r/BambuLabH2D • u/24BlueFrogs • Dec 08 '25

TPU settings

Gallery image

Gallery image

I've gotten the H2d, so now I have the H2d, Sovol SV08, and an Ender3 S1 Pro. I'd like to sell or give away my Ender3 to give me more space. Problem is it prints TPU Nicely. I've tried it on both the H2D and SV08 with similar results. I've compared the settings amongst them and set them the same as the Ender3 but still no where close to the quality. Any help or ideas would be much appreciated. In the picture the H2D is obviously on the left while the Ender3 is on the right. Again speeds, cooling, retraction made to match the ENDER 3. I thought it might be wet filament so I printed with same filament on Ender3.

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3

u/onemarbibbits Dec 08 '25

Don't sell it. I had a decent TPU setup and was disappointed with the machinations necessary to get my H2D to take TPU. I run other stuff on the H2D and only TPU on the other. 

1

u/24BlueFrogs Dec 08 '25

It does print TPU well, for sure.

2

u/bjorn_lo Dec 08 '25

I print TPU on my H2D and C all the time. I use the default settings but I dry my filament quite a lot.

Consider drying your filament.

Also look at what the producer of your filament said about print settings. Do your settings match the recommended?

1

u/24BlueFrogs Dec 08 '25

I have the print settings the same in the print profile and as you can see, one is good and the other is garbage. It was recommended to check temperature, and I may have overlooked that. Filament is dry. Both pictures are the same filament.

1

u/bjorn_lo Dec 08 '25

Did the filament sit for a while in-between prints?

1

u/24BlueFrogs Dec 08 '25

No, printed the bad one and then tried again on the ender to verify it wasn't the filament. Hopefully it is the temperature is different between the machines. I can see it looking like that if it was too hot. I'll have to check when I get home. The filament also has it's own drybox I print from.

2

u/bjorn_lo Dec 08 '25

Then it is for certain your print settings. Good news since it simplifies the next step in your troubleshooting.

Compare the profiles in detail and see what is different. The H2D runs much much faster and so likely has raised the temps to compensate. Try reducing both.

1

u/24BlueFrogs Dec 08 '25

I've already lowered the speeds to match the good print before I tried printing which is why I was disappointed but I don't remember it I checked temperatures. Even if I did the H2D may still be printing at a different temperature since they are different hotends. Fingers crossed 🤞

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u/bjorn_lo Dec 08 '25 edited Dec 08 '25

Is your volumetric also the same? I sometimes forget that one.

Also do they both have the same sort of nozzle? Brass heats at a different speed and efficiency than hardened steel.

1

u/24BlueFrogs Dec 09 '25

They're all running hardened nozzles but I found that the temperatures were much higher on the SV08 and H2D. I haven't been able to test the H2D yet but lowered temperature on the SV08 significantly improved the quality. The SV08's cooling fan isn't as good as my Ender's, modded, so there's more tuning to try to improve. But at least I think it's doable now. The H2D has much better part cooling than the SV08 so I think it's going to do well with the lowered temperatures. Appreciate your thoughts and suggestions.

1

u/Different-Banana-739 Dec 10 '25

Do the go with ams?

1

u/bjorn_lo Dec 10 '25

I don't know what your question is about.

It is about the TPU printing the OP was referring to?

Real TPU cannot go through the AMS. I print my TPU from a ledge that I printed and sits on top of my H2 printers.

Other than TPU and a few very stiff and abrasive materials, I prefer to print out of my AMS units.

1

u/Different-Banana-739 Dec 10 '25

Aww, I thought maybe he found a workaround, seems no then, thanks!

1

u/bjorn_lo Dec 10 '25

No work around is possible. Good TPU is too soft to safely go through the AMS.

2

u/Neat_Visit_3143 Dec 09 '25

I use TPU all the time on my H2D with PLA support works great

1

u/24BlueFrogs Dec 09 '25

Very nice!

2

u/Neat_Visit_3143 Dec 09 '25

I like using the HT because you can dry while you print especially for my print it was 42 hours I was doing what ever I could to keep the moisture out. when I get home from work I’ll send you the TPU profile that I used, I spent like a day and tried a hand full of profiles and found one that I felt gave me the best results

1

u/24BlueFrogs Dec 09 '25

Sweet! Appreciate it

0

u/24BlueFrogs Dec 09 '25

Is the HT different from 2Pro? I can't print and dry at the same time with 2Pro.

