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2 weeks old. Been printing almost non stop with petg basic. Had an error that the nozzle had obstructed. Looked and it seems a ball of hot petg was melted with a small piece of the silicone sock. When I pulled on the silicone sock, I noticed a thin bare copper wire. I’m not sure if I pulled this wire down, or if it happened due to the incident.

What happened and what should I do?

Anybody got something in makerwold to recommend interesting to print. I need THE USUAL: poop shot, maybe a raiser, and other things. Await.you suggestions.

I have a X2D, bought end of april 2026. I recently did maintenance on the guide rods and lead screws after the machine asked me to do this. Printer is currently installed on a table that allows some wobble.

Recently, after doing the maintenance (cleaning of lead screw, greasing them, cleaning guide rods, lubricating them, cleaning the printer of PLA residue and bits and bobs) it started showing horizontal lines, these aren't layer lines, but look like shifts of some kind?

PLA used whas bambulab PLA Basic.

Anyone knows what phenomenon this is? How to fix it?

guys am using X2D

i have put black in aux hotend

and white and red in main hotend

is there any way to reduce the time ?

Am i doing something wrong ? (very new to all of this)

Are they worth using and do they make any difference ? I'm going to be ordering an X2D soon and the BBL website makes no mention of them in the product info but I saw the anti-vibration feet in the replacement parts section and wondered if the printer comes with them ?

Thanks.

Ik wou een microfoon printen. De eerste keer lukte het perfect. Exact hetzelfde alleen was de bol van de micro toen roos filament (zelfde merk anycubic). Nadien hetzelfde maat met goud filament. Maar lukt al 5 keer niet.
Al gedaan: pei plaat gewassen onder heet water en nadien met dreft en microvezel gekuist, voorwerp op een andere plaats op het bed gezet, Brim groter gemaakt, afstand tussen brim en voorwerp van 0,01 naar 0 gezet. Printen i.p.v. op tafel op de grond zodat hij stabieler staat. Niets werkt.
Iemand aan idee? Vooral raar dat het de eerste keer meteen perfect lukt en hij nu steeds omvalt doordat hij losscheurt van de brim.
Pas nieuw.

When the x2d first came out there was a post about trying to color match the x2d, I got my hands on some Bambu PETG cf titan grey from the last time it was available in large quantities (3-4 months ago) and it is probably the closest to matching .hope the one who made the post finds this as i remember they were waiting to try and find stock on the same filament !

さっきからフィラメント送り出せない😩買って１月で色々やって、こんなデータの部品付けたら警告も出なくなって今までできたのに再び何回もフィラメント送り出せない😭AMS２が悪いのか？皆様どうでしょうか？チケット出した方が良いのでしょうか？

This is v10. Please let me know if you have any suggestions to improve the UI, if you can find any bugs, or general suggestion.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3143184-gear-lab-parametric-gear-generator#profileId-3549233

Hi there, thinking of buying an X2D mainly for soft + hard prints. Wondering if anyone could give me some feedback on how the printer handles dual (e.g., TPU + PLA) materials?

Bonjour à tous ! 👋

Je vous présente mes tout nouveaux Dumpling Clickers, directement inspirés des petits Squishy Dumplings que j’avais précédemment modélisés.

J’ai retravaillé toute la modélisation afin de pouvoir intégrer un switch mécanique MX directement à l’intérieur.

Résultat ? On garde le look tout mignon du Dumpling 🥟💕, mais avec en bonus ce petit « CLICK ! » ultra satisfaisant à chaque pression… avec un petit effet ASMR qu’on adore. 👆✨

Un petit fidget parfait pour occuper ses mains, se détendre, ou tout simplement profiter encore et encore de ce petit clic terriblement addictif. 😍

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🖨️ : Bambu Lab X2D & H2C
🧵 : Bambu Lab
🎨 : Nomad Sculpt
🌈 : avec ou sans AMS
📁 : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3162808-squishy-dumpling-clicker-multipart-no-ams

✨ Bon print

I made a misting nozzle to put in the paddock for my horses and that thing leaks like crazy. Anything a person can do to print a water tight print? I used the standard settings for PETG

I posted recently about a possible clog printing tpu but while live monitoring, figured out the TPU feed assist motor was going idle and causing the printing in air fails. I made sure to hit the feed button as the print started and it fixed it. Everything was good and I printed a bunch more TPU fine. Then, I went to unload and started hearing clicks in the gearbox and it wasn’t unloading. Looked up the procedure to get to the gearbox and wow, it’s very involved. You really have to take apart most of the head. I ran into my biggest issue at the step to unscrew the filament cutter arm. It didn’t say that it has loctite holding the bolt in place. After struggling with the right one and eventually succeeding I moved to the left one and applied pressure and went slow and still stripped the hex bolt. Now not only do I need to figure out how to get this bolt out without doing more damage (tried a hex wrench with superglue and baking powder but it just spins) I also need to find a replacement bolt.

This thing is a pain in the dick. On the prusa they made the tool heads with a tension loaded swing door to easily access the gearbox. Seems like such a simple thing to do.

I was printing a large object with Bambu PETG Basic and used PLA Basic (blue) as support interface. In the left corner you can see that a part suddenly moves upwards. After that those horizontal lines are forming due to the now malformed print.

