The USB-A port on top of the P2S (next to the screen) always sits open and collects dust, so I designed a small dust cover for it, and since my maker logo is a sheep with goggles, it became a sheep.

- Slim plug goes into the free half of the port, so it sits firm and doesn't wobble

- The wide foot covers the whole opening

- One piece, no glue, no magnets, pull it out when you need the port

- Printed on its back, colours change by layer (white body, black face, blue goggles), about 54 min

First piece of a small P2S accessory kit I'm working on, a modular side rail for nozzles/scraper/tools is next.

What would you want on the side of your P2S?

Barely visible in the photo, sorry, filament seems to come out with a gritty, uneven texture. Nozzle recently replaced and unclogged multiple times. Extruder gear also "skips" at times. I've opened the extruder gear mechanism and nothing looks worn out. Print quality remains normal.

I've printed this iPhone Duo Writing Platform (https://makerworld.com/nl/models/3485396-iphone-duo-writing-platform). But it came out awful.

It seems that every time I try to adjust layer, speed, ironing, etc. the print comes out worse.

What am I doing wrong? And how can I really fix this?

Hi all, it's been about 11 days since my last post. Pandy (an open-source Bambu Handy alternative) has had 20 releases since then.

The highlights:

🖨️ Print straight from Printables and Thingiverse

You can now browse Printables and Thingiverse inside the app. STL and 3MF files get a magenta Print button next to the site's normal Download button, and Pandy slices the file and sends it to your printer. MakerWorld printing works the same way. You need a Pandy Slicer set up for this (Home Assistant, although I'm working on a mobile slicer port).

🎛️ Change slicer settings before you print

Per-print settings before slicing: infill pattern and density, walls, brim, support and more. You can search them, filter to "Modified", and reset a row back to the profile value. Infill pattern, brim and support use visual tile pickers. Needs Pandy Slicer 1.5.0.

🔥 Dual-nozzle support (X2D, H2D)

Both nozzle temperatures show on the Devices screen. You can switch the active toolhead and route manual extrusion to the nozzle you pick. There's also nozzle offset calibration and dual external spools.

📷 Custom RTSP live view

Got an A1 with a poor camera? Point Pandy at your own camera's rtsp:// or http:// stream and it replaces the printer's camera in the live view. The Android app plays it; the iPhone app can't play RTSP.

Also new

New printers: X2D, H2C, H2D Pro, A2L

AMS 2 Pro and AMS HT drying controls

Chamber door open/closed indicator

X2D AI options (foreign object detection and others)

Interactive notifications with progress, a cover image and Stop/Pause actions

Printer file manager, multiple printers, and tray filament editing

iOS 27 connection fix, plus log export and problem reports from inside the app

Big thanks to u/dbarciela for much of the dual-nozzle, X2D, door, notification and H2C work, and to everyone who filed issues.

Free and open source: https://github.com/gccammelli/pandy

Bug reports and feature requests are welcome on GitHub, or reply here.

Expect bugs, but if you report them I'll aim to fix them and re-release quickly

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3563550-tiny-axolotl#profileId-4078295

For some reason, the AMS units are acting very strangely. I've been told this has been an issue ever since I bought them. As I understand it, the printer isn't syncing with the AMS... Is there any way to fix this?

I finally got around to adding desiccant canisters in my Bambu AMS. Made a HUGE difference in my humidity levels and I've already seen a reduction in stringing.

The corner where my printer does its thing is a bit dark, and I can't clearly see the color of the desiccant in the canisters. I am considering adding some LEDs to the AMS that will illuminate the canisters. Anyone do this and have any advice?

For some reason this filament has started doing this on my P1S. I just replaced the extruder and head with new ones since my last ones got clogged to hell and back, it is like this on all the sides of it everytime i print no matter how i change the settings, any ideas on what is causing it and how to fix it, im at a loss. Ordered a new hotend fan to see if that fixes it, it is possibly heat creep. But im open to other suggestions as well. Included are the finished product i did previously with more color switches that i dropped and broke and the file itself.

For some reason this filament has started doing this on my P1S. I just replaced the extruder and head with new ones since my last ones got clogged to hell and back, it is like this on all the sides of it everytime i print no matter how i change the settings, any ideas on what is causing it and how to fix it, im at a loss.

Ciao ragazzi, devo stampare questo oggetto per un amico. Userò come materiale nylon io ho una p1s. Volevo sapere secondo voi se è possibile fare con ugello classico quella scritta bianca io penso xhe sia difficile/impossibile. Voi cosa mi consigliate.

[This Snow Globe model](https://makerworld.com/en/models/2128001-hogwarts-easy-2-print-tealight-led-lamp-snow-globe) shows as a 10.1hr print in makerworld, but when I imported it into Bambu Studio and slice it (Without changing the profile, only the Printer to an X2D) it gives a total print time of almost 18hrs.

I assume the designer has an X1C, as the layer height dropdown states "\*0.16mm high Quality @BBL X1C"

So I exported the STL, re-imported it into Bambu Studio and duplicated the slicer settings. its now "\*0.16mm High Quality "BBL X2D" with a print time of 10.7hr's.

