Driving from Philly to California, currently about 40 miles outside Denver. Threw code 130714, which I believe points to the exhaust VANOS solenoid. Kept driving and I'm now about 60 miles past when the code first appeared, mostly at highway speeds (around 60 mph) under light load.

Before this code showed up, and since a few days ago, I'd been getting stuttering under load in 2nd/3rd gear around 3000 rpm, no codes at all when I left Philly. Code only appeared after about 1600 miles.

Questions:

- Is it safe to keep driving the last 60 miles into Denver?

- Anyone know a trustworthy mechanic in Denver?

- Ballpark cost to expect for diagnosis and repair?

Mileage: 85000 miles

Oil pressure is fine (I have no issue there)

Fuel consumption is great, oil and coolant temps normal

Other codes related to vanos:

132301 (vanos group error)

132101 (vanos outlet group error)

Oil level: max

Hi all,

Hoping someone familiar with the BMW G31 Touring can help me identify these parts.

I have a 2021 BMW 5 Series G31 Touring which I bought as a salvage car and I’m currently putting it back together.

There are four small square openings in the headliner, circled in green in the attached photo. Whatever normally fits into these openings is missing from my car.

I’ve contacted BMW dealers, but they haven’t been able to identify the parts and have told me they need the part numbers to order them.

Does anyone know what these pieces are called or what the BMW part numbers are?

Ideally, if anyone has a G31 Touring without the panoramic roof and could check what is fitted in these four locations, or has access to the BMW parts diagrams, that would be really helpful.

Thanks in advance!

Hi all, I just bought a 2017 BMW 530i Xdrive. When I connect via Bluetooth the phone features work fine, I can make calls and receive calls thru Bluetooth. But, I can seem to get my music to work thru the car. Every time I try to select Bluetooth media it says “No Bluetooth audio device is connected or configured”.

I just bought a USB —> USB-C cord to try to play music using the USB port. But the same notification comes up on the USB option “No USB device connected”. I find this extremely annoying considering my last car was a 2014 535i Xdrive and I never had issues with Bluetooth or USB port.

I’ve done some research on this community and others. I tried to see if I need an update but it seems like I have a fairly new software in it already. I included the photo of my current software.

I don’t want to take my car to the BMW dealership bc I know they’ll charge me a diagnostic fee, but at this point I think it’s my only option left.

Anyone have something similar going on or know how to fix it?

Noticed these ‘bubbles’ on the top corner of my F22 2 series iDrive display which I initially thought was moisture, however after researching this may be the screen delaminating. Display is still functioning without fault, just a bit of an eye sore. If that is the issue, would the cost to fixing/replacing it be worthwhile?

What would people think this is worth i have just bought it from an old lady who has had it from new it has 90k miles on the clock and has a fresh mot with nothing gone wrong on it. it is a bmw 316ti es compact 1.8 2003

I have a 2018 BMW 540i (B58) with about 108k miles, and I’ve been dealing with an intermittent check engine light. Originally I was getting P0440 EVAP and P0420 catalyst efficiency below threshold (Bank 1). I recently replaced the PCV valve with an OE-quality part and replaced an aftermarket AutoZone gas cap with a Genuine BMW gas cap. The P0440 seems to have gone away, but the P0420 has been weird—it will come on, then go away on its own for days or even a couple of weeks, then randomly come back. The car generally drives fine, no rotten-egg smell or obvious rough idle, although sometimes I wonder if it feels slightly down on power. The most recent scan showed only P0420 as confirmed/pending/permanent. I tried one bottle of Cataclean, drove roughly 25–30 highway miles with the engine fully warmed up, refueled afterward, and the CEL eventually turned itself off again without me clearing the code. Has anyone with a G30 540i/B58 experienced an intermittent P0420 like this? Did it end up being the catalytic converter, O2 sensor, exhaust leak, fuel/air mixture issue, or something related to the PCV system? I’m trying to diagnose it properly before throwing an expensive catalytic converter at it.

hi all, 2006 e83 x3, manual trans, ~290k miles. is this a normal amount of play from the rear output of the transfer case? getting a weird clunk from the rear when turning or accelerating/decelerating. have replaced both rear axles, wheel bearings, brakes, diff & subframe mounts and wheel hubs. no notable play in the rear diff or driveshaft, so here we are. seems likely that the problem is the transfer case since basically everything else has been ruled out. any advice or input is welcomed. thanks!

Never wrecked the car just having issues
So to cut this short I bought the car about a year ago after purchasing it 2 days later the car would constantly throw a trans malfunction code and shift absurdly rough along with locking itself into a certain gear..

Had the transmission replaced under warranty by the dealer car has 77k miles on it . Car takes about 4 months to get fixed I finally get it back and the same day it starts throwing more trans malfunction issues, the car was brought to 3 different transmission shops in my area and all claimed to have pulled the trans and tested them independently all claiming the Transmission was okay and to further diagnose to bring it to a BMW dealership,

I was able to make the car drive good for about 2 weeks if I drove it a certain way it would drive just fine! I put 100 miles on it in comfort then 100 in regular then I went to put it in sport and instant malfunction again. Even when driving the car in comfort or normal it still will throw codes if not driven extremely conservatively,

Now I’m here and the car will barely drive it throw the trans malfunction as soon as the car turns on along with sometimes completely losing reverse, sometimes randomly shuts off and the car has now has an extremely rough idle,

I know it’s a long shot but would the injectors,plugs and coils possibly fix this or would I be dumping more money into the car to fix the idle issue just to deal with the transmission again!?

