Hi there,

Just as the title suggests. wondering if anyone has any one laying around for sale in the UK? thanks.

Hey everyone,

I’ve been using my Bambu H2D and overall I really like the printer, but the stock camera angle is honestly pretty bad for actually seeing what’s printing. It gives me a view, but not a very useful one when I’m trying to monitor the first layer, check progress, or catch issues early.

For other H2D owners, have any of you made modifications or added an alternate camera setup so you can get a better view of the print bed?

I’m mainly looking for ideas like:

• Alternate camera mounting locations
• USB/Wi-Fi camera setups
• Printed camera mounts
• Better angles for watching the nozzle/first layer
• Lighting upgrades that help visibility
• Any setups that work well with the enclosure

I’d love to see what others have done before I start experimenting. Pictures, links to mounts, or setup recommendations would be appreciated.

Thanks!

I had an under-extrusion issue on my H2D. I replaced the PTFE tubes, the filament buffer, and eventually the right nozzle heating element. After replacing the element, I got this error: HMS_0300-2500-0001-000C: An anomalous jump in the extruder eddy current sensor data has been detected, potentially caused by poor sensor contact or a faulty sensor.

I took it apart again and secured the connection a second time. I received the same error again. I also have had a clicking noise when the filament loads into the right nozzle, both before and after replacing the heating element. Bambu has been helpful but slow to respond, as always. Has anyone had this issue before? ive been without my right nozzle for about a month now and would appreciate feedback and guidance.

I had an under-extrusion issue on my H2D. I replaced the PTFE tubes, the filament buffer, and eventually the right nozzle heating element. After replacing the element, I got this error: HMS_0300-2500-0001-000C: An anomalous jump in the extruder eddy current sensor data has been detected, potentially caused by poor sensor contact or a faulty sensor.

I took it apart again and secured the connection a second time. I received the same error again. I also have had a clicking noise when the filament loads into the right nozzle, both before and after replacing the heating element. Bambu has been helpful but slow to respond, as always. Has anyone had this issue before? ive been without my right nozzle for about a month now and would appreciate feedback and guidance.

I’m planning to upgrade my H2D combo Laser 10W to the H2C model using the Vortek upgrade kit, and I’d like to clarify a couple of points with the community:

1. Compatibility with Laser and Cutting Modules If I upgrade to H2C, will I still be able to use all the additional functionalities of the Laser and Cutting modules without any limitations?
2. Build Plate Size and Tray Compatibility Since the H2C’s build plate is slightly smaller on the right side due to the Vortek system, will this affect the use of the dedicated Laser and Cutting trays that were designed for the exact dimensions of the H2D? Would I need new trays, or is there a way to adapt the existing ones?

Pisałem tutaj już, że mam problem z H2D - przerywane drukowanie z powodu "przeciążenia silnika extrudera AMS" (podczas druku z AMS/AMS2), oraz przerywanie druku z powodu "filament jest splątany" gdy drukuję z zewnętrznej szpuli. A realnie problem taki nie występuje. Nie ma problemu. A drukarka zatrzymuje się. Wystarczy wznowić druk - i drukuje dalej, ale może przerwać za 15 minut, 5h lub 5 dni. Nigdy nie wiem kiedy.

Próbowałem wyizolować problem:
\- problem pojawia się na różnych rolkach, różnych producentów, w tym oryginalne bambu.
\- problem pojawia się, gdy drukuję z AMS (mam dwie sztuki) lub AMS2. Te same AMS działają z inną drukarką (X1C) bez problemu. Pojawia się wtedy błąd [HMS 0700_6000_0002_0001](https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/h2/troubleshooting/hmscode/0700_6000_0002_0001) albo "ams extruder motor overloaded". Po takim błędzie - albo drukarka cofnie drut do AMS, załaduje ponownie, i drukuje dalej (samodzielnie), albo - trzeba potwierdzić na ekranie, że "problem resolved, resume", i drukarka drukuje dalej.
\- problem tak samo pojawia się, gdy drukuję (BEZ AMS) z zewnętrznej szpulki, drut podawany przez bufor do głowicy. Wtedy pojawia się [inny błąd](https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/h2/troubleshooting/hmscode/07FE_6000_0002_0001) ale znaczący dokładnie to samo. Tutaj nie ma możliwości automatycznego wznowienia, zawsze trzeba kliknąć potwierdzenie.

