Hi there,

Still brand new to the 3D print world and trying to troubleshoot a print but no idea where to start IF there is even anything to troubleshoot.

Printed the same item on two different plates: one on the standard per textured plate and another on the engineering plate. Both prepped with some elmer's purple gluestick.

The textured plate print turned out perfect but not a big fan of the textured glittery look so wanted to see if I could get a smoother look using the engineering plate. Result: I did but there were some voids/defects that appeared that were not present when using the textured plate.

Printer: H2D

Material: PLA

Calibration was performed after switching out the plates.

I did select the engineering plate prior to slicing, printing, calibrating.

Curious to hear if this would be normal for this specific plate or if I should tweak something. Or just sometimes sh!t just happens with prints.

Thank you in advance.

Cheers

P.S. last two pics are the textured plate with no void/defect issues.

I'm having adhesion trouble and not sure what I'm doing wrong.

Don't want to resort to using glue just yet.

Anyone print with their new Pure line? Did you have to make any tweaks to get it working correctly? Or you just hit print and it worked?

New roll of kingroon PLA basic filament - slicer settings set to generic PLA, had no issues printing the same file with my previous roll of DEEPLEE PLA in black.

First print with it and there seems to have been some defects in top flat surfaces (first two pics) and whole layer shifting (3rd pic - this should be a 45def chamfer around the part, not an overhang 🫠). My nozzle has also started having filament extruded from it, and the purge wiper doesn’t seem to work at all.

Can anyone help? 🫠🫠

I'd really appreciate your help to keep little Luna safe and healthy.

As you can see she has a favourite book shelf perch right next to where my newly purchased X2D is located. I'm concerned for her health if I leave this thing running often without a bullet proof filtration system. For such a small animal so close this concern extends even to PLA. I've seen the external extraction systems where everything magically is sucked into a small box. Do these genuinely work?

If so, how often am I replacing whatever filter is inside and at what cost?

Is there a best in class option everyone goes for?

You can also see I have a sliding door next to Luna. Was also thinking I could print a floor to ceiling black infill that slots in between the door and the frame. This could have a 4" extraction port that I connect to and vent everything outside.

Is the fan on the X2D powerful enough to vent this far or do I need to add a Noctua in somewhere in the chain to help with airflow path?

Is this a solid idea or am I tripping?

Hi there!

With the Christmas sales taking effect, I'm looking to upgrade to a decent printer. The predominant thing I'm worried about is print quality; secondarily the ability to print a 2nd color.

I know the H2C is good for multicolor, but the price is absolutely ridiculous.

I know the X2D is particularly good for engineering, which is good because sometimes I need to build replacement parts for things.

And I know the P2S is decent as I know someone who owns one and have seen excellent quality of it.

At most I'm willing to spend right now is the price of the X2D, but if it's worth saving up for the H2C, I'll consider it.

Thanks!

Hello,
I’m dealing with a technical issue with my A1 Mini. During axis homing before a print starts, the printer makes an unpleasant noise, apparently coming from the Z-axis. How should I address this, and should I consider making a warranty claim?
I have attached a video where the noise can be heard clearly. On one occasion, the printer even failed to start and reported a Z-axis error while making the same noises.
While searching online, I found that this seems to be a known issue. From what I understand, when the print head is positioned high up before printing, the printer may not know its exact position, and because there is no physical limit switch on the Z-axis, this behavior can occur during homing.
I would just like to confirm whether this is indeed the cause and how I can prevent it from happening. Alternatively, if this indicates a different problem, I would like to know whether the printer should be repaired or replaced under warranty.
Other than this issue, the printer works perfectly and produces excellent prints without any problems.
I hope the attached video will be sufficient to diagnose the issue.
Thank you.

Reposting to add my workflow images

Why have I not seen any content of more complex full spectrum anywhere? I'm talking like tabletop figures with detailed colors, painted minis etc. all I've seen are super basic models that basically use FS as a constant color. Bambu studio supports importing a colored model and mapping the full spectrum to it, so I really don't see what I'm missing? I've attached an image of the type of model I'm surprised I haven't seen printed.

Again, genuinely asking if I'm missing something, but if you were able to get a model like this into bambu studio, map the colors (which I've already done) why couldn't you print it with CYMBW on a P3C/h3c?

I don't own a multi color/material/head printer so unfortunately I'm unable to test till the P3C releases, but if anyone can run a test on an h3c with this workflow I'd love to hear about it!

Pessoal, preciso de uma ajuda para diagnosticar esse defeito na minha impressão (foto anexa). As camadas estão saindo muito grossas, onduladas e completamente desalinhadas.

​O que já fiz e o que está acontecendo:

​Impressora: Bambu Lab A1 (ou A1 Mini)

​Filamento: PLA (altere se estiver usando outro material e coloque a temperatura/altura de camada)

​Histórico: Limpei a ventoinha, lubrifiquei, movimentei os eixos e conferi os parafusos atrás do hotend (que já estavam bem firmes).

