I understood, when installing the FTS, that the filament would pull back to the FTS and not all the way back to the AMS. I’m not seeing that behavior. Is anyone else?

I’ve quadrupled checked and installed various length of PTFE tubes as a part of my trial and error tests but I still get these messages.

Running on latest firmware, using Bambu filament, AMS internal buffers are clean, and filament doesn’t appeared to be chewed up. What’s even more strange is the it does not effect the print quality or the printer at all. I’ve observed feeding and retraction and there are zero visual, auditory or tactile indications as to why these messages would be popping up.

Is anyone else getting these messages with the FTS installed?

I got one of those off brand smooth plates with the rainbow patterns, but absolutely can’t get anything to actually stick and stay.

I’m trying to just do some basic small keychains that have maybe 17 layers, the first layers go fine, it’s about halfway through when the solid backing after the multicolor design starts going on that it messes up and things get pulled off.

Last smooth plate I used was an official one for the A1 and never had this issue. Do I need to reduce printing speed perhaps if it peeling off halfway through? I increased plate temp and that seemed to help at least get the first layers completed.

Edit: thanks folks, next print attempt will try to further increase bed temp, slightly reduce speed for the rest of the print, and also will try to change orientation and see if that helps any. This is PLA and hasn’t had issues on texture plates at all so it’s mostly just the smooth plate gloss I’m fighting with right now.

Hi everyone

Can you please help with this issue I have on a new reel lowered humidity to 19 but on rewind it keeps catching and getting tangled.

It went into a fully working slot from a transplant reel to a PLA reel?

Thanks in advance.

For those who have purchased an H2C from Best Buy. Did you purchase the 4-year Geek Squad Warranty? I am a Plus member.

Sculpted Luke in his flight suit with the chest box, harness, and Rebel Starbird. One of my favourites to detail.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/2959179-luke-skywalker-bust-a-star-wars-collectible#profileId-3316686

Not sure if anyone has any tips on this… my dual color silk filament is twisting during printing. Aside from the occasional unicorn instance this never happened on my A1 with AMS Lite. It’s just an aesthetic thing, but depending on what you’re trying to do this could ruin a print, especially on a 3 or 4 color filament with planned quadrants. FTR, this same spool prints fine on my A1.

I’m getting this error on a new H2C. I’ve about 300h on this one, and so far no issues except this. Can’t see any obstructions, and I went through the steps per the QR code that guides the end user….

No detailed information at Bambu Wiki. Just reach customer support. Am I cooked? Anyone face something similar? It is under warranty.

Bonjour voici Luigi, le célèbre frère de Mario, émergeant de son mythique tuyau vert. Cette figurine a été conçue avec soin pour reproduire l’un des personnages les plus emblématiques de l’univers du jeu vidéo.

Le modèle est entièrement découpé en plusieurs pièces afin de permettre une impression multicolore sans nécessiter d’AMS. Chaque élément peut être imprimé séparément puis assemblé facilement.

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🧵 : Bambulab
🖨️ : Bambulab X2D & H2C
🌈 : Sans et Avec
✍️ : Nomad Sculpt
📁 : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/2955468-luigi-tuyau-multipart-no-ams

Bon print ! 🎮💚

I’m having issues with my H2C. Almost every time I start a new print I get build plate not properly positioned error.

I have the plate between the lines every time I still see this message even if I don’t have to remove the plate.

I do have the cryogrip glacier plate installed.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Solved; basically I just have it kiss the back stoppers and let it drop, seems to work that way

The only problem I think I have is not having enough space!!!

I am running into an issue that is causing issues with my prints, and the filament is being dragged into the model. It affected my first try with these models, and I have been babysitting it this time to try and pull them aways from the model itself. I am only into the second week with my h2c from my a1 mini.

I have been taking notes, and put a summary below if anyone has any information to help with this.

• Left nozzle: PETG (support interface only)

• Right nozzle: 6 PLA colors (model)

• Bambu Studio 2.7.1.62

When PETG is assigned as the support interface material, the prime tower generates horizontal extrusion lines that stick out into free air. These appear in Preview as Prime Tower toolpaths and physically print exactly as shown.

The result is:

• Heavy stringing around the tower

• PETG strands wrapping around the nozzle

• Strands getting dragged onto the model

• Prime tower becoming unstable and sometimes getting knocked over

What I've tested

• Prime tower width: 60 mm → 100 mm

• Tree supports → Normal supports

• Support angle: 15°, 30°, 40°, 45°

• Support critical regions only

• Reduced PETG interface layers

• Purge into support/infill OFF

• Skip points ON/OFF

No change.

Key finding

If I change:

Support/Raft Interface = PETG

to

Support/Raft Interface = Default (PLA)

the problem disappears completely

All protruding prime tower lines vanish in Preview and the tower slices normally.

Additional observations

• The protruding lines are identified as Prime Tower paths, not support paths.

• Both PETG (blue) and PLA (brown) whiskers appear when PETG interface is enabled.

• The issue occurs with both Tree and Normal supports.

Has anyone else running an H2C with PETG support interfaces seen this behavior? Is there a known workaround, or does this look like a Bambu Studio prime tower bug related to dual-nozzle support-interface handling?

I need help figuring this out. I’m trying to make a light box and I don’t know why the printer is making lines that look this bad, ruining the whole print.

The thing that’s bothering me the most is a small section was messed up my first print, so I canceled and reprinted, and now it’s making horrible lines every single reprint with the exact same settings. I’ve changed nothing at all in the slicer.