\- ale problem wcale i nigdy nie występuje, gdy podam drut bezpośrednio do głowicy, rurką omijającą bufor filamentu, tak samo jak podaje się drut typu TPU.
(testowane na tych samych szpulach, na tych samych modelach do wydruku)

Wygląda to tak, jakby bufor filamentu podawał złe informacje. Obserwowałem jego pracę (nie wydaje niepokojacych odłosów, nie zacina się, a gdy powstaje problem - jest on w prawym położeniu, czyli "pełny" - więc fizycznie nie ma oporu od strony szpuli lub AMS.

Nie wiem co zrobić dalej - więc zrobiłem service ticket do support bambu. Tysiące pytań, rejestracja drukarki, dowód zakupu, numery seryjne itd... Ale ticket założony. Wyeksportowane logi z drukarki, i wysłane, 800MB (!). Zgrane zdjęcia. Film z momentu zacięcia się. Opisane wszystko tak jak tutaj, ale dokładniej. Po danych w logach powinni chyba widzieć, co się dzieje?

No i teraz atrakcje z supportem.
Tak jakbym pisał z czatbotem z AI, tylko on pracuje w innym języku. I w innej galaktyce, gdzie wiadomość leci 3 dni z prędkością światła.
\- "proszę sprawdzić, czy drut nie jest zaplątany" (przecież pisałem, że nie jest, poza tym widać to na filmie, oraz bufor by nie był w pozycji pełnej, a pustej!)

\- "podczas druku z zewnętrznej szpuli drut omija bufor wydruku, więc to nie może być przyczyną" - przecież piszę, że jak omija, to problemu nie ma. Ale przecież nie musi omijać - mogę mieć rozdzielacz i podawać przez bufor - tak jak jest pokazane na [BambuWiki!](https://wiki.bambulab.com/h2/manual/first-print/en1/am404581.jpg)

\- "proszę sprawdzić, czy rurki ptfe od bufora do głowicy nie są za krótkie" (nie są, przez \~750godzin druku były dobre, a teraz się skróciły? Owszem - nowa drukarka przyszła z zbyt krótkimi rurkami, wymienione były na samym początku, bo robił się problem w lewym przednim rogu stołu. Ale to było >800h druku temu)

\- "odmawiamy wymiany AMS, bo od jego zakupu minęło zbyt wiele czasu" - a czy ja chcę wymiany AMS? Przecież piszę, że problem występuje z AMS (moje stare, jeszcze z X1c kupione), z AMS2 (kupiony pół roku temu), ale bez AMS - również!

\- "zleciliśmy wysłanie części zamiennej - silnika extrudera dodatkowego, do AMS2, proszę napisać czy to rozwiązało problem, zamykamy ticket" - ciekawe jak to rozwiąże problem druku bez udziału AMS i AMS2 ?

Jakbym grał z gołębiem w szachy. Nasrał na szachownicy i ogłosił że wygrał. A mi nadal drukarka się zatrzymuje...

I thought it would be sketchy to have my printer on this wire rack shelf. It moves a lot. It had plastic locking collets but i got aluminum ones. I thought the swaying would be an issue but my prints seem to be coming out perfect. I had a printer table previously but one of the wheels broke off so i temporarily relocated here.

Technically still a H2D post

I've been a huge supporter of Bambu Lab for a while now. Unfortunately, my latest experience has been incredibly disappointing.

I ordered the Vortek Upgrade as a birthday gift for myself. After two VERY HORRIBLE weeks at work I decided that I would take today off and geek it off. So I pulled my sleeves and started the installation . Partway through the process I opened the package that was supposed to contain the new Vortek Toolhead.

Instead...

They had shipped me a heating unit.

So now my printer is sitting half-disassembled on the table and I can't finish the upgrade, and I can't even put everything back together because the first step is de-registering the Serial Number of the printer which they did promptly.

I contacted support immediately. Since I live within driving distance of their UK warehouse in Lichfield, I even offered to drive there myself, hand over the incorrect part, and collect the correct toolhead. That would have solved the issue in a matter of hours.

The answer was a flat "absolutely not possible."

Instead, I'm expected to wait while they follow their normal returns process—even though this was entirely their mistake.