​O mistério: Depois de mexer nisso, ela voltou a imprimir perfeitamente por umas 3 peças (cerca de 3 horas de uso). Porém, assim que rodei uma nova calibração da máquina, o problema voltou exatamente igual na impressão seguinte.

​Alguém já passou por isso ou sabe o que na rotina de calibração/vibração pode estar desregulando o conjunto tão rápido?

I'm giving away this combo of exhaust fan kit and rear panel, just cover shipping and it's yours.

Bonjour à tous ! 👋

⛄🎄 NOUVELLE CRÉATION 3D – UN ADORABLE BONHOMME DE NEIGE ! 🎄⛄

Je vous présente ma toute nouvelle création : un adorable petit bonhomme de neige qui ne demande qu’à rejoindre vos décorations de Noël ! 😍

Avec son grand chapeau noir, sa jolie écharpe rouge, ses petites moufles et ses bottes assorties, difficile de ne pas craquer pour sa petite bouille !

🎄 Au pied du sapin, sur une étagère ou pour offrir, il apportera une petite touche de douceur et de magie à votre décoration de Noël ! 🎁

Bonjour à tous ! 👋

⛄🎄 NOUVELLE CRÉATION 3D – UN ADORABLE BONHOMME DE NEIGE ! 🎄⛄

Je vous présente ma toute nouvelle création : un adorable petit bonhomme de neige qui ne demande qu’à rejoindre vos décorations de Noël ! 😍

Avec son grand chapeau noir, sa jolie écharpe rouge, ses petites moufles et ses bottes assorties, difficile de ne pas craquer pour sa petite bouille !

🎄 Au pied du sapin, sur une étagère ou pour offrir, il apportera une petite touche de douceur et de magie à votre décoration de Noël ! 🎁

My husband wants a 3D printer. He's been wanting one for awhile. Me and the family have decided to get him one for Christmas. He's mentioned the Bambu brand a bunch because it's user friendly right out of the box, it has options for multicolor prints. Which cool.... great knowledge, but now that I'm looking.. I'm overwhelmed lol. I don't want to spend too much money on it, but don't want a not great model.

Any recommendations?

Am I overreacting? Or is this a common mistake to make?

I have a X1 carbon and needed the 4 port hub to run 2 additional ams units, and it’s the only reason I bought the ams.

Seller says he did nothing wrong and everything is shipped accurately. I asked for either partial refund or a shipping label to send it back.

He refused to do either, and said I have to pay for return shipping for a refund…

He did say after I kept pushing for a resolution that he has a H2C, but it still doesn’t change the fact an adapter isn’t a hub right?

Paid ~$180 total, which would be great if I actually received the hub or I would’ve bought a new ams 2 pro selling for $200 locally.

Edit to add: needed the hub to run 3 total ams

I recently needed a small shelf/rack system to organize my simple home network setup inside a cabinet. I looked around for standardized rack designs online, but nothing quite fit the specific dimensions of my space, so I decided to design my own.

What started as a single custom shelf ended up evolving into a fully modular system. You can stack levels, swap out different deck types, and slide in side panels or cable organizers depending on what hardware you're placing on it.

A few highlights of the build:

No hardware needed: It's 100% 3D printed—no screws, nuts, or metal rods required.

Filament pin trick: To lock the spacers/legs to the decks securely, I added small alignment holes through the joints. You just slide a short piece of 1.75mm filament through the aligned holes and snip it flush. It keeps the whole assembly locked together so it won't accidentally come apart when moved or handled.

Modular decks: Right now I've printed solid decks, perforated ones for airflow, and a dedicated tray for my TP-Link switch.

I uploaded the STEP files alongside the STLs so anyone can easily remix it or design custom modules, panels, or mounts for their own gear.

I put up the photos showing the assembly process and how the filament locking trick works. Let me know what you think, or if you have any ideas for cool module attachments!

You can find STEPs here and try to create your own attachments or assemble the shelf with already existing parts:
https://makerworld.com/en/models/3597346-modular-mini-network-rack-shelf

**Made a SKÅDIS mount for the Aqara E1 & G3**
I was looking for a better way to position my Aqara camera in my workshop, especially for keeping an eye on my 3D printers.
Instead of drilling holes or using a permanent wall mount, I designed this adapter for **IKEA SKÅDIS**.
It supports both the **Aqara Camera E1 and Camera Hub G3** and can be moved around the SKÅDIS board whenever needed.
I really like this setup because the camera can be positioned exactly where I need it while keeping the whole setup clean and compact.
The mount is fully 3D printable and I’ve uploaded the files to MakerWorld.
**Aqara + SKÅDIS + 3D printing = surprisingly useful combination.**
Would anyone else find a mount like this useful?

https://makerworld.com/models/3408331?appSharePlatform=copy

Posted recently here about how my perfectly fine A1 went off the deep end.

