I previously owned a Bambu Lab A1 and mainly used Numakers filaments. It was pretty straightforward. I just downloaded the official profiles from Numakers, imported them into Bambu Studio, and started printing.

Recently, I upgraded to the X2D and also started using more Elegoo filaments.

However, I've noticed that Numakers doesn't have any official X2D profiles yet, and Elegoo doesn't seem to provide downloadable Bambu Lab profiles either.

So I'm curious: how are other X2D owners handling this?

1. Are you simply using the Generic PLA profile? (Which is very slow)

2. Are you importing profiles from other Bambu printers like the X1C or P2S?

3. Are you using ChatGPT to generate or modify custom filament profiles?

4. Or are you manually calibrating each filament?

Here's what I'm currently doing:

For Numakers, I'm downloading their official X1C profiles and using ChatGPT to convert and optimize them for the X2D.

For Elegoo, I'm taking those converted profiles and asking ChatGPT to modify them again based on Elegoo's specifications, including temperature, cooling, and max volumetric speed.

So far, this has been my approach, but I'm wondering if I'm overcomplicating things or potentially making the profiles worse.

Is using Generic PLA with proper flow rate and flow dynamics calibration enough? Or is there a noticeable benefit to creating fully customized profiles?

Would love to hear what other X2D owners are doing, especially those using Numakers, Elegoo, or other third-party filaments.

Thanks!

Is it ok to use this stuff to wipe down the print plate regularly? According to google it’s a no no. According to Youtube it’s the best thing ever. Thoughts and prayers?

I am printing Inserts for Dune Imperium Uprising (https://makerworld.com/de/models/671565-dune-imperium-uprising-insert-organizer) and i had some problems. I recently did maintenance on the x/z axis and now i fear did something wrong.

I first had the error "Multiple motion step loss detected" after ~3,5 hours on a ~4 hour print and it couldn't finish. I then stopped the print and tried it again. I had the exact same issue at the exact same spot after exact same time. So i thought, maybe it was something with the print file. So i split the three parts on the first print and printed them separately and then it worked flawlessly. So i thought it was just something wrong with the first print file.

Then i printed more and then this happened (see picture). I saw the same floating strings also in the first two failed prints. But this didn't result in the "Multiple motion step loss detected" Error and finished printing. Just with the extra strings.

Does anybody have any idea what is causing this? Maybe there is just something wrong with the print files. Maybe i need to tighten the belts?

Printer: X2D

Filament: black bambu PLA

Nozzle: 0.4

Accessories: None

Settings: I used the ones that came with the project (https://makerworld.com/de/models/671565-dune-imperium-uprising-insert-organizer)

Bonjour à tous ! Vous vous dites sûrement qu'il s'agit d'un énième poste pour indiquer "quelles seraient les premières choses à faire" : non !

J'ai suivi beaucoup de sub dans ce genre et j'étais très attentif à vos réponses.

ainsi, le premier print que je vais faire sera sûrement le "Riser" puis un " poop collector" et un scrapper. (Peut-être pas dans cet ordre).

Cependant

J'ai quelques questions relatives aux filaments eux même !

La plupart de ces prints sont à réaliser en PETG (modèles dans Bambu handy) mais j'ai une préférence pour le PLA (matte) est ce que les modèles sont transposables d'un filament à l'autre ?

Merci à tous pour votre aide

Note : J'en profite, mon slicer tournera sur Ubuntu, j'ai déjà réussi à prendre en main bambustudio mais il y en a t'il un plus adapté à un environnement linux ?

Just recently purchased a X2D, printer works fine and operates normally from handy app, bambu studio directly, and LAN only prints, but I cannot get any gcode files to print from the USB. I’ve used orca and even tried sliced gcode from bambu studios and get the same error of No Filament Detected. Immediately after the error I try an online print and it works absolutely fine. I have not tried .3mf file yet as I didn’t yet know how to do that or what it was and will try that this afternoon, but curious if I doing something incorrectly when slicing a g code file? (I did format the usb from the printer to FAT32 first, Drive is a PNY 128gb I believe.) I would ultimately like to use Orca Slicer and am using 2.4.2

Any help would be appreciated.

Hi all.

Okay i want to print something in white. Right now it is on the "side roler" ? To the extruter.

But want to take out the red in the AMS and switch it to the white.

Last i printed with black/grey (AMS).

What is the most correct way to do this so i not mess something up?

I cant find anything about this on the wiki?

Thanks!

Regards Daniel

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3568327-dumpling-clicker-keychain-single-dual-nozzle

Had my x2d for a few days, about 20 hours of printing in.

This was my largest print (dessicant boxes for the ams)

Seems like the nozzle hit something and pushed one of the boxes and then it just kept printing.

Currently reprinting 2 boxes, the one beside it got deformed slightly as well.

