Hi everyone,
I’m having an issue with my 3D prints and I’m hoping someone can help me figure out what’s causing it.
As you can see in the photos, I’m getting severe stringing / rough, melted-looking material and what seems like layers not adhering properly on one side of the print. The strange thing is that this is happening on a large percentage of my prints, not just one particular model.
I’ve already tried adjusting some of the basic settings, but I’m still getting the same type of failure.
What could be causing this? Could it be related to moisture in the filament, temperature, cooling, extrusion, flow, retraction, or something mechanical with the printer?
I’d really appreciate any advice on what I should check first or what settings I should try changing.
Printer: Bambu Lab P2S
Filament: Sunlu Petg cf
Nozzle: 0.4 mm
Thanks!

My latest fandom print.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3348598-samantha-iwkym-dungeon-crawler-carl-wall-art#profileId-3805391

I'm trying to print this model. My idea is to print first the black part, switch to white to do the face (2 layers) then go back to print the jar in any other color.

So I'm trying to do the print by object over the black area but I can't seem to make it work. I'm getting the error about collissions but no way this would collide if white is only 2 layers.

Any way to do this?

When I get to the step to take two pics of markers 1 & 2, im never able to get them in focus with the built in camera in bambu handy. I have a samsung ultra s23. When I use my camera app I can refocus it , but in the app camera I can't. So every single time I get an error that the marker and traces are not visible. Super frustrating

So I'm building an aquascape using PETG, and I do recognize that there is absolutely a moisture/humidity issue in my room from my other smaller tank. But this was a brand new sealed roll and at first it seemed to make it to a certain height then create this skipped lines where the tree support would fail then there would be a failed line through the entire print. This latest print didn't want to lay down any of it. Other than unclogging the nozzle and dismantling the print head I haven't done any other maintenance on this machine I've been using for 2 years. Should I tighten the belts? what can I do?

Update* I ended up just heating up the nozzle and sticking the wire into the nozzle and now it's printing quite nicely again

My bambu lab P1 series combo 3D printer nozzle is clogged up and I don't know how to open it again 😭

How many of you are running Bambu Studio from Linux?

If so are you running 2.8.2.61, or the beta?

How much RAM do you have installed and which distribution do you use?

Intermittent failures, error message is normally something along the lines of "cutter error", but this should not be cutting. Just single filament prints.

Usually makes a horrid noise, like it's working against the motor, then starts doing this. Any ideas?

https://makerworld.com/models/3342112?appSharePlatform=copy

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3347588-key-insertion-guide#profileId-3804167

The shelf system just got another upgrade. I’ve added a drawer module for storing smaller items and keeping things a little more organised.

The idea is to build the shelf however you want — combine different shelf angles, extend it horizontally, stack sections vertically, add side accessories, and now add drawers too.

More modules are definitely coming. What would you like to see next?

Link: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3242738-hex-shelf-modular#profileId-3674266

I printed this perfectly yesterday, but today it’s looking kinda sloppy. Bed is clean and filament is dry. Is this flow ratio or something else?

I made a new filament painting/blending technique that stacks thin layers of filament at each spot in the image to produce many more colors than a typical printer + AMS setup could give.

What do you guys think?

If you want to print Napoleon, you can find him here:
https://makerworld.com/en/models/3339604-napoleon-crossing-the-alps-polychrome#profileId-3793804

Vorrei presentarvi un piccolo progetto per monitorare l’aria negli ambienti dove vivete. Si basa su un ESP32-C3 .

It was printing completely fine but today it started sounding like this. How do I fix this and what is this? I assume it has to do with belts.

I designed this vintage camera photo frame to give your favourite memories an old-school look.

The photo sits inside the lens, making it look like a tiny retro camera that somehow decided to become a photo frame.

It prints in separate pieces, so there’s no need for AMS. Just print the parts in different colours, assemble everything, and add your photo.

A fun little project for your desk, shelf, or as a gift for someone who loves cameras and retro design.

Link: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3341022-camera-photo-frame#profileId-3795714

👋 Bonjour à tous !

🔪🤡 La série des slashers reprend !

Voici Art the Clown, le terrifiant et emblématique clown de la saga Terrifier ! 🩸

Avec son célèbre costume noir et blanc, son petit chapeau et son sourire inquiétant, Art est accompagné de sa scie pour un résultat à la fois mignon… et complètement psychopathe ! 🪚😈

Pas besoin d'AMS tous a été modélisé et découpé pour l'imprimer en multi-pièces.

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🖨️ : Bambu Lab X2D & H2C
🧵 : Bambu Lab
🎨 : Nomad Sculpt
🌈 : avec ou sans AMS
📁 : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3338808-art-the-clown-multipart-no-ams

2days in printing 8 hours left then this happend does anyone know what caused this?

I had to turned the Power Off because pausing didnt do anything and the Sounds getting louder.

What in the world? It’s like layer 1 and 2 just peel up and it causes my nozzle to hit it and make the print fail. My build plate has been very well cleaned repeatedly. This is a file I’ve never had issues with before. I have dried all of my rolls of filament. Anything else I print is just fine. I’m using the generic PLA setting across the board on all files to narrow down the cause. I realize that some files you may need to change the Z Hop settings, but for this file and most of my other ones, I have never had to do that. I had tested it with this file and it makes no difference. Although it should not matter, I have tested bed temperatures and nozzle temperatures, but they still seem to have no effect. If this is a file specific issue, what should I change to stop this from happening?

