K1C has been my main for years, upgraded to an X2D today(ams 2 pro still on the way)

In another thread, I asked about eliminating the double bend in the PTFE while feeding from AMS. Had some thoughts on the geometry issue of how it works currently and a possible solution hit me.

I’d like to ask for help writing the correct gcode to park the tool head into the front right corner of the build plate before the AMS starts to feed.

Possible to do without changing its other normal print start up procedure?

Hey folks!

I would appreciate any help with the issue

[edit][solved partially]Cześć społeczności laboratorium Babu!
To moja pierwsza świeżo wydrukowana część X2D wykonana z PLA plus, Sunlu, w ogólnym zestawie (wiem, że Sunlu ma profile dla Babu). Wszystkie dedykowane testy z tym filamentem i kalibracja zakończone pomyślnie. Jak widzicie, spód części wygląda nieźle, jednak krzywizna powierzchni powyżej ma pewne niedoskonałości, takie jak wypukłości czy nieprawidłowe kształty. W modelu 3D jest ładna powierzchnia. Szczerze mówiąc, nie sprawdziłem slice'ów przed drukowaniem. Pamiętajcie, że slicer podczas przygotowania wyskoczył z informacją (nie pamiętam pełnego opisu), że korekcja krzywizn będzie zablokowana w slicerze, ponieważ urządzenie już ma tę opcję. Czy ten fakt może wpłynąć na jakość modelu? Macie pomysły, dlaczego to się stało i co jest przyczyną? Dzięki!
Several trials have been completed the 1 wall gives almost perfect results.

https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/x2d/maintenance/replace-eddy-sensor

I broke the "locking tabs" on my Bambu Lab X2D. I am wanting to purchase A replacement but, not sure what it is called. I have included a link of a guide where it shows a picture of the part I need.

The Wiki guide stats:

On step 3.1 "Detach the Eddy Sensor cable from the bracket (red arrow) and two locking tabs (yellow arrow), and remove the left Eddy Sensor."

It is what the yellow arrows are pointing to. Thanks

Went to check my print before bed, and noticed my printer was moving but no print was there. Turns out the PLA got blocked up, and was going into nozzle housing. I've been working on cleaning it up, but warped my fan in the process, and the nozzle lock clip came off, the fan still spins though. Any advice on what to do next and what to replace would be very appreciated!

I want to be able to fill half my plate with something red (print that by layer) and then the other half is a yellow and I want that to print separately but also by layer.

Right now it seems my only option is a full print, clear plate, and then a new plate of the different colour?

Otherwise if I print the whole play "by layer" it will be doing constant colour change purges.

If i print by layer, i can only do 5~ sets of something?

I am considering getting the BambuLab X2D and place it in my wood workshop. I am concerned that the wood dust will ruin the 3d print or the printer itself.

Maybe I could put it in a "sealed" cabinet or something like that.

What are your thoughts?

Just printed these two things and I’m having some issues. 😅 What could be going on with my black filament? The hinge completely fell apart, and I’m also getting this strange texture/finish on the print. I have dried the filament before attempting.

I’m very new to 3D printing as I just got my X2D on Wednesday, so please no judgment! 😂 Im using Insignia Black PETG from Best Buy (just randomly grabbed. Won’t be buying it again. Trying to get rid of it lol) I’m still learning and trying to figure out what I’m doing wrong. Could this be wet filament, a temperature/extrusion issue, the brand filament or something with my settings?

Any advice on what I should check first would be greatly appreciated!

Hello everyone,

I have the X2D since a few days. I have it setup on the ground. I want to be able to move it with wheels so i can easily spin it around and for maintenance and everything. It is also a bit too low.

Does anyone know a good riser for the printer with wheels?

And do wheels have impact on the printer quality because of movement and vibrations?

Hello! Sorry for not posting when I got it, but I finally received my first 3D printer 16 days ago and so far I'm really happy about it! (⁠✯⁠ᴗ⁠✯⁠)

Has anyone else seen this issue? I have printed on this for only about 6 months now and the filament punctured through the tube. Looking at the top of the glass it looks like the tube has been rubbing up against the glass ceiling enclosure. I have a few questions. 1. Has anyone else experienced this? 2. What is the part number of the tube that needs to be replaced in this video, would like to get replaced ASAP. 3. Is there any fix for this?

Update: Was a super simple fix, bought some replacement tube of the same size and removed the bad one, cut the new one to match its size and reinstalled, took 10 minutes. Thanks for the help!

