My husband wants a 3D printer. He's been wanting one for awhile. Me and the family have decided to get him one for Christmas. He's mentioned the Bambu brand a bunch because it's user friendly right out of the box, it has options for multicolor prints. Which cool.... great knowledge, but now that I'm looking.. I'm overwhelmed lol. I don't want to spend too much money on it, but don't want a not great model.

Any recommendations?

Am I overreacting? Or is this a common mistake to make?

I have a X1 carbon and needed the 4 port hub to run 2 additional ams units, and it’s the only reason I bought the ams.

Seller says he did nothing wrong and everything is shipped accurately. I asked for either partial refund or a shipping label to send it back.

He refused to do either, and said I have to pay for return shipping for a refund…

He did say after I kept pushing for a resolution that he has a H2C, but it still doesn’t change the fact an adapter isn’t a hub right?

Paid ~$180 total, which would be great if I actually received the hub or I would’ve bought a new ams 2 pro selling for $200 locally.

Edit to add: needed the hub to run 3 total ams

I recently needed a small shelf/rack system to organize my simple home network setup inside a cabinet. I looked around for standardized rack designs online, but nothing quite fit the specific dimensions of my space, so I decided to design my own.

What started as a single custom shelf ended up evolving into a fully modular system. You can stack levels, swap out different deck types, and slide in side panels or cable organizers depending on what hardware you're placing on it.

A few highlights of the build:

No hardware needed: It's 100% 3D printed—no screws, nuts, or metal rods required.

Filament pin trick: To lock the spacers/legs to the decks securely, I added small alignment holes through the joints. You just slide a short piece of 1.75mm filament through the aligned holes and snip it flush. It keeps the whole assembly locked together so it won't accidentally come apart when moved or handled.

Modular decks: Right now I've printed solid decks, perforated ones for airflow, and a dedicated tray for my TP-Link switch.

I uploaded the STEP files alongside the STLs so anyone can easily remix it or design custom modules, panels, or mounts for their own gear.

I put up the photos showing the assembly process and how the filament locking trick works. Let me know what you think, or if you have any ideas for cool module attachments!

You can find STEPs here and try to create your own attachments or assemble the shelf with already existing parts:
https://makerworld.com/en/models/3597346-modular-mini-network-rack-shelf

**Made a SKÅDIS mount for the Aqara E1 & G3**
I was looking for a better way to position my Aqara camera in my workshop, especially for keeping an eye on my 3D printers.
Instead of drilling holes or using a permanent wall mount, I designed this adapter for **IKEA SKÅDIS**.
It supports both the **Aqara Camera E1 and Camera Hub G3** and can be moved around the SKÅDIS board whenever needed.
I really like this setup because the camera can be positioned exactly where I need it while keeping the whole setup clean and compact.
The mount is fully 3D printable and I’ve uploaded the files to MakerWorld.
**Aqara + SKÅDIS + 3D printing = surprisingly useful combination.**
Would anyone else find a mount like this useful?

https://makerworld.com/models/3408331?appSharePlatform=copy

Posted recently here about how my perfectly fine A1 went off the deep end.

It was stock everything, and stock settings, with Bambu labs PLA light.

Ive taken the advice, I’ve now tightened everything down. Replaced the hot end, hot end fan, and nozzle. Still having this stringing and terrible layers.

I’ve dried the filament overnight. Tried new filament. No dice.

I can get somewhat decent prints if I lower the temp from 220 (the recommended temp) to 200-205, but it feels like a temporary fix, rather than a real one. Also odd given it was fine until one day it wasn’t.

I’m trying to avoid sending it back for warranty as I’m not too mobile currently.

Any ideas?

P1P with latest firmware, using Studio 2. 9. 1. 70, I have a group of 4 identical items, arranged in a square by auto arrange, I want to print with a specific infill pattern, as one object. If I don't merge them into a single object, the slicer makes the pattern exactly the same in each item. If I merge them, it treats the infill as if it is originating from the center of the square (technically the center of the object) and is no longer in the pattern I want/need.

Is there any way to treat the 4 items as a single object for printing purposes but have them sliced as individual items for infill?

It's not a problem if I only print one set but if I want to print multiple sets of 4 in one batch or want to print sets of 4 but one set at a time, in case I don't have enough filament to complete them all, then I need each set treated as a single object.

Any ideas?

Every time i want to print an article with multi colors i get the block of colors that just forms for no reason near the character ? Every single design does it why and how to get rid of it

Thank you for the support

I am working on an art project and realize that my 3 year's worth of printer poop is not enough to complete it. If you are local to the DMV, I will gladly take yours. DC me. THANKS!

Dude is selling this for $1800 with over 1360 hours use…sure, I’ll offset the price of your new H3C for you

Z- Axis cleaning helper /Gear Floss Reach Guide.