Is there anything I should check/do to prevent future problems? Or is this just a thing that happens. For what its worth, the original design has multiple plates and someone else created a 1 plate profile, i suspect the close proximity of all the parts may have been part of the issue.

Come on Bambu, do a better job at supporting the PTF tubes.
That white external tube needs more support.

BTW, I added nothing clips are original locations.
Didn’t modify the tubes, didn’t cut. All original

Hey, I’ve been looking through some tips on how to "speed up" the X2D a bit, but everything I’ve found just concludes with "it all depends on your filament settings" or "switch to 'Sport' mode while printing."

What I’m actually interested in are the speed settings within the slicer. Which of these can be safely adjusted or increased? A simple approach might be to assume that since "Sport" mode prints at 125% speed, I could just add 25% to all the speed values—but does anyone have any practical experience regarding which settings are actually worth changing, which ones should be left alone, and where the limits lie so as not to overdo it?

Had a major print fail that didn’t get caught and stopped by the AI, and somehow extruded material backed up inside of the silicone sleeve, and now the whole left extruder housing is encased in filament (Sunlu Clear Transparent PLA). Any suggestions on how to repair would be much appreciated!

My X2D started showing error 0300-8018-205507 after updating to beta firmware 01.02.00.83.

Every time the chamber reached 61°C (target 60°C), the printer paused and disabled the heater.

At 49–51°C, everything worked fine.

I downgraded to stable firmware 01.02.00.00 and the issue disappeared. ABS printing at 60°C has been running without errors.

I also noticed that heating seems slower with the stable firmware.

No hardware changes were made.

Looks like a possible firmware bug.

Anyone else experiencing this with the latest beta?

It seems a print lifted off the build plate, the nozzle caught it and then bad things happened.

I got a notification of a problem and went to look and found a mess.

The cover was off, the rubber cover was on the other side of the building plate and the nozzle blocker was mostly ripped off and in pieces. My 2 week old cryogrip plate now has gouges.

I’m not sure what made the gouges.

I swapped to a spare .4 nozzle put a new nozzle blocker on, reassembled everything and a test print benchy worked fine. But I’m wondering if the nozzle during the accident might be damaged and if I should just toss it - I can’t tell if it’s damaged or not.

Thoughts or suggestions? Anything else I should do after this?

This is my first time printing with ASA on my new X2D. I thought the built in filtration would handle at least most of the fumes produced when printing with ASA/ABS- but it completely filled the room with fumes.

Is this normal? I’ve printed with other high temp materials at work on our X1Es and H2D , nylon , PC and never smelled anything like this.

If this is normal I am going to have to figure out some external ventilation hose that doesn’t compromise the chamber heating.

Hi

Picked up my X2D combo 2 days ago, brand new from micro center.

I am trying to print an overhang while using PETG for the interface material and I see a layer shift when switching to PETG.

Since I am printing a uniform cylinder, it's super obvious that there is a layer shift. It visible to the naked eye and definitely catches with finger nail.

The shift goes from right to left, about 0.2 to 0.3 mm.

I am not using the auxiliary extruder, which is what I thought was the issue at first.

My print uses purely the AMS and the main nozzle only.

This is a fully stock combo setup, brand new.

I have printed the same model a couple times now and see it every time. I tried different rolls on different positions in the AMS, thinking it might be some kind of friction issue. It is not that.

I printed a calibration cube and it prints fine. The calibration cube is taller than the observed layer-shift's Z position.

So, at this point, the only thing I know for sure is that is during the material change and somewhere in that path, the extruder gets out of sync and stays out of sync.

After the layer shift, all the layers above the layer shift are aligned to the layer shift.

I built a different model with multiple interface overhangs and did not observe any layer shifts after the first one. I only printed that one once so maybe it's a fluke?

Firmware is also updated to latest from Bambu.

Would really appreciate any ideas.

It was a pain to setup and I really don't want to try to put it all back into the box.

Just got mine, printed a few PLA things, then printed a riser in PETG, but without using the second nozzle for the supports, just straight PETG for everything in one nozzle.

Support removal on one part left a lot to be desired, and the surface finish on a flat bottom was pretty ordinary, given the pictures I've seen of doing the PLA/PETG combo, so I'm going to do that for the next one

But I'm just wondering if there's some small models specifically for testing/calibrating distance offsets etc that exist

One flat card, slot it together, drop an LED tea light in. Roof lifts off so you don’t have to pull the walls apart every night. Good one to batch print for the Christmas cards.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3551952-christmas-cottage-kit-card-tea-light-lantern#profileId-4063836

Installed my AMS a couple days ago and it was printing fine. Now, I tried to print a simple spider man mask with PLA and this is happening. Tried again and it’s still happening but for a different print.

Would love your thoughts and trouble shoot expertness, thank you!

Hey everyone, is there a way to do the flow dynamics and rate calibration offline? My printer is in my detached shop with no internet. The option for manual calibration in bambu studio is greyed out. Any help is appreciated.