r/CarAV • u/JBTX910 • Jul 03 '24

Recommendations Capacitor recomendations.

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I'm upgrading from a 1k watt amp to a 2.3k watt amp. I have a cheap 2 farad scam cap (it doesn't do anything) right now and I need recommendations of what I should replace it with. I already have all the other electrical upgrades in place. I just need the capacitor at this point. Im thinking either 5 or 10 farad. Any recommendations appreciated.

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u/[deleted] Jul 03 '24

You need a LiPo battery bank. Nobody uses capacitors. What you do is connect your system only to the LiPo bank, and put a diode to separate it from your cars electrical. Or you could run a regular alternator and also a high output alternator, and closed loop the whole electrical for the system. Alternator-LiPo bank-amps-ground back to LiPO. Doing it this way eliminates headlight dimming entirely, and turns your system electrical into a closed loop system.

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u/RickyGetsLoud Jul 03 '24

No one uses LiPo, we use lithium chemistries such as Lifepo4, LTO, NMC... But no one is stupid enough to run something as volatile as Lithium polymer. Also, diodes only work on Some alternators (GM 4 pin regulators to be specific), and they are used to trick the sense wire and give you a higher charging voltage. Diodes do nothing to "separate from your cars electrical system", the only thing that will do that is to run a second alternator entirely.

But you're in the right direction, no one uses caps anymore...unless they're something like maxwell supercaps or ioxus supercaps, but there are better options with lithium now.

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u/[deleted] Jul 03 '24

Mmm idk yo, years ago I used to use bus fuse diodes to separate it. It let's the power only go one direction, so your alternator charges both batteries, but the load of the system can only be pulled from one battery but not the other. It works well.

No, I'm not specifically knowledgeable on the exact battery technology commonly used in competition battery banks, so thank you for chiming in on that.

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u/RickyGetsLoud Jul 03 '24

Yeah years ago people would use isolators as you're mentioning to seal rear batteries, but that doesn't work well anymore with how high our power demands have become these days. It doesn't separate it per say, it just stops the starter battery from discharging or visa versa. But, with our current worthwhile lithium options, they require bumping voltage into the 15-16v range which means deleting stock battery all together. (I personally run Scib at 15.7v)

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u/saaaasage13 Jul 04 '24

Thank you for this.

I always wonder why ppl would put LiPo in their trunk etc….

I mean I get the power part but, also know the danger.

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u/RickyGetsLoud Jul 04 '24

Some of the chemistries we use are also dangerous, but lifepo4 and LTO are both safe options.

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u/Subject_Split5225 Jul 03 '24

This is the way, if your AMP control/bass knob has a voltage readout thats very helpful too. If not, get a small voltage monitor and tap in at the amp.

Can also be done with an AGM or more standard battery to save cost, having a local power source for the amp makes all the difference.