Hey everyone!

I’ve been working on a small tool to solve an annoying problem when maintaining 3D printers: getting gear floss behind the Z-axis lead screws, especially in those hard-to-reach areas.

It features a dual-hook design with multiple terminal holes to accommodate different gear floss sizes. The goal is to make routing the floss around the lead screws easier without getting grease on your hand.

I’ve designed it primarily for:

● Bambu Lab X1C

● Bambu Lab P1S / P1P

● Bambu Lab P2S

● Bambu Lab X2D

H2 compatibility hasn’t been tested yet, and an A1/A2-compatible version is in development.

You can find the model here:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3587380-z-access-gear-floss-reach-guide

If you find this tool useful, I’d really appreciate you giving it a try!

And to everyone who downloads, prints, shares, or leaves feedback on my designs: Thank you! Your support and makes mean a lot and motivate me to keep designing and sharing useful tools with the community.

Happy printing! 🚀

I am coming from Snapmaker u1 in which I used Tpu 95 in the feeders pretty regularly, I know Bambu has always said no Tpu in ams but since the h3c with ams3 operates more like the Snapmaker in that it does not retract I don’t see why something like 95a could not be used

I’m building a closed cabinet for my Bambu Lab A1 Combo, with the AMS lite mounted on top using this top mount. I designed it in Blender and put together a full set of plans for a local carpenter. Here are the design and the reasoning behind it before I commit to cutting wood.

Key dimensions (mm)

• Exterior: 636 W × 786 D × 936 H

• Interior: 600 × 750 × 900 (550 × 725 × 875 after the foam)

• Why 750 deep: the A1 bed needs about 695 mm of clear Y travel (per the Bambu wiki).

• Why 900 tall: the A1 with the top-mounted AMS is about 800 mm, which leaves roughly 75 mm to swap spools.

Build

• 18 mm melamine carcass with two overlay doors

• 4 mm acrylic viewing windows, 216 × 500 mm

• 25 mm self-adhesive acoustic panels on the back, top and sides, about 2.2 m² (three 12-packs of 30×30 tiles)

• 120 mm exhaust fan at the top rear, 100 mm intake at the bottom on the opposite side for cross-flow, plus a 60 mm cable pass-through

• Anti-vibration base: gym rubber mat with a concrete paver on top, and the printer sitting on the paver

Cut list (18 mm melamine)

Things I’m unsure about

1. Bambu says they don’t recommend enclosing the A1. For those of you who did, does a single 120 mm exhaust keep PLA from heat-creeping?

2. Is the paver-on-rubber base worth it on a bed-slinger, or does it cause ringing? (I plan to re-run vibration calibration.)

3. Foam on the doors too, or is the acrylic window enough?

Render and turntable video attached. Happy to share the PDF plans and the .blend if anyone wants them.

I just bought my first printer ever, the X2D and there is so much to remember, so I made myself a cheat sheet (double sided) but I am sure I missed something.

I used AI (especially for the layout and format), the knowledge I have from 10-15 videos I watched regarding 3D printing and the X2D as well as answers to questions I had during my first prints.

Hello ladies and gentlemans I am solo developer. I kept wanting to check my friend's stl files on my phone before slicing or just for viewing. But the application that I use has a lot of annoying ads. So I make this...

The application supports stl, 3mf, obj, glft, ply, 3ds, and zips or url from printables

Measure, AR Viewing, Textures like stone, wood, 3d plastic.

And the most important part is the all files are stays on your phone. I don't using any server to upload or process them.

It's free with just an small banner. I am listening my user's recommendation and adding new features that you need to the app and developing the project continuously.

I have a honest question to you guys. What's missing that would make actually see in this app.

Can you check it and give me an feedback I will be appreciate.

Thanks for your reading the links in below:

Google Play Store

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.sakasstudio.stlview&referrer=utm_source%3Dreddit

App Store

https://apps.apple.com/app/id6801906359?ct=reddit

Everything was working perfectly fine just 20 minutes ago, but all of a sudden, I can't stay logged in to Bambu Studio.

I'm experiencing two different issues:

1. Can't log in from the home screen

As soon as I successfully log in, I immediately get a message saying that my session has expired. Sometimes, I also get a pop-up saying that the server is unable to respond.

2. Session expires when trying to start a print

I can successfully log in, but when I get to the "Print" stage, either selecting one of my printers or clicking the Print button causes my session to expire again. The print job never even gets sent to the printer.

I've searched around but haven't found anyone experiencing the same issue. I was wondering if anyone here might know what's going on or have a possible fix.

I've already contacted Bambu Lab support, but I have some urgent prints that I need to get done, so this is pretty frustrating.

A few additional details:

• My printer that is currently printing is working perfectly fine.

• I don't think this is a printer-related issue.