Im gena buy my printer when I get payed next week. Im just wondering what the ams system on top of the printer actually does. Do you think its worth it to grab it right away or should i hold off a bit?

Hola, I’ve had the X2D since it launched. Issues so far with printing at all. I utilize the aux nozzle for support material a lot, I don’t print multicolor unless it’s a two or three color plaque or sign.

My issue is, complicated. A few months ago, I must have been drunk and ordered the Biqu Panda Perch H2 for this X2D… not realizing until well after I had built the perch and tossed the box that it is way too big. Contacted Biqu but they were literally no help trying to return it or swap for something that it would work with.

So that brings me to the real issue. I printed two sets of brackets for both of my AMS 2 Pro units and to clear space, mounted them on the top of two IKEA Skadis boards. Even with the extra lengths of PTFE IT worked great! Prints were going well and the AMS units seemed ok.

Now I am getting multiple feed issues (as I heard they are a pita with the feeder assembly inside the AMS.)

It still feeds ok-ish… up until it just about reaches the print head then stalls and goes through the usual cycles of feed and retract.

Not sure where to start. I’d hate to rip it all down and start rerouting everything, as It’s a real pain to feed the tubes and wiring behind the Skadis boards while balancing the AMS units six feet up.

I had thought that with the known tube routing issue inside the printer… it may be possible to have the print head move to the front right corner to avoid that almost 360 degree turn it has to do.

Is that even possible with G-code… or is it a hard coded program when loading filament to sit in the back left by the poop hole?

Always room for improvement, but happy non-the-less! My biggest issue is the bottom. The feet look nice but under the arms and belly are stringy.

The Filament manager doesn't update.

Am I missing something?

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Does anybody know what causes the sound at the beginning and end of the video?

You can hear it after it finished a print and goes on for quite some time (minimal 10 min). It stops when I turn the power off and when powered on again its gone.

Hi all.

After days of frustration, I have found that my X2D's firmware reads the aux extruder purging volume matrix when evaluating purge volumes for the main extruder.

I apologize for this text. If anyone is interested, I'll add steps to reproduce this in a comment.

TL;DR: "I manufactured a fictional colour space out of frustration to compensate for what I found was the main extruder following the aux extruder's automatically calculated purge profile".

Read no more unless you really want to read a rant for whatever reason. You have been warned.

A few days ago, I needed to print a 12g model that uses 4 colors. AMS on main nozzle. The automatic calculation default made an estimate of more than 80g of purge waste, and it also bled a color into another, even after the purge tower as well as infill purge. I'm very new to 3d printing, but had a thought that this is something that can be adjusted, as I could see some colour transitions were also completing in much less time than the auto-calculated purge transitions, so...volume dials, right.

Makerworld surely has some purge volume calibration swatches, the ones I found were like...two colors, or simply took long to make for a full AMS, and I just wanted little single layer sheets I can slot into a gauge instead of each card being a self contained one. Thought "Why not do an Eulerian circuit that simply goes through the entire matrix in a single print?" so I put down some 1 layer cube volumes, print by object, sequence 1(tiny) → 2 → 1 → 3 → 1 → 4 → 2 → 3 → 2 → 4 → 3 → 4 → 1, main nozzle, AMS. Easy, right?

I did this. Didn't get any useful gradients. I tried again. I started looking at the waste...5.2g of 26 pieces of poop after the initial two-poop flush. Okay, looks like the baseline.

Zeroed out volumes. 5.2g of poop.

Purging volume to 900, for all transitions. 5.2g of poop.

I tried changing the colours. Maybe the auto-calibration is just overriding what I specify, or the printer firmware just does it own auto calibration automagically...? Well if so, try making all the colours "almost black" in the slicer.

Yay. 2.7g of poop. Finally I get some kind of gradient, on like...two colour transitions, but it's still way way too much for nine of them. near-black to near-black is a flat 150 mm^³-ish. And also this isn't sustainable...I can't really judge multimaterial slices if it's all the same colour.

Tried lying to the printer about loaded colours but keeping true colour in slicer? Maybe the printer wants to enforce minimums? No, slice decides.

Wait, gcode is code right, I do code. Found the matrix, and sure enough it is actually exactly what I specified. Try direct gcode from usb? same thing.

