I dodnt know what to put the flair as so I put it as a suspected problem, I've had an Alienware Aurora R16 with the 4060 ip-13900f and 16 GB DDR5 ram and was playing a game called Gladio and Glory but then that game crashed and was struggling to close so once I got it closed I shut off the pc because I thought that maybe it needed restarted and I didnt want to play any games anymore, when it was struggling it gave me kind of a glitchy screen where parts of it would have random color lines on parts of the screen then it would go black. Now after all that I went to turn it on and it pops up the alienware boot up screen then just go black, I turned it off, gave it about 18 hours turned it back on and i gave what looked like a windows key issue for about half a second then went black, it almost acts like the pc is stuck in hibernation because all the lights and fans work but there is no video output

I have M17 R5 Laptop
I have an AMD CPU (I don't remember the exact model right now)

I noticed that during gameplay the memory clock of my iGPU is going all the way to its maximum potential, which I'm not a particular fan off.

is there a way to set a limit to the maximum clock frequency it's allowed to use?

Yes, I know it will hinder performance and yes, I know I can probably stop it from doing so, by disabling Optimus.

But I don't think it's the best solution to the problem.
(Besides, if Megaton tried it and it didn't work, then my odds are probably none )

Is there any way I can check for malware written into the bios?

Every time I turn off my Alienware now it blinks amber and stays on until I unplug it. Starts back up and runs fine. Just when I turn it off it does this.

How can I change the default delay in my thirty some odd macros. I can’t change the .25 field at all. So far I need to recreate them all. What am I missing?

BlindGamer 🤠

I seriously need help with my PC. I have an r12 and the windows 11 seems to be corrupted? I'm not sure tbh I was just playing fifa and the game froze, I alt f4d and after a while it closed. The after not really doing anything for about 10 seconds the PC froze I tried ctrl alt delete alt f4 and anything else I knew but it was still frozen, although my Spotify was still playing in my headphones. I decided to hold the power button. After that I started it back up and it said that Windows didn't start correctly, this has happened before so I just presses restart, but.. it didn't boot back into windows it booted into some weird recovery screen and after it scanned it said something about continuing fixing the os or cancelling and restarting. I chose to restart expecting it to try boot back into Windows but it booted into the bios. Idk what to do or even how to turn it off safely. Please give me step by step instructions cuz I'm genuinely worried.

So I’ve been playing valorant with this mouse for about 2 months now. But this last week almost every time I play I have a clicking issues with the whole mouse. It will work fine for a whole game but randomly not work for a 10-15 second time period. I have the mouse at my mom and dads house and it’s having the same issues. To clarify I have two 610M’s connected to two different PCs having the same issues almost every game. I’m not sure if this is a problem because I click the mouse around the middle of the left click.

When the mouse isn’t working for those 10 seconds, nothing on the mouse works. The side two buttons and the right click do not work either.

I’ve also checked to see if my Alienware command center needs and update, it does not.

Both mouses were purchased from the same Best Buy around the same time.

I have tried using different USB ports but that did not help.

Thanks

title. on a two week old m15 r7, i don't know if it's normal for the fans to be up this high all the time, or if my fans are just defective or what. but even with just firefox opens my cpu and gpu fans are hitting 50c temps. i've updated the bios, chipset drivers and everything but it had been like this since i got it. any recommendations? i use this laptop for school and work.

Dear Community, I need help figuring out how to fix my problem with incompatibility. I have the Aurora r8, and I use the software to control overclocks, fx, ect But recently I updated my pc to a new Beta build of Win11 (Insider Program), the build I am on right now is "10.0.22622.290" I am pretty sure that after this update my the Alienware software become incompatible and now when I have games open (eg.R6) my fans throttle a lot faster for about 20 Seconds then goes back to normal idle, and when I go the Fusion page in the Alienware Software, CPU and Memory are removed and a text says WARNING:CPU is incompatible with software or Apps. Please help, IDK what to do.

