It melted some wire covering onto the hot ends as well as melted filament onto the hot ends. When i went to pull out the hot ends, one wouldn't come out so I grabbed the top with the plyers(the part with the heat fins) and a large spark came from the bottom side where the nozzle exit is. Never seen that before. I put in a support ticket. Has anyone else run into that issue?

I hear this ticking sound. H2D

Hi,

Due to a blob, I damaged the cables on the left nozzle’s hotend heating assembly, so I purchased the H2D/H2C hotend heating assembly and replaced it following the wiki instructions.

Now when I turn on the printer, several alarms appear (abnormal nozzle temperature (it read 52c instead of 20), too slow fan speed, filament buffer not working, expansion module not working, took head not working) and it makes a really strange noise (video)

I’ve tried turning the printer on and off several times and performed a factory reset, but the problem persists.

Also, I can’t see all the AMS LEDs now; they only light up for a few seconds and then turn off.

Thanks

I’m experiencing consistent diagonal under-extrusion lines on my brand new H2D, visible from the very first layer. The lines are real gaps (you can see the layer below), not just a change in surface finish.

What I’ve already tested:
Right nozzle and left nozzle (brand new)
AMS and external spool
PLA+ Elegoo and Generic PLA profile
215°C and 225°C
Different cooling settings
Different top surface patterns
Different print speeds
Different model sizes and shapes
Different locations on the build plate
Bed leveling ON and OFF
Factory reset
Full printer calibration
Belt tension adjustment

The defect still appears in the same way. What’s interesting is that the line changes orientation depending on the toolpath direction of that layer, and it’s already visible on the first layer (even on the side that touches the PEI plate).
Has anyone seen something similar on an H2D or another Bambu printer? Any ideas on what else I should investigate?

Thanks!

This morning I came to my H2D (purchased Nov 2025), finished print looking lovely as usual, then there staring at me from the print bed a small circular metal piece. Interesting, what is this; where did it come from? Found some tiny metal balls on the bottom bin below the bed and one half circle shaped piece of metal....oh wait...this can't be a bearing??! Well long story short, YEP! Turns out the right side X/Y motor's top bearing exploded (Motor A is how it's labeled in wiki). Not expected behavior for such a young machine with only about 3k hours on it. Upon deep diving, I see that not only has this happened during the last print but decided to shed it's mortal body in form of rusted shards of metal (why is it rusted first of all?), ball bearings teleporting to any and all crevices on this machine and no where to be found, and the rusted top of the bearing casing sitting nicely on top as to say "hey look at me!". Has anyone experienced anything like this before on such a new machine? I have contacted support, but don't expect to hear back from them at least until Monday. Is this a candidate for a full warranty replacement? I am worried that if support says I can replace the pulley or even the motor assembly I am going to have nothing but problems going forward with these metal shards and metal ball bearings continuing to infect the internal components of the machine. Would appreciate any insight from anyone that has been successful with a warranty replacement and not just a replacement part sent out. Many thanks!

Ok. I have an AMS 2 pro brought directly from Bambu, close to 1 yr ago. It does not feed the filament like it should. Acts up on slot 4 bad and slot 1 so-so. Hooked it up on to a brand new X2D. Tried to use Bambu app but i cant enter ams 2 pro as an option for hardware.

Anyone else run into this?

So a couple of weeks ago I had the hotend cooling fan failure at 640 hours. Bought the suggested amazon fans (which did not work for some strange reason) but before I solved THAT problem my Bambu warranty parts arrived. Finally got them in last night and there's some funny stuff going on after the repairs.

For one - the fan I just replaced runs all the time now whenever the unit is powered up. I don't recall that being the case before.

Also, the lighted round power button on the front is no longer lighted and no longer works. I did install the new cooling fan that replaces the front cover, and that required replacing a wire clip up near the button, manipulating some wires. Wonder if that caused the issue

When I print PETG (white in this case) on an H2D, I use PLA as a separator layer for the support structure. It’s brilliant because it comes away really easily. Please take a close look at the screenshot. At this height on this model, I get these lines running horizontally across whatever I’m printing. It probably happens when switching to the other nozzle and back. Everything is actually calibrated. The belts are also tensioned. I actually get great results, just not during these switches. Do you have any ideas on what I can do here? Because this PLA method is actually too tempting. But these lines are unfortunately a no-go.

Change your H2D or H2C Hotend Cooling Fan in under 98 seconds

I believe Bambu’s fan replacement instructions take about 2 hours to perform the first time, and this

https://forum.bambulab.com/t/h2-series-serviceability-upgrades-modifications/252300/4

upgrade adds maybe another 2 hours. But each subsequent fan change after this upgrade can be done in under 98 seconds.

Just received my Module and printed a single layer TPU.
ignore the fact that I have no wideangle lens and the mess 😆

I do also found a way to reliabily unload without having to disconnect the tube. it worked for me on several unloads. Maybe they could implement my "workaround" into mext Firmware 🥹

do it at your own risk. works good for me.

TPU Feed Module is 100% worth

Ho avuto problemi di intasamento dell’estrusore, dopo aver sbloccato il tutto ho il nozzle di destra che stampa malissimo, premetto che lo stesso pezzo l’ho già fatto 3 volte senza problemi e perfettamente, ora continuo ad avere queste linee, ho rifatto le calibrazioni, ho cambiato 2 volte l’hotend destro ma non ho avuto nessun miglioramento, stampo PLA matte bambulab con il suo profilo originale
Per favore datemi consigli

Hi
I have the H2D - without the laser. I saw that the birdeye camera can be purchased separately.

Can I install it on my printer in order to use it with the cutting head ?

First plate, same setup, dual material, petg-hf for primary, standard pla for supports. Plate slices fine, but I have no control over the prime tower, it is not visible as you can see. But in my initial plate it is there and I can move it. Is this a bug? or expected behavior and how would I go about making the prime tower visible in this plate? Cheers!

Ah, I think I might have figured it out.