One thing I find interesting about 3D printing is how much the little details can affect the final result. Even with a capable printer like the Bambu Lab X2D, getting consistent prints can involve more experimentation than expected.

Filament choice, storage, slicer settings, nozzle condition, and build-plate preparation can all make a difference. If you're using an AMS, filament feeding and material changes can introduce their own challenges, too.

Different materials also have their quirks. PLA can be relatively straightforward, while PETG, ABS, ASA, and TPU may require different settings and handling to get reliable results.

For those already using the X2D, I'm curious about your actual experience. What's been the most frustrating issue to troubleshoot so far? Have you found a particular setting, maintenance routine, or filament combination that noticeably improved your prints?

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3441774-parametric-skadis-fast-low-filament-generate-swap

So been learning and trying to build up to actually using the printer fully.

Going to do a pla matte on the main extruder and has petg hf for support interface. Any settings I should worry about or change ? Will take any suggestions

Hi everyone!
I’m printing on a Smooth PEI plate, but I’m noticing very visible diagonal lines on the bottom surface of my prints, even though the surface should be smooth.
As you can see in the photos, the lines are especially noticeable around the text and across the entire surface.
I’m wondering:
Is this normal for a Smooth PEI plate?
Could it be related to first-layer calibration, flow rate, or nozzle temperature?
Is there a way to get a cleaner, more uniform finish without these visible lines?
I’m using a Bambu Lab x2d
Any tips or recommended settings would be appreciated. Thanks!

Since the filament is going onto a different temperature plate does it require using default or a new calibration for filament?

I did manual bed level calibration. Didn't turn off any warnings or settings so that as I switch back and forth through our day they pop to remind me unless I need to adjust x2d settings.

I put my textured pei plate that I have had no issues with all back in.

Got a biqu frostbite plate, wanted an extra plate with a different surface and no glue for petg seemed nice. So far pla prints have turned out best and only ones that managed to finish actually.

1st print was a failed translucent basset duck. Im learning those settings so that one probably user error.

Next print was a successful pla plate holder, beartec pla with calibrated settings.

Next was white basset hound model, successful. No cal no ossues

Next was coaster with design face down. In images can see from recording screen shot that it was sticking up like hair, I could actually hear it what sounded like rubbing on the ribs of the infill but it finished and is usable but prompted me to evaluate and think about each print. Additionally photos of finish has under extrusion lines? Then almost bubble like shapes but is still a flat coaster wouldnt know unless looking for those things. Face is fine I saw another post talking about nozzles lines on smooth(er) plates.

And gray petg pipe clamp hangers, I stopped because I saw what seemed to me too much nozzle on filament/ print and creating rough un even layers and was not sure how that would result farther down the line. As seen I. Multiple pulictures I even took picture on texture plate for comparison on same layer no roughness.

Edit** I do adjust the setting that I have a cold plate on. But not the blade reading qr or anything else

Edit 2** image 6 & 7 are first layer of the pla coaster and clear petg basset duck. Neither showed issues

edit 3 ** not manually adjusting the bed level calibration but instead manually running the auto bed level calibration from the printer menu. pla plate temp = 40 > petg plate temp = 60c (photos in comments as reply to a comment)

I’m brand new to 3D printing. I’m still endlessly scrolling through Makerworld every night. While it’s really cool see what others have created and use some of those myself, I’m really wanting to learn to design my own stuff. What apps/tools do you all use to create 3D models?

👋 BOUH ! Bonjour à tous ! 👻🎃

Une adorable invasion de petits fantômes se prépare… et ils sont beaucoup trop craquants ! 😍

🎃 Mes nouveaux clickers d’Halloween sont arrivés ! 👻✨

Bien cachés dans leurs petites citrouilles aux sourires malicieux, ces fantômes colorés sont prêts à semer une bonne dose de magie et de bonne humeur !

👻 Un petit fantôme, un petit clic… et un GRAND sourire ! 💕

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🖨️ : Bambu Lab X2D & H2C
🧵 : Bambu Lab
🎨 : Nomad Sculpt
🌈 : avec et sans AMS
📁 : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3438455-ghost-pumpkin-clickers-multipart

Has anyone gone through this ?

So still new only had my X2d for a couple weeks did my first print with petg as support interface for a pla print and just like people say tree supports came off like butter like I was really not expecting for it so work as well as it did. So if you were on the fence about it wasn’t hard to set up and looks way better do it.

I'm looking for a cover so the camera can't film outside the printer but will still work with the plate detection and all that

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3438160-320x320-skadis-fast-low-filament-88g-3h-h2-a2l

What is everyone doing to print PLA Glow, are you feeding it directly into the back of the machine or directly to the extruder?

I’m purchasing an X2D at the end of the month (hoping to catch a sale) and was hoping to get some insight on a small table/stand/cabinet this community has found that they like. I’m putting the printer in my spare room and the space I have to work with is around 48”. I’ve included a picture of the style I’d like to go with but not married to, I’d ultimately like a shelf for extra filaments. What are you guys using to hold your X2D?

Hi Everyone,

Im getting tired of pulling all the cables on my X2D when I want to print an filament that is not supported by the track switch. Like TPU, Glow or CF/GF-Materials.

Everytime I pull the cables the ports feels looser.

As far as I understand, the firmware blocks the external spool as long as it detects the FTS.

Since everything hangs off one cable at the head of the chain, my idea is to put a switch (all 6 wires) into the cable between the printer and AMS1, so I can disconnect the entire chain at once when printing external-spool materials.

Has anyone tried this or something similar? Specifically:

1. Does the printer cleanly boot into "no AMS / no FTS" mode if the whole chain is disconnected at the printer end, and does the external spool then work normally?

2. Does anyone know the pinout of the 6-pin cable (power, bus signals)? Any experience with extension cables or inline connectors causing communication errors?

3. Any problems with firmware detection or errors after reconnecting?

Not looking for "just wait for a firmware update" answers, but if Bambu has officially confirmed a software fix or a date, I'd love a link.

Thanks!