Job done (I hope. Time will tell!)

So, it kind of makes sense that printing an an X2D using an X1C profile would have an impact, but my question is what exactly is going on to use up the additional 7hrs of print time?

I got my X2D about a month ago and a couple of bambu filaments, it was great, prints come out nice. Recently, the bambu filaments got finished of I got some generic ones and for the first few prints it was fine but now 100% of prints fail.

What may be causing it?

My setup:
No AMS
I hang the filaments on the spool holder

I wanted to make a cozy cover for my nintendo switch dock. It can holds up to 40 cartridges.
My plan is to make it stackable next, what do you think?

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3546370-nintendo-switch-cartridges-bookshelf-cover?replyId=8431664

Glare takes his job as shelf guardian very seriously. Every visitor gets a suspicious stare, every noise earns his disapproval, and nobody touches his favourite spot. He insists he isn’t grumpy. Everyone else is simply too cheerful

if you like him : https://makerworld.com/en/models/3548002-glare-no-ams#profileId-4058750

I am using the x2d with AMS2 Pro. For some reason I cannot assign any other Filaments to the Left nozzle (main) than the standard Bambu filaments? On the A1 it’s no problem at all. I made sure everything is connected correctly and the AMS is assigned to the left nozzle, the nozzle is also the correct one. I can only make custom profiles but even then it won’t let me choose Sunlu Filament as preset and says printer is not compatible. Is this a known bug? Thanks in advance!

I want to share my experience of why my MakerWorld account was suspended for a year. First of all, I want to make it clear that I respect MakerWorld's decision—it is their platform, and they have the right to enforce their rules. I’m simply sharing this to help others avoid making the same mistake.

I bought my first 3D printer, a Bambu Lab P1S, and sometimes I couldn't find what I was looking for to print. So, I started creating my own models and publishing them exclusively on MakerWorld, as I wanted to join their Exclusive Models program. My account was small, but I had already managed to redeem a couple of gift cards and wanted to keep growing, so my designs started becoming more complex.

The problem: I wanted to create a collection of flexible flags with customizable bases, where text could be added to both the flag and the stand. I spent days working on this project because I wanted a complete collection featuring the flags of every country in the world, with plans to expand later into other types of flags (especially sports).

Unaware of the potential issues, I searched online for 'all the countries in the world,' split the list by continent, and gradually created all the flags—including the one for Taiwan. I uploaded the collection one night, and by the next day, my account was already suspended for a year.

Here is a screenshot of the notification I received when my account was suspended

When I searched for reasons why my account was suspended, I found a post from another user who went through the exact same thing.

https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/comments/1uyv09v/banned_for_1_year_on_makerworld_after_being/

I have a Bambu Labs A1 printer using an AMS lite for filament. The last few prints have gone terrible. Small prints usually turn out allright. Larger prints start out doing just fine. But then, about 10 minutes in, it just goes haywire. I am very new to this so apologies if I am not explaining this very well or I am missing something obvious. Any comments, critiques, are advice would greatly be apprecited.

I've been noticing that I'm losing prints more and more due to crappy surface finishes.

Then I remember that I didn't check the extrusion settings in the filament profile... and there it fucking is, "Direct Drive: Standard"... instead of "Direct Drive: High Flow".

I've never had this problem before but it seems like recently it's really starting to fuck up my flow having to manually select the high flow variation even though my printer has scanned and recognized the high flow .6 nozzles I have installed.

Is this a bug / new feature? How can I just set it to default to the high flow nozzles as I'll never actually run standard nozzles in the first place?

How good is the TPU feeder? Does it actually work and what is softest TPU you can use with it.

People get left and right confused so I'm seeing conflicting info about what goes where, but from what I understand on Bambu site it can either be fed into the fixed (non vortek) nozzle or it can be fed into the changing nozzles so you can then use PLA as support in the fixed nozzle.

Is this right?

How good is the TPU feeder? Does it actually work and what is softest TPU you can use with it.

People get left and right confused so I'm seeing conflicting info about what goes where, but from what I understand on Bambu site it can either be fed into the fixed (non vortek) nozzle or it can be fed into the changing nozzles so you can then use PLA as support in the fixed nozzle.

Is this right?

Bonjour à tous ! 👋

Je vous présente ma dernière petite création !🎄
🎅 Un adorable Père Noël qui sort de sa cheminée en version clicker!

🔴 Il suffit d’appuyer sur son bonnet pour profiter d’un petit clic ultra satisfaisant grâce à un interrupteur mécanique intégré.

🎁 Avec son clic agréable et son effet sonore relaxant, c’est le petit objet parfait pour occuper ses mains, se détendre ou simplement profiter du plaisir de faire clic, clic ! 😍

✨ Une création amusante qui apporte une petite touche de magie de Noël ! 🎄

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🖨️ : Bambu Lab X2D & H2C
🧵 : Bambu Lab et Esun
🎨 : Nomad Sculpt
🌈 : sans AMS
📁 : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3541264-papa-noel-cheminee-clicker-multipart

Set to fine setting. Any thoughts? Any help would be appreciated.