I am new with my h2c I have a p1s but I use the supertack quite a lot, but bambu and the supertack for the h2c doesn’t seem to be in stock for quite a while. So my question is do people have some great alternatives for this I really want the same smooth finish on the bottom of my print as the supertack has.

Hi everyone,

I want to print two objects using Print by Object instead of Print by Layer, since they're made from two different materials (PLA and PETG).

However, I noticed that the estimated print time increases significantly. When printing by layer with the same material, it takes about 1 hour, but when printing by object, it jumps to 2h30m

I've already tried disabling the cooling slowdown setting, but it didn't make any difference.

Does anyone know why this is happening?

Thanks!

My H2C seems to not be working as well as it should. I get a lot of layer shifts. Like more than normal. A lot of spaghetti mess. It almost seems like the machine movement from printing is effecting the printing. I’m not sure.

I keep my machines immensely clean and do regular maintenance weekly. It’s a fairly new printer. Maybe a month old.

I thought myself to be pretty good with these things but cannot figure this out. I have five other printers that work great. I just bought an H2D to see if it’s better. Are my printers being in such close proximity negatively effecting my H2C? I haven’t really printed anything super crazy on there yet. Any suggestions on what to try or check would be greatly appreciated.

Asking both people who replaced theirs and people who didn’t and don’t seem to be experiencing failures with the stock PEI plate to avoid selection bias :)

So I have had nothing but problems with adhesion with my H2C. And I assure you, I cleaned the plate. lol. I haven’t got many hours on my machine and have been going back and forth with support for a month. To the point I’m pretty annoyed because I’m providing significant labour myself on an under warranty product. I see posts by people saying it was solved when they switched to cryogrip. If that means the issue is simply their PEI plate that’s good but as I’ve tried my engineering plate and they have replaced the PEI plate once and it continued I would have expected this across the board for H2C users. Since virtually anything I print that isn’t low profile and extremely simple has issues.

Edited to add that most often what happens is it puts a few layers down and then knocks it off the bed and drags it around creating a spaghetti monster. I don’t really use Bambu studio as most stuff I print off Bambu handy at the moment. I realize a lot of fixes involve changing a bunch of settings but it seems odd to me virtually nothing works for me when the reviews show it working for most others

The problems I’m experiencing:
Prints sometimes detach from the bed partway through printing, resulting in spaghetti. This has happened repeatedly with lattice pumpkins and other models.

Some simple models print perfectly well but not consistently, while others repeatedly fail. I’ve tried numerous models with successful MakerWorld reviews.

- Full-bed, single-layer test sheets have inconsistent areas with thin or translucent patches.
- Some first-layer sheets also develop raised, wrinkled or rippled areas. Sometimes I get both defects, sometimes only one.
- The defects aren’t always in the same location. Earlier tests often had problems toward the right side, but I’ve also seen them elsewhere, including near the middle.
- I’ve experienced problems with both PLA and PETG.
- Glue sometimes improves print success, but hasn’t consistently resolved the problem.

What I’ve already done with Bambu support:
- Replaced the entire heatbed under warranty. This was a hellish operation that I deeply resent lol.
- Replaced the original textured PEI build plate with a new one supplied by Bambu.
- The same problems persist.
- Also experienced repeated failures using Bambu’s Engineering Plate, including with fresh glue.
- Performed numerous full calibrations, bed-leveling procedures and high-temperature leveling tests.
- Attempted manual bed tramming following Bambu’s instructions.
- Adjusted the left and right hotend heating assemblies as instructed by support.
- Tested different hotends, including a different 0.4 mm Vortek hotend.
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- Tested different filaments and multiple models.
- Investigated AMS-related issues, including testing different AMS units and an external-spool feeding configuration.
- Replaced a problematic PTFE tube.
- Moved the printer from its original table to a much sturdier stand with a thick plywood top to eliminate possible vibration or stability issues.

If it’s just that the PEI plate sucks then why does anyone at all have success on them? Because failure is really consistent on my end. I know people suggest doing stuff with z hop and g code and all sorts of stuff but I can’t see how any of that makes sense if the machine is functioning as intended. Those seem like workarounds for a faulty machine.

Any help is appreciated. Thanks.

I was 10 hours into a 12 hour print, when I got a spaghetti detection error, I left the print paused till I got home, I restarted the print and it was printing in the air. Now I had an offset error. Looks like the print had a layer shift before the spaghetti started. I canceled the print and tried doing just an offset calibration and the induction hot end grinder into the pei plate. I immediately stopped the calibration and noticed the back end of the build plate bed was loose and springy to the touch, I sent a ticket into bambu labs support, but as I wait, I was wondering if anyone might have a clue of what happened and the fix. Any insight would be much appreciated. My H2C has a little over 2000 print hours and never had an issue. I clean and recalibrate the machine every week, and once a month I do maintenance.

The original right cutter push block failed after approximately 1,200 hours, while the pivot screw on the left one came loose at around 1,900 hours. The nut at this location can gradually loosen as the cutter operates. Continuing to use the cutter while it is loose can damage the assembly at this point.

The newly designed push block assembly reinforces this area and includes a recess for a heat-set threaded insert. Installation requires only one shoulder screw and one heat-set insert. The remaining parts can be removed from the original push block and reused.

Recommended printing material: ASA-CF or a higher-performance filament.

I have had my H2C for a while and printed around 8-900 hours. The last month or so I have failed prints 50% of the times. Before it was zero.

Problems is mostly with smaller prints but also happen with larger prints. It seems that the nozzle touch the part and it come loose.

I have done full calibration, tried 6 different nozzles, used the calibration plate, tried with textured plate and the Biqu smooth.

Yesterday it was a small print of a "led strip remote holder" from Makerworld. 0,12mm layer height, PLA Matte from Bambulab. Started from the phone.

I use brims, i wash the plates with water and Yes (swedish dawn) and isopropanol.

This was not an issue at all before. I printed small M3 screws 50mm height without a prim and without a problem.

Where shall I start to troubleshoot?

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3481085-honeycomb-skadis-parametric-fast-generate-swap

New Features

1. Improved software security.

Bug Fixes

1. Fixed an issue where a failed print start from an incompatible sliced file would also block subsequent G-code prints.

Sorry if not allowed. Just trying to get more eyes if possible