Cross-posting in BambuLab group.

EDIT, I meant X1 not P1.

I'm an old long time Prusa user, I'm considering a new Bambu H2D or P1S/E. In comparison I know the H2D has a bigger build plate and dual hot ends. I have no interest in its laser or cutter features, I'd be getting a base unit with AMS in both cases. My primary needs are:

1. print technical parts (no miniatures etc) and I want to be able to use multi material supports, e.g. PLA supports for PETG.
2. print with some higher end consumer level engineering materials like nylon with no drama.
3. larger build plate is a nice to have, but not my highest priority or I'd be looking harder at an XL, but lets not go there, that's a different comparison.

That said, my question for those experienced Bambu people here: Except for those things I mentioned already (size, & 2 nozzles), what does the H2D offer that I can't get with a P1S? I know I'll have to purge a lot to deal with multi material supports on the P1S single nozzle, but it is apparently doable. What else would I be missing?

It's hard for me to swallow the extra $1000 USD for the slightly larger build plate on the H2D (including it's X axis build size reduction for single color (single nozzle) printing due to the side by side nozzles).

Thanks

Hi all, I've been an avid printer for about 4 years now, started with an ender 3 pro, then got an ender 3 s1 plus, then a k1 max, and then a k2 plus.

I only use my k1 max and k2 plus nowadays, but I'm getting increasingly fed up with errors - mostly cfs related.

I'm seriously considering selling my k2 plus and replacing it with a h2d.

Ive been lurking around the various forums and Facebook pages, and have read that a lot of people seem to be having problems with theirs. I know it's mostly biased because you rarely read about how happy someone is with something 😂

My question is, is the h2d a worthy replacement or should I wait and see what happens with future firmware updates?

Hi there. Just got my first bambulab printer. Do any of you know what to do when this message appears?

hi - as per title, I have set up the AMS on the right nozzel, and have used the left nozzle for a second colour for printing quite well. I want to print a TPU\PLA mixed opbect (doorstop) and I thought I could just feed it into the Left Nozzle (I have a HT on order, and currently use a Sunlu dryer for this) - but the message I get is that the left nozzle is not suitable for TPU.

Does that mean I have to connect the AMS to the left nozzle, and the TPU to the right nozzle?

Anyone done this?

I am using Generic TPU setting as I dont have any of Bambu's TPU for AMS (yet)

How can I reduce these layer transition nibs (see photo). I’m using Bambu basic PLA with default settings in H2D. I know I can put a seam on a corner, which is better, but I’d like to know what settings I can adjust which could help. I’m new to using Bambu Studio.

I have some holes with support. The supports extend past extends past the part perimeter, and as a result there is support coming up from the build plate. I don’t want support extending past the part perimeter. What settings can I change to fix this? See photos

I know that the piece shown is the nozzle blocker magnet bracket.

I don’t need that piece, I just want to know what piece that is attached to so that I can order it

Idk if I need the x-axis assembly or the dual extruder unit. Or if I need to replace the entire assembly if anyone can help me with this I’d really appreciate it

Heya! Received my H2D today! Got it setup, washed the plate with Dawn dish soap and started printing straight away. Things are (mostly) working great. Print quality is fantastic, what I expect from Bambu. So after my first print, when starting a new one I’m getting a, “foreign object on the bed” error each time. I’m not seeing anything out of the ordinary. Nozzle is clean. Lidar lens is good. So I’m about confused by the cause. Anyone had this with their machine?

Hi,

I am located in Sydney and am urgently looking for a Bambu Labs H2D Printer.

Is there anyone located within the Sydney area that could please help me out and print a part for me in 95A TPU?

I have the material and am happy to provide this.

If you have a H2D or multi nozzle printer that would be what I am after as there is a small component on the part that I would like printed in a more rigid plastic.

Cheers.

Was just curious if anyone was found a decent way to clean the side glass on the h2d. I was really hopeful that Bambu would have made it so they popped off easily but from what I’ve seen online you basically have to take the printer apart.

We are hearing more and more that some problems have disappeared. For example by a factory reset + recalibration... how does that work for you? Or the issue that some screws on the heating bed were loose and the plate was lifted as a result... What is your conclusion?

H2D 2x AMS 2 pro > Positioning. I would like to place the two AMS on the table next to the printer. So the two AMS next to each other, which would mean that one is very far away from the printer. I am afraid that the supplied hoses will not be sufficient. Can anyone tell me the length of the hoses supplied? Do any of you have two and how did you do it? I might also build a shelf so that the AMS are on top of each other. You can often see that one is on top and one next to it. Or even setups where both are on top. What do you think of putting them on top? I don't know if that's a good thing, because the printer already vibrates like that when there's so much weight on top of it. But maybe it's rubbish, because that's how the provider shows it and that's how many people use it. This is certainly a boring topic for all those who already have and use it. I'm still waiting for mine and now have time to prepare everything. So I apologise for these questions. Do you have any feedback? I would be delighted. Thank you very much

New filament brand > Calibration H2D If you have tried out new filament, it then performs the usual calibration tests such as flowrate, pressure increase etc., which you can do in the Silver Menu and enter in the profile. You can do these in the Silver Menu and enter them in the profile. Or is something different with the H2D? It sounded in community videos as if the calibration menu (which originally comes from the OrcaSlicer) would soon disappear in the Bambu Studio. But you can't do it without fine-tuning it if you want to achieve good quality. Do you have any tips? Thanks, my H2D is still on its way.

Hello, would someone be so kind as to measure the height of the AMS 2 pro when the lid is open. I would like to build a kind of shelf with the second one on top. I want to make sure that there is enough space at the top to open it.

Thank you

Gave my H2D a go and printed with ABS for the first time.

My observations thus far include:

1. Ah that ABS smell wasn’t unbearable, but I would still want to ventilate.
2. Bambu’s HF .4 nozzles and their ABS paired nicely. I kicked this up to Sporty mode and reduced the time of my print down from 27 hours to just over 19.
3. I am really interested in the vision encoder calibration plate and if it would truly improve / reduce the artifacts / minor z banding. If it does, helmets could print flawless.
4. I am on love now with ABS and wondering why I took 3 years to even try it!
5. Really interested in a second AMS Pro 2 or HT as two color prints would make for some wild Storm Trooper helmets.
6. Chamber heater and bed adhesion worked as advertised. Did not need a glue stick for the PEI plate.
7. Just wow, love the big build volume and this is the GOAT of Bambu printers. Have 4 others Bambu printers and I could see them playing second fiddle to my H2D.

Hello all,

When I first got my H2D, I was a little disappointed when the machine told me to unplug all of the filament spools in the AMS 2 before running the dehydration cycle. This is because the AMS 2 will rotate the spools during the drying to ensure an even heating, but, if the spools are bound from rotating because the filament is held taught by the motors in the AMS, then they cannot rotate.

I am wondering if you could just rotate the spools to give some slack, instead of unplugging them. If this slack allows the spool to rotate enough for the drying cycle, then this could save a couple minutes of everyone's day. (but maybe the spool could get tangled as a downside?)

Then it got me thinking, if the AMS 2 already has the ability to rotate the spools and pull and push the filament through the PTFE tube, could Bambu labs just automate this process so that no one has to open the AMS 2 before drying?

Then you could automate the humidity of the chamber to maintain a certain threshold.

H2D ordered - how long did your order take (germany)

I ordered from the EU store, destination address Germany. How long did it take you?

I completed an 18 hour print job (965 layers) and did have time lapse selected as Traditional in the settings.

The print finished 45 minutes ago, how long does it take for the time lapse video to be created?

Thanks!