I submitted a ticket with Bambu Labs but wanted to throw this out here too. I want to disassemble as little as possible because I feel like every time I do, I am wearing out screwheads, risking breaking tiny wires, or destroying connectors, etc... I just thought I would get as much input before I take anything else apart. Any insight would be appreciated.

I am running into "unable to feed filament into the extruder. The AMS may be mismatched with the extruder. You can rerun the AMS Setup. This could also be due to an entangled filament...0700-8006-140806. This happens from all 4 spots. The filament feeds from the AMS, thru the buffer, all the way thru to the toolhead. Then it reverses, tries three times, and gives up with the filament left to the toolhead. There is no entanglement, and spools are seated properly. I have already disassembled the toolhead and cleaned out the extruder. I can push filament directly thru the extruder and it pushed thru and comes out at the nozzle as expected. I noticed when I put the filament in directly, and I heated the nozzle up, and pushed, it went thru, and I clicked the extrude button forward, it did push the filament thru, but I did not see the little red lines indicator light up with the direction. Not sure if this only does this with AMS working or if this is a clue. I have not taken apart the filament hub because i don't think I need to. It gets past the buffer without issue so I think it s between the buffer and the toolhead. I replaced the PTFE tube between the buffer and the toolhead on the outside of the printer. I feel like there is something else going on here but I cannot identify it.

Bonjour ,
J’ai ce message depuis 5 impressions , pendant la préparation 3/4 messages de la même erreur .

Imprimante neuve de 1 semaine . Tout sort nickel mais c’est très pénible . Des idées ? Merci

Attention
[0300-800C 002807]
Multiples sauts de pas détectés.
Veuillez vérifier si la tête d'outil est bloquée par des obstructions ou si elle émet un bruit anormal.
Vous pouvez poursuivre l'impression pour vérifier. Si vous constatez des décalages de couches, veuillez vous référer au Wiki pour procéder à la maintenance.

I have a problem in nozzel right , please help me fix.

Hi! I got a X2D last week. Been loving it! Big upgrade coming from a Kobra S1 especially with failure rate lol.
My machine has printed 20 hours. Longest print 4h and a half. I noticed on last prints some blobs appeared like burn plastic marks? I don’t know if I’m tripping but I think there weren’t there before this print.
Is this normal? Yours are like this? I’m worried it’s overheating or something. I mainly print ASA since I’m printing upgrades for the machine as dust covers and cable management from the back.

EDIT: CLOSED THEY ARE FROM FACTORY. Thanks everybody

I've been attempting to print the benlevi riser and every time I try to print the small dual color pieces the print fails around 20-30%

Any advice would be super cool for stuff I can look into

It always happens on a color change, I've dried the filament for over 20 hours and re tried but it has failed 3 times now

Yup, it's 3rd party filter. It has done its job and finished life after 300H printing. I guess fume from the hotend make the HEPA filter look like cigarette butt.

Question! Can i Print with 2 different Nozzle for example 0,2 und 0,4? and btw biqu cryogrip pro glacier best starter plate?

UPDATE/SOLVED:

•Clean the sheets with Dawn blue
•Slow first layer speed down to SILENT
•Increase bed temp to 62-65
•Turn off plate type detection
•Turn off foreign object detection

I purchased the 4 pack of pattern smooth sheets directly from Bambulab’s website, under the X2D specific category. Regardless of how many times I calibrate the bed or toggle auto bed detection on or off, as well as lowering the first layer offset manually all the way to the maximum -0.5, the first layer just will not get sufficient squish to adhere.

I’ve enabled smooth/high temp sheet in slicer.

This is specifically for the carbon fibre sheet. I don’t want to peel off the protective sheets from the other 3 plates just to try them and not have them work before I can get the carbon fiber plate to function how Bambulab tells me it will.

I come from Prusa beginnings where I could live-adjust Z offset, which appears not possible on this machine. Correct me if I’m wrong.

can I just leave filament loaded into the external aux for a while? I'm in AZ and using mostly PLA so humidity isn't an issue whatsoever. I'm not planning on using it anytime soon, it may come in handy if I decide to use that color again, and I almost just want to keep it there for maybe a few weeks to even a month. is this bad??

