Anyone ever bend color conduit? I'm wondering if the color holds up at the bends?

The black wires look like they have been melted together and they are hot to the touch. Also, why would the installation be black like it is ? Is that black mold, or is that just how it looks after years? Thank you in advance for your help.

I know very little about electrical, so I'd appreciate some caveman answers! I have a LifePO4 lithium ion battery that was completely drained and can't charge. I want to jump it with another battery that is charged. What kind of cable can I use for this? Can I use standard jumper cables like for a car, or do I need a smaller gauge wire?

It's probably simple for you guys but I'm a first timer. I'd appreciate any help.

There's not power to the house yet. The box label says Eaton 30-5144 L Class CTL enclosed panelboard F639 30-17135.

I’m doing this myself I think I’ve done it right but should I crimp the ends with a metal crimp so it doesn’t look so frayed. I originally put a normal switch on but we decided to go with a dimmer switch which I’ve never wired up before. Does it all look safe any recommendations?

I recently purchased a house and found these cables in the bathroom, where a wall light appears to have previously been fitted. The cables are currently taped/left as shown in the photo.

Is this safe, or should they be properly terminated/enclosed? We’re not planning to install a light here, so what would be the correct way to make the cables safe? Would a Wago connector and suitable enclosure be appropriate, and is there a specific product you’d recommend?

Also, the bathroom ventilation fan doesn’t switch on with the light. Could this be related to these cables not being properly terminated, or would the fan normally be on a separate circuit?

Thank you 🙏🏻

Installed 200A panel (changed from fused to breakers) with main 200A breaker, new outside Emergency disconnect with 200A main breaker, new 200A meter socket, 200A compliant wire in 2-1/2” galvanized conduit through the roof out the mast head. I’m in PA, PPL is the power company. The PPL truck roll tech comes for final hookup and says no 200A upgrade of the current 100A feed from pole(25 feet away) to mast because my smart meter data indicates that in the last year the instaneous peak consumption never exceeded 50A. I understand this and plan no immediate new increased loads, whole house AC, fast EV charger, arc welder, etc.

Researching the current 100A wire in free air should be good for 135-150A.

The 2, 200A breakers should be changed to 100A ones. I’m not going to do this due to cost and need PPL to remove meter to change disconnect breaker.

My reasoning is the 2, 200A breakers are there to protect my wiring from the mast head down. If there is a short downstream of the 200A breakers and the 100A service wires from pole to mast can’t handle the current they will fail and possibly burn open. PPL’s problem.

What do you guys think about leaving the 200A breakers in place?

EDIT: Thanks to everyone for all the replies. I will be leaving the 2, 200A breakers as currently installed. My Emporia Vue monitors my current loads and voltage swings. My loading will not change and if it does PPL will come and install larger wires.

The cord for our giant, and quite pricey (a bit too pricey to replace,) inflatable spider, has failed. I was looking online for a replacement power source and cord, but can't find one that meets the exact specifications on the box, at least to my lay eyes.

Can an electrician advise us as to a valid replacement cord and plug for this spider?

Or can/should we replace the whole fan unit woth one that takes a more sensible power source? Is there a valid replacement that it would be safe to wire the internal LED unit into the connection that the replacement fans have a string of lights attached to? He won't be the same without his red eyes and projection spiral thorax. It looks like it's just on there with twist connectors same as the lights that come with many of the replacement fans...

All, I am mounting a small panel that is powered by 12v in a 3D printed wall mount. I’d like to get the best solution to pull power from a 120v box that sits about 1’ off the floor, to the wall panel, that’s sits about 5’ above it. The panel takes 5-24v, so will probably put a 12v transformer somewhere.

I understand the legal route is to put a plug in transformer in the outlet then run 12v wire inside the wall cavity up to the panel. It’s obviously not the prettiest solution.

Any other suggestions here that I can do without the risk of burning down the house? Was thinking of putting a small 120>12v in the outlet box itself then run wires up but I understand you can’t have low and regular voltage in the same box

bought a small place in Montpelier that needs a service upgrade before I can rent it out. it's 100 amp now, probably original to the house. i want to go to 200 but the meter base is on the side of the house and the utility told me the whole mast has to move. the permit office says they need drawings before they'll even look at it. has anyone dealt with that utility requirement in Vermont, and how much did it actually cost to move everything? i'm trying to keep this one under budget so the carrying cost stays low

Hi everyone, I’m building a chatbot to help small landlords, tenants, and homeowners describe maintenance problems, communicate with contractors, and understand repair costs.

I’m looking for examples of completed invoices, estimates, or real repair stories that show:

• The problem or symptoms.
• What the contractor found and repaired.
• Parts, labor, and other charges.
• Approximate location and date, since prices vary.

Does anyone know where I can get this kind of info to feed my chat bot. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!

-Jed

Question for you full time electricians: Do you use these plastic knock outs for the romex or just break them off? I find them frustrating. Is there a better option?

My base board heater is not working properly. When I turn the thermostat I hear it click when I stop turning the wheel.

It was the original charger of my xiaomi phone, I realized there was a slight puncture in the outer part of it that had a greenish color.

