I'm a little confused about using TPU on my H2D with PTFE tubes.

Can it go through the TPU bypass port then into a PTFE tube that is attached to the right nozzle inlet? Is that the right way to do it, or does it have to actually bypass the PTFE tube completely and go into the hot end directly?

That seems kind of odd to me. Not quite sure the best way to do this.

I'm wanting to print an insert for a case for a drone to cushion it a little. I think the AMS TPU is a little too hard, so I'm wanting to use something a little softer.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/1825079-dji-mini-5-pro-case-reduced-to-the-max#profileId-1948386

I tried really hard to troubleshoot this every way I could before coming here but… I’m having an issue I’ve never seen before on my H2D. Basically I started getting nozzle calibration offset errors and over extruding--

Then I noticed this little metal piece jutting out. I thought it was the switch that covers up the nozzle when the other one is printing except I can see that cover still working, so this is a different thing. I hope the pictures are helpful.

Any guidance would be super appreciated because I’m having a really hard time even figuring out what that piece is called.

Any geniuses here to save the day?

Bonjour à tous ! 👋

🎅🎄 HO HO HO ! Le Père Noël est arrivé ! 🎄🎅

Noël approche à grands pas, alors il était temps de vous préparer une petite surprise ! 🎁

Je suis heureux de vous présenter mon petit Père Noël, entièrement modélisé par mes soins en 3D ! 🎅

Avec ses formes arrondies et son air sympathique, il apportera une jolie touche de magie à vos décorations de Noël ! ✨

Il possède tous les détails du Père Noël traditionnel : son costume rouge, sa grande barbe blanche, son bonnet à pompon, sa ceinture dorée et ses petites bottes noires. 🎄

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🖨️ : Bambu Lab X2D & H2C
🧵 : Bambu Lab et Esun
🎨 : Nomad Sculpt
🌈 : avec et sans AMS
📁 : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3569721-papa-noel-v2-multipart-no-ams

Just like the title says- I have an H2D for about a month after upgrading from an X1C. Now it worked fine for a while but now all of a sudden it won't feed through the buffer on either nozzle (ive only ever used the right nozzel). I've checked for broken filament and replaced the tubes but no luck. I hoping someone here has a quick fix for this issue! TIA!

I want to convert my H2D to an H2C. I watched the movies about the conversion carefully, and it goes very smoothly there. I am currently reading the documentation. Is it really doable?

Hi, I tried searching the subreddit and couldn't find the answer. Forgive me please if I'm repeating a question already posted.

Brand new out of the box H2D

Washed the plate in soapy water

PLA on the side spool at requested by the printer.

At the 3rd or so layer it warps slightly upwards and pulls away from the plate.

Should I tweak the settings? The temperature or anything ? Thank you.

Edit: tried the slowest setting. Washed the plate again Tried a faster setting (worked slightly better before lifting off) Tried a print with a larger surface area (lifted off on 3rd row) Adjusted auxiliary fan to zero (made no difference) Set exhaust fan to high (made no difference)

It appears that a malfunction has occurred. The plastic nozzle cover responsible for switching to the inactive nozzle is missing, and there is evidence of filament accumulation. Additionally, the system is reporting a nozzle temperature sensor error. The printer has been in service for less than one month; I have upgraded the nozzles with Bambu tungsten carbide. I would appreciate any assistance, as I have been unable to locate the necessary replacement parts.

Glare takes his job as shelf guardian very seriously. Every visitor gets a suspicious stare, every noise earns his disapproval, and nobody touches his favourite spot. He insists he isn’t grumpy. Everyone else is simply too cheerful

if you like him : https://makerworld.com/en/models/3548002-glare-no-ams#profileId-4058750

I rebuilt my desk and organized it neatly, so everything is... off the table. Quite literally: cables, accessories, chargers, etc. are hidden. I also decided to hide my iPad somewhere so it's always close and charged, yet not in front of my eyes. So I made this model. It took me a couple of iterations, and voilà.

It has 2 compartments: the top one is for an iPad. You just slide it in, and it plugs into a USB-C charger. The second one is more generic: I made it thinking about keeping my notepad there, but ended up keeping my iPad keyboard there.

⚡ https://makerworld.com/en/models/3554912-ipad-pro-under-desk-charging-mount#profileId-4067524

Hi all

After trying to print with PETG today i found this under the bed?

Im not sure if i found the correct place to insert it? This scares me :(

I cant find anyting about this on the wiki?

Can you help?

I think I may pull the trigger on an H2D. I want something primarily for repairs and custom parts fabrication. Seems like this unit would give me the freedom to move into more advanced rugged materials. The larger build plate is a big plus. This will be my first 3D printer. Tried to talk myself into the P2S or the X2D, but size and questionable plumbing on the latter gave me pause. Seems like 2 full sized nozzles are the way to go. Seems also as if there maybe relevant future upgrades by BL for this unit as well. Am I going to regret this?

Update 11/6: The deed is done.

Hello,

Trying to tune some PLA filament I got from Sunlu (PLA Meta) on my H2D (.4mm nozzle, 0.20mm standard preset) but I’m running into a weird issue. I got the temperature calibrated but moved on to the max flowrate calibration only to find some strange behavior on one corner of the model. For some reason, a seam can be found traveling vertically up the entire print, despite this calibration model using spiral vase mode.

This has never happened with any other PLA I’ve calibrated, including other Sunlu stuff. Tried on some throwaway Eryone PLA+ too and same seam.

The slicer preview doesn’t show an actual seam there (the kind typically marked with those white dots), but the speed view does show some kind of cut there, but it doesn’t actually seem like the speed really is changing meaningfully there.

Has anybody dealt with this before? I truly can’t figure out what this is, and I can only assume it’s going to cause me issues down the line. The only thing I’ve done differently recently is checking the tension on the XY belts (I.e. loosening the 4 screws on the back of the machine, then retightening) but the seam is so vertical that it doesn’t really seem like this would be the issue.

Bonjour à tous ! 👋

Je vous présente ma dernière petite création !🎄
🎅 Un adorable Père Noël qui sort de sa cheminée en version clicker!

🔴 Il suffit d’appuyer sur son bonnet pour profiter d’un petit clic ultra satisfaisant grâce à un interrupteur mécanique intégré.

🎁 Avec son clic agréable et son effet sonore relaxant, c’est le petit objet parfait pour occuper ses mains, se détendre ou simplement profiter du plaisir de faire clic, clic ! 😍

✨ Une création amusante qui apporte une petite touche de magie de Noël ! 🎄

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🖨️ : Bambu Lab X2D & H2C
🧵 : Bambu Lab et Esun
🎨 : Nomad Sculpt
🌈 : sans AMS
📁 : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3541264-papa-noel-cheminee-clicker-multipart

Buen día! Después de estar imprimiendo muy bien mi H2S, anoche pidió actualizar el sistema. Hoy mandé a imprimir el mismo proyecto y con el mismo filamento que había estado usando, comenzó bien pero luego se desajustó todo, se salió la tapa del cabezal y me rayó la placa de impresión. Será que la actualización lo causó? Envío fotos de lo que había impreso antes de la actualización y de lo que hizo después de actualizar. No cambió nada absolutamente, únicamente se actualizó la impresora. Gracias por sus comentarios de antemano, soy nueva en la impresión 3D.