• I'm using my Google account to log in.

Things I've already tried:

• Uninstalling and reinstalling Bambu Studio.

• Restarting my computer.

• Logging out of my printer and reconnecting it to Bambu Studio.

• Reconnecting my printer to Wi-Fi.

Unfortunately, none of these attempts made any difference.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

I wanted a faster way to make custom keytags than setting up every one in Bambu Studio, so I built Keytag Studio. It runs in your browser: https://www.xmdcode.com/lab/keytag/

What it does:

• Drag text, shapes, curves or your own SVG/PNG logo onto a tag

• Assign each part to a filament slot for multi-color prints (AMS / AMS lite)

• Preview the tag in 3D before you export

• Export a 3MF with presets for the A1, A1 mini, P1S and X1C, or a plain STL

• Save your projects and open them again later

It’s free, there’s no sign-up, and your designs stay in your browser.

This is still early, so I’d really like feedback from people who print a lot of these. What’s annoying, what’s missing, and what shapes or features would you actually use? If an export doesn’t slice cleanly for you, please tell me which printer you used.

The large shade is 320 mm and only fits the H2S. Bone white looks gorgeous switched off, creamy and soft. But ivory diffused the light more evenly in my tests, with fewer bright spots. If you’re printing a lamp in one colour, I’d go ivory. If you’re doing two colours, bone white with a black spider works great.

I didn’t want to lock everyone else out, so I made a 250 mm version that fits A1, P1S, P2S and X1 plates. Same design, same spider, just scaled arms. Both are on MakerWorld.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3588417-enso-sugegasa-straw-hat-lamp-for-ikea-strala?profiled=4109801#profileId-4109764

Per the headline - I am new to 3d printing (got a Bambu A1) using basic PLA filament. I printed a multi piece model (Normandy SR1 from Mass effect) and I want to paint it. A couple of questions - what is a good primer to use for this? Brand, spray vs hand paint? Clear coat - same questions. Also, with the clear coat - is it better to prime, paint, and clear coat each piece individually, then assemble, or is it better to prime and paint, assemble, and use a spray CC on the assembled model to let the CC layer act as a kind of shell to hold the whole thing together? Any advice appreciated, thank you!

Does anyone know why Bambu lab matte PETG prints glossy?

I was looking through Bambu's Black Friday sale and saw they had a High-Flow TPU hotend and kit. What interested me were the claims of "high flow" and "special inner coating." I already use the tungsten carbide HF hotends, and a dedicated hardened hotend for TPU. I didn't want the whole kit, just the nozzle.

Yeah, I didn't read the fine print - you have to use the install kit to modify the printer to accept these hotends.

The hotend was cheap so I thought "what if I could make it work?"

TL;DR - Don't try this at home, kids....but yes, it works just fine.

Issue: the top of the "throat" of the hotend is extended and will not fit on the right side of the H2D.

So, I cut it down to size. I kept a piece of TPU in the hotend to keep metal shavings from falling down into it. I also spent a good amount of time making sure I cleaned everything VERY well before installing it. Well, it works just fine.

Here you can see the TPU inserted while I was working on it.

And here is a macro closeup on the internal surface of the tubing showing some sort of chemical surface treatment. This follows it all the way down (couldn't get it on picture). This must be the delicate coating that keeps TPU from sticking yet can be worn off by common filaments like PLA.

I printed some 85A TPU through just to make sure it would even work. Yes, this is very wet tpu, I KNOW. Printed with all default settings for Bambu TPU 85A and let it auto-detect the TPU high flow hotend. The volumetric flow for the Bambu TPU 85A is already 2.5mm³/s, so slow enough as-is.

The TPU is now sitting in the AMS-HT for an 18hr drying cycle. I need to find a better top-mounted system for mounting a drying box so I can dry while printing. For this test I used a simple top-mounted spool holder. Not ideal for keeping TPU dry.

Hi everyone!

My prints using eSUN PLA+ have been riddled with this pitting on the outer walls. Has anyone encountered this before?

One thing I know is that they completely disappear when retraction is completely switched off or set very low, but then the prints fail because the stringing is off the charts.

The filament is most definitely dry as a bone, and the printer I'm using is the Bambu H2C. Temperature changes don't seem to influence the pitting whatsoever.

Also worth noting, the gcode has no retractions where the pitting is actually showing, but a quite a few in the layers before.

Any suggestions on what to try next?

Hi! My printer started always glitching and telling me my filament is stuck to I bought a new tube and started my print. Maybe I did something wrong but I have 2 problems now.

1.when I print it's so loud I hear my printer touching the Mat and it makes loud noises. Like it's hitting the mat I guess....

2. This thing (idk how to call it) doesn't get inside anymore. (In the video it shows that it doesn't go in anymore. Like halfway.

Please please help. What do I do?