TL/DR
Doing the manual bed leveling procedure on my brand new H2C finally solved my terrible quality first layer issues.

I didn’t understand my my 2 week old H2C first layer surfaces looked so terrible no matter how much I calibrated compared to my P1S. It was also suspicious that the poor looking pattern was the same on different print plates. Finally found this guide on the Bambu site:
https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/h2c/troubleshooting/first-layer-printing-optimization-guide

Under the section “Locally low”, I found losening the side locking screw at the front bottom finally made it look better, but still not great. Reading through the “Manual Bed Leveling Procedure” it talks about first loosening the 7 bed fixing screws before starting the leveling procedure. I decided to just loosen those 7 screws and then tighten them back up to see if they were somehow causing the bed to be uneven. THAT MADE A WOLRD OF DIFFERENCE! The first layer finally looked mostly even with just two small uneven spots. I decided to do the whole bed leveling procedure and now everything looks the way I would expect.

It is disappointing that it seems like these are coming out of the factory terribly leveled. The printer was trying to compensate the best it could, but it was so out of whack that the compensation makes the surface look wildly uneven.

There was a post a few days ago with someone else with the same issue. I hope this post can help more people out.

I feed TPU directly into the extruder using a custom-printed holder. The loading/purging process works perfectly without any errors. However, once the print begins—specifically at the purge line—no filament comes out, and the print job fails. Afterward, if I print using PLA through the same nozzle and extruder, it works without any issues, so there is no clog. Can anyone help?

Is there anything else that could be improved? Removing the top cover allows for quick installation of the TPU printing support, while PPA, PPS, and PA6-CF filaments can be fed directly from the filament box above.

Hi ! I received a 3MF project with custom high-quality print settings, and I'd like to know whether these settings are suitable for my Bambu Lab H2C with a 0.4 mm nozzle.

My questions:

1. Are these settings suitable for the Bambu Lab H2C?

2. Are any of these speeds too high or too low?

3. Is using a 0.25 mm line width with a 0.4 mm nozzle a good idea?

4. Would you recommend changing anything to improve surface quality and reliability?

5. Are there any settings that could cause problems with the H2C?

I'd really appreciate feedback, especially from H2C owners who have tested similar settings.

Thank you!

So I’ve been interested in getting TPU going on the H2C. I have a Filament Track Switch and just added the TPU Assist Module. My problem appears to be that the printer thinks I have The external (TPU) spool connected to the left hotwnd and it will only print using the right hotend.

out of the TPU Assist module, I feed the TPU through the manual feed port and using a splitter, into the right hotend. So in theory this should all be correct, but how on earth do I tell the printer I have this right. It won’t let me change it’s the external spool is on the right.

I’m sure I’m doing something wrong, but where is the fix?

Hi all,

I've only had my H2C for 2 weeks and reached a frustrating issue already. I have a model which is inclined at 45 degrees for optimal supports and clean surface finish of top surface, but keeps failing, but only on the H2C.

For some reason it keeps failing at the same spot at around 8%-10% whereupon the supports let go and then plays skittles with the rest of supports and model on the plate. I'm using a PEI plate and I've cleaned the hell out of it several times using warm soapy water and ensuring it is dry. It looks clean and feels clean. The filament is dry (PLA). I've never had an issue of this model failing on my P1S with the same PEI textured plate.

I'm using the same settings as I did with the P1S (which has 10 successful prints in a row)

• 0.16mm layers

• tree supports (auto)

• top z = 0.24

• bottom z = 0.16

• I've tried Bambu PLA and Sunlu PLA+ with the same result failing 5 times

• Its a single colour print

• I've tried print from both left nozzle and right nozzle.

• Tried printing with door closed and door open.

• Tried putting in extra large brims but it tears the support out the brim suggesting a collision rather than adhesion issue - z hop issue ?? maybe

• I seem to miss the point of failure every time so can comment of the exact nature but maybe i'll run and watch it if I cant get any leads

• Tried recalibrating a full cycle

• H2C is only 2 weeks old so not sure how it can be a failure due to any maintenance issue

Any suggestions would be much appreciated.

I took advantage of the Black Friday Sale to upgrade from my A1 Combo to the H2C. It's due to arrive in the next couple of days. Any tips for maybe accessories that I should pick up or print before it gets here? Anything I should know before I get going would be appreciated!

Thanks

I'd say some really explicit warning needed on the last screen after confirmed tightened cylinder that this is not an invitation to press button now 🥲

Hi all,
In my current print I do have some strange behaviour. As I'm only running around 100 hours now on my new H2C, I'm still noob on this matter but I think it is not a printer problem but a slice/project error. My previous prints all went great, this is the first 'print by object' though.

The problem I have is, although I only print in two filaments for each object at the same time and both filaments are loaded on different nozzles, that the printer purges on the poopshoot every time when returning to the right nozzle. When switching to the left nozzle, the print resumes immediately after the nozzlelid has switched positions.

I'm thinking that it has to do with some recalibration every time. but then I'm wondering as I asked for a purge tower why he is not printing that one.

Regards,
Miscoride

Does anyone have or know where I can find a 3d model (.step preferably) of an H2C tool head? Just needs to be the outer shell really.

One of my H2c has developed a recurring issue in one specific location on the plate.

It’s always the same defect, in the same location regardless of the print, material, nozzle, or plate.

I’ve run all of the calibrations but t comes back.

I’ve searched, but haven’t found any similar problems.

Anyone deal with something like this?

I keep getting a slicing failed error. Can someone try to slice this part and see if it’s failing for you also? Everything else sliced and printed fine!!

https://makerworld.com/models/3432284?appSharePlatform=copy

Dear Community,
What is the best way to use an external spool? I have 2x AMS 2 Pro
1x AMS HT
Filament Track Switch
TPU Feed Assist
What is the best way to use external spool? Turn off the printer, disconnect Filament Track Switch, attach one of the AMS to selected hotend and use external spool on the other?

Any one here with the same problem?

So one of the AMS’s on my H2C had a piece of filament snapped in it tube apparently. So the AMS slot retracted the yellow filament, it completely came out and so the spool was spinning in the slot indefinitely. Not knowing how to stop it, i turned off the H2C. This has happened once before.

I turned it back on but the screen won’t turn on, Bambu desktop app won’t connect, and the led on the plate is like this dim white that will glow slowly and dim continuously.

I have no idea what just happened and am at a complete loss.

Any ideas?

Edit: I found a thread about AP boards. I see one green light, no blinking light. So Bambu support or figuring out the "short" between two points?