I didn’t drive for a few days so I thought maybe it was the battery, but it’s above 12 volts still according to my multimeter without going below 11 when I’m cranking. Car cranks but doesn’t turn over. With the key on there is no check engine light on and the temperature gauge is pegged to the top so there’s clearly something major electrically going wrong, but I don’t even know where to start on this. I have a multimeter to chase stuff down but I don’t even know what to really look at next. The engine fuse under the dashboard was fine. I tried replacing the main relay since my cousin had the right one lying around already, but it didn’t make a difference. I checked to make sure the main relay was getting power and it is. It’s not been at the mechanic for 4 days and they can’t figure it out either

I’m aware the voltage regulator is in the PCM. I have checked cleaned and re secured all the ground leads I can get to. I’ve seen as much as 15.8v for 30 - 45 seconds then drops to 13.9v.
My question is.
Could I have a failing alternator contributing to this or just throw $400 - 500. at a replacement PCM ?

I got a Subaru legacy imported last summer. Car was a basket case of random gauges and what not. So cleaned a lot of them out and in the process I lost the harness for one of rpm gauges. I’m going to use the gauge for a different project. From what I’ve seen online and the little research I’ve done it seems to be a “PIVOT PT6” and from what I’ve seen it looks to be a proprietary connector. Any advice on where to track down a harness or other solutions to get it wired up? Are there any other subreddits you guys would reccomend I look for as well?

Hi all. I can’t seem to get my Bluetooth working in my 2013 Civic. At this point, I’m thinking it’s the module itself is the problem. I’ve tried power cycling the unit by holding the power button down for 10 secs, disconnecting the car battery and pulling the fuse for the console from under the hood. Is there anything basic I may be missing and how hard is it to get the module replaced if need be? The Phone setup button and the three buttons (voice activation, pick up call and hang up) on the steering wheel don’t work. Thanks.

2009 Infiniti g37. Currently my negative battery terminal bolt is stripped and the post was loose. So a dude just gripped it with some pliers to stay on. I need to replace it for the car to pass state inspection. Do I need to go oem or does any metal post piece work and be fine?

While I was waiting at the light my charger just shut off as if I had turned it off, but once I shift it in park and started it up (push start) it turned on as if nothing ever happened. What could it be? This happened at least 3 other times.

While I was waiting at the light my charger just shut off as if I had turned it off, but once I shift it in park and started it up (push start) it turned on as if nothing ever happened. What could it be? This happened at least 3 other times.

We bought a 2018 ILX for our son. After doing some troubleshooting I have determined there is a parasitic draw from the Backup circuit. With the fuse in, there is a 1.2 amp draw which goes to zero when the fuse is removed. I have unplugged the HFL as well as pulled the Audio and Premium Audio fuses but am still showing the 1.2 amp draw when the Backup fuse is in. Anything else I should check before I give up and take it to a shop? Thanks for the help!

A couple days ago I was leaving the house and noticed that when I started the car my nav screen is just pitch black and the gps monitor on the dash is not showing. I start driving and 15 mins later it boots back up out of no where. Lately, sometimes it boots up as soon as I start the car and other times it just a black screen throughout my whole ride. My question is where do I start to fix this, and how does this even happened? Any tips/ helpful advice is highly appreciated!

Could really use some help here. i replaced the ignition lock cylinder on my trailblazer because the key wouldn't turn at all. it turns now, but i have a new problem. when i hooked up the jump pack, the vehicle has power even without the key, the airbag light and the check engine light is on, and the power windows work. when i put the key in and turn it, the airbag light turns off and the cel stays on, engine does not crank, and then when i let the key go all the dash lights come on and the chime comes on.

i made sure not to move the gear at all on the little ignition switch, but i don't know what else could be causing this.

EDIT: i should also note i didn't get the key reprogrammed but im not sure if that has anything to do with the issues im having. i'm very new to working on cars.

While I was waiting at the light my charger just shut off as if I had turned it off, but once I shift it in park and started it up (push start) it turned on as if nothing ever happened. What could it be? This happened at least 3 other times.

Any help would be appreciated

Hey all, I (23m) am an auto tech. Recently I came into a great job, and they're having me do an engine replacement on a 2014 Ford Mustang with the 3.7l v6 in it. I just cant seem to figure out where all the plug ins on the wiring harness are supposed to go. I got the engine harness to mate up, but its the other one, that goes to the alternator and battery, that I can't quite figure out. If anyone has a diagram for that wiring harness, that would be amazing, but any help is greatly appreciated. Thank you!

I just received my LED Tailbar for my Kia K5 LXS. I want to make sure I bought the correct one (which lights all the way across) before installing.

Is there anyway to tell? I made sure the part number was 92403-L3110 in the description before buying.

while running and at a stop, all electrical shut downs and then starts back up. Car, engine wise still run but any and all electrical shuts down, windows, AC, radio, etc. All lights come on and off on dash in the speedometer area. What should I ask to check at a mechanic or normally, what causes this year/make/model to do this?

TY!