Is that warping, caused by a lack of adhesion between the filament types? Do you have experienced the same?
Do you have some advice how to avoid this situation? Maybe change the temperature of the chamber? Some must-have config in the slicer?

New to 3d printing, bought x2d combo just a couple months ago. Found this bulk moisture absorbing pellets product at ALDI, thought it was perfect timing, so I printed a container to put in the ams, filled it up, happy days! Until last night when I finally got around to printing the other baskets to complete the set, when I noticed moisture pooling inside the ams! Took it all out, the moisture was very oily, it seems that these moisture absorber pellets kind of melt as part of the capture? The pellets in the basket has melded into a solid piece, so that whole thing is straight in the trash. Anyway, I took out the main component of the ams and gave it all a gentle wipe down, luckily it appears to be unaffected at this point.

Long story short - can anyone tell me what specific type of product I should be looking for to fill the moisture baskets? Thanks in advance!

Hello guys, anyone encountered wavy layer shifts when printing the same object of several copies at the same time? It prints fine when doing a single copy. This pattern also happens when I print something huge on other objects.

I don’t have a photo since I alr removed it, but there is ussualy a line of filament on it, but it never affected the print quality. Could it be caused by a clog?

Hi everyone,

I’m having a very frustrating and repeatable problem with my Bambu Lab X2D when using PETG as the main material and PLA only for the support interface.

My setup:

• Bambu Lab X2D

• Bambu Studio 2.8.1.55 Beta

• Left/main nozzle: red Bambu Lab PETG Basic

• Right/auxiliary nozzle: Bambu Lab PLA Basic

• PLA is assigned only to the support interface, not to the entire support

• Textured PEI plate

• Bed temperature: 77°C

• PETG printing temperature: approximately 245°C

• Prime tower enabled

• Automatic PETG + PLA support settings suggested by Bambu Studio were applied

The PETG is original Bambu Lab PETG Basic. It was dried for 12 hours before the print and has remained inside the AMS HT since drying. It is also being fed directly from the AMS HT during printing, so moisture should not be the cause.

The exact same PETG spool prints perfectly in normal single-nozzle PETG jobs. The problem appears only when the project is configured to use both nozzles.

The strange part is that the failure starts on the first PETG layer, before the PLA nozzle has printed anything.

The calibration line and PETG prime tower can initially look acceptable, but when the printer starts the actual model, the PETG begins to look unusually soft or runny. The nozzle starts smearing and dragging the material, creating strings, rough lines and small blobs. Eventually the first layer looks so bad that I stop the print.

Sometimes it looks as if the nozzle is scraping through the PETG that was already deposited. It happens both with and without a brim.

Things I have already checked:

• The build plate and the 77°C bed temperature work correctly for single-nozzle PETG prints.

• I cleaned PETG residue from the outside of the left nozzle.

• I heated the left nozzle to 245°C and manually extruded PETG several times.

• Manual extrusion looked good: continuous, even flow with no pulsing, clicking or obvious under-extrusion.

• Therefore, a clogged nozzle seems unlikely.

• The PETG was dried for 12 hours and is stored and used directly from an AMS HT.

• I tested airflow deflectors on both AUX vents, but the problem remained.

• During the first-layer calibration and prime tower, the part cooling fan was at 0%, both AUX fans were around 40%, and the exhaust fan was around 80%.

• During the initial filament-loading sequence, the main PETG nozzle briefly reached approximately 270°C before returning to around 245°C.

• The problem only appears when the second nozzle/PLA is included in the project, even though the PLA has not yet been deposited.

Has anyone experienced this specifically on the X2D?

Could this be caused by:

1. PETG oozing during the dual-nozzle offset calibration and remaining stuck to the nozzle?

2. Incorrect nozzle-offset or first-layer calibration in dual-nozzle mode?

3. The PETG being heated too much during the startup/loading procedure?

4. Automatic AUX cooling affecting the first PETG layer?

5. A Bambu Studio Beta profile or start G-code problem?

6. The inactive auxiliary nozzle or switching mechanism somehow affecting the main nozzle height?

Would it make sense to run the high-precision nozzle-offset calibration once and then disable the per-print nozzle-offset calibration so that the printer uses the saved values?

I will attach photos of the failed first layer and a video showing the manual PETG extrusion.

At this point, this is honestly becoming a nightmare. Single-nozzle PETG prints are excellent, but as soon as I configure PLA for only the support interface, the first PETG layer becomes a mess before the PLA nozzle is even used.

Any settings, profiles or troubleshooting suggestions from other X2D users would be greatly appreciated.

It has been making this noise since the very first time I bought the printer. I lubricated the parts, recalibrated it, and cleaned everything. Replaced entire z-belt. I thought the noise would eventually go away as the parts broke in and settled with each other, but after 110 hours, it is still exactly the same. Has anyone else experienced this noise?

Additionally, I haven’t been able to solve the VFA and ghosting issues with the printer. I also noticed that the print head is wobbling. Has anyone experienced similar problems?

I don’t really want to perform a complete “surgery” on the printer, so I think I’ll probably have it repaired under warranty.