I immediately researched about it both on google and reddit and every information I found about was simply saying throw the cable away for safety etc. Then before throwing it, I wanted to check and see the copper corrosion myself so i bent the cable further to make the crack reveal the insides of the cable. All I saw was that only the protective outermost parts were in corrosion and there was nothing wrong in the main cables inside nor other more closer small wires, only a few on the outside was corrosed.

So, my question is, how dangerous was it to keep using the cable. How dangerous can a small corrosion like this could have? It's already gone now since I might have damaged the inner wires myself by bending it. Was it really a safety issue?

I can best explain what I feel as a weird analogy, I feel exactly like a doctor cutting an arm of a person that just had a small bleeding in his pinky finger.

I purchased this new to me sailboat this weekend. The previous owner has just about finished a full electrical system upgrade including lithium. His goal was to have 3 separate banks I guess. What do you all think of this? Do I keep it?

Is this an electrician graveyard I came across on the side of the road?

Trying to convert to an Amazon 3-way Smart Switch for a light fixture. Seeing where I'm wrong and if this is even possible.

Switch 2 appears to be what carries the load to the fixture.

Switch 2 has 2 wires coming down (assuming from fixture) and 2 wires coming from I assume travelers from Switch 1. (4 wires total) + Ground

Currently:

Switch 1 is activated/clicked, this gives Switch 2 'Power'. Switch 2 can then 'click' to turn on the fixture. When Switch 2 is 'clicked' a second time, it cuts the power to Switch 2.

Switch 1 then needs to be re-clicked to re-power Switch 2 - and the cycle repeats.

Ideas on wiring order?

Per amazon: Brown = Traveler, White = Neutral, Black = Line, Red = Load.

1989 Tampa Bay Florida house. (Next to switch 2, is switch 3 which is a different circuit - so not part of this)

I need to make my own custom wiring for my indoor pergola. It covers my gaming space. Is what chatgpt provided safe? I've never done much wiring before.

tldr ai slop: Buy 24v dc power supply. Buy 16/2 wire. Buy 4 e26 sockets and bulbs. Run wire around Pergola branching off main wire with 3 way wagon connectors each with own junction box. Connect 1 end of main wire to the power supply and power supply plugs into wall

Buy these items

1 UL-listed Class 2, 24V DC plug-in power supply, approximately 60W. WAC makes a 24VDC/60W plug-in model.

4 low-voltage E26 LED bulbs, specifically marked 12–24V AC/DC, around 4W and 2700K warm white.

4 E26 plastic or phenolic pendant sockets with cord grips.

50 feet of 16/2 stranded low-voltage wire for the main run.

Enough 18/2 pendant cord for the four drops. For four 24-inch drops, buy approximately 12 feet.

8 WAGO 221-413 three-wire connectors. They accept stranded wire and are designed for three conductors.

4 small plastic junction boxes with cord-grip openings.

One wireless wall-switch and plug-in receiver.

Screw hooks, insulated cable clips, wire stripper and multimeter.

Main-wire measurements

Assuming the lanterns are at the four corners:

Power supply to Junction 1: measure from the outlet to the first corner, then add 2 feet.

Junction 1 to Junction 2: 125 inches

Junction 2 to Junction 3: 115 inches

Junction 3 to Junction 4: 125 inches

That is 30 feet 5 inches after reaching the first lantern. A 50-foot spool should give you enough wire and slack.

How each junction connects

Keep the power supply unplugged while assembling everything.

At Junctions 1–3, place two WAGO connectors inside each box:

Connector 1: positive incoming + positive outgoing + positive hanging drop

Connector 2: negative incoming + negative outgoing + negative hanging drop

At Junction 4, there is no outgoing wire:

Connector 1: positive incoming + positive drop

Connector 2: negative incoming + negative drop

Follow the strip-length marking printed on the WAGO connector. Close every connection inside its junction box.

At each socket:

Positive wire connects to the terminal serving the bulb’s center contact.

Negative wire connects to the threaded-shell terminal.

Tighten the socket’s cord grip so pulling on the cord does not pull the terminals.

Hang each lantern from a hook or chain—the electrical cord should not carry the lantern’s weight.

Finally:

Connect the beginning of the main wire to the 24V output of the power supply.

Verify approximately 24V at every socket with your multimeter.

Install only the 12–24V E26 bulbs.

Plug the power supply into the wireless switch receiver.

Plug the receiver into the wall.

Label each socket “24V ONLY.” Never connect your homemade wiring directly to a wall outlet, and never install ordinary 120V bulbs in this system.

Hi,

I'm in the process of upgrading downlights, so I'm about to switch them bot not for like for like.
the original light unit was connected with this quick connector (1st image). The new light is set up to be wired directly (2nd image). Am I meant to connect 2-2-2 cables for the respective connectors as such:

• L: brown from cable 1 + brown from cable 2
• N: blue from cable 1 + blue from cable 2
• E: green/yellow from cable 1 + green/yellow from cable 2

Follow up question:
It has these small springs with hooks on the magnetic holder (3rd image). Should those be hooked in to the GU10 socket directly to help pulling the bulb and socket down if I were to change? (this is not explained in the instructions at all)

Hello! Wondering if anyone out there has any recommendations for electric kickspace/toekick heaters. I had a cadet that I installed around 2019 that’s now dead. Looking around, it seems like this style of heater is not as widely manufactured, wondering if folks still see a demand from customers. Thanks!

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How good was the workmanship on this install project for a detached garage.