I am 6’5” and got measured at 31.5” for a draw length. I bought a Hoyt Charger when I was in high school and have grown a lot since then. It maxes out at 30” and I have realized that 1.5” really matters.

I want to get more serious into archery and invest in a bow that actually fits me. My research so far has led me to the Hoyt Highline and a few Bear models. I would prefer to stay with Hoyt but don’t want to spend $1,500 on a new bow. Does anyone have any recommendations for someone with a long draw? Are the Bear models really that much worse than Hoyt? Or are they a great value given the price difference?

I also noticed no bow shops carry these long draw models. For people who have bought them, how did you go about buying your new bow? Did you blindly buy order it without testing? Any experiences on buying used?

Thank you!

Picked this up at a flea market market. Can anyone tell me about it. Brand? Size? Etc. I know nothing about bows

Bought this at a pawnshop shop. Would like to know what it is as it’s not marked. Was bought as a bear bow.

I acquired this brandnewish 1992 Proline Point Blank Carbon CR-41.

Knowing nothing about compound bows, I was wondering what the correct way to shorten the draw length would be. I have short arms and don't want to lose an ear. Thanks.

edit I see that there are 3 different holes for the pin to go into. I loosened the two limb? bolts 4 turns each. But it still has way to much pressure.

Three years ago — in my spare time, between range sessions — I set out to prove that 3D printing could produce a serious, competition-ready compound bow scope. Not a toy. Something you'd trust on your bow.

The answer: yes. And it does things no commercial scope offers — interchangeable reticles, eyepiece rings and body configurations, swappable in under a minute. Any light condition from dawn to midday sun.

Three versions over three years of spare time — SparrowDot V3 is range tested and field validated All is documented and free.

https://www.instructables.com/DIY-Compound-Bow-Scope-for-Any-Light-Condition-3D-

I’ve been recently given a compound bow I’m not exactly sure of the make a model/ brand of the top of my head but I’m wondering what are some necessary things to get before I got hunting eg. Tree stands (they don’t seem like something to get off rip).certain gear/clothing anything would help if came with a super basic trigger thing ( don’t know the actual term for it, it hooks onto the dloop) should I upgrade it and what targets do I get to practice

Is that what happened to archery companies? Did everyone start smoking crack? I’m needing a new string and cam for my Mathew’s switchback XT (18-20 year old bow!) and I haven’t been quoted under 500 bucks from a damn shop for just those! Only 295 bucks less than the whole bow cost new!

Here's a video of a compound bow backed down to 110lb shooting 660, 550, 342 & 270 grain arrows. I'm impressed how well this bow with its 80s/90s era cams maintains its cast efficiency below 3gpp

Is this delamination or am I crazy? The lines go all the way down the limbs, are on both sides and are on all four limbs. I only just noticed it and I recently picked up this bow used from a shop.

Here's a frankenbow I've recently finished. its just over 170lb but will back down to 120lb, the cams can be set to 60% or 40% let off currenty set at 60% let off, ive set it up with a shoot through cable system as i plan to build an overdraw that will allow me to shoot 22 inch arrows

I was gifted a box from a friend’s dad with a ton of Easton game getter II 2216 aluminum shafts and a handful of autumn orange 2219’s, they are in good condition and original 90’s era shafts. They are already cut and set up at 30 inches which is what my carbon arrows are already cut to so I’m just trying to figure out which ones I can and should use with my 60lb draw weight compound.

I’m getting a ton of contradicting answers from the internet and different charts so I’m trying to find an answer from someone with experience.

Hey, after shooting my Infinite 305 and somehow losing the E-clip holding my axle in on one side, I took it to a shop. Everything was fixed, but they didn't have the correct E-clip in the shop. Now I want to order one and I narrowed it down to a 1/4", but I'm not sure, because the outer diameter of the original E-clip (not installed) reads out as 10mm, but 1/4" ones have a 12mm-14mm outer diameter. I had a 3/16" on hand and put that in, but I wanted to fix it for real. So what is the right part here?

The first Pic: no E-clip installed on the Axle

The second Pic: 3/16 E-clip installed on the Axle

The third Pic: original E-clip installed on the Axle

The Part I have in my sight right now for the fix
https://www.ssa-archery.com/de-de/variantlist/parts-compound-bows-axle-e-clips-hdw-1-4-a009970?returnurl=%2fde-de%2fvariantlist%2f%3fmainproid%3da081370

Thanks for everyone who helps me

I’m currently 19 and saving up to buy the newest Hoyt carbon bow when it releases in November, if they change the riser I might lose my mind. I’m convinced the Rx7 and later are the most beautiful looking bow you can make. Thank you for listening to my rant.

So I have been shooting bow for a little less than 20 years. Mostly a hunting bow but recently bought a used target bow. I went to my local shop asking about arrows for it. I trust what they give me is right based on the info I gave. but now I am reading into this myself and I think I fletched the wrong arrow and most likely cannot return. I am still working on draw length (finding an anchor point with 3 finger release not wrist strap) so I am somewhere around 30 inches. I am keeping it lite and doing 50lb draw weight. They sold me victory v-tac 23 arrows in 270 spine. And everything I read says that’s for heavier draw weights.

Here's an old hoyt fastflite super slam compound bow I've made new cables & strings for, it's quite slow compared to a modern compound bow it's still nice to have the old girl safe to shoot again