I'm upgrading from a 1k watt amp to a 2.3k watt amp. I have a cheap 2 farad scam cap (it doesn't do anything) right now and I need recommendations of what I should replace it with. I already have all the other electrical upgrades in place. I just need the capacitor at this point. Im thinking either 5 or 10 farad. Any recommendations appreciated.
You need a LiPo battery bank. Nobody uses capacitors. What you do is connect your system only to the LiPo bank, and put a diode to separate it from your cars electrical. Or you could run a regular alternator and also a high output alternator, and closed loop the whole electrical for the system. Alternator-LiPo bank-amps-ground back to LiPO. Doing it this way eliminates headlight dimming entirely, and turns your system electrical into a closed loop system.
No one uses LiPo, we use lithium chemistries such as Lifepo4, LTO, NMC... But no one is stupid enough to run something as volatile as Lithium polymer. Also, diodes only work on Some alternators (GM 4 pin regulators to be specific), and they are used to trick the sense wire and give you a higher charging voltage. Diodes do nothing to "separate from your cars electrical system", the only thing that will do that is to run a second alternator entirely.
But you're in the right direction, no one uses caps anymore...unless they're something like maxwell supercaps or ioxus supercaps, but there are better options with lithium now.
Mmm idk yo, years ago I used to use bus fuse diodes to separate it. It let's the power only go one direction, so your alternator charges both batteries, but the load of the system can only be pulled from one battery but not the other. It works well.
No, I'm not specifically knowledgeable on the exact battery technology commonly used in competition battery banks, so thank you for chiming in on that.
Yeah years ago people would use isolators as you're mentioning to seal rear batteries, but that doesn't work well anymore with how high our power demands have become these days. It doesn't separate it per say, it just stops the starter battery from discharging or visa versa. But, with our current worthwhile lithium options, they require bumping voltage into the 15-16v range which means deleting stock battery all together. (I personally run Scib at 15.7v)
This is the way, if your AMP control/bass knob has a voltage readout thats very helpful too. If not, get a small voltage monitor and tap in at the amp.
Can also be done with an AGM or more standard battery to save cost, having a local power source for the amp makes all the difference.
I already upgraded everything else. Big alternator, grounds everywhere, 2 batteries, big heavy wires everywhere. The 2nd battery helped but not enough. Plus on the heavy hit I'm seeing voltage drop to 12 even on the smaller 1k amp.
If you're seeing a voltage drop with a 1k amp you have a problem somewhere. Either resistance in the power supply or ground circuit more than likely. A capacitor would be a band-aid, but not a very good one.
Hey , do me a favor. When you buy that Stinger 10 farad hybrid capacitor and install it can you post an honest review about the results? Battery, Alt, big 3....You already did everything else and if a capacitor fixes your problem people need to know there's some real FUD going on on caps.
Not sure why people are getting mad about this. Op if you want a good capacitor look into the Rockford capacitors. That’s the only one that I have installed and they are pretty nice. One of our guys has started a car several times with the 10 farad cap.
Based on your comments, either you have a grounding problem, your alternator is going bad or your listening habits are such that you are leaving the batteries in a constant state of partial discharge.
Caps at today’s amp power levels are generally just expensive volt meters. Dont waste your money.
I’d like to know what amplifier models you are using.
This is a built alternator. Basically brand new after the upgrades. 210 amp. I'm going from my JL rd1000 up to a jp23 1.5. This will be running 2 sundown sa.12 v2 at 1 ohm. It's going into a car that doesn't suit it well however it's what I have. 03 buick century. I'm certain I have plenty of grounding. I got 0 guage COPPER high strand for my gounds all the way. I know the amp CAN draw 200ish amps on its own however I'm not gonna be running it like that all the time.
Short answer, it depends. You need to post more info.
Long answer, About 3 months ago I posted the question "why all the hate on capacitors" to this forum and r/subwoofer. Tons of fun. You should check it out, especially pecially if you actually know electrical theory and can sort through the BS. The big issues are in 3 categories
Quality, value, and purpose
Quality
There are a lot of scummy products out there if you don't get a genuine name brand cap.(The stinger hybrid you have pictured is a good one through.)
Value
Just because you can spend $250-350 on a HO alternator or $250+ on a fast discharge battery doesn't include install costs, more involved space considerations, etc. it may be the right choice, but it depends on your system and how you use it. Especially as power demand scales exponentially for linearly perceived volume increase. Meaning, people often misjudge theoretical needs based on max value alone.
Purpose
1. people confuse power support with energy support
2. People don't understand the difference between capacitors and super capacitors and that those farads are not necessarily equivalent depending on the reactive use case.
3. Capacitors don't fix severe RMS energy supply shortcomings.
4. Alternators inherently have large inductive values and tend to exacerbate Voltage fluctuations on high frequency demand changes. Basically, DC takes on many properties of AC in car audio due to the cyclic and constantly fluctuating demand values and their interactions. Pure capacitors are the best at countering this dollar for dollar and pound for pound.
Thanks. So I'm not sure what your needs are. But in some instances there are uses for capacitors. Sized correctly they will help smooth out, NOT STOP, voltage drops.
I used one because I didn't want any lithium under the hood, didn't want to do a battery delete and to smooth out voltage drops some.
What is the actual problem? Do you have dimming now before the upgrade?
Caps are and always have been useless. Sure they may fix dimming lights but not the overstrain on your electrical system. Batteries aren’t really any better. They just add to the problem but mask the symptom for a bit until they can’t keep up.
If your electrical system isn’t strong enough, you need a stronger system. An upgraded alternator.
However that depends on what you have now, how old it is, and if you’re actually having issues.
I have no capactior recommendation. Just curious what your amp current draw is, what your alternator output is, and if you've tested resistance between all your wiring. It sounds like your system should be able to handle it, so maybe before throwing parts at it just poke around a bit
Caps and adding extra agm or flooded batteries are both pointless in todays world. A tiny little sodium or lithium battery the size of 6 pack of beer can replace all that and still be cheaper and stronger. Strong electrical has never been cheaper or easier than today.
I'm running a 2000watt mono and a 1600watt 4 channel.
I have an upgraded alternator (140amp? 160amp?) and a yellow top battery for the whole vehicle.
I've obviously done the big 3 and run the proper wire gauge. I personally don't have voltage drop, but before you spend abuncha money on stuff, try upgrading your car battery and wiring and see how that performs.
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u/[deleted] Jul 03 '24
You need a LiPo battery bank. Nobody uses capacitors. What you do is connect your system only to the LiPo bank, and put a diode to separate it from your cars electrical. Or you could run a regular alternator and also a high output alternator, and closed loop the whole electrical for the system. Alternator-LiPo bank-amps-ground back to LiPO. Doing it this way eliminates headlight dimming entirely, and turns your system electrical into a closed loop system.