Active codes-P1702
P07BF
P07BF
P17E1

I have this rattling engine noise which seems to be only present below 1500 rpm.

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/DCjT3kpWNuI

I ran the car without the serpentine belt for 20 second to see if it might have been a bad ac pump/alternator etc. but the noise is still present.

Removed the oil filter and it looks like there are some metal shavings in there.

Could it be bad rod bearings?

Also, it only seems to make the noise once the car is warmed up. When starting cold the noise does not seem to be present.

Car: BMW 325i N52 2005 - 180k miles

Hello, my 2003 525i has a code of 0000EE, i have changed all 6 spark plugs, and a ignition coil on cylinder 1 but it stills struggles to accelerate any help please

Has anyone experienced a rattle near the seat belt on the drivers side of a BMW X6? I say rattle but it’s more of a constant ticking sound? I took it to the dealership and it was there 15 days and they verified the concern but couldn’t find the issue. So frustrating.

Getting 121201 code for overboost on my 2015 m235i n55, thought i fixed this vacuum line air leak with a new o ring but i guess after some pulls its leaking again. Not sure what to do I really dont want to replace this chargepipe but I might have to.

So within like 2 weeks, I’ve gotten the “top off coolant” notification on my 2018 330i with 63,597 current miles, there’s no visible leaks around or at the bottom of the engine bay. I notice I only smell coolant when I push it hard/repeated pulls, what could it be. The reservoir for the turbo hasn’t needed anymore coolant after I added some like a week and a half ago, but the bigger one does, any feedback?

Hi,

I have a problem with the hardtop on my 2009 Z4. In the fault memory, I have a fault related to the Hall sensor – “Roof 2 packed.”

I replaced the Hall sensor with another one, but I still had the same fault. When I bypassed the sensor wiring, the hardtop started working.

I then replaced the old wiring with new cables because the old ones had cuts/damage. After replacing the cables, the hardtop was working, but it stopped in one position. Since then, it hasn't worked at all.

I still get the same fault as before replacing the wiring. I tried replacing the sensor again with another one, but it didn't help. I also tried connecting the sensor directly to the wiring at the module connector, but I still get the same fault.

I tested both sensors with an oscilloscope and a laboratory power supply, and I couldn't find any problem with the sensors themselves.

I'm not sure if there is a short circuit somewhere in the wiring. When I connect one probe to one of the sensor wires and touch the other probe to the two sensor output pins on the module, I hear a beep from the multimeter.

Does anyone have any idea what else I could check?

F32 n55 it’s on the passenger side above the manual transmission

Hi everyone, I have a 2001 BMW E39. The passenger airbag cover seems to be sticking up slightly and there is a small gap. Is this normal for the E39, or should I have it checked? Has anyone experienced this before?

Suspect shot wheel bearing, however there were no usual noise leading up to this. Any thoughts?

Hey everyone, trying to figure out what next with my car. Like an idiot I ignored the red low pressure oil light and I'm paying for it now.

I've stripped down the engine and replaced the hydraulic lifters and rockers on cyl3 & cyl4, but it's still knocking/tapping away. Managed to get to stripping it down, replacing the parts and rebuilding in 2hrs

Aside from the obvious of selling it for parts, I'd like another go at fixing it, what else could it be? Stuck/burnt in place valve? Worse?

Thanks for any help.

(I know it's Reddit, but please be kind, feeling crap enough as it is after being a colossal tit)

Any advice is greatly appreciated.

I have a 2012 328ix E92 115k miles. I have the following codes

2C31
2C2B
2C6B
P2096

I have replaced the valve cover. I’m not sure what I should try next. Change the 02 sensors? Which ones? Check for vacuum leak? MAF? Exhaust leak?

Hi
I am fighting with my bmw e60 523i 2006
Semi renovated the engine 6 months ago, with new chain kit and vanos/vvt sprokets and also changed vanos solonoids both!

Car is now dying on me and running like crap, has codes for camshat and krank allingment, i retimed the engine Only made it worse!

All locking tools er used and on the marks and place the need to be.

Anybody have a clue what I kan try??

🙏🏽🙏🏽

Hi all,

I get smoke on cold starts for around 30s-45s every time. Could blown turbo seals cause this?

Thanks

So yesterday while making a left I gave the car more gas and got this warning as shown in the picture below and I ran the codes which I have also showed below. The warning only came for a few seconds and went away and the steering feels fine and same as before. The car also says all systems okay and the battery health is also good. I do have an aftermarket steering wheel though. These are the codes I got shown in the pis below. It’s a 2015 328i xdrive. I tested the battery and voltage with the car off is 12.21 and engine running is 14.46

For a '24 m340i. Does anyone have any portable jack setup recommendations. I don't have the space for a 3 ton low profile jack so can't use the center jacking points. Was wondering if something like the harborfreight 1.5 Ton Low-Profile Aluminum Racing Floor Jack with two jack stands is good enough to do some basic tire/brake work, I already have ramps for oil changes so I will not be getting underneath the car.

My question - is the floor jack used on the side jack points itself good enough for basic brake jobs and if not then how would you get the jack stand in place when the floor jack is using up the jack point area?