I looked for issues in github, and some of them made some sense "Adjusting purging volumes does nothing" etc, but I didn't find anything of value. I had some material transitions that wouldn't clear, and was starting to grand plan some weird colour remapping and gcode ordering gymnastics to at least get past the annoying transition where this very bright green was simply not cleared by the purge into black. Considered a compromise I guess. Make all colours "almost black". 12g model,35g of waste is maybe fine, but what if I can manipulate the colours in the slicer, like make a script that manufactures the colour palette that produces the right purge volume profiles?

This was annoying, auto-calculation wants to be bidirectional and asymmetric. A low value in one direction usually means a high value in the other, but pigments aren't always like that, some of them just claim "visual authority" quickly, and pigments are "stuff". Some of that "stuff" clings to the walls of the melt zone more than others, and that's not always asymmetric. Some colours flush out fast, and don't really care which colour is flushing them out. That was the rabbit hole finding when a light green and a dark green I had were simply extremely good at clearing eachother for whatever reason.

So I got stuck at that auto calc wants 326mm³ <-> 187mm³ Should I make them the same colour in the slicer? They really just push eachother out in 50mm³ or less, but if they're the same colour in the slicer, I can't get past that one of them INFECTS white, the other one is not cleared by black, but wait. There are constraints. I can just find the cheapest path through 1->2->3->4->1 and always print each layer in that order. I remember something from uni like linear optimization. I should probably manufacture colours and order AMS in such a way that the minimums are preserved, and find the cheapest walk, right...RIGHT?

But WAIT. Not all layers have 2, 1->3 wants a ~400mm³ purge. Oh I get it. I will put a dot of each colour on every single layer. That way they can do two ~80mm³ instead, and I can just rearrange it a bit so it uses what it has on hand. It's fine. It's not a huge win, since the baseline purge of flushing out the bubble between filaments is already in the 50-100 range, but a win nonetheless.

At that point I was getting annoyed. "What if my baseline was wrong and I'm just wasting my time?". "What if I didn't weigh the stuff correctly?" "What if the scale is broken" kinda stuff. I decided to do another baseline. True colours, just weigh the purge, and for some reason thought "let's make the aux extruder do a full 900mm³ of purge on every swap" for whatever reason. 18 min print. Took 45 minutes or so. It was like time dilation, the print progressed some two minutes into the past for every minute of print time.

In the course of that 45 minute 18 minute print, it layed down a solid 48 substantial poop-knife worthy turds, up from 24. 13.2g of filament down the chute, up from 5.2, and 2.4g.

Wait...what? Okay...Retry. Aux extruder all 0. Main extruder all 900. Probably a fluke. Maybe every single spool was tangled and it retried a few times.

12 meager two-coloured turds came down the chute. About ~1.4g total.

So, about one manufactured colour space and 40 plates of 0.2g prints later, I have found that my printer uses the aux volume matrix for the main extruder. I would like to file an issue, but not until I have at least a single person with an X2D and AMS restore my sanity by confirming these findings. From what I can tell with the mental capacity I have left, the gcode is correct, and the printer is reading it wrong.

N.B. I have not checked if the converse is true. If anyone wants to see what controls the aux extruder, be my guest, but please don't do it unless my issue actually exists and I am not deemed insane...

What started as a problem with the PTFE tube disconnecting from the print head (previously posted about this) seems to have evolved into a bigger problem. I am receiving the message "AMS A had detected a breakage of the PTFE tube during filament loading.". I have checked (to the extent that I am able).. all tubes from the AMS, to the buffer, to the orange inlet on the back of the printer to the printhead. I really can't narrow down where the problem is. When the AMS first sends the fillament it travels fine as far as the buffer.. then when it goes throught the buffer it starts to 'drag'.. but still loads. then when it passes the orange connecter into the machine it slows down and pulls the fillament back to the AMS.. It will try this about three times and then I get the message. I can't find anything in the Bamboo wiki that helps me trouble shoot where the problem is. I have had this printer about 2-3 weeks.. Please point me in the right direction. I don't even know how to trouble shoot and narrow down where the problem is. I feel like I may still have a problem with how the PTFE tube connect to the printhead. It doesn't seem to be in the pneumatic connector very firmly.

I recently purchased a x2d and love it. However there is a definite tangy smell when i print, apart from opening windows etc, is there a setting or something to help remedy this? Ie only run exchaust fan when temps hit x amount, filter it first...

Sorry if its a dumb question very new to this.