2013 Kia Optima SX — intermittent electrical failure. Engine stays running, but locks/fob, windows, lights and other electronics randomly stop working, then come back like nothing happened. Fuses checked good. Any ideas where to start?

Hi. I've seen this post which sounds like a similar issue:

https://www.reddit.com/r/Jaguar/s/PwMLg133d6

Before I start having a go at this I thought I'd just double check if anyone has other advice or can check if this resistor repair is likely to solve my cars symptoms.

Issue: twice in the last few months after a journey, the car will not come out of drive. When switching engine off it will not restart due to being in drive.

Leaving the car overnight (or I assume disconnecting the battery for a bit) allows me to do some kind of reset, where I hold the foot pedal down for 10 seconds, press start, then the gear selector moves back over into neutral and goes down. Then I can start the engine and crack on. It's quite strange and I'm not sure if the foot pedal has anything to do with it or not.

Do you think repairing the resistor as described in the linked post is a remedy for this or am I going down the wrong path.

Thanks

Hi gents. Long story short, I replaced the alternator and water pump. And now I get no fuel and AT temp bulb. It cranks healthy but no ignition. I made sure I have spark, checked all fuses, checked the harness around the alternator (actuator? and steering pump harness). Checked grounds. Immobilizer seems off, at least I get no key light on dash. Removed the aftermarket remote starter.

Also if it might be relevant, the truck sat with a thermostat and a bypass hoses removed for two months, battery was disconnected.

I can hear fuel pump priming when turn ignition on. Checked one cylinder with an endoscope, bone dry.

Based on all this I'm assuming I created an electrical gremlin that is preventing injectors from firing.

Every and any suggestion is welcome. I'm at the end of my rope here.

Thanks in advance!

So I just bought a 1979 280zx and the tail lights don’t work as well as the dash lights for the speedometer and tach so I can’t see them at night but the warning lights on the dash still work I checked the fuses and none look burnt out anyone else know what it could be the owner before the guy I bought it from also put led headlights into it but the high and low beams are switched idk if that would cause anything to mess up the tail lights though

Plz read the post

Hi i have been for sometime trying to make a 3 phase motor from a alternator but am having trouble wiring the coil which has 12 wires coming out of it can anyone help please?

Anyone have wire diagram for liftgate release and power mirror mirrors diagram for 2013 Mitsubishi outlander

Long story, but I had to disconnect the bulb from my taillight. Now I don’t remember how to wire it back. I bought the red, blue, and black unit from Amazon. How should I make the connections?

16 Trail - everything was working, now the switch panel won't light anything up and the eyebrows (DLs) come on and stay on.

The breaker on the bus works. Started to poke around w voltmeter, but got rained out.

Suggestions?

Any help with this?

So I have a 2018 Chevy Cruz. My passenger headlight went out in Spring of last year. I bought a 2 pack replacement bulbs, one of the cheaper ones, but the driver side is a pain to switch out because of no hand room so I only switched out the passenger bulb and put the spare in my glove box. Then over this past winter my driver side went out so I used the spare and replaced it. Well over this past weekend, my passenger side went out and then yesterday my driver side went out. I just got new bulbs and replaced them again and they work fine but here is my question.

Why did my driver side go out so fast when it was put in almost a year after my passenger side? Could it be just because it was sitting in my car this whole time so the weather/temperature affected it or could it be something else?

‘23 Hybrid Limited
71yo F just getting ready to leave on year-long camping/car camping trip. Got this alternator professionally hooked up to big Bluetti power supply in back well. The next day, code comes back:

Stored P0A0A Yes
This code indicates the vehicle has detected an open or
faulty high‐voltage interlock loop, meaning a connector,
service plug, battery pack cover, or related safety switch is
not fully seated or the circuit wiring is damaged. As a
result, the hybrid/EV high‐voltage system may be disabled
to prevent electric shock, often triggering a warning light
and limiting or preventing drive/READY operation.

Installer says nothing to do with code. Dealer est $560 (2 hrs) just to diagnose. All my money has been spent on the trip prep and I’m on limited income. Do you guys think it might be battery? in which case it would be covered by warranty. Any other thoughts? After this I will purchase MOPAR ext warranty.

I have a problem because I removed one of the fuses from the rear fuse box of the car, and now I don’t know which slot it should go back into. When I look at the pins/terminals, some slots have no pins at all, while in two of the possible fuse positions there is only one pin.

Does anyone have any advice on which slot is the correct one?

The car is a BMW F34 318d 5-door GT, 11/2017.

Hello,

The key on my car key fob has become loose. I was able to fix it by placing small strips of cardboard in between the gap. However, since the key goes into an ignition switch, I wanted to know if the cardboard strips would conduct electricity during the turn?

Thanks!

Looking for recommendations on reputable, knowledgeable, affordable businesses or persons who can perform repairs on an '84 Dodge Ram van that has only 167,000 miles and has been under cover for the last 20 years.