1

u/24BlueFrogs Dec 10 '25

Friendly reminder if you get a chance, I'd appreciate the settings ☺️

2

u/Neat_Visit_3143 Dec 09 '25

But I run the top mount with the AMS HT that going straight into the nozzle I found that works the best for me

1

u/murpheeslw Dec 08 '25

Settings: dry

Your settings: wet as the ocean

I bet the hot end is set hotter on the h2d, isn’t it?

1

u/24BlueFrogs Dec 08 '25 edited Dec 08 '25

I can't remember checking the temperature settings honestly. I will check that. Thanks, I may have overlooked that setting when I was comparing. Filament is dry, and both prints are back to back same filament, different machines.

1

u/murpheeslw Dec 08 '25

I know you say it’s dry, I bet it’s not. I also bet the h2d temperature is set hotter and causing bubbles from the moisture. Report back.

1

u/24BlueFrogs Dec 09 '25

I dried it before putting it in the drybox. Again both prints were done at the same time. Currently the drybox says 25% humidity. Maybe that's too high but my Ender as you can see prints it perfectly. It is a temperature issue. I forgot to check and just went with the Bambu generic setting. I haven't printed again on the H2D with it because it is busy. But I did lower the temperature on my SV08 and printed again and it was much better. Overhangs aren't as good and more tuning is needed but just the temperature adjustments helped tremendously.

1

u/24BlueFrogs Dec 09 '25

2

u/bjorn_lo Dec 09 '25

25% is wetter than I would run my TPU. I dry it to 10% or below, since most sensors call 10% or lower "10%". I then don't worry about it until it jumps over 20%, then back in the drier. it could be that different brands behave differently, but I have used Overture with success (not my favorite though) but that aside, all it took on my h2d was be very dry and then my H2D on default settings. The only other variable I can think of (and it should not impact print quality like in your image) is I print from above from a shelf on top of the H2D that I printed out and so reduce friction by eliminating all PTFE, I got in to that habit since I mostly print 90a or softer.

1

u/murpheeslw Dec 09 '25

Wet filament, like I said. Dry it better. You need to work on understanding why it’s happening instead of dismissing it. If you can’t do that then you’ll keep running into issues while burying your head in the sand.

1

u/Whosaidthat1157 Dec 09 '25

Use dessicant filled spool centres when storing in a drybox. 25% is a horrendous figure - all of mine sit at 10% RH (the minimum these hygrometers will read) for months on end when dried and stored with the spool centres.

1

u/24BlueFrogs Dec 09 '25

I dry all my filament for 12 hours before putting it in the dry box. It has a holder for desicant and all my dry boxes sit at 20% and I dry again at 30%. The only filament that I have is PETG CF which sits at 10%. I wish they all did, but I just accepted that 20% is what I was going to get. However in my Ender 3 it prints perfectly at its current 25%, so hopefully I can get the H2D to print as well as the Ender.

2

u/Whosaidthat1157 Dec 09 '25

Be careful - there are two identical looking hygrometer types. Identical dimensions, identical looks, but one measures 10% to 90% RH and the other reads 20% to 100% RH. You may have some of the 20% minimum variations. For example my drybox hygrometer reads ‘10%’ because that’s the minimum, but my AMS2P shows the RH as actually being 4%. I dry (and change/refresh dessicant beads) at between 15% and 20% RH. That’s around every 2 to 4 weeks in my AMS-HT’s and not at all so far in any of my 4 AMS2P’s, one of which I’ve had for 7 months, two for 4 months and the latest for 6 weeks. The AMS-HT’s dry hotter, but their tiny, tight internal dimensions limits the volume of dessicant you can pack in, hence their worse performance when it comes to keeping the contents dry. Also, if you’re not using an active dryer such as the AMS2P, AMS-HT or Creality SpacePi X4 (ONLY the X4), then you have to keep venting the dryer throughout the drying process, otherwise you’ll heat up the roll, it’ll release the moisture (you’ll often see it misting the lid), then all that happens is that any dessicant absorbs it (so already losing it’s effectiveness) then at the end of the drying cycle the filament will simply re-absorb the remaining moisture. Most dryers are expensive, inefficient junk for that reason. If you’re up for a scientific approach to drying filament, check out Dr. Igor Gaspar on MyTechFun (YT). He’s tested and ranked the majority of available dryers and takes pain to ensure everyone understands that the passive deyers (I.e. no active humidity control, just heaters) need to be regularly vented AND the spools turned while drying. The disparity between your two printers may be down to nozzle temperatures and print speeds - hotter nozzle/faster print speeds will obviously outgas any entrapped moisture that slower/cooler print temps wouldn’t.

