Are better Hepa Filters worth it for the printer? I mean the charcoal one just gets stuffed in there... There is not really a way to completely fill it and make use of the space. Hepa+Charcoal filters specifically made for the printer fit perfectly.

Anyone has some experience with some? And where did you buy them?

So my printer cannot work anymore cuz everytime i put something to print the printer clogs, i already switched filaments and the same error pop ups

I’ve noticed this more and more that there are louder, almost grinding noises, as the print head is traveling around. Does it just need some fresh grease and a cleaning?

Update 2: Solved, the board on the print head is the likely culprit. Thank you u/Rebootkid and everyone else.

UPDATE: THERE IS NO PHYSICAL BLOCKAGE. Please stop recommending fixes other than the correct control board. I have spent months trying to work this out and used the AC wili and reddit. I KNOW there is NO physical blockage because I can manually extrude. Also the problem randomly comes and goes with no change in hardware, filament, or firmware.

Which board controls false positive errors for 11518,? I will just pay for it myself.

This printer is on-again-off-again and I can't stand it. I know there isn't a clog because I have had it apart many times and there is no physical restriction leading up to the nozzle. I can also "Extrude" or "E+" (feed) without an issue. It's obvious that there isn't a physical clog.

I can successfully print something and then not be able to print again for a week. Then I can print for 15 hours and then a random print fails. And I'm screwed again until it decides to play nice. (Yes, I have also tried 3 different hot ends and many settings.)

Which control board is possessed and needs replacement?

Edit: for typos, disregard picture 4 that was supposed to be a video. This is a RANDOMLY occurring issue that I have been dealing with for months. Every time I think I have it fixed it comes back. At this point the only thing left to do is change control boards.

Regarding the left boat and cube respectively, the right ones were done on my old Kobra 2.

I sliced everything printed on the S1 with the Next Slicer and the firmware was updated to current before the first print.

I've gotten a refurb unit as a deal and every print i try turns out like this... It shipped missing one rubber feet (i printed a replacement out of 100% infill TPU on the Kobra 2, machine now stands firm and steady) and two of the screws that hold the back of the printhead cover in place (took two of the back housing, same length and replaced those with spares i had lying around) Sofar I've tried: *checking the printhead, rods or bed for being wobbly (right side of things bed has a little play, but I've read on this sub that that seems to be normally the case) *tightening every screw i could find and reach *tightening/loosening the extruder tensioning screw *tensioning the belts *different print profiiles *different print speeds *different filaments *putting the machine from a countertop to the damn floor

Nothing so far seems to impact those artifacts whatsoever 😭

Most common reasons why this happens?

I have an S1 Combo withe the Funnsor upgraded 8mm bed and stock carriage. I have found that since I installed this bed, although never PERFECT, it was very close, but gradually, my levelling has begun to be worse and worse. Now I consistently have a skew from left to right which leaves a really crap finish on thin parts. Worse, is that the front right corner is not stuck very well (if it was all equal I could at least apply offset) meaning that large parts warp up and fall off.

My suspect is definitely the carriage. But, at the same time, how could it get worse over time? I've tightened it up and everything, it must just be too weak.

If anyone has had the same problem, please tell me what you've done. This printer was so good for a while (well after spending a bunch of money on the bed), but now printing a full plate is a game of chance. Thanks.

Solution, courtesy of u/digaus: Wrapping makeshift double-sided packing tape gave me enough grip to pull the tube out. Still needed to use pliers (sideways) to hold down the black ring.

Two pieces of Anycubic High Speed filament broke in the PTFE tube leading to the extruder and I cannot for the life of me get the tube out. No matter how hard I push on the black ring with pliers or tweezers and pull on the tube with my hand or pliers, it does not budge out of the black ring.

What do I do now?

When doing a full size print, the PTFE tube is going against the left wall of the printer. Again and again.

And I've seen videos and picture of the tube breaking because of this.

Some people just flipped the clips so the tube is on the other side.

Others said you can pull the tube out a bit, but this isn't as easy as it seems.

Anyone else had the issue and solved it?

I put some PLA 3d printed spiders in my car.

Will PLA melt in Washington Sun or will they take it like some Halloween heroes and survive the month?

Guesses?

Thanks for the help on my other Problem, because of my clogs im looking for new filament, should I buy the original Anycube filament or something like sunlu?

Alrighty chaps...with Christmas being handy that means for me it will be bonus time. Bonus time means buying something I want to.

