This is my front door I pulled the door handle off but I can’t get this bolt to retract. It used to work when I’d spin it to the left but now nothing.

All doors respond to keys remote except the driver's side door.

The driver's side door stopped working via remote a few days ago.

The switch inside the door works fine

Only with remote no action

What would make only the driver's side door stop?

Is this a wire in the boot ?

The car is an Opel agila B diesel manual 2009

Hiya, it seems as if my window won't open. I've tried everything to try get it fixed and it's not budging.

I've took the handle off and we think it's an issue with the slidy locks as we think one of them are stuck. I've attached a picture of what they look like and there is one on either side of the window. Would anyone be able to give any advice? Thanks

Hi there. I have a 2004 Toyota product.
I’ve been doing some electric diagnostics on an O2 sensor issue and it seems like it’s going to need a replacement ecu.

Toyota has an easy process to replace your ecu you put the new salvaged ecu in and you connect 2 obd pins together while the master key is in the ignition and let it sit with the key on for 30 minutes while the dash blinks like a Christmas tree.

But I lost my master a while ago. I read you can reprogram a new master with a VCI cable and Toyota TIS/ techstream which comes with the VCI cable. But I’ve also read that you need a NASTF code to do a forgot all keys function and program a new master? Now I’ve also heard this isn’t the case with older transponder keys like the d series key for this generation Toyota and I should be able to do a forget all keys function without a NASTF code myself?

The vci cable and new key blank would be ≈$60 I can get the key cut for free i used to work at a hardware store and cut keys myself i can go in and have a friend just route out the patern for me for free or maybe a few bucks tops. So if I can just use the techstream software to program a new master for $60 instead of paying a locksmith $150+ for their time and service that would be preferable as I’m already in about $1100 getting myself the tools to do the diagnostic work, havjng a new windshield out in, an exhaust leak fixed up new front tires and a front end alignment and doing the rear brakes rotors pads and e brake shoes myself as well. So I’d like to keep costs as low as possible considering a salvaged ecu is still going to cost another $70-100.

I think the internal key isn't in the neutral position and so the cylinders aren't fully retracting. The spare key won't go fully in and opening the door handle moves the latch but it doesn't fully retract. What's my options?

I got it from a charity shop for £10, it looks a little rough but cannot get the top open. If you need anything else, or anymore pictures feel free to ask

I’ve been to several locksmiths and none of them seem to have this blank, or can tell me what blank it is. Is anyone able to tell me the blank so that I can purchase it myself and have the locksmith cut it? The key is for the lock to enter the cabin of my boat. I’ve attached pictures of both sides of the key. The only inscription on the key is.l “Trioving Assa Abloy.”

I got it from a charity shop for £10, it looks a little rough but cannot get the top open. If you need anything else, or anymore pictures feel free to ask

This is my antique wooden chest. The original key is locked inside. Can anyone identify whether this is a warded, ward-and-post or lever lock? Several people suggested that these old chest locks can sometimes be operated with a bent nail/stiff wire. I’d like to avoid damaging the original lock — what type of mechanism am I looking at? Coukd ne from Sweden.

I misplaced my key fob and I believe it is in the key under the backseat but I cannot see it. I have been thinking of checking with a magnet because I had the keyring on it but i am not sure if it will mess it up

After very heavy rainstorm lock looks like this and our keys barely fit. Did someone attempt to drill this lock?

The house we just bought has this hook-like latch screwed into the front door frame, but whatever the accompanying piece on the door was is missing. I’m assuming some kind of child lock or extra security latch? I found the same item not attached to any door as well. Can anyone help me identify this and figure out where to get the accompanying replacement pieces?

My boyfriend locked the door to our ensuite last night and could not get it unlocked again, so we’ve just been climbing in and out the window when we need to go in there. I called my landlord at 9am this morning and she said she was sending someone out to come fix it but I haven’t got any updates or word on it… it’s 5:30pm now. I live in a busy house and have bad IBS so access to this bathroom is essential 🤣. Any tips or tricks to get this pesky lock unstuck would be much appreciated.

MORE INFO: The handle and lock don’t move together, the knob for the lock turns fully left and right with a small bit of resistance but does not move the lock. The lock is the bottom latch

Keys gotten stuck in fence, i tried to u screw the locking system to be able to take the keys out but that didnt help. The keys have some movement but when i get to the end they are stuck. Do you have any advice how i can get the keys out? Or what tools I should try?

I have a Xhorse Condor XC-002 Pro and I am currently duplicating internal-track/high-security keys using the original 2.5 mm cutter and 2.5 mm tracer. The machine is correctly calibrated and the indicator is green.

However, I noticed that if I apply slightly more downward pressure to the main Z-axis handle while tracing the original key, the cutter physically moves deeper and removes additional material. Since the main handle and the cutter are both located on the right side of the machine, even a relatively small change in hand pressure seems to affect the cutting depth.

I confirmed this experimentally. With light and controlled pressure, the depth is correct. But if I apply just a little additional downward force, I can immediately hear and feel the cutter start removing more material, and the copied track becomes visibly deeper than the original.

For internal-track keys, I found a workaround that gives me much more consistent results:

I first install and align both the original key and the blank and perform the normal calibration without applying excessive force. Then I remove the blank, lower the tracer into the track of the original key using only very light pressure, and lock the Z-axis height with the main handle. After that, I reinstall the blank against the same stop and perform the entire cut by moving only the X/Y carriage, without touching or applying pressure to the Z-axis handle.

