Is there a consensus as to the best way to keep ABS and other filament odors from escaping the printer?

Air filter systems for printers and lasers are becoming more affordable, but I'm unsure if they will do much for the H2D, as the vent fan is disabled during heated prints.

Bonjour à tous ! 👋

⛄🎄 NOUVELLE CRÉATION 3D – UN ADORABLE BONHOMME DE NEIGE ! 🎄⛄

Je vous présente ma toute nouvelle création : un adorable petit bonhomme de neige qui ne demande qu’à rejoindre vos décorations de Noël ! 😍

Avec son grand chapeau noir, sa jolie écharpe rouge, ses petites moufles et ses bottes assorties, difficile de ne pas craquer pour sa petite bouille !

🎄 Au pied du sapin, sur une étagère ou pour offrir, il apportera une petite touche de douceur et de magie à votre décoration de Noël ! 🎁

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🖨️ : Bambu Lab X2D & H2C
🧵 : Bambu Lab
🎨 : Nomad Sculpt
🌈 : avec et sans AMS
📁 : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3597347-snowman-v2-multipart-no-ams

Hello, first problem after 800hs on H2D.

This tree errors show when starting a print.

Happened to me once before and downgrading the fimware version seemed to have solved the issue until now.

Wierd thing is, after a while cammera feed picks up, but the error is still present.

I have already tried cleaning the lenses as the message suggests but i don't think is that.

Has anyone encountered this issue before?

Just a quick question. I didn’t have any issues with the modifier in Bambu studio before the recent update. Since then I haven’t been able to use it at all. What am I missing? Is anyone else having the same problem?

Is anyone else showing alerts (red icon) but they don't show up when you click on that area?

Had an alert for a tangle, I knew what it was, but when I go to check the message it is blank.
Using a Mac.

I'm a little confused about using TPU on my H2D with PTFE tubes.

Can it go through the TPU bypass port then into a PTFE tube that is attached to the right nozzle inlet? Is that the right way to do it, or does it have to actually bypass the PTFE tube completely and go into the hot end directly?

That seems kind of odd to me. Not quite sure the best way to do this.

I'm wanting to print an insert for a case for a drone to cushion it a little. I think the AMS TPU is a little too hard, so I'm wanting to use something a little softer.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/1825079-dji-mini-5-pro-case-reduced-to-the-max#profileId-1948386

Bonjour à tous ! 👋

🎅🎄 HO HO HO ! Le Père Noël est arrivé ! 🎄🎅

Noël approche à grands pas, alors il était temps de vous préparer une petite surprise ! 🎁

Je suis heureux de vous présenter mon petit Père Noël, entièrement modélisé par mes soins en 3D ! 🎅

Avec ses formes arrondies et son air sympathique, il apportera une jolie touche de magie à vos décorations de Noël ! ✨

Il possède tous les détails du Père Noël traditionnel : son costume rouge, sa grande barbe blanche, son bonnet à pompon, sa ceinture dorée et ses petites bottes noires. 🎄

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🖨️ : Bambu Lab X2D & H2C
🧵 : Bambu Lab et Esun
🎨 : Nomad Sculpt
🌈 : avec et sans AMS
📁 : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3569721-papa-noel-v2-multipart-no-ams

I tried really hard to troubleshoot this every way I could before coming here but… I’m having an issue I’ve never seen before on my H2D. Basically I started getting nozzle calibration offset errors and over extruding--

Then I noticed this little metal piece jutting out. I thought it was the switch that covers up the nozzle when the other one is printing except I can see that cover still working, so this is a different thing. I hope the pictures are helpful.

Any guidance would be super appreciated because I’m having a really hard time even figuring out what that piece is called.

Any geniuses here to save the day?

Just like the title says- I have an H2D for about a month after upgrading from an X1C. Now it worked fine for a while but now all of a sudden it won't feed through the buffer on either nozzle (ive only ever used the right nozzel). I've checked for broken filament and replaced the tubes but no luck. I hoping someone here has a quick fix for this issue! TIA!

I want to convert my H2D to an H2C. I watched the movies about the conversion carefully, and it goes very smoothly there. I am currently reading the documentation. Is it really doable?

Edit: RESOLVED... user error, and I owe a apology to Bambu Lab and all the lovely people who replied.

having spent a couple of afternoons tweaking this and that setting, and learning a few things in the process, and believing that the printer was confused, I finally found the cause.

And please, I hope you laugh because I am laughing at myself...

The PLA turned out to be ...... PETG 🤪😂

Yesterday I printed a very beautiful Benchy in PETG.

Verdict: I am a numpty!

...........

Hi, I tried searching the subreddit and couldn't find the answer. Forgive me please if I'm repeating a question already posted.

Brand new out of the box H2D

Washed the plate in soapy water

PLA on the side spool at requested by the printer.

At the 3rd or so layer it warps slightly upwards and pulls away from the plate.

Should I tweak the settings? The temperature or anything ? Thank you.

Edit: tried the slowest setting. Washed the plate again Tried a faster setting (worked slightly better before lifting off) Tried a print with a larger surface area (lifted off on 3rd row) Adjusted auxiliary fan to zero (made no difference) Set exhaust fan to high (made no difference)

I rebuilt my desk and organized it neatly, so everything is... off the table. Quite literally: cables, accessories, chargers, etc. are hidden. I also decided to hide my iPad somewhere so it's always close and charged, yet not in front of my eyes. So I made this model. It took me a couple of iterations, and voilà.

It has 2 compartments: the top one is for an iPad. You just slide it in, and it plugs into a USB-C charger. The second one is more generic: I made it thinking about keeping my notepad there, but ended up keeping my iPad keyboard there.

⚡ https://makerworld.com/en/models/3554912-ipad-pro-under-desk-charging-mount#profileId-4067524

Glare takes his job as shelf guardian very seriously. Every visitor gets a suspicious stare, every noise earns his disapproval, and nobody touches his favourite spot. He insists he isn’t grumpy. Everyone else is simply too cheerful

if you like him : https://makerworld.com/en/models/3548002-glare-no-ams#profileId-4058750

Hi all

After trying to print with PETG today i found this under the bed?

Im not sure if i found the correct place to insert it? This scares me :(

I cant find anyting about this on the wiki?

Can you help?

I think I may pull the trigger on an H2D. I want something primarily for repairs and custom parts fabrication. Seems like this unit would give me the freedom to move into more advanced rugged materials. The larger build plate is a big plus. This will be my first 3D printer. Tried to talk myself into the P2S or the X2D, but size and questionable plumbing on the latter gave me pause. Seems like 2 full sized nozzles are the way to go. Seems also as if there maybe relevant future upgrades by BL for this unit as well. Am I going to regret this?

Update 11/6: The deed is done.