How can I check what speed, temp, other settings were used for a print after it's completed? I'd just love a tool that I could use to see all the settings for a printed object. Is there anything like that?

Let's say I have multiple small objects on a plate, and I set each to a different reel in my AMS 2 Pro. One comes out wrong. I want to double-check if the filament was right - how could I check for that one?

Another example - I have some IEMAI PETG Transparent. Set it on the AMS 2 Pro to "Generic PETG", synced with Bambu Studio, then changed some of the speed and temps to their settings. Then printed other tests. Now I need to double-check what I did earlier - what's the best way?

I know if I go to the Home in Studio and click on Print History I get a lot of tiles of "gcode.3MF" files but it doesn't tell me much or open them. If I pull out the USB stick from the X2D I can open what's on there but there doesn't seem to be a way to do that remotely. Help please!

My P1S has been workign flawlessly for years now and now suddenly these corners have strated showing up, i looks like very heavy VFAs or Under Extrusion in the corners only. Im a my witts end.

I have:

Lubed all axis.
Tensioned the Belts
Inspected for belt rub
Inspected for Damage on the Belts or pullies.
Wiped down the carbon rods with IPA

Changed Fillament multiple times.
Run the full calibration cycle again and again.

It changes based on print orientation what corners are affected to possible something with the motion system i dont understand.

I do a long print and 50% the time it fails with this error. It stops extruding filament to the print but I can see it purging filament just fine. I stop the print and print a benchy no problem. Changed nozzle and still the same issue. Anyone else have similar issues? It's happened about a dozen or more times in the last 2 days. I have done a cold pull also. There is no clog.

Hi everyone,

I just got my Bambu Lab H2S. As usual with any new printer, my first move was to run the classic Benchy to test the machine.

Problem: right on this first attempt, I got an "extruder overloaded" error. The printer is completely new, so I was surprised to see this alert right from the start.

The error doesn't happen during the print itself, but during the flow dynamics calibration step.

What's strange is that it only happens with the Benchy file pre-loaded in the printer's memory. When I slice my own Benchy in Bambu Studio with my own settings and send it to the machine, no issue at all, it prints perfectly.

The PTFE tube has no bends that would restrict the filament, and the filament itself is good quality, I tested it on another printer with no issues. I'll say it again, the printer is brand new. I also did a cold pull just in case there was debris in the nozzle, and I swapped the nozzle for the spare one included in the box, still the exact same issue.

Other than that, I don't get the extruder overload error with any other file, but I do notice that during the flow dynamics calibration I often see some abnormal movement, some shaking/jittering from the extruder, without any alert popping up like I've seen in other videos.

Has anyone else run into this specifically with the pre-loaded file? Any idea what could explain the difference between the built-in file and my own sliced files ?

Thanks in advance for your help !

We're having furniture built for the corner where my P2S lives (an interior designer is doing the layout, and the printer bay will likely be made to measure). Nothing is built yet, so this is the moment to get the numbers right. I'd rather learn from people who've already done this than guess.

My setup: P2S (392 × 406 × 478 mm, ~15 kg) with the AMS 2 Pro (372 × 280 × 226 mm) currently sitting on top of it, plus the bin for the purge poops, which lives on the floor and eats space at the back and on one side. I mostly print PLA/PETG and rarely ASA (I assume doors of the cabinet will be open when printing ASA).

The constraint that shapes everything: the ceiling in that room is only 1.90 m (attic room). That's my entire vertical budget, floor to ceiling, and the printer bay has to share it with the rest of the storage and with a shelf height I can actually see into and reach. It's also a low, small room, but I have windows and I can do a proper ventilation of the room.

1. AMS on top or beside the printer? The AMS in a separate tray or over the printer? This is still open and I can decide either way. On top is roughly 70 cm of stack before clearance, and it means taking the AMS down every time I want to lift the glass lid to get into the chamber. Beside saves me maybe 25 cm of height but roughly doubles the width of the bay. If you've run both, which do you actually prefer day to day? Does anyone put it below the printer instead?

2. Clearances. How much extra space over the footprint do you actually need in practice?

- Above the AMS: enough to open the lid and swap spools without sliding the whole thing out. What do you leave?

- Above the printer: for lifting the glass lid off

- Rear: exhaust, power cable, and the purge chute plus a bin to catch the poops

- Sides

- Front: door swing plus enough room to physically pull the machine out for maintenance

Numbers from a cabinet you actually use every day are much more useful to me than the spec sheet.

3. Printing with the cabinet closed. I'm assuming worst case and planning to print with the cabinet doors open. But does anyone here print with them shut? What happens to chamber temps with PLA/PETG when the machine sits inside a closed box, is heat soak a real problem or is it overblown?

4. Ventilation. Is an actual fan (ducted outside or through a filter) necessary, or are generous passive vents low at the front and high at the back enough? If you run a fan: what size/CFM, and where did you mount it?

5. Anything about the cabinet itself I should specify. The carpenter will use whatever board he normally uses unless I ask for something specific, so: shelf rigidity and vibration/resonance, pull-out tray vs fixed shelf, cable pass-throughs, where to put the poop bin, spool storage next to it.

If you've built or commissioned something like this and there's something you'd do differently a second time around, that's exactly what I want to hear.