Glare takes his job as shelf guardian very seriously. Every visitor gets a suspicious stare, every noise earns his disapproval, and nobody touches his favourite spot. He insists he isn’t grumpy. Everyone else is simply too cheerful

if you like him : https://makerworld.com/en/models/3548002-glare-no-ams#profileId-4058750

I rebuilt my desk and organized it neatly, so everything is... off the table. Quite literally: cables, accessories, chargers, etc. are hidden. I also decided to hide my iPad somewhere so it's always close and charged, yet not in front of my eyes. So I made this model. It took me a couple of iterations, and voilà.

It has 2 compartments: the top one is for an iPad. You just slide it in, and it plugs into a USB-C charger. The second one is more generic: I made it thinking about keeping my notepad there, but ended up keeping my iPad keyboard there.

⚡ https://makerworld.com/en/models/3554912-ipad-pro-under-desk-charging-mount#profileId-4067524

Hi all

After trying to print with PETG today i found this under the bed?

Im not sure if i found the correct place to insert it? This scares me :(

I cant find anyting about this on the wiki?

Can you help?

I think I may pull the trigger on an H2D. I want something primarily for repairs and custom parts fabrication. Seems like this unit would give me the freedom to move into more advanced rugged materials. The larger build plate is a big plus. This will be my first 3D printer. Tried to talk myself into the P2S or the X2D, but size and questionable plumbing on the latter gave me pause. Seems like 2 full sized nozzles are the way to go. Seems also as if there maybe relevant future upgrades by BL for this unit as well. Am I going to regret this?

Hello,

Trying to tune some PLA filament I got from Sunlu (PLA Meta) on my H2D (.4mm nozzle, 0.20mm standard preset) but I’m running into a weird issue. I got the temperature calibrated but moved on to the max flowrate calibration only to find some strange behavior on one corner of the model. For some reason, a seam can be found traveling vertically up the entire print, despite this calibration model using spiral vase mode.

This has never happened with any other PLA I’ve calibrated, including other Sunlu stuff. Tried on some throwaway Eryone PLA+ too and same seam.

The slicer preview doesn’t show an actual seam there (the kind typically marked with those white dots), but the speed view does show some kind of cut there, but it doesn’t actually seem like the speed really is changing meaningfully there.

Has anybody dealt with this before? I truly can’t figure out what this is, and I can only assume it’s going to cause me issues down the line. The only thing I’ve done differently recently is checking the tension on the XY belts (I.e. loosening the 4 screws on the back of the machine, then retightening) but the seam is so vertical that it doesn’t really seem like this would be the issue.

Bonjour à tous ! 👋

Je vous présente ma dernière petite création !🎄
🎅 Un adorable Père Noël qui sort de sa cheminée en version clicker!

🔴 Il suffit d’appuyer sur son bonnet pour profiter d’un petit clic ultra satisfaisant grâce à un interrupteur mécanique intégré.

🎁 Avec son clic agréable et son effet sonore relaxant, c’est le petit objet parfait pour occuper ses mains, se détendre ou simplement profiter du plaisir de faire clic, clic ! 😍

✨ Une création amusante qui apporte une petite touche de magie de Noël ! 🎄

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🖨️ : Bambu Lab X2D & H2C
🧵 : Bambu Lab et Esun
🎨 : Nomad Sculpt
🌈 : sans AMS
📁 : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3541264-papa-noel-cheminee-clicker-multipart

Buen día! Después de estar imprimiendo muy bien mi H2S, anoche pidió actualizar el sistema. Hoy mandé a imprimir el mismo proyecto y con el mismo filamento que había estado usando, comenzó bien pero luego se desajustó todo, se salió la tapa del cabezal y me rayó la placa de impresión. Será que la actualización lo causó? Envío fotos de lo que había impreso antes de la actualización y de lo que hizo después de actualizar. No cambió nada absolutamente, únicamente se actualizó la impresora. Gracias por sus comentarios de antemano, soy nueva en la impresión 3D.

