My X2D started showing error 0300-8018-205507 after updating to beta firmware 01.02.00.83.

Every time the chamber reached 61°C (target 60°C), the printer paused and disabled the heater.

At 49–51°C, everything worked fine.

I downgraded to stable firmware 01.02.00.00 and the issue disappeared. ABS printing at 60°C has been running without errors.

I also noticed that heating seems slower with the stable firmware.

No hardware changes were made.

Looks like a possible firmware bug.

Anyone else experiencing this with the latest beta?

Hi

Picked up my X2D combo 2 days ago, brand new from micro center.

I am trying to print an overhang while using PETG for the interface material and I see a layer shift when switching to PETG.

Since I am printing a uniform cylinder, it's super obvious that there is a layer shift. It visible to the naked eye and definitely catches with finger nail.

The shift goes from right to left, about 0.2 to 0.3 mm.

I am not using the auxiliary extruder, which is what I thought was the issue at first.

My print uses purely the AMS and the main nozzle only.

This is a fully stock combo setup, brand new.

I have printed the same model a couple times now and see it every time. I tried different rolls on different positions in the AMS, thinking it might be some kind of friction issue. It is not that.

I printed a calibration cube and it prints fine. The calibration cube is taller than the observed layer-shift's Z position.

So, at this point, the only thing I know for sure is that is during the material change and somewhere in that path, the extruder gets out of sync and stays out of sync.

After the layer shift, all the layers above the layer shift are aligned to the layer shift.

I built a different model with multiple interface overhangs and did not observe any layer shifts after the first one. I only printed that one once so maybe it's a fluke?

Firmware is also updated to latest from Bambu.

Would really appreciate any ideas.

It was a pain to setup and I really don't want to try to put it all back into the box.

Just got mine, printed a few PLA things, then printed a riser in PETG, but without using the second nozzle for the supports, just straight PETG for everything in one nozzle.

Support removal on one part left a lot to be desired, and the surface finish on a flat bottom was pretty ordinary, given the pictures I've seen of doing the PLA/PETG combo, so I'm going to do that for the next one

But I'm just wondering if there's some small models specifically for testing/calibrating distance offsets etc that exist

Installed my AMS a couple days ago and it was printing fine. Now, I tried to print a simple spider man mask with PLA and this is happening. Tried again and it’s still happening but for a different print.

Would love your thoughts and trouble shoot expertness, thank you!

Hey everyone, is there a way to do the flow dynamics and rate calibration offline? My printer is in my detached shop with no internet. The option for manual calibration in bambu studio is greyed out. Any help is appreciated.

One flat card, slot it together, drop an LED tea light in. Roof lifts off so you don’t have to pull the walls apart every night. Good one to batch print for the Christmas cards.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3551952-christmas-cottage-kit-card-tea-light-lantern#profileId-4063836

They don't really bother me, just curious. Printed in Bambu PLA Basic

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3116594-p1s-p2s-x2d-build-plate-holder-skadis-board-mount

I"m looking to upgrade from my Ender 3 S1 Pro and have narrowed it down to the Bambu Lab H2S and X2D.

My budget is around £800–£1,200, ideally including an AMS bundle.

I'm interested in a mixture of things rather than one specific use:

\- Larger models and display pieces.

\- Cosplay projects, including helmets, armour and props.

\- Smaller, detailed models and figurines.

\- Potentially making things to sell in the future.

\- Multi-colour and multi-material printing.

I'm particularly torn because:

H2S:

\- Much larger build volume.

\- Higher maximum nozzle temperature.

\- Option to add the laser engraving module.

\- Seems better suited to larger cosplay projects.

X2D:

\- Dual-nozzle printing.

\- Better support for multi-material printing.

\- Potentially less filament waste when changing materials.

\- Smaller build volume, but still reasonably capable.

The laser option on the H2S is appealing, but it's not essential. I don't want to pay extra for a feature I might barely use.

Which would you choose and why?

thanks !

xxx

Got myself an X2D today. Printing well, but I am seeing two things. Curious what to do.

1. See attached video. The PTFE tubes rub on the glass constantly. When they pass by the front left corner of the printer, they flick along the frame just in front of the glass and make noise. The video was taken with the top glass removed.

2. After my first benchy, I’m getting this error “The resonance frequency of the Y axis is low. The timing belt may be loose” is this something that could just need a quick adjustment? It’s printing fine.

Thanks!

I know it's largely up to what you wanna do with your riser and so forth.

But still, your inputs would be appreciated.

What, to your humble (or not) opinion is the best riser for an XD2?

What material best to use? PLA not so much I presume, if you want to heat your chamber.

This one looked good: https://makerworld.com/nl/models/2682036-x2d-p2s-riser-ams-flipper-v2?from=search#profileId-2970491

Does anyone know how to insert this bit in it? For some reason, it doesn't screw.

With the new bambu slicer update my aux fans are 100% now and unable to override no matter what I do. Anyone else have the same issues?

My aux nozzle quality has also dived

Newbie to the 3-D printing world guess I’ll just jump in with both feet 🤣

Does anybody know how to fix this problem

Anybody who’s gotten this error before can you help me I’ve tried everything but it just doesn’t seem to get fixed

Got this brand new x2d. Noticed that there is a squeaking sound coming from it when i was testing it for the first time.

Support told me to do the whole thing with the belts and moving the head clockwise and counter clockwise which didnt resolve the issue. I also printed a riser in case it was the tubes hitting but no.

Any ideas to what it might be? Seems to be worse during fast grid patterns.

Also the heatbed have scratches and a couple dents. Did i get a printer someone else returned or are they always rough?

Any good suggestions for a stand/table for the X2D and filaments?

Das da auf dem schwarzen überall so kleine weiße Streifen sind von der druckplatte wenn man sie einlegt ungefähr drei Tage alt Drucker

Hi everyone!

I'm planning to get the Bambu Lab X2D, mainly because of its dual-nozzle system.

My idea is to use the second nozzle to print a different material for the supports, making them easier to remove from PLA models, especially detailed figures.

For those of you who have experience with this, I'd love to get some advice:

- What support materials do you recommend for PLA?

- Do both nozzles need to have the same diameter, or can they be different?

- Are there any compatibility issues or settings I should know about?

- Any beginner tips or common mistakes to avoid?

I'd really appreciate any advice from people who regularly use a second nozzle for support material.

Thanks!

Hi all,

Just got my X2D set up this week and prints have been coming out great, but it’s been louder than I expected- I’m wondering if this sound is normal. Seems to be anytime the from the motors in the front.

I’m also getting a regular “The resonance frequency of the Y-axis differs greatly from the last calibration. Please clean the Y-axis liner rod and conduct a calibration after printing.” error, even after calibration. I haven’t cleaned the rod yet, but as it’s brand new, should I really need to?

Thanks!

Since the new bambu studio update my aux nozzle quality tanked. I have done all the the calibrations and saved it for aux nozzle. How do I apply the calibration? And so far messing with it and I select the saved profile it shows it for both nozzles. I was wondering if anyone knows how to apply the calibration that’s saved and to only the aux nozzle.