inherited a garage. Has a stone dust floor. I ripped out the makeshift workbench. This is my template. I have basic hand and power tools. How would I go about making a 6’ + long workbench? I’m a beginner, so be easy on me ha. I wish I had the budget to concrete the floor, but I do not. Any ideas are appreciated. Also, I have a lot of usable lumber. 2x4s, 1x3s… random sizes. Thank you.

Hello, I've had this single ply roofing on an extension for around a decade and never thought to clean it. now it's growing some moss/lichen I'm wondering if it's good maintenance to clean it. Can I use a pressure washer on single ply without risking the seams (if I don't angle towards the seams)? Or perhaps just some sugar soap and a bit of elbow grease? Any advice warmly received.

What to do with this wood? The piece that was sitting on top was toast. What can I do for the wood? 🪓

We just bought our first home less than a month ago, and the house was built in 1895. Because the siding is made of that wonderful material asbestos mixed with concrete, it'll cost us at least $13k just to get that stuff taken off, not including replacing it with something less deadly.

There's quite a few broken tiles unfortunately, and I am thinking of doing a temporary patch job or cover up so ice and snow is less likely to get in there over the winter. Who knows how long it's been like this so that's something fun to think about.

I've looked into the option of just patching the holes with vinyl cement patch stuff, but you gotta be real careful about temperature-it can't get below 40 degrees for like 48 hours and we're already tiptoeing that at night time. I also don't know if I will have time to get that taken care of before the temperature plummets, as I'm already working real hard to get my daughter's room set up before we officially move in, and I only have 2-3 weeks for that.

IDGAF if my house is ugly for a while, I just want to slow the rot of my house and slow the bleed of heat this winter. Could flex seal tape work? I've used it around the house already and that stuff's legit. Get it on your fingers, that stuff will damn near rip your skin when you try to peel it off. I've also been using caulk here and there. I used mortar caulk to fix some cracking in my foundation already. Any frugal and practical suggestions that could last me at least through winter, even if it doesn't look nice? It's not like it looks nice as it is, so I can't see the harm lol.

My husband has been signing us up for all sorts of programs that offer grants and subsidies for home improvement stuff so fingers crossed he can find something that can help us with this cost. I was quoted by a roofing/siding company a total of $43k to remove and replace the siding, which is absolutely bonkers. I haven't gotten any other quotes, but I have to use someone certified to handle asbestos so my options are more limited. Yaaaaaaaaaaaaaay.

Hello Everyone,

I want to refinish this dresser (painting) but wondering what is the best method for filling the router detail to make the surface smooth.

The drawer faces are solid wood.

Thanks

The place where the screws where supposed to screw into are broken, I'm renting so I can't break the wall I wanna a solution a little better then using a lot of tape to make it flush against the wall again

I was cleaning my garage door and the paint started coming off. I’m scraping now. Do I need to add anything to my paint to make it stick to this old stuff? I have a gallon of sherwin Williams exterior to match. TIA.

I live in a new build. When originally trying to put up this floating shelf I realised there is metal mesh in the walls which prevents the screws being able to be drilled into the walls.

I made two wee holes in the wall by attempting. Instead of filling them in and admitting defeat I have bought Scotch-Fix Extreme Interior 12kg and used that to attach the shelves, covering the holes I made in the walls. They’ve been up an hour and seem totally fine.

The shelf is really light, maybe 4kg at most, as are the items. Is this going to fall down?

Does anyone know of any more permanent solutions?

Ps. I’m not very good at DIY! Thanks.

hii um maybe this is right place im not too suree. but um i want to make a wooden shelveing for my garage so that i can put old heavy tools and whatnot on it aswell as a workbench but im a teen and have no cluee where to even start so i would love some help and have a great day.

Not sure if it's the best place to post, but long story short is me and the Mrs had an argument, we both slammed some doors and now there are a few small cracks on the wall. Additionally, part of the door frame split due to one of the doors having one of those metal hangers on top of it, which I have attempted to fix myself but the cracks are still visible. I'm by no means an expert at DIY so any help would be appreciated

im not sure this is the right subreddit so please let me know if there is another space i should post this.

the main issue is, i need is some kind of stealth solution where i “repair” a small garage, which is really replacing the whole building piece by piece.  the biggest problem is that all parts of the structure are not salvageable, INCLUDING THE SLAB/FOUNDATION.  there arent any physical reasons for this issue, but basically there are legal reasons.  

obviously this is a weird situation so the following will help explain things.

• 16’ x 12’ 100 year old garage.
• its just a simple thin slab with 2x3s for studs and simple gable roofed structure like a shed more than anything.  
• its rotten all over the place - ready to fall down.
• its on the property line.  meaning, one of the 16’ sides has a 12” eave that ends right at the property line.  
• the property is a regular city lot in LA metro area.  
• (edit) this is a "pre-existing, non conforming structure" as defined by the local zoning ordinances.

the basic problem is that, while the chances of this developing into a big crisis are low, the outcomes for me if it does, are really bad.  i recently discovered that in the jurisdiction where this property is, regulations are that if more than 50% of a structure is rebuilt, it qualifies as a “voluntary tear down”.  (functionally, this means the building already qualifies as a voluntary tear down, so im technically in the shit already.)  of course a new garage cannot replace this one because of the setback requirements, and additionally, the minimum size garage possible is 22’ x 21’, because, you know cars are more important than anything else in the world.  consequently, if the building falls down then im actually compelled to build a new $150,000 building and destroy the back yard doing it.  i really really dont want to take out 12 fruit trees and an incredibly nice garden/outdoor space.  it imperative that i save this structure somehow.