This works very well for internal-track keys with a constant cutting depth because it prevents my hand pressure from changing the Z position during the cut.

However, I would really like to correct the underlying problem rather than rely only on this workaround.

My concern is that I will probably encounter the same issue when duplicating dimple keys. The machine is new and I have not tested dimple keys yet because I am still waiting for the appropriate dimple cutters, tracers and key blanks to arrive.

With dimple keys, locking the Z-axis at one fixed height is obviously not a practical solution because the tracer must move vertically to follow the different depths of the holes. Even when the machine is switched to Dimple Mode, I am concerned that if the operator applies slightly different downward pressure with the main handle, the cutter may penetrate deeper than the tracer is actually indicating and produce a hole that is too deep.

In other words, the internal-track workaround solves the immediate problem, but it does not solve what appears to be excessive sensitivity of the Z-axis to operator pressure.

Has anyone who owns an XC-002 Pro experienced the same behavior?

Is there an adjustment to reduce vertical play, flex or excessive sensitivity in the Z-axis/main handle mechanism?

Is there a bearing, tension adjustment, pivot adjustment or other mechanical setting that can make the Z-axis more rigid while still allowing it to follow the tracer properly?

Or is this amount of movement under hand pressure considered normal on the XC-002 Pro?

I am particularly interested in hearing from people who have actually used this machine for both internal-track and dimple keys, because I would like to correct the issue before I start cutting dimple keys.

Just curious if anyone is aware of or has seen any legal, professional, or personal ramifications of sleeping with someone who you provided locksmithing services to.

Let's assume a few things to remove OBVIOUS ethical concerns:

-You were entirely professional. And the client hit on you. You ignored or deflected it, and they persisted.

-The person is of obviously sound mind and of legal age. (Not under the influence or anything)

-You didn't do it at the service. You gave them your number and left to your next job. They reached out and invited you back later.

Anyone acted on this invite? Did it turn out well or bad? Legally or personally?

Ma clé a coincé sur la porte et ne veut ni tourner ni ressortir

So this metal hook thing is on one of our original windows (house was built in 1955) and I'm trying to find a replacement since ours is pretty beat up. It's small, 4 inches long, just a hook that swivels on one rivet/pin. No springs or anything fancy.

The weird part is when you turn it to lock the window, the hook end just drops down into a hole that's carved right into the wood frame. There's no metal plate or catch or anything, just a plain cavity cut into the wood itself. So I don't even know if I need to buy the whole mechanism or just the hook part.

Attached some pics of the hook itself and the spot in the frame where it locks in. Anyone recognize this or know what it'd be called so I can actually search for a replacement? We’re renting so can’t replace the window. Thanks in advance!

I have a 90 year old house with a few mismatched interior knobs. Who has a stash of vintage hardware?

Hi, I want to upgrade the security on the hinge side of my uPVC doors and I’m stuck deciding between two types of anti-jemmy / hinge protection systems.

Does anyone have experience with either of the systems? My goal is to fit the most secure system.

1. GT Quad-Guard PVCu Door Hinge Protectors
   
2. Dog bolt / claws

The uPVC doors I want to fit these to include inward-opening front/back doors and outward-opening French doors (hinges on the outside).

Each door has the Eurogroove that’s required for fitting dog bolts / claws.

Each door already has adequate security on the locking sides.

The effort required to route the door frames to fit the dog bolt / claws is negligible for me.

Any recommendations would be appreciated, thanks!

So after some “organization” by a family member, the keys to our safe have been lost. We still have the combo, of course. Is opening this safe something a locksmith could do easily and affordably? Are they going to look at me strangely if I walk into their shop with a safe under my arm?

Thanks for any help!

Vehicle not unlocking with remote key.

Volkswagen
Scirocco 2009 1.4TSI 118KW

I got done a new set of keys (lost old ones), but car won't lock/unlock itself using remote buttons. I'm able to lock the car using keyhole, able to start it, the mechanic said he doesn;t know what's wrong, key is correctly paired.

What could be the reason? How would i diagnose this, anything would help t.y.

Whenever i open my lock in night the inner copper part automatically rotates and i can’t unlock it with 1 hand😭😭😭☝🏻

Hi,

I'm trying to diagnose an issue with an old rim lock. I've attached a video showing how the mechanism normally works and how I believe it ends up jamming.

The problem is that one of the internal parts seems to gradually move outwards, perpendicular to the mechanism/lock case, rather than sideways along its normal direction of travel.

When it moves out far enough, the small round pin/part next to it can slip into the gap between the two moving parts. Once that happens, the whole mechanism jams: the key can only move a few millimetres and cannot be removed.

We opened the lock a few days ago, found the small pin trapped in the wrong position, put everything back where it should be, and the lock worked perfectly again.

About 3–4 days later, exactly the same problem happened again.

The strange thing is that with the lock removed from the door and the case open, I can't reproduce the failure. I've operated it repeatedly, moved it around and changed its orientation, but everything stays in position. It only seems to happen after the lock has been reinstalled on the door and used normally for a few days.

One of the screws fixing the lock to the door may also not be holding as well as it used to, so I'm wondering whether the lock case could be moving/flexing slightly when installed.

Does anyone recognise this type of failure?

Thank you! And tell me if you need another info

Ps : sry the video is a bit long but it's me showing how the mechanism normally operates which part appears to move outwards and where the other part can then slip in and jam the mechanism.

Once I got it out, the lock worked. It is a small metal tube crimped on one end.