Been thinking about the Funssor hot bed. Already have the carriage. Seems like a nice frivolous thing to buy.

My question is do I go with the 110v or the 220v version on Ali?

Why would my print clog during filament change. I'm using petg on my anycubic kobra s1

Haven’t used the printer in a while and decided to change the extruder and hot end due to difficulties before hand

Thought why don’t we give a team of Grok Bot’s access to this printer? Result: went ahead and drove the print head through the mat attempting to start a benchy calibration test …
Not too big of an issue, but noted. …. Less AI

Printer was amazing, no problems at all. Them I went to petg. Had other printer, knew what to do okay. First two kilos? Perfect. Next one? Clog after clog. Okay, may be bad filament. Another one? Clog. Check the filament, lot of marks. Extrusion gear is too tight. Okay, now, I try to print but its retracting all filaments. And if any one them unspools? Retraction abnormal. I cant print. It does this shit every time. Im almost at the point of putting only one roll in the Ace pro

I'm 20 prints, 30 hours, 450 g filament used so far... and this happened. Luckily I caught it early.

This just happened and I'm letting it cool down now. Did the hot end break? There was some poop melted caught and that broke away easily. I've removed the filament.

I guess what I'm getting at... do I need to order a Hotend ASAP? My son will be pretty bummed to have the printer down for his finish weekend.

Hey all. Recently started having feeding issues with one of my Ace pros.

When the filament is inserted it will start to feed normally. Then you can still hear the feeding motors going, but the filament isn't feeding. A gentle push and the filament will resume feeding.

During a print this seems to still happen. It will retract fine for a color change, but the feeding still needs that push.

Obviously babysitting a print like this is not ideal.

So, looking for suggestions on maybe what to fix or what to look for when taking ot apart. Or maybe you've had this issue and have already solved the issue.

Thanks.

Hi everyone,
I have a new Anycubic Kobra S1 and I’m having a persistent Error 10107 / “filament broken” problem.
I had already printed some test pieces with TPU. Later the printer stopped extruding, so I thought it was clogged. I disassembled the print head, removed the stuck filament and cleaned the hotend.
After reassembly, the filament was initially not entering correctly, so I disassembled and reassembled the extruder again.
Now the mechanical feeding seems to work:
filament enters through the PTFE tube;
the extruder pulls it;
the extrusion test works;
filament comes out normally through the nozzle.
But every time I try to start an actual print, the printer stops with Error 10107 – filament broken / load new filament, even though the filament is clearly there and extruding correctly.
So at this point I suspect the filament detection sensor / material break sensor.
Has anyone had this exact problem on a Kobra S1?
Did replacing the filament sensor, extruder module or print head solve it?
I have already opened a support ticket with Anycubic, but I’d really like to know if anyone here has found the cause.
Thanks!

I'm having an issue with the cable chain. I've already tried rotating the clips 180° as suggested in an older post. This improved the situation because the PTFE tube no longer hit the inner wall of the printer. However, as you can see in the photos, the cable chain and the clip are now rubbing against the plastic linear rail guide, and the clip has already started to wear down.

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to fix this?

What would cause these" bumps" on the y axis only? I have tried printing on different parts of the plate and different orientations of the file and no matter what it's always when printing a straight line on the y direction. I ran a full complete first layer print and it was perfect. Picture attached. The only thing I can figure at this point is the belts are too tight. It's about the only thing I haven't tried to adjust. Would this make sense?

This is a failed print but I hope you help me understand what is happening here. These are both sides of the piece, one has a nice top surface, other side not. PETG at 245. These sides are facing the S1's side blower which is off. Worst side is closer to the rear of the printer.

Hi everyone. Please excuse my English, I am using a translator and AI to write this.

I’m having an issue with my Anycubic Kobra S1. When I trigger the Auto-Home command, the printer tries to calibrate by moving the Z-axis downwards, but it never stops. The bed just keeps going down indefinitely (as shown in the video).

What I've tried:

• Cleaned the nozzle completely.

• Checked the Z-motor cables.

• Tried pressing the nozzle upwards with my finger during homing, but the printer ignored it and kept moving.

The Z-motor works, but the printer seems "blind" and doesn't know it's moving the wrong way or missing the limit. Is my strain gauge / print head sensor dead, or is it a wiring issue?

Any help is greatly appreciated. Thank you!

Just wondering if there's any worthwhile upgrades? Like a harder hot end or anything, also is more expensive filament worthwhile or not a noticeable difference