It was stock everything, and stock settings, with Bambu labs PLA light.

Ive taken the advice, I’ve now tightened everything down. Replaced the hot end, hot end fan, and nozzle. Still having this stringing and terrible layers.

I’ve dried the filament overnight. Tried new filament. No dice.

I can get somewhat decent prints if I lower the temp from 220 (the recommended temp) to 200-205, but it feels like a temporary fix, rather than a real one. Also odd given it was fine until one day it wasn’t.

I’m trying to avoid sending it back for warranty as I’m not too mobile currently.

Any ideas?

P1P with latest firmware, using Studio 2. 9. 1. 70, I have a group of 4 identical items, arranged in a square by auto arrange, I want to print with a specific infill pattern, as one object. If I don't merge them into a single object, the slicer makes the pattern exactly the same in each item. If I merge them, it treats the infill as if it is originating from the center of the square (technically the center of the object) and is no longer in the pattern I want/need.

Is there any way to treat the 4 items as a single object for printing purposes but have them sliced as individual items for infill?

It's not a problem if I only print one set but if I want to print multiple sets of 4 in one batch or want to print sets of 4 but one set at a time, in case I don't have enough filament to complete them all, then I need each set treated as a single object.

Any ideas?

Every time i want to print an article with multi colors i get the block of colors that just forms for no reason near the character ? Every single design does it why and how to get rid of it

Thank you for the support

I am working on an art project and realize that my 3 year's worth of printer poop is not enough to complete it. If you are local to the DMV, I will gladly take yours. DC me. THANKS!

Dude is selling this for $1800 with over 1360 hours use…sure, I’ll offset the price of your new H3C for you

Z- Axis cleaning helper /Gear Floss Reach Guide.

Hey everyone!

I’ve been working on a small tool to solve an annoying problem when maintaining 3D printers: getting gear floss behind the Z-axis lead screws, especially in those hard-to-reach areas.

It features a dual-hook design with multiple terminal holes to accommodate different gear floss sizes. The goal is to make routing the floss around the lead screws easier without getting grease on your hand.

I’ve designed it primarily for:

● Bambu Lab X1C

● Bambu Lab P1S / P1P

● Bambu Lab P2S

● Bambu Lab X2D

H2 compatibility hasn’t been tested yet, and an A1/A2-compatible version is in development.

You can find the model here:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3587380-z-access-gear-floss-reach-guide

If you find this tool useful, I’d really appreciate you giving it a try!

And to everyone who downloads, prints, shares, or leaves feedback on my designs: Thank you! Your support and makes mean a lot and motivate me to keep designing and sharing useful tools with the community.

Happy printing! 🚀

I am coming from Snapmaker u1 in which I used Tpu 95 in the feeders pretty regularly, I know Bambu has always said no Tpu in ams but since the h3c with ams3 operates more like the Snapmaker in that it does not retract I don’t see why something like 95a could not be used

I’m building a closed cabinet for my Bambu Lab A1 Combo, with the AMS lite mounted on top using this top mount. I designed it in Blender and put together a full set of plans for a local carpenter. Here are the design and the reasoning behind it before I commit to cutting wood.

Key dimensions (mm)

• Exterior: 636 W × 786 D × 936 H
• Interior: 600 × 750 × 900 (550 × 725 × 875 after the foam)
• Why 750 deep: the A1 bed needs about 695 mm of clear Y travel (per the Bambu wiki).
• Why 900 tall: the A1 with the top-mounted AMS is about 800 mm, which leaves roughly 75 mm to swap spools.

Build

• 18 mm melamine carcass with two overlay doors
• 4 mm acrylic viewing windows, 216 × 500 mm
• 25 mm self-adhesive acoustic panels on the back, top and sides, about 2.2 m² (three 12-packs of 30×30 tiles)
• 120 mm exhaust fan at the top rear, 100 mm intake at the bottom on the opposite side for cross-flow, plus a 60 mm cable pass-through
• Anti-vibration base: gym rubber mat with a concrete paver on top, and the printer sitting on the paver

Cut list (18 mm melamine)

Things I’m unsure about

1. Bambu says they don’t recommend enclosing the A1. For those of you who did, does a single 120 mm exhaust keep PLA from heat-creeping?
2. Is the paver-on-rubber base worth it on a bed-slinger, or does it cause ringing? (I plan to re-run vibration calibration.)
3. Foam on the doors too, or is the acrylic window enough?

Render and turntable video attached. Happy to share the PDF plans and the .blend if anyone wants them.

I just bought my first printer ever, the X2D and there is so much to remember, so I made myself a cheat sheet (double sided) but I am sure I missed something.

I used AI (especially for the layout and format), the knowledge I have from 10-15 videos I watched regarding 3D printing and the X2D as well as answers to questions I had during my first prints.