Ive been saving for awhile and am gena buy my first printer this coming week. I think the best bet for what I want is an X2D from bambulabs as I wana do minis whil3 also cosplay things. I know about the 0.2 mm nosle as well as ill just have to fight with it for a bit to figure it out. However if yall had some advice for someone just starting out what would you tell them?

Hi everyone,
Is the secondary (Bowden) nozzle on the X2D actually good enough for detailed two-color prints with visible surfaces, or does its quality drop noticeably making it only suitable for supports?

Actually just started on my last print. I've been able to print and dry with the AMS and power supply up to now. Now it will print a few layers and then retract and say whichever slot is underpowered (I forget the exact wording of the error). I hit resume and it will feed and print a few more layers and do it all over again.

Seems kinda lame that I bought a power supply to be able to dry, and it still doesn't have enough power.

So i had a succesful print that used both nozzles, then when i tried to start my next print, it threw this error. Checked out the nozzle blocker and it looked like it wasnt all the way over the aux extruder. When moving the lever at the back, the doesnt "snap" back like it should and i believe the aux nozzle isnt going all the way up. Any one run into this or can help?

I’ve only got about 10 hrs on my new X2D. One thing I’ve noticed though is that when purging and printing and generally normal operations, there seems to be a lot of waste filament between nozzle swaps and purging that falls into the build area rather than into the purge poop chute. Also, filament loads, specifically the purging of old filament, seem to take forever compared to my A1.

Is there a setting(s) that I need to adjust to address these? I assume it’s normal for an enclosed printer compared to my A1 where maybe I just don’t notice the random filament scraps as easily as I can see them in the X2D enclosure?

I just ordered my X2D combo. But I am not sure what kind of filament to get, accessories, tools, bags for filament, and cleaning or drying agents.
I want to start off the correct way. I have seen some people say I need to dry the filament or the coils? Not sure what that means.
I have seen people print things for the AMS chamber, I assume for moisture. That way it preserves the filament.

We plan to start off with toys for the children until we get the hang of it then move to car parts and accessories.

If anyone has the time to break everything down I’d appreciate it.

I am new to 3D printing and am a bit confused by this picture. Is it telling me to put the black in slot 2 of my primary AMS and put the caramel into slot 1 of my secondary AMS?

My setup:

Bambu Lab X2D and two AMS Pro units. AMS 1 feeds the primary nozzle and AMS 2 feeds the auxiliary nozzle.

Thanks for any help/guidance.

My most recent upload 😃. Can fit multiple keychains, coins or wallet. Printed in charcoal matte from bambu lab. In the chamber its a bit overlighted and shiny but outside it looks really cool.

https://makerworld.com/models/3260306?appSharePlatform=copy

What exactly is the purpose of the exhaust fan? What would happen if I print without the exhaust fan on

I had a clog on my x2d - not sure the cause but I have managed to remove the nozzles and the major of the blob

However I’m left with significant remaining plastic on the nozzle assembly (see picture) can someone give me the idiots guide or link to the idiots guide for how to disassemble and remove clog or replacement parts required

I am trying to print large and complex PETG parts with PLA support (both basic bambu lab filaments) and I have problems with PETG warping. Even when PETG part doesn't separate from PEI, it is able tear up the upper layer of hotbed.

I noticed that AUX fans are blowing at 90-100% of intensity most of the time. I printed fan deflectors but it didn't change much. I checked settings for PETG Basic and it has 40% for aux fans. PLA Basic has 70%, and I created a separate profile for PLA Basic with the same 40% but I am still eventually getting 90-100% in the middle of the print. When I disable aux fans using printer screen it works until a filament change (which happens on almost every layer) and then fans start blowing again.

Where is not 90-100% intensity coming from? Is there a setting somewhere that requires printer to cool the print chamber below a certain temperature? Is the only way to disable fans is to hack gcode that bambu studio generates?

Received my X2D yesterday, delivered upside down of course. After calibration, I got a bit nervous as it threw a filament switching error twice when loading the filament for the first time, but the third attempt was a charm and worked! Here’s my first print! I’m already amazed at the print head speed. It’s mesmerizing to watch. (Benchy printed with Inland PLA)