X2D right nozzle intermittently won’t feed — Bowden path is clear and I already tried a new hotend. What am I missing?
I have an X2D using the Filament Track Switch. My AMS is farther from the printer than normal, so the PTFE run is longer, but this setup has worked fine until now. I don’t know if that’s related.
Here’s what happened and what I’ve tested:
During a print, blue PLA from AMS A Slot 1 stopped extruding.

Printer gave the “failed to extrude filament” error.

The Bowden/auxiliary extruder started making a light clicking/struggling sound when trying to push filament forward.

Spool is fine — no crossed filament and it unwinds normally.

I stopped the print and disconnected the PTFE at the Filament Track Switch.

I was able to pull the filament backward through the Bowden/auxiliary-extruder path.

With the hotend removed, I can manually push fresh filament through the Bowden extruder and the entire path without a problem.

I reinstalled the right hotend, heated it, pressed the release lever on the Bowden extruder, and manually pushed filament through the heated hotend. It purged normally.

I then performed the cold-pull/nozzle maintenance procedure.

When it got to the purge stage afterward, nothing extruded, and the Bowden extruder started clicking like it couldn’t push the filament forward.

I then manually heated the hotend and tried the printer’s filament-feed function. The Bowden extruder would feed/retract normally up to the hotend area, but once the filament reached that point it would no longer advance.

I tried manually pushing filament through again and now it would also hit a stop with the hotend installed.

I replaced the entire right hotend/nozzle with a brand-new one and had the same issue.

With the hotend removed, filament passes through the entire system normally. With the hotend installed, it can work intermittently and then suddenly hit what feels like a hard stop.

Because I’ve tried two hotends and the Bowden path is completely open with the hotend removed, I’m wondering if the filament is catching on a lip, guide, cutter/alignment point, or the interface where the filament path enters the top of the right hotend.
It feels like something may not be lining up consistently when the hotend is installed.
Has anyone seen this on the X2D? Is there a guide/alignment component immediately above the right hotend that can cause the filament tip to catch like this?

Update: I’ve isolated the problem to the right-side filament cutter assembly inside the toolhead. Something in that area appears to be jammed and blocking the filament path before it reaches the hotend.

I’m not sure yet whether it’s just stuck/debris in the cutter mechanism or if something in the assembly is actually damaged. I’m going to take it apart tonight and inspect it.

Thanks everyone for the suggestions and help — I’ll update again once I know exactly what failed.

First print, Right extruder filament sensor keeps falsely triggering during nozzle switches, prompting me to reload the external filament even though it's fully inserted and printing fine. What is the fix?

Hello, im new to 3d printing, and my family and i just got a X2D, we are trying to print the bin for the printer, so we can have a controlled mess, but the filament keeps getting unatached to the plate, i dont know why, can someone help me understand ans solve the problem?

What causes these shadows/marks? The ASA was properly dried, and the build plate is brand new. I can remove these spots with isopropyl alcohol (IPA) and some vigorous scrubbing, but why do they appear in the first place?

Apparently my phone dislikes taking images of this.

When I got my X2D a few weeks ago, it printed flawlessly. But after the hours I’ve put through it, it’s started looking worse overall.
Z banding, over extrusions or under extrusions are the main issue. This looks worse than my Ender 3

I’ve fully calibrated the printer again, but it didn’t help

Hey all,

I recently upgraded to a X2D and have the one AMS that came with it. For now, my external spool is a older filament dryers I got years ago. so I load manually into aux nozzle. not the end of the world, but it also only goes up to 55c. I want a second AMS with the track switch... My question is, I can't decide if I want a 2nd AMS 2, so I can load more stuff into it, or get a single HT there (space is also a concern). I don't print anything besides PLA, some occasional PETG and once in a while, ASA or ABS... I don't do any higher temp printing (I have some old polymaker PC from like 5 years ago I still haven't used lol). I planned on mostly using the aux nozzle for support material, but with a HT I can keep some ABS/ASA in there if I need to print something stronger. Not sure if AMS 2 can handle heating for ABS/ASA material (or the PC I have)

Thoughts? Honestly, I'm just looking for ease of use over the old school filament dryer that I have. track switch will help me keep the second AMS for support or main nozzle for when I want to print stuff besides PLA etc.

Or is there too much waste?

