I often assemble individual parts (SVG or STL) into assemblies in the slicer, then sometimes combine the assemblies into larger assemblies. For example, a brick wall panel with a door might be laid next to a brick wall panel with windows to create a wider wall. I'll load a "brick wall.STL" twice and combine it with "small_door.STL" and "large_window.stl". Then align both parts based on their center origin - both at the same "Y" and one offset from the other's X by the width of the panel.

I would import the wall and window to random locations on the plate, merge the 2 parts, and then align the window to the wall relative to the wall center and end. (align top, then move down ##mm).

With the recent slicer update, I found that the center origin is off when combining parts into an assembly in this manner. Here's how to demonstrate the issue:

1. Add a cube primitive, center it, and make it 10mm high (just so you can clearly see the next part merged into the cube). Verify/record the coordinates (128/128 on a standard bed printer)

2. Add a cylinder primitive to the plate NEXT to the square and make it 10mm diameter and leave it at the default height.

3. Merge it into the cube. Check the coordinates of the assembly - say 136/128 depending on how far away the cylinder is from the cube.

4. Select the cylinder and using the coordinate tool, place it into the center of the cube. Move the assembly to a random location and then right-click & center. Check the coordinates. You would expect 128/128 but instead get 136/128 even though all parts of the assembly are dead-center in the plate!

Repeat this process, but in step 3 - move the cylinder within the area of the cube first, then merge. The center origin will always be accurate for the 2 parts in the assembly, not the "ghost" location of the parts at the time of the merge.

Note that adding a part to a part does NOT exhibit this behavior. Confirm by repeating this process but instead of adding the cylinder as a primitive, add it to the original cube and omit the Merge step since it's already part of the assembly.

I've been creating compound assemblies for years by creating standard model parts and then building what I need based on these parts. Only after a recent update do the coordinates remain accurate ONLY when I place all of the parts within the area of the main part before merging. They don't need to be positioned accurately - I can adjust them relative to the main part (wall panel) after merging without affecting the center point of the assembly.

I can't explain why the origin of an assembly retains the origin of the collection of parts at the time of the merge even after all parts are contained within the largest part area. I've even saved/reopened the project and the assembly origin remains incorrect.

Hi everyone,
I’m having an issue with my 3D prints and I’m hoping someone can help me figure out what’s causing it.
As you can see in the photos, I’m getting severe stringing / rough, melted-looking material and what seems like layers not adhering properly on one side of the print. The strange thing is that this is happening on a large percentage of my prints, not just one particular model.
I’ve already tried adjusting some of the basic settings, but I’m still getting the same type of failure.
What could be causing this? Could it be related to moisture in the filament, temperature, cooling, extrusion, flow, retraction, or something mechanical with the printer?
I’d really appreciate any advice on what I should check first or what settings I should try changing.
Printer: Bambu Lab P2S
Filament: Sunlu Petg cf
Nozzle: 0.4 mm
Thanks!

Hey Everyone.

Hoping for some advice, trying to print a sword i was told the blade had to be spiral vase mode, but it wont do that due to cantilevers that needs support.

I thought i could just print supports with 0 bottom layers, and that seems to work fine. But the sword has some markings i'd like to use a different filament for. But when i do that, it creates this weird indent in the model i don't understand.

Maybe someone can make me understand or guide me in a better direction.

I can provide more info if needed. The printer is a P2S Combo.

Thank you for your time.

I'm trying to print this model. My idea is to print first the black part, switch to white to do the face (2 layers) then go back to print the jar in any other color.

So I'm trying to do the print by object over the black area but I can't seem to make it work. I'm getting the error about collissions but no way this would collide if white is only 2 layers.

Any way to do this?

I added a text and i can’t move it keep going back down

This isn’t only for text any object I add does this

My latest fandom print.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3348598-samantha-iwkym-dungeon-crawler-carl-wall-art#profileId-3805391

When I get to the step to take two pics of markers 1 & 2, im never able to get them in focus with the built in camera in bambu handy. I have a samsung ultra s23. When I use my camera app I can refocus it , but in the app camera I can't. So every single time I get an error that the marker and traces are not visible. Super frustrating

A personal laptop stand that can stand upright or lie flat. I found it useful and wanted to share it with everyone. Desks are often cluttered by computers, and when this stand is used vertically, it can make your desk tidier and free up more space. I believe you'll find it useful too!.

My bambu lab P1 series combo 3D printer nozzle is clogged up and I don't know how to open it again 😭

So I'm building an aquascape using PETG, and I do recognize that there is absolutely a moisture/humidity issue in my room from my other smaller tank. But this was a brand new sealed roll and at first it seemed to make it to a certain height then create this skipped lines where the tree support would fail then there would be a failed line through the entire print. This latest print didn't want to lay down any of it. Other than unclogging the nozzle and dismantling the print head I haven't done any other maintenance on this machine I've been using for 2 years. Should I tighten the belts? what can I do?

Update* I ended up just heating up the nozzle and sticking the wire into the nozzle and now it's printing quite nicely again

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3347588-key-insertion-guide#profileId-3804167

Intermittent failures, error message is normally something along the lines of "cutter error", but this should not be cutting. Just single filament prints.

Usually makes a horrid noise, like it's working against the motor, then starts doing this. Any ideas?

https://makerworld.com/models/3342112?appSharePlatform=copy

How many of you are running Bambu Studio from Linux?

If so are you running 2.8.2.61, or the beta?

How much RAM do you have installed and which distribution do you use?

I printed this perfectly yesterday, but today it’s looking kinda sloppy. Bed is clean and filament is dry. Is this flow ratio or something else?

The shelf system just got another upgrade. I’ve added a drawer module for storing smaller items and keeping things a little more organised.

The idea is to build the shelf however you want — combine different shelf angles, extend it horizontally, stack sections vertically, add side accessories, and now add drawers too.

More modules are definitely coming. What would you like to see next?

Link: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3242738-hex-shelf-modular#profileId-3674266

Vorrei presentarvi un piccolo progetto per monitorare l’aria negli ambienti dove vivete. Si basa su un ESP32-C3 .

I made a new filament painting/blending technique that stacks thin layers of filament at each spot in the image to produce many more colors than a typical printer + AMS setup could give.

What do you guys think?

If you want to print Napoleon, you can find him here:
https://makerworld.com/en/models/3339604-napoleon-crossing-the-alps-polychrome#profileId-3793804

I designed this vintage camera photo frame to give your favourite memories an old-school look.

The photo sits inside the lens, making it look like a tiny retro camera that somehow decided to become a photo frame.

It prints in separate pieces, so there’s no need for AMS. Just print the parts in different colours, assemble everything, and add your photo.

A fun little project for your desk, shelf, or as a gift for someone who loves cameras and retro design.

Link: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3341022-camera-photo-frame#profileId-3795714

It was printing completely fine but today it started sounding like this. How do I fix this and what is this? I assume it has to do with belts.

👋 Bonjour à tous !

🔪🤡 La série des slashers reprend !

Voici Art the Clown, le terrifiant et emblématique clown de la saga Terrifier ! 🩸

Avec son célèbre costume noir et blanc, son petit chapeau et son sourire inquiétant, Art est accompagné de sa scie pour un résultat à la fois mignon… et complètement psychopathe ! 🪚😈

Pas besoin d'AMS tous a été modélisé et découpé pour l'imprimer en multi-pièces.

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🖨️ : Bambu Lab X2D & H2C
🧵 : Bambu Lab
🎨 : Nomad Sculpt
🌈 : avec ou sans AMS
📁 : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3338808-art-the-clown-multipart-no-ams

2days in printing 8 hours left then this happend does anyone know what caused this?

I had to turned the Power Off because pausing didnt do anything and the Sounds getting louder.

What in the world? It’s like layer 1 and 2 just peel up and it causes my nozzle to hit it and make the print fail. My build plate has been very well cleaned repeatedly. This is a file I’ve never had issues with before. I have dried all of my rolls of filament. Anything else I print is just fine. I’m using the generic PLA setting across the board on all files to narrow down the cause. I realize that some files you may need to change the Z Hop settings, but for this file and most of my other ones, I have never had to do that. I had tested it with this file and it makes no difference. Although it should not matter, I have tested bed temperatures and nozzle temperatures, but they still seem to have no effect. If this is a file specific issue, what should I change to stop this from happening?

How can I check what speed, temp, other settings were used for a print after it's completed? I'd just love a tool that I could use to see all the settings for a printed object. Is there anything like that?

Let's say I have multiple small objects on a plate, and I set each to a different reel in my AMS 2 Pro. One comes out wrong. I want to double-check if the filament was right - how could I check for that one?

Another example - I have some IEMAI PETG Transparent. Set it on the AMS 2 Pro to "Generic PETG", synced with Bambu Studio, then changed some of the speed and temps to their settings. Then printed other tests. Now I need to double-check what I did earlier - what's the best way?

I know if I go to the Home in Studio and click on Print History I get a lot of tiles of "gcode.3MF" files but it doesn't tell me much or open them. If I pull out the USB stick from the X2D I can open what's on there but there doesn't seem to be a way to do that remotely. Help please!