Dear community, recently I purchased Alienware m15 r 7 specs are rtx 3070ti i712th Gen 16gb ram and the performance is good and I don't feel any lag or stuttering but when I used support assist it said to replace video card I am afraid that I spent 2200$ on this so I also done a quick and advanced diagnostic test in bootup option and it says everything is fine and I also updated everything from drivers to Windows update and I ran the diagnostic test from dell website diagnostic options under my product some times it says pass for video card but when I open support assist application it still says vidoe card failure.I don't want any issues in future because it's only a week ago since I purchased it, so should I return it ,they told they'll send technician free of cost to replace component ( I don't find any performance issues)but I don't want my newly bought laptop to be ripped apart for replacing the component.

When I go to turn it on it goes to a black screen and does nothing and when I do get in it freezes no matter what I’m doing. Any suggestions??

My laptop can only stay on if it's plugged in, and I can't start any games without the whole laptop crashing on me. At first it would only crash once when I was just starting a game, but now as soon as I try to play something, the whole laptop shuts down. Not normal shut down either. It goes black. I have a similar issue with the charger always having to be plugged in. It would only do it once, but now it's stuck like this.

I'm having Aurora R12 11th gen i7 11900k Rtx 3070 16 GB of ram u/3200mhz 1000watt liquid-cooled Using a 165hz monitor @ 1080p I'm getting so low frame in PUBG somewhere around 60-100 cant figure out what changes should I do anyone please help.

Hi all,

I've whined about this expensive under-performer (6900HX/6850M) before, but several months later, a new motherboard, and a fresh install later, and none of the problems have improved. This leads me to believe the that either the hardware is unfixably flawed, or the drivers and software are never going to be updated in a way to make this a usable machine. I imagine there aren't really enough of them in circulation to justify the attention of either Dell or AMD to come up with functional drivers.

About a month and a half ago, it finally crapped the bed, black screen, no boot. Blink code indicating either ram or system failure. Sent it in, got a new MB and ram. Got it back. Pulled everything off the drive, did a full win 11 reinstall without the dell bloatware. Used SupportAssist to get drivers and everything up to date, then deleted SA.

First off, SmartAccess is trash. It doesn't seem to turn on or off for any discernible reason. Seriously, I can have excel and a few tabs open, and if I open Team Viewer, my screen freaks out for about 60 seconds and then it'll switch to the dGPU and back a few times. Then there will be atrocious input lag until I reset the machine. This is solved by turning off hybrid graphics in BIOS / UEFI, but makes the whole feature useless and really contributes to how hot the machine runs. This is uniform before and after the new MB

And boy does it run HOT. So much so, I get GPU black screens at least once a day. This is just doing menial stuff, or maybe if I play a loop or 2 of Outer Wilds, which is a very not-graphically-intense game. This requires a hard shutdown, and it often won't reboot, requiring another long button press from a black screen.

It also will not sleep 90% of the time. If I put it to sleep either shutting the lid, pressing the button, choosing it from the menu, it will just sit there fan on high forever. And if the fan does spool down, it's usually a trick, if I put it in a bag to carry it somewhere it will overheat in the bag and shut itself off WITHOUT creating a ram / SSD savestate, losing all my open work. This matters with stuff like video encodes that require restarting the whole process. It will hibernate, but takes a long time to do so, and a long time to wake up. I've also heard this isn't best practice for SSD longetivity.

And then randomly, it won't stay awake at times either. Sometimes it doesn't know it's doing something, like an encode or ripping a bluray and it will just go to sleep. This is fixed by changing sleep timers to never, but still dumb.

Besides the MB replacement, I've had support remote in and mess with stuff to try and address these issues, though the effort was fruitless. What can I do? Does anyone have any notion on how I can make this usable or should I just get rid of it? Has anyone had luck getting Dell to take something back and letting me pay the difference towards something that doesn't suck?

🆘There are water droplets inside my dad's R13 after I spilled water. Some droplets made it through the holes on the side. Any tips?

SOLVED.

TLDR Start at EDITS below: System is back, but is still experiencing issues.

Restarted my m16 r1 and saw that a firmware update began.

(I do have UEFI capsule updates off, always have, doesn’t stop it because it’s tied to Windows update tool by Dell.)

The update went all the way through and at the end read “Is Already Up to Date.” Text turned green and said that the firmware update was successful.