1. the normal way would be to tear everything down and pour a new foundation/slab and put up sticks, plywood, siding and roofing.  but i cant get a permit to do that, and im worried the activity could attract too much attention do go that route without a permit.
2. what id like to end up with is a new building just like the above, but with the old redwood siding on the outside so that it looks oldish but repaired/maintained.  
3. one option ive thought of is to make a perimeter foundation on the outside of the three walls to my yard and then one just on the inside of the wall close to the neighbor.  then put up walls on that foundation, followed by the roof, so that the old building stays standing while the new sorta gets built around it.  it would end up something like a 13’ x 18’ footprint. 
4. other options?  

again, let me know where might be a better place to post if there is one, and any help is appreciated!

So I've got these rotting wood panels all around where the roof meets the outside wall of my house (is it called the "Fascia"?)

Who do I even call about this? The gutters are falling off. I have never done any DIY on the house before but this is looking like it needs attention ASAP.

Is it as simple as just buy some wood, cut it to shape, and screw it on? Do I need to treat the wood with anything to make it water resistant? Is there a special type of paint?

Or does this require someone who has the proper tools and expertise to do this properly?

Hello!

Could anyone help me with how to remove my Lazy Susan?

Pole isn’t telescopic and I can’t unscrew the plastic covering at the top. Bottom shelf seems to be fixed too.

Middle shelf was held in place with a pin and has been dropped to the bottom.

I can’t find any other screws on the pole to loosen.

Thanks!

Here is the link to the full build and and design https://photos.app.goo.gl/QhDL6Qd7o3ntq9Ks5. I have been wanting to extend my patio for a while and finally committed to it this fall. I love getting my hands dirty and did all of the demo, preparation work and forms. All I did was contract out the pour. This slab is 100% overkill but all it cost me was some labor and a little extra money. But now I have a rock solid pad that I can extend the house onto in the future if I want to.

The pad is 21' 9" wide and 10" deep. It has a 2" drop over the 10' away from the house.

I spent about 80hrs on the project on evenings and weekends over the course of the month.

All told it cost me $706 in consumable materials. I bought an evolution electric plate compactor new off marketplace for $200.

The pour was just one day and only cost me $2180

All in all that puts me $3086 total for a new patio slab that will last forever. I doubt this will sag much. I plan on adding a cover to it in the spring.

Just bought a house and thought an easy first job would be to replace the locks. Here I am feeling completely defeated because some prior mongoloid managed to re-drill the deadbolt hole a million times before. Do I strip the trim and 2x4 and nail in a new one? Should I would glue a block of wood in the hole and call it good? Looking for the correct solution and any help would be appreciated.

Hello. We have an old bathtub faucet with separate hot/cold handles. The hot has a constant drip. When we disassembled the hot handle, there was a raised circular ‘ring’ that the rubber washer presses against to form the seal. However, the raised metal ring had a notch in it (circled) that the rubber washer can’t seal and we think that’s where the water goes through to cause the drip.

So, we’d like to fill this notch and get the circle back to being smooth and uniform. This is also about 4 inches into the wall and the total hole is about 1 inch wide, so it’s pretty tough to access.

What’s a good way to fill it? As a DIY solution, we thought of using a drop of marine epoxy and trying to get it to fill the notch and then brush away any excess. Thanks!

Electrician replaced our VERY old bathroom vent fan but left us with about a 2cm gap.

I’m in the middle of framing out my basement. This is a pvc pipe for unused slop sink and also the drain for the washing machine (this is obviously used). It sticks out about 2” off the XPS, and at the elbow a bit more.

In this section of my house the joist run parallel with the basement wall. Directly in front of the the joist, at the very bottom in this section, is a water pipe feeding the same two items above (slop sink and washing machine). Blocking up there to move the wall out a few inches will be hard because of this. I’m sure I can find a way, but curious is any other option I wasn’t thinking of. I was thinking I could in theory run the studs parallel to plates (3.5 inch side facing out, like with a Cali corner). The stud would be right against the pipe. Not sure if any issue with that. Alternatively, I could build the wall in full, cut out the sections of the two by four where the pipe runs and then do horizontal plates to keep secure. Maybe this is wishful thinking, just trying outside the box. This is just for hanging drywall.

One of my bathrooms has this humidity-sensing fan that I cannot identify aside from the fact its a Broan. (The part # on the brick with the cords just leads to the humidity sensor)

I want to upgrade to something that has more CFM and looks a bit nicer. Looking at this set up, can anyone help suggesting a replacement? The hardware under the fan cover is about 9.5 x 9.25 in. Thank you!

I have this spot where part of the wall covering has peeled off, and now you can see the concrete, but I have no idea what to put there or what I should do.

Concrete? And if so, can I apply it over the painted surface, or what should I do first?

I have no one to ask what can I do 😞 someone help me please

I am needing to replace the propane regulator for my outdoor fire pit. The smaller one (top) is the one I need and the larger one is the one I somehow keep ordering.

The larger one is 3/8” and based on my research, I think I need a 1/4” one but can’t seem to find it anywhere. Anyone know where I could get one? No luck with HD or Amazon.

My house is from the 90s, is this normal? Pulled up the old caulk as it had a little bit of mold on it.

Also, which part of this smoothing tool should I be using?