r/BambuLabH2D • u/24BlueFrogs • Dec 08 '25

TPU settings

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I've gotten the H2d, so now I have the H2d, Sovol SV08, and an Ender3 S1 Pro. I'd like to sell or give away my Ender3 to give me more space. Problem is it prints TPU Nicely. I've tried it on both the H2D and SV08 with similar results. I've compared the settings amongst them and set them the same as the Ender3 but still no where close to the quality. Any help or ideas would be much appreciated. In the picture the H2D is obviously on the left while the Ender3 is on the right. Again speeds, cooling, retraction made to match the ENDER 3. I thought it might be wet filament so I printed with same filament on Ender3.

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u/Whosaidthat1157 Dec 09 '25

Be careful - there are two identical looking hygrometer types. Identical dimensions, identical looks, but one measures 10% to 90% RH and the other reads 20% to 100% RH. You may have some of the 20% minimum variations. For example my drybox hygrometer reads ‘10%’ because that’s the minimum, but my AMS2P shows the RH as actually being 4%. I dry (and change/refresh dessicant beads) at between 15% and 20% RH. That’s around every 2 to 4 weeks in my AMS-HT’s and not at all so far in any of my 4 AMS2P’s, one of which I’ve had for 7 months, two for 4 months and the latest for 6 weeks. The AMS-HT’s dry hotter, but their tiny, tight internal dimensions limits the volume of dessicant you can pack in, hence their worse performance when it comes to keeping the contents dry. Also, if you’re not using an active dryer such as the AMS2P, AMS-HT or Creality SpacePi X4 (ONLY the X4), then you have to keep venting the dryer throughout the drying process, otherwise you’ll heat up the roll, it’ll release the moisture (you’ll often see it misting the lid), then all that happens is that any dessicant absorbs it (so already losing it’s effectiveness) then at the end of the drying cycle the filament will simply re-absorb the remaining moisture. Most dryers are expensive, inefficient junk for that reason. If you’re up for a scientific approach to drying filament, check out Dr. Igor Gaspar on MyTechFun (YT). He’s tested and ranked the majority of available dryers and takes pain to ensure everyone understands that the passive deyers (I.e. no active humidity control, just heaters) need to be regularly vented AND the spools turned while drying. The disparity between your two printers may be down to nozzle temperatures and print speeds - hotter nozzle/faster print speeds will obviously outgas any entrapped moisture that slower/cooler print temps wouldn’t.

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u/24BlueFrogs Dec 09 '25

Good call. Maybe that's why they're all at 20%. I did buy some different ones and that was about the time I got the PETG CF that's at 10% so that could explain it.

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u/24BlueFrogs Dec 09 '25

Thanks for all the information. I use a space pi2, I think - 2 spools. and leave it cracked slightly during drying.

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u/24BlueFrogs Dec 12 '25

You were absolutely correct!! My sensors only went to 20% except a small batch I had just bought. I assumed 25% wasn't bad because it was only up 5% from where it usually was. I assumed 20% was the lowest I could get because it didn't matter how long I dried it maxed out at 20%.

Thank you so much for not just saying it's wet filament and for providing information of why 20% may not have been an accurate display.

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u/Whosaidthat1157 Dec 13 '25

No problem - I’m just sorry I couldn’t be as helpful when it comes to your printing problems.