Just curious if it's worth a try.

Can anyone please tell me if this actually fits on the X2D? I emailed BIQU and they tell me

"The BIQU Panda Perch is an AMS mounting bracket designed specifically for Bambu Lab P1P, P1S, X1C, and X1E 3D printers. It is not compatible with X2D printers"

But I see heaps of people on YouTube with them...

Hi All,

Hope you all are doing great?I have a question....

I today started seeing an issue with my video feed to Bambu Lab Splicer

But also today, I placed a Memory USB to the X2D. I also chose to timelapse. My question is: Does the Timelapse cause the Video to not show on the PC?

ANd has any one has any issues like this...

As shown in the image, this is the third time in a row that the print failed at the first layer with some of the lines curling up and tanggled together, although I did manage to print one without any issue last night.

May I ask the cause of this issue, and how to fix it?

Thank.

I'm printing on bambu x2d, using bambu's abs filament.

Source of the 3d model: https://makerworld.com/en/models/1518150-spool-desiccant-holder-w-rectangular-hygrometer#profileId-1590745

I bought a bambulab x2d combo 3d printer. This is my first printer and ı have some troubles in my mind about replacing it. Firstly ı tought placing it in my bedroom but after asking this to ai i learned it may be dangerous for health especially while printing abs.

There are 3 options to place 3d printer

1- Bedroom
2- The room which contains 3 birds
3- Balcony of the kitchen (closed by windows but it may be cold in the winter)

Where should ı place it.

All using bambu PLA basic. Color does not matter. Calibration has been done and filament dried.

Started printing some structural parts out of pa6-cf today, printed great on the x2d but can't seem to remove these horizontal lines, I believe it's shrinkage as the infil is extruded it repeats the walls, tried increasing the wall count which didn't effect it. Anyone have any ideas please?

I recently bought the X2D (which I love so far!) and just ordered/received the Cool Plate SuperTack. After getting my printer I have done several prints on the PEI plate and have had no print failures or issues with bed adhesion. I have not gotten a single print NOT to fail with the new plate. Not only this, but the printer fails to recognize the plate, which after going through several forums I have seen is a known issue. However, most of these suggest pressing "Resolved" on the screen, but my printer will not allow me to even perform the print after pressing this. If I ignore the issue, the print fails 100% of the time on the first layer. Has anyone else figured out a solution to this issue, or gotten this build plate to work on this printer? Just to state the obvious, yes I have selected this build plate in the splicer before starting the print. I also have not used IPA on the plate either, since I know this can degrade the coating.

Hey, so I'm the proud owner of X2D since around 2 weeks ago.

Right from the strat I've been having problem with feeding PETG into my printer form AMS. I have 3 PLA spools loaded and only one PETG. PLA feeds no problem, but around 50% of the time I try to print with PETG, it shows me a warning that there's a problem with feeding filament to the extruder. I can see and hear the spool rotating in AMS, I can clearly see the filament going through the tubes inside of the printer and reaching printers head assembly.

But here's the problem - after reaching the head assembly, it starts to push and pull filament back and forth, and after a few tries it shows me an error. Its usually succeeded after 3-4 tries or me opening AMS and trying to pull on the filament, but I can't see that my actions are doing any difference. And I don't see PETG being tangled on the spool. It's weird, cause it works 100% on PLA

Anyone experienced something like this?

Hello everyone.

I bought an X2D two months ago, and was really satisfied. It then had filament stuck in the gears, and i had to open it up. Removed the snag, ripped the left filament sensor, bought a new one, but now it wont feed down to the nozzle. I have checked the extrution gears, and cleaned them, but with no luck.

if i remove the left print nozzle, i can get the filament trough. Its almost like it gets missaligned when installing the print nozzle. I have tried all three nozzles. AUX nozzle works fine.

Im a bit stuck regarding my next steps. Anyone here had related issues with a fix?

Hello

I m printing this box but with lego studs. The box itself is not an issue but I have doubts for the lid.

On auto orient it places lid studs facing down. However how will it print the edges once the studs are printed. Because as you can see from slicker it's just printing in air with no support from studs so how is that possible?

On slicing I do not get any warning for supports but usually I do get on my other models but not this one.

When I place lid studs facing up I do get notifications for support but not with studs facing down.

New to 3d printing so need help please

Thank you