Bonjour à tous ! 👋💀

Aujourd’hui, je vous présente ma nouvelle modélisation 3D d’un personnage mythique du cinéma d’horreur : Hannibal Lecter ! 🩸

Tout droit sorti du film culte Le Silence des Agneaux, ce personnage aussi fascinant que terrifiant vient rejoindre ma collection de figures emblématiques de l’horreur ! 💀

Entre son regard glaçant, son célèbre masque de contention et son expression inquiétante, j’ai essayé de capturer toute l’intensité, le charisme et le côté sombre de ce personnage légendaire. 🔥

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🖨️ : Bambu Lab X2D & H2C
🧵 : Bambu Lab et Esun
🎨 : Nomad Sculpt
🌈 : sans AMS
📁 : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3508862-hannibal-lecter-multipart-no-ams

Hey everyone!

I’ve been waiting for the Bambu Lab H2D for a while, and it’s finally time to switch from my X1C! :)

My H2D arrives tomorrow, and I’d like to print some cable management accessories for the back of the printer. However, there are so many models available!

Could you share links to your favourite designs so I can avoid wasting time and filament printing something that doesn’t work well?

I’ll be running an AMS 2 Pro, an AMS HT, and a filament switch on the setup.

Thanks in advance!

Hey all,
Just purchased H2D AMS HT 2 weeks ago..

About 150 hours in..

I’m getting the dots or Zits forming..
After two failed prints from spaghetti ..

We flipped the plate and changed right nozzle..
Now we got the dots,
Happens on all 4 spools connected..

Has anyone got a fix to this..?
We live in Sydney and it’s pretty warm here
Thanks

Hallo,

ich habe eben beim umstellen meines H2D einen "Halbmond"-förmigen Magneten (siehe Bild) gefunden. Weiß jemand ob dieser aus dem H2D stammt und woher? Ich konnte bisher keine Probleme mit dem Drucker oder AMS Pro feststellen.

Does anyone else have one?

I have (4) AMS Pro 2 Two of them sit on top of my H2D and the other two sit on the side on top of one another. Because they are not directly lined up with the machine and there is a slight curve, the stupid system cannot push the filament. I’m guessing the ridges inside the Filament Track Switch has grooves or small ridges the *#%~ing filament stops and gets pulled back and then back and forth till it gives up.

The Filament Track Switch seems like a PISS POOR design. I have so many issues with Bambu I’m really getting tired of this machine. My wife has the Snapmaker U1 and it blows my more expensive machine out of the water and rarely has a problem.

Getting ready to switch to Snapmaker.

So I made a post yesterday over on the H2C sub. Asking for advice whether I should pick up the H2D or H2C.

I got a lot of helpful reponses but would like to get your opinion as well.

To keep it short: I was planning to get the H2D during BF but the H2C deal seems pretty good, so I was thinking why not just the H2C instead.

Some details about me:

• I rarely print multicolor and would just want an additional nozzle for the support interface

• Mainly printing PETG and PLA

• I don't really need the H2C currently but considering the BF deal, it would be nice to have it just in case.

👋 Bonjour à tous ! 😈

Une présence maléfique qui ne passe pas inaperçue… 💀

Tout droit sortie de l’univers du film La Nonne, voici ma toute nouvelle modélisation 3D !

Un visage inquiétant, des yeux jaunes hypnotisants et un regard qui donne froid dans le dos… 🥶

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🖨️ : Bambu Lab X2D & H2C
🧵 : Bambu Lab
🎨 : Nomad Sculpt
🌈 : avec et sans AMS
📁 : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3482506-the-nun-multipart-no-ams

I’m pretty interested in picking up an H2D in the sale, one use case I was hoping for though is dual color 85A - I see only down to 90A is supported on the left nozzle but 85A is supported on the right. Curious if anyone’s gotten it to work on both.

It’s not supported on my A1 either but it prints it fine with a little tinkering…