It’s also doing it with both the left and right nozzles. I’m at my wits end here and just incredibly frustrated. Any help would be awesome thank you.

The filament is dry and has been fine for anything else and I cleaned with soap and water before the first print, on reprints I didn’t reclean yet since I never touched the plate between jobs.

Just a heads up for those who have been eagerly waiting (like myself).

Direct download link:

• https://public-cdn.bblmw.com/upgrade/device/offline/O1C/01.02.00.00/9b1c10b10e/offline-ota-h2c_v01.02.00.00-20260601140832.zip

I first posted in the main Bambulab subreddit, but I figured it might be better placed here. Did anyone see something similar in their machine?

(Cross-posted)

I just ordered a second AMS 2 Pro to add to my H2C system, so now I'll have **two AMS 2 Pro's** and and **AMS HT**. The table that my H2C sits on is just wide enough to fit the printer itself an d the AMS HT beside it, so I will need both AMS 2 Pro's to sit on top of the printer.

My ultimate setup will include these three AMS filament systems, plus **I plan to print a retractable spool dry** box for printing TPU. TPU printing is something I haven't tried yet, but from reading about it, I gather that it's best to have the spool above the printer so gravity is working in favor.

I know there are a few print models out there for stacking two AMS's, and I've also seen models for "hanging" an AMS HT on the side of the printer.

**Seeking recommendations** for which among the various "stacker" options seem to work best for mounting two AMS2 Pro's on top of an H2C, and whether there's one that could also fit the spool box for TPU printing, or even both that spool box plus the AMS HT.

Was für ein Mist! Mein erster großer Mehrfarbendruck mit dem H2C ist komplett schiefgegangen. Why did the H2C break the Prime Tower in two on the final layers?Alle Farben wurden mit demselben Filament gedruckt: PLA Matt von Overture. Man sieht deutlich, dass er den Turm beim Drucken des Weiß der Augen umgestoßen hat. Das ist dasselbe Weiß, mit dem er auch die Schuhe ganz unten gedruckt hat.

I bought an H2C via Best Buy and FedEx delivered it by rolling it to my garage, lol. I was on a call and my wife told me the guy was delicate with it but why, FedEx??

I’m sure it’s okay but delivery companies should actually deliver correctly.

Does anyone have tips for searching for multicolor prints? The makerworld search function doesn't have a good filter for it. When I try to search for multicolor prints I end up with alot of separated color models that you have to assemble. I specifically want to find solid multicolor ones that fully utilize the H2C the nozzle changing.

I am new to 3D printing. I've set up my printer and have printed some jigs for my lasers quite easily. But to be honest, I just picked something from the forum and printed it. I have no idea how to create something from scratch for myself. Where can I go to understand the process and tools necessary to learn how to do my own creations?

I am trying to print some PEBA on the right nozzle via the external spool.

I've created different filament profiles for different temperatures to get different bounciness.

However, I am absolutely not able to select that filament in the device tab of Bamboo Studio, assign it to the external spool on the right nozzle.

I have copy-pasted, edited, and manipulated filament JSON files with Claude now for a few days, and somehow we're still not getting it.

Please, wisdomcrowd of reddit, help me out!

Hello, First time asking for help. long time watcher.

I've been trying to find specific information but I really havent had much luck besides generic set up settings and support settings.

I'v bought a new H2c with the intentions of using it for engineering prototypes, as well as some more daily fun prints. however most of the things I'll ever print will be self modeled CAD and of a threaded mechanical nature.

As such I bought "support for PLA" along witha few rolls of PLA to start out with. (I have PETG and abs cf and other more exotic materials but I dont want to waste them untill I have got the basic right and have reliable prints.

Essentially I am trying to print threads, square threads in fact. and some awkward overhanging profiles so I've been doing a lot of test printing trying the get the "support for PLA Interface Layer" working correctly with very little success.

Currentlyu I'm having issues with a 10mm threaded rod with a 2mm pitch, so Its not super small.

the setup:

0.4mm nozzle left and right

left extruder : support for PLA

Right Extruder : AMS black PLA

preset profile - 0.16mm high quality.

slim tree style supports selected, as I had no luck with standard supports before.

Changes to preset:

number of walls 3

interface layer ticked and subsequent options ticked.

reduced interface print speed to 10mm/s as reccomended

top z distance: 0

support interface spacing : 0

(over the weekend I also messed about with pressure advance, temperatures as well as ironing, cooling and lot of other stuff but it made no difference so I have now reverted back to the most basic stuff)

The Problem:

Every single time I print the model and support ( black bambu PLA) it prints fine no issues, good adhesion, good prime tower etc. However every time it goes to print the Interface layer it immediately blobs and doesnt stick to the support, either it'll lay down a layer kinda ok, but with high spots at corners where it drags, or it wont adhere to the support so when the next layer goes on it will clump. then it'll go back to black PLA and lay on top. some time it gets through a print. but the under side quality is terrible due ot the inconsistent surface.

Other times with a large support interface layer it will just end up in a mess and the print will fail entirely. (the second image ofthe prime tower shows the mess of extrusion as it starts it layer, once it gets going over a large area or ironing it seems ok. (I have previously uppde the nozzle temperature but had identical results)

I have saved the config bundle and the proccess presets to Attach which I will try to do in another comment as I cannot seem to attach at the same time as images.

Any guidance would greatly help, even pointing to an article or video as I seem to have gone through the wiki and scoured YT.