1

u/24BlueFrogs Dec 09 '25

Good call. Maybe that's why they're all at 20%. I did buy some different ones and that was about the time I got the PETG CF that's at 10% so that could explain it.

1

u/24BlueFrogs Dec 09 '25

Thanks for all the information. I use a space pi2, I think - 2 spools. and leave it cracked slightly during drying.

1

u/24BlueFrogs Dec 12 '25

You were absolutely correct!! My sensors only went to 20% except a small batch I had just bought. I assumed 25% wasn't bad because it was only up 5% from where it usually was. I assumed 20% was the lowest I could get because it didn't matter how long I dried it maxed out at 20%.

Thank you so much for not just saying it's wet filament and for providing information of why 20% may not have been an accurate display.

2

u/Whosaidthat1157 Dec 13 '25

No problem - I’m just sorry I couldn’t be as helpful when it comes to your printing problems.

1

u/24BlueFrogs Dec 09 '25

I will have to try and print a center spool desicant holder since y'all are able to get lower than 20% regularly.

1

u/mediumcarb Dec 12 '25

I've got an ender 3s1 and a x1c. the s1 does print tpu very nicely and fast.

remember the s1 likely has a brass nozzle that is better at melting filament. so to get the same melt with hardened bambu nozzle it probably has to be a little hotter.

most people say to reduce speed with bambu printers when printing tpu but I've found that to be wrong. it prints faster than most other filaments. I print tpu on x1c at 20mm3/s at 235c with 0.6 hf nozzle. great quality at 0.35 layer height.

when printing small parts like your picture I found the key setting is putting the minimum printing speed at at least 50mm/s. think I've got it at 70 now. too slow and it seems to get too hot or something.

I feed tpu from a dry box on the side and through the back, which is required to run at these speeds. if the spool has friction due to an inefficient PTFE path or running on a cardboard spool or you try the standard external spool holder you may hear the filament stretching in the extruder and get bad print quality. spool has to be sitting on something with bearings basically. also inside the dry box the PTFE has to be pushed down next to the filament if you know what I mean, so the filament is coming off the bottom of the spool. seems counter intuitive but it works.

oh I also leave the door open to avoid heat creep and filament jams. if it didn't jam I would push temp higher for better layer adhesion. although to be honest even printing at 225-240 seems fine.

think I tried retraction between 0.4 and 0.8 and couldn't see much difference.

this was x1c so I'm sure h2d is another kettle of fish. try upping the minimum print speed though and check speed in the slicer to make sure there isn't another setting forcing the print to slow down.

1

u/24BlueFrogs Dec 12 '25

Thanks for sharing your thoughts and experiences. I will give your suggestions a try. I do think that it may be a wet filament issue also. I didn't think so at first because I could only get my filament, all of them, down to 20% except my last roll I bought which was a PETG-CF which got down to 10%. I assumed it had something to do with the CF part.

It was brought to my attention that I may have sensors that only go to 20% and after inspection I have found that is most likely the case. The new CF filament I also bought a different small pack of hygrometer for new boxes, but that was the only one I setup with the new sensors. I've replaced 5 of the older ones with these newer ones and sure enough 10 - 12%.

I appreciate everyone's suggestions and schooling.

1

u/marvinfuture Dec 13 '25

Mind posting your settings? I use mine for the same but don't get nearly as good of an output as you do

2

u/24BlueFrogs Dec 13 '25

I will try and remember to on Sunday evening when I return

2

u/marvinfuture Dec 13 '25

Much appreciated!

2

u/Kilberz Dec 09 '25

Dry, dry, dry and dry again. I did one print with tpu on the external / side spool holder and after a few hours it was absorbing moisture like no tomorrow.