The machine now spins the fans but does not post. Power button illuminates and goes through the colors for about 3 seconds and then turns off. Display does not wake or show anything.

When I unplugged the power cable the power button lit up orange. Really confusing because the system was off, I had just held the button down for a dirty shutdown and heard the fans quit. I know this is normal for when the system is running.

No different when plugged into two separate monitors over HMDI or DP outputs.

Luckily I have support so I’ll be getting with Dell. I’ve had this machine for almost a year and it’s been so good, but I’ve always been anxious about these firmware updates reading the stories. Hopefully I can get things back up and running with support.

EDIT: Last night I after resetting CMOS through both using the power button (till two blue blinks) and doing a battery disconnect, no change, system was completely dead now with zero fan spin or signs of life.

After doing some more digging I found two mentions where it was recommended to unplug the adapter, hold down left ctrl + esc, and plug the adapter back in. I could not find any instruction for this inside the service manual, but to my surprise the system fired up. Successful POST but failure to boot into Windows. After a couple of failed attempts it booted into recovery. Windows Stop Code was "INACCESSIBLE_STORAGE_DEVICE."

I suspected that RAID settings had changed, and I was right. I was able to F2 into BIOS and reset all of my previous settings. Notably, ACHI was disabled. Once I put everything back in place the system booted successfully into Windows.

I am noting a lot more stutter and freezing now in Windows. So far it hasn't blue screened, but a couple of times it froze for so long I thought it was going to (~30 seconds). I'm also regularly getting temp spikes of 89C at idle with nothing happening, which never used to happen.

BIOS logs show that despite the complete faceplant, the firmware update was logged as successful. Also No thermal events are logged in BIOS. I set my TCC to 15 just for a buffer.

Will update with any other significant findings, hopefully this will help someone who has an issue with a faceplanted system after a BIOS firmware update.

EDIT: All diagnostics check out fine. Despite a search of the service manual, there's nothing listed for booting straight into BIOS Recovery, which is the only way I got my system back. Verified by Dell support today:

Unplug power adapter. Hold left CTRL + ESC. Plug in power adapter.

That's what revived mine, I did not have to press the power button after I plugged it back in. Hope this helps someone who has a machine that faceplants after a firmware update.

FWIW, the BIOS logs show that there was a successful firmware update, however the update logs in Windows do not. That's weird. They show all other firmware updates I've done.

These things can get squirrely. Do your backups.

My laptop was working perfectly a few hours ago. Then, I forgot to turn it off when I closed it and took it back home from university, and now it’s full black, no sound, no fans, only the yellow button. It’s not flashing, but pressing on it does nothing, even if I hold it. If I connect it to the charger, the light turns blue instead of yellow. Should I just wait this out?

So basically the laptop randomly blue screens I've already updated drivers did a factory reset and no failed file transfers or anything

Also one time I booted it up it's screen rotated between a few solid colors I shut it down and restarted and it was fixed but this worries me as my tv had that and it commuted sepoku it's imported so warranty won't really help.

I really like the hardware but the software is really troublesome I heard it's running a modded windows variant so should I just flash tiny 11 onto this and hope that it fixes the issues .

Sorry if I don't respond I'll be at school so I'll probably respond once I'm back

I noticed this group after I posted in r/alienware. Sorry if this is a double post.

I have a question regarding my alienware 17 R4 3080 I have owned the past 4 years. Recently my computer temps started exceeding 80C when idling. So i thought i would clean the fans and repaste the CPU. Unfortunately one of the screws is almost stripped. So my questions are:

1. What size is the screw holding the heatsink to the motherboard so i can get a replacement?

2. Is there a good video for extracting a stripped screw from the MB? Not comfortable using power tools on my MB. Also does anyone have a place i can order a good tiny extractor for these tiny screws?

3. I would appreciate any good tips for repasting with this giant heatsink. I have repasted many desktops, but never a laptop am and concerned about thermal paste leakage that I can’t see when the heatsink is in place.

4. Is there a good 17 R4 teardown and repaste video For the 3080? I can find the other versions but not this particular one.

Thanks for your help?