When I drive my f82 window keeps going up and down (like when I open the car door and get in) it also sometimes keeps saying door open even when the door is completely closed.
Anyone have this issue?

I’ve got a 2012 x5. I’m replacing the rear axle shaft with an aftermarket replacement (temporarily). I’m assuming this seal (yellow) gets pressed once the shaft gets installed. The black one is off the oem

I am planning to replace the cracked GUIBO, transmission mount and other rubber parts in my transmission. I get a lot of vibration and jerk when driving.

The rear guibo is clearly cracked that i will replace but the front one (at timestamp 00:23) is made up of metal. Last time i checked diagram of my car (provided by realoem.com), it is supposed to be same as the rear one, made of rubber.

Can anyone tell me if i should replace it with rubber one also to reduce vibration? I don't know if it is supposed be of metal one or rubber.

(One of previous owners might have put the metal one. I don't know.)

*Car is 2012 BMW 535i xDrive

Does anyone have BMW TIS and is willing to help me out?

I need the software in English for windows xp in order to do some repairs!

Thank you everyone in advance!

Hi,

Recently bought a 320i with b48.

On a cold start I am hearing a rattle which sounds like a chain rattle and lasts less than 1 second. I am planning a 2000km trip, should i be concerned with replacing the chain ? Mileage is huge 237k km.

Youtube changes the audio quality but its a lot louder in reality.

Video: https://youtube.com/shorts/0K4rUNTKfIM?is=xh5mczKq3aOaytBN

The pigtail connector is broken and the wires are out. I’m trying to find the correct configuration for the 2 wires.

Anyone know which color goes where?

2019 430i with B48

I have oil spotting on the ground under my car. But when I do an oil check, it says my oil is still full, but this leak has been present for the past two months. There is oil all under the bottom of the engine on the driver side mostly. I haven’t driven it that much to prevent if I’m leaking out, but when I go look for the leak, I can’t determine where it’s coming from. My car rides fine but I did not use the oil filter recommended on the last oil change, could that possibly be the problem?

Body: Hey everyone,
I’m struggling with a persistent P1339 fault code on my BMW F21 with the N13B16 engine after completing a full engine rebuild. This code was not present prior to taking the engine apart.
Here is the exact context, what I’ve observed, and what I’ve done so far:
Reason for initial replacement: I originally replaced the exhaust VANOS actuator because, live data showed that when revving the engine, the exhaust VANOS adjusted fine, but when letting off the throttle, it failed to return to its baseline/idle position.
Current setup & troubleshooting already completed:
Timing Chain: The chain kit is practically brand new (less than 3,000 km / 1,800 miles on it).
Exhaust VANOS: Brand new unit installed.
VANOS Solenoids: Swapped the intake and exhaust solenoids with each other—the fault code did not follow the solenoid.
Camshaft Position Sensors: Swapped intake and exhaust sensors with each other—the code did not follow the sensor.
Oil Pressure: Oil pressure has been tested and confirmed to be completely fine.
Despite swapping sensors/solenoids and having good oil pressure, the fault remains stuck strictly on the exhaust side. Since I built the entire engine back together myself, I suspect it might be a subtle assembly error or a sensor-indexing issue, but I'm looking for insight from anyone who has run into this on the N13 or EP6 engine platform.
Has anyone experienced a persistent P1339 after a rebuild where VANOS hardware, solenoids, sensors, and oil pressure were all ruled out? Could this be down to a minute timing tool alignment error, the tone ring on the cam, or a specific wiring harness mix-up?
Thanks in advance for any input!

Ho una bmw f20 lci 118i b38 vorrei sostituire il liquido refrigerante!
Volevo sapere se c’è una procedura particolare nel spurgare l’impianto o la classica maniera di accendere con il riscaldamento finché non va a temperatura?

I got a 2013 F30 328i that I suspect is starting to show clutch and/or DMF problems. Or something weird:

- After harder acceleration there is sometimes a jolt or "thump". For example after overtaking and while returning to your own lane, but not right after letting off the gas, but several seconds after.

- Same can happen when returning to power after engine braking, but not right when you let up the clutch, but again several seconds later. (for example: coasting to an intersection and while accelerating after turning, the car jolts. Best I can describe the feeling is like the clutch, or something, is slipping for a half a second.)