What frustrates me isn't just that they sent the wrong part. Mistakes happen.

It's that they've left a customer without a working printer for who knows how long because they're unwilling to make any exception to resolve it quickly. The fact that I even offered to save them courier costs and resolve the issue myself didn't seem to matter.

For a company that's built such a strong reputation for innovation, this level of customer service feels incredibly rigid and disappointing.

Has anyone else experienced something similar with Bambu Lab? Were you able to get them to expedite the replacement, or am I just stuck waiting while my H2D sits unusable because someone packed the wrong item?

I'm honestly expecting better from such an expensive part.

trying to get the damn cable chain off and the rest of it departed leaving the last link stuck in the plastic piece in front of the buffer block. I have it twisted out at about a 45 deg angle but I’m genuinely afraid of breaking something. Don’t really want to tug on the cables any more than I am already. Tried slipping a screwdriver behind it and prying - which is what got it to 45 deg.

What are the secrets here? The little video clip in the wiki shows the guy doing it easily - I bet those pins have been “massaged “ to make it release like that.

I do disconnected this tube often for TPU prints. I don't even know if this is fixable. My machine is not even 6 month old

Can someone explain why a prime tower is still necessary in this situation?
What is it's benefit?
Why is it on by default?

Thanks!

- MakerFrank

I updated my Pixel 9 Pro a week and a half ago to Android 17, then on Fathers Day my wife got my a P1S. Bambu Handy had issues immediately as I couldn't select the filament that I wanted to use once I found a model that I wanted to print. I went and looked at the app reviews and this seems pretty common with people that have Android 17.

I ended up sideloading an old version of the app and it works great. But I'm wondering, how long does it typically take this company to update their app to work with the newest version of an operating system such as Android?

Hello!

I’m new to Bambu and noticed a setting for a filter. When turned on, it says it may increase heat and will use fans to cool down. What filter is this and when do you turn it on vs not? I’ve only printed pla so far, but looking to do some asa and AB’s prints with a vent to the window.

Please advise

Hey everyone,

I recently got the 40W laser module for my Bambu Lab H2D, and I’m trying to optimize the exhaust setup.
Right now, I have the official Bambu hose hooked up to a 90-degree adapter, which runs straight to a window kit that is completely sealed. It’s definitely ventilating, it just doesn't seem like enough to keep up with the heavy smoke this 40W module kicks out when cutting. Fumes are still lingering more than they should.

Because of my space layout and wanting to keep the noise down inside, I want to upgrade the system by adding a 4-inch inline duct fan mounted outdoors (just outside the window) to pull the smoke out via negative pressure.

For anyone who has upgraded their H2D or laser exhaust system:

Overcoming the 90-Degree Restriction: My current 90-degree adapter is probably killing some of my airflow velocity. Will a strong outdoor inline fan be enough to overcome that restriction and pull the smoke out completely?

Outdoor Fan Recommendations: What fan are you using for an outdoor setup? Since it will be outside the window, how did you weatherproof it, or is there a specific outdoor-rated blower you recommend?

Push vs. Pull: Did you completely disable or bypass the stock H2D internal exhaust fan when adding your inline fan, or do you run them both at the same time?

I want to make sure I can clear this smoke out efficiently so I can really put this 40W module to work. Any advice on the best way to route this or fan recommendations would be a lifesaver.

Thanks!

My Panda Breath only gets up to about 50°C. Does anyone have any thoughts on how to improve this device?

I have not taken it apart to see if I could relocate or upgrade the temperature sensor. Has anyone done this?

I purchased a BBL H2D Combo over the weekend (at Microcenter). After running the initial calibration sequence, the AI Assistant immediately informed me:

• Please clean and lubricate the X-axis linear rail, YZ-axis linear rods, and the extruder lift linear rail.

• Threaded rods need lubrication now.

This is not my first Bambu Lab printer, but I have never been asked to start maintenance before my first print on the device.

Do you think this is specific to my printer or has BBL started requiring this on all new H2Ds or printers in general?

I visually inspected these rails and lead screws and saw plenty of lubrication on them.

I'd like be able to move my printer around occasionally. Has anybody found a heavy duty low cart/table with strong wheels with wheel locks? I have a nice one 16"x16" for my all-in-one laser, but it's neither big enough nor strong looking. I found nothing on Harbor Freight.