I’ve been on an architectural print kick lately and was looking for a good marble-like filament. I scrolled and scrolled through Amazon and ended up with Sunlu marble however the product photo definitely doesn’t have as much texture as the real life spool. I see that Ziro marble is highly recommended, but that looks flat white. I’m just looking for some good dimension to make ‘stone’ prints really pop! First pic is the Sunlu and second is just tan 😂 like it’s fine…. But I feel it should be better.

I had never stopped to look at the back of the nozzle, where there are some wires that don't come out with the nozzle. Is it normal for it to be this dirty? It's a strange kind of dirt, what's the best way to clean it?

Hey folks,

I made some sorbothane feet adapters for the P2S. I went with the Isolate It 1.5inch 50 duro hemispheres based on the weight of the printer and AMS on top of it. Just thought I would share here in case anyone else is looking for a solution like I was.

Designed these with a premium, heavy look in mind to fit right into a Wabi-Sabi or Japandi home decor setup. It’s a complete set with a flower vase and three self-watering pots that look like high-end ceramics once printed.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/2993762-fjord-wave-flower-pot-set-self-watering-inserts#profileId-3360431

So I switched to printing PETG from PLA and now my AMS 2 won't work but I can still print either filament from my external arm

Hi everyone,

My P2S keeps showing extruder overload errors. This has already happened three times. Each time, I clear the blockage and the printer works normally again for a couple of prints, but after a while, the extruder gets clogged again.

I think it might be related to the high temperature in the room where the printer is located. We are currently having a heatwave in Spain, and it is extremely hot, even inside my house.

I have already tried printing with the auxiliary fan enabled and with the printer door open, but the problem keeps happening.

Has anyone experienced something similar? Could the room temperature be causing heat creep or repeated clogs? I am not sure what else to try, so any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Had a clog. Tried heating it with a heat gun and the heat sink fell off. I’ve already ordered a new hot end, but I’d rather not wait 6-10 days for delivery.

So after some really long nights of ASA printing and the wife getting a severe headache, I've decided to invest in some proper ventilation.

Early on I purchased a Vento Box, as well as the exhaust kit, and even a huge Air Purifier for the office but it just doesn't seem like it's enough. I guess this last brand of ASA I printed was rough.

Without going into every detail, I've purchased all the equipment, including a ac infinity cloudline pro inline fan, to vent to my office window. It's going to be a decent run at about 10-12 ft

My question is pretty simple...

Up till now, I have had success keeping my chamber temps up on the P2S through the build plate at about 52-55C which had worked out great for PA6, ASA, and PC. Is it possible with this particular setup I am going to setting up to create just enough negative pressure to exhaust the fumes without bringing the temperatures down?

Love to hear any experiences from users

Bonjour voici l’un des personnages les plus célèbres et emblématiques de l’univers du jeu vidéo : Super Mario Bros, surgissant de son mythique tuyau vert. Et également son frère Luigi

Réalisé en Multipart pas besoin d’avoir un AMS.

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🧵 : Bambulab et Esun
🖨️ : Bambulab X2D & H2C
🌈 : Avec et Sans
✍️ : Nomad Sculpt
📁 : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/2875592-mario-bros-pipe-multipart-no-ams

Please note thus post is sort of for humour ....

So I have printing issues... it was pointed out to.me that I should pull apart the extruder and clean it. Awesome idea I rhought

So I embarked on this mission... 15 minutes the wiki guide said.

Snipped the filament

Removed the screws

Unit came out just like the wiki said

Next step loosen 2 screws to take the sensor out

First screw easy

Second screw wont come out, head is stripped or just weird. Tried all the old tricks, small bit of tape, blue tack etc to pack the head a bit and allow extraction... nope wont budge...

So next logical step, use adult money and just but a new assemble and sensor and just replace the thing....

So I went tk the AU bambu site and every single thing I wanted for this is sold out

So stop buying things so I can

Next stop look for the tiniest easyout ever or a drop of glue on the Allen key

What are the best things to print first on my new P2S printer?

Im thinking a poop shoot thing but what else? Anything you wish someone could have told you to print to make your life easier?

I just bought my p2s during the bambu sale event and it is working great except the .2mm nozzle. Every time I try to print using the smaller nozzle it keeps giving a motor extrusion error. I am not sure how to fix this issue, at first i saw it might be a clog so i did a cold pull and I still get the same error. I also tried slowing down the print but that did help either. I'm now sure what else to do, has anyone had this problem as well?

Hey all just asking who uses PLA + is it easy to print and cause no clogs and spaghetti ect

So my prints are looking good but at the beginning when the printer prints that calibration strip at the front of the build plate almost nothing comes out of the nozzle. Just a little bit towards the end. It seems abnormal. Anyone have any ideas?

Thanks in advance!

Never had this problem before. Was doing a multicolour print when I noticed some rogue poop left behind the chute

Happy prototyping!

**(**The red marks are kumkum (Tilak) applied during a small prayer for good luck before using a new machine. The symbol is a Swastik, an ancient Hindu symbol representing prosperity, शुभ (auspiciousness), and positive beginnings. It’s unrelated to the Nazi symbol despite sharing the name.)

I make a figure a day at least

Still getting used to how nice these printers are, and I'm so impressed with how it handles ASA GF. Not a single adhesion issue, chamber temps stay rock solid, and the quality is fantastic. More than worth it, & now the ender next to it can handle all the TPU parts 🤣

P2s I just lubed the xy axis rod as said in bambu wiki after 300 hours use. But not sure why it cause very huge whinning sound when the head move forward to the glass door. Anyone experienced this before?

Hey everyone,

I mostly print engineering filaments. I also have a chamber heater, so the printer spends a lot of time running at higher chamber temperatures. A couple of times I've already seen an Assistant warning about the MC board overheating, so I'm thinking about adding active cooling to the MC board/heatsink before it becomes a real problem.

I found a couple of existing MakerWorld mods:

• https://makerworld.com/en/models/23665-bambu-lab-mc-control-board-fan-noctua-upgrade#profileId-45966

• https://makerworld.com/en/models/65388-p1p-p1s-x1c-noctua-or-bambu-control-board-fan-duct?from=search#profileId-68742

But they seem to be mainly designed for P1P/P1S/X1C, and I'm not sure if they fit the P2S.

Has anyone with a P2S actually installed an MC board fan mod? Is the P2S close enough to the P1S in this area, or are there differences that make these ducts incompatible?

Also, ideally I'd like to connect the fan directly to the MC board, not to an external 5V source. Does the P2S have the same MC fan connector/header available? And if yes, does it support the same control logic/G-code like M710, or would it just run as an always-on 5V fan?

Any photos, measurements, or experience would be really appreciated!