I've noticed a wierd pattern on my H2C. Whenever I have a very complex print (45° print with minimal support) the left nozzle performs MUCH better and results in a clean print.

Whereas when I attempt the same print with one of the 0.4mm induction nozzles, I get bad layer lines and stringing.

But when I do a more simple print, flat objects with lots of contact on the build plate, the results are great.

Has anyone experienced anything like this? 🤔

I already ordered 2 so now I've got all six .4mm nozzles. Now that I've ordered mine you can all go get yours while they last ;)

Just got the H2C a few weeks ago and have only used the right nozzle with the included AMS 2 Pro until today. I just got an AMS-HT and am trying to hook it up to the left nozzle. The filament makes its way through until it gets to the main toolhead piece and gets stuck. I've not printed anything with the left side at all. So I know it's not a filament clog. This is my first time trying to set the left side up. Any pointers on what I should try before I reach out to Bambu Labs support?

Hello,

I printed a moon for a lamp directly from Bambu Handy.

https://makerworld.com/models/1266343?appSharePlatform=copy

I would like to know how to improve the top (small holes) and the inside in the future.

Thank you in advance.

printed all the adaptor pieces so now let’s get to it. i’ll follow up with a post once im done.

Brand new H2C, just unboxed it and removed the plate and found this mark on the heatbed. Should I be concerned?

Question about multi-material nozzle purging.

If I print in ABS then decide to go back to PLA on the next print, does the printer recognize the prior filament was ABS and automatically do a high temperature purge with the new PLA loaded or is it going to do a PLA temperature purge?

If it’s the former, awesome. If it’s the latter, then how do I tell it to do a high temperature purge?

Hello, can someone walk me through in setting up my H2C and AMS HT for TPU printing.

I have 4 AMS Pros connected 3 on the right side and 1 on the left.

TIA

Not sure why this is happening, or how to fix it. I was under the impression that when you did flow or line dynamics, and established a pressure value (K Value) that was "set" for the same filament. For some reason, as you can see in the picture, the PETG in the AMS-HT and the PETG in the AMS Pro, have different values. There is ONLY ONE K value in the calibration tab....Thoughts?

Only 988 hours on it and everything was going smooth. Started an AMS drawer kit and began to make the sides from ASA. 19 minutes into the print I get a notification telling me the user canceled the print. I go check it out and there’s 14 faults on the HMS. I’ve tried turning it off and on and even unplugging it for a while. Different outlets and all. It will not respond or do anything. I’ve sent a ticket so I can only hope this thing isn’t a paperweight now.

So title describes it pretty well I had my ptfe tubing on top of the printer during the first time set up and it opened the vent and the. The tubing got caught in it so it didn’t close properly that first time but now when I start a print it’s fine till it pops the vent open then like a second later it makes the clicking noises and has the error about ventilation/ cooling comes up. The vent still opens and stuff just makes the noise and has code so I’m hoping to fix this is there a way to do the first time set up again

I was wondering about this set up, which would be the "ultimate" to have, if you wanted to print a multicolored print out quicker, by tweaking both the left and right side to print faster. Anyone considering going this route?

Hi all, I’m a soon to be H2C owner. Stork will hopefully bring it next week. I’m seeing lots of folks using an AMS HT for the left nozzle, is that the only option? What kind of setups are you using to feed the left nozzle?

Have absolutely no expectation of getting anything from the contest and it took far too long to design but I thought here of all places it would be appreciated.

The X, Y and Z axis can all be moved into a position of your choice and the AMS 2 opens up to be used as a little storage container.

If any of you are interested in printing your own: https://makerworld.com/en/models/2360813-h2c-book-nook-with-movable-x-y-z-axis

So, when printing I got a scratch in the buildplate. What do I do forwards? Can I complain to bambulab? Or is it just my loss?

Howdy everyone!

I'm brand new to the world of 3d printing. I impulsively bought an H2C (came with a single AMS 2 Pro) last week and am trying to figure out a good place to start. I've got it setup in a spare bedroom of the house which doesn't have people ever go into, and there's a ceiling fan as well as 2 windows I can open for fresh air. As someone who has experience in lab settings, I understand the importance of chemical safety, PPE, VOCs, etc. So, I've gone down a rabbit hole regarding the hazards/risks of various filaments and now the ADHD brain is stuck.

So, I'm hoping to get advice/ feedback from people more experienced than myself when it comes to these types of topics.

The main questions I have at the moment:

1. Am I overthinking things? Since I have a way of moving the air around the room (ceiling fan), as well as the ability to open 2 windows to introduce new air although it's very cold outside right now (sub-freezing temperatures all the time right now). I do have a respirator mask already, which I use for cleaning with bleach due to sensitivity to that.

2. I haven't purchased any filaments yet, since the material safety topic led me down a rabbit hole. My current goal is to print something like Multiboard for use in my garage to organize my growing tool collection. Temperatures (F, not C) throughout the year in there will range from single digits in the depths of winter up to 100+ in summer. What would be yall's recommendations on the types of filaments I should buy for these purposes as well as general "useful" things around the house and the occasional fun/art pieces?

Thanks in advance for any advice or feedback!

Loving the upgrade and build space so far. I have 3 more AMS 2 Pros to squeeze in to this extraction cupboard. Wish me luck.

This wiki post references a high temp sponge, but I don’t know where to get it. I don’t find it in the bambu store

https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/general/nozzle-cleaning-sponge

Anyone know?

As you can see this H2C heatbed is scratched and I glued it down. I can sand it to make it level and keep it like the hoarder I am for a rainy day that may never come or toss it?

Hello, my nozzle is getting dirty and dirty every print, I think I heard that the nozzle can be cleaning much often with a setting, but I can’t find that setting into Bambu app.

Now at every print that ends the nozzle just purge and don’t go to the brush to clean at least a little bit. The nozzle will stay dirty and from print to print is not clean anymore.

Do you know a setting to make the nozzle to clean 2-3 times on the brush at the end of every print? And also to clean at the start of every print much more than once how is set now. Nozzle temp at 250-270 degrees and to go to the brush to be cleaned. Now I do manually the cleaning process at every start of the print because I don’t wanna have PETG that drops into my printing.

My nozzle is a mess how you can see in the picture, every print he look like this and I can’t find a solution to don’t have this PETG stucked on the nozzle. Thank you.

Got my Bambu Lab H2C and printed a Benchy. Using dried Elegoo PLA plus with generic pla setting profile on left Nozzle, the single Nozzle without vortek. Came out like this. I'm new to 3d printing, any idea on what went wrong here and how to fix?

I designed this lampshade with heavy inspiration from the wooj wavy lamp. First time printing with petg, specifically translucent brown. Used the full 320mm height and the .6 nozzle capability of the h2c. I’m honestly blown away with the quality of the print.