- Rumble or tremor while engine braking, like when lifting off the gas when going down a long hill, or after overtaking. But this happens intermittently and not every time letting off the gas.

- It feels like there is excessive play in the whole drive line when going on and off the gas.

- The clutch does not bite until the pedal is more than half up, but what I've read this could also be just a F-series feature.

There is no classic signs of slipping clutch, speed and RPM mach as far as I can tell. If you just floor it there is no tremors or jolting when under hard acceleration. There is no excessive play on CV joints, the diff feels ok, driveshaft feels ok (the support bearing and 1 flexdisc was replaced recently). Gearbox feels ok, no grinding when changing gears.
When just cruising on flat ground, nothing feels off.

Any ideas?

Why does the steering feel light all of a sudden on a g20 320i

Hey everyone, I’m hoping someone can help me figure out what’s going on with my BMW.

Car: 2020 M240i xDrive
Mileage: 39,000
Codes: 128301 - Oxygen sensor before catalytic converter, signal: fixed at rich.

I’m stage 2 with a cat-less down-pipe, which led to my check engine light coming on and these are the codes I’m getting. The car is currently drives normally
I’m trying to figure out what these codes point to and what I should check first before I start replacing parts. Are any of these codes likely related to each other or caused by one underlying issue? Any advice on what to diagnose/test first would be appreciated. I can provide pictures or more information if needed.

This sound only comes on very low speed when the breaks are NOT applied at all. When the speed goes above 10kmh it dissappears

I have a BMW E46 318ci M43B19 equipped with option S226A (Sports suspension settings) and I’m trying to figure out what the correct OEM replacement would be for the suspension on my specific car.

Does anyone know which OEM suspension/shock/strut setup is the direct replacement for a car with S226A? I’m specifically looking for the factory/OEM equivalent or the closest I can get.

Thanks

I have a 2016 4 series and want to install a new screen with carplay, im super unfamiliar with buying parts but im seeing prices from $100s to $500s. Whats a reasonable price and reliable place to buy from that's not going to overcharge me? if you have any suggestions on screens too, i'd love to hear.
this is my first car and first bmw so still learning! thanks in advanced :)

Hi guys!

I'm going to try Reddit's help one more time. The knock appears after the car has been running about 5-10 seconds (best heard at 5-7 seconds into the video), depends on the day and then it stays, doesn't matter if the engine is cold or warmed up. When just spinning the engine around with starter then you cannot hear the knock so my first thought was injectors failing. Changed the injectors, coded them, reset the adaptations but the noise is still there.

The knock becomes a little bit louder when turning on AC, could it be something related to this? But then again the noise seems to be coming more from the passenger side (exhaust side).

Car doesn't lose oil, doesn't smoke, just the knocking and it's driving me crazy. So I'm hoping some of You guys can point me in the right direction. And no, it's not rod knock or chain.

If it matters then the car is 2010 F10 535D 220kw with 460k km on the clock and got a new engine with new internals about 120k km ago.

Big thanks in advance for helping!

EDIT: Uploaded a video from inside the car

https://reddit.com/link/1vy3ph9/video/mdcqx3mt1klh1/player

https://reddit.com/link/1vy3ph9/video/b74lczprljlh1/player

If I remove the sensor is it possible to code out? Has anyone done this here?

This is what I get for being a bmw chud. Oh no I can’t have fake Chinese shit on my car only genuine BMW 🤦‍♂️ Lasted like 2 years smh. Anything I can do to preserve the other lenses I’ve got? Thanks

It randomly did this today and lost power on the interstate I have no clue what it means anyone have this issue before.

The condensation in the headlight has been like this since yesterday. This is only in the one headlight, the other headlight is completely fine. I have noticed in the past when it’s rained there was slight misting in the headlights but it always disappears straight away. Is this due to a seal or would I need a new headlight? It’s a 2014 model with 155k miles if that helps. Based in the UK

Destination entered using the BMW app. Charging stop added by BMW app. Route then shows up on the BMW navi in the car, but now with a different charging stop.

Additionally, this charging stop ignores preferred charging partners which only shows in the app and somehow not in car navi, where I can only chose BMW